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Looking for All-in-One Recommendation for Motorhome

eXodus

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Joined
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So I just got the proud new owner from a used 25ft Class A Motorhome.

It has the standard RV-power Lead setup.
1 Chassis Battery
2 House batteries
A completely oversized 5500w generator
Currently the house batteries can charge from the Converter or the Engine.


Requirements:
We are using the RV about once a month for a long weekend and then like 2-3 week long trips.

Since batteries are getting cheaper by the day, I got the dream of running the A/C at least during the night from battery (noise) it used about 4-8kwh through a night.
I know solar will not cover what I use in many occasions.
And since the All-in One systems are coming with substantial chargers (2-3 KW) - I can just program it that it starts the generator before night time for an hour or two to recharge the batteries.

I can probably add 2x 330-400w panels to roof. Maybe 3 when I eliminate one of the vents and the antenna.

I mean you get the 5kwh batteries from Signature Solar or Big Battery for like $1500-2000
Or DIY one, Probably need somewhere between 10 and 20kwh of storage.

The question now - the 12V system works, well -
Should just add the All in One - before all the RV stuff? Leave everything in RV side alone and basically plug the RV into the All-in one system and the other side in the Generator/ Shore power?

Next question the RV has a 30A plug - A 3000w All in one should be sufficient? But I why the heck did they build in a 5500w generator?
24V/ 48V MPP? Growatt? Any other products?

Thanks!
 
i left the rv native on coach battery (beefed up the batterys) and put in a seperate coach2 battery bank. its got inverters and runs the tvs, electronics, half the lights both have seperate charge controllers and panels. nothing critical to offgrid survival, creature comforts battery bank. it was easier to just leave the native stuff in place on the low draw things and run my new wiring seperately. I have the 5500 onan and a 1700 champion, the onan get used when air conditioners run, and is hooked into the native bank. if not the smaller champion is hooked to coach2 and it can run the chargers is its main function.

i did not use an all in one (but i had alot of the parts from other projects) if starting from scratch i would get a quality all in one

if you have auto leveling jacks those probably run on 12 v... so another reason to run native 12 coach battery and wire in seperate 48v battery bank coach2 + all in one and thats gonna give you the best bang for your buck to run your night ac... i recommend a second generator thats easy on fuel consumption. if you stay in a warm climate you might look at propane powering the generator if your class a has a big tank but either way 48 volt for sure if your goal is to run ac
 
Thanks for the reply, yes I'm starting from scratch on this one.

I don't have the RV long enough to know the fuel consumption of the 5500w Onan, the manual states 0.6 gallon per hour.
No idea if this with or without load - or an average.

Another reasons to use the runtime most efficient, crank the generator up - and let it run at almost full capacity until the batteries are full and then shut down. With only the A/C running - it's like idling most of the time. Saves on hours / maintenance / time.
Depending on the climate - the Generator should be able to provide all energy I need for one day within 3-4 hours - without solar.

I'm currently evaluating my electrical needs, how much the A/C, converter and whatever other low level drawing devices (Smoke and Propane detectors) are taking.

The RV will be plugged in most of the time, when I'm at home - so I will be starting each trip with full batteries.
The weekend trips are without hookups and primary need the A/C for night when I'm in Florida Camping.
 
So I just got the proud new owner from a used 25ft Class A Motorhome.

It has the standard RV-power Lead setup.
1 Chassis Battery
2 House batteries
A completely oversized 5500w generator
Currently the house batteries can charge from the Converter or the Engine.


Requirements:
We are using the RV about once a month for a long weekend and then like 2-3 week long trips.

Since batteries are getting cheaper by the day, I got the dream of running the A/C at least during the night from battery (noise) it used about 4-8kwh through a night.
I know solar will not cover what I use in many occasions.
And since the All-in One systems are coming with substantial chargers (2-3 KW) - I can just program it that it starts the generator before night time for an hour or two to recharge the batteries.

I can probably add 2x 330-400w panels to roof. Maybe 3 when I eliminate one of the vents and the antenna.

I mean you get the 5kwh batteries from Signature Solar or Big Battery for like $1500-2000
Or DIY one, Probably need somewhere between 10 and 20kwh of storage.

The question now - the 12V system works, well -
Should just add the All in One - before all the RV stuff? Leave everything in RV side alone and basically plug the RV into the All-in one system and the other side in the Generator/ Shore power?

Next question the RV has a 30A plug - A 3000w All in one should be sufficient? But I why the heck did they build in a 5500w generator?
24V/ 48V MPP? Growatt? Any other products?

Thanks!
There's a guy on this site selling new 700ah Winston cells. If I had your rig, I'd buy a bunch of those up.
 
fuel consumption of the 5500w Onan, the manual states 0.6 gallon per hour.
Congrats on the MH.

Do you have dual ACs? That will push you into a 5500 watt generator.

The manual for my Onan 5500w says No Load = 0.3, Half Load = 0.6, and Full = 0.9 GPH

I know you didn't ask, but seriously consider using a Gen-Turi when running the generator to prevent dirt-naps for you and your neighbors.
 
Midea window AC unit has been exceptionally thrifty on electricity usage for me, the device has an inverter to ramp up power instead of dump all at once.
 
If I was starting over right now I would take a hard look at the Growatt all-in-one units (See you tube by Will and David Poz). Very very convenient all in ones and they are light and comparatively inexpensive. These are 24 volt and 48 volt units. For your 12 volt operations run a victron dc-dc converter,
 
The manual for my Onan 5500w says No Load = 0.3, Half Load = 0.6, and Full = 0.9 GPH

I know you didn't ask, but seriously consider using a Gen-Turi when running the generator to prevent dirt-naps for you and your neighbors.

Ditto to both of the above. I use my Gen-Turi even when nobody is around.

As I recall, my Onan 5500 is rated for 45 amps of output. If the all-in-one can draw more than that, you'll be popping breakers. I think my trailer has two breakers coming out of the generator. If you could get one converter on one breaker and a second converter on the other breaker, that may help keep you from popping breakers while running high amp converters.
 
Ditto to both of the above. I use my Gen-Turi even when nobody is around.

As I recall, my Onan 5500 is rated for 45 amps of output. If the all-in-one can draw more than that, you'll be popping breakers. I think my trailer has two breakers coming out of the generator. If you could get one converter on one breaker and a second converter on the other breaker, that may help keep you from popping breakers while running high amp converters.
I am not following. You mean inverters?
 
I am not following. You mean inverters?

No. Converter. AKA charger. If the All-in-one can pull more amps out of the generator - to charge the battery - than the generator is rated for, then circuit breakers are going to trip. I've done that in my trailer when I put too much load on one leg. I switched the loads around and breakers didn't trip. I don't mean the breakers in the main distribution panel. These are the breakers in the generator compartment.
 
Congrats on the MH.

Do you have dual ACs? That will push you into a 5500 watt generator.

The manual for my Onan 5500w says No Load = 0.3, Half Load = 0.6, and Full = 0.9 GPH

I know you didn't ask, but seriously consider using a Gen-Turi when running the generator to prevent dirt-naps for you and your neighbors.
Thanks :)
Nope it's 25ft - has one ducted A/C

That's why I wonder why the Generator is that big. The generator has one 30A and 20A breaker - The 30A is going to the main panel on the inside.
No idea what the 20A does :p

I will look up that Gen-Turi.
 
Midea window AC unit has been exceptionally thrifty on electricity usage for me, the device has an inverter to ramp up power instead of dump all at once.
I got a Midean U Inverter Window A/C in my Van. Running it off a 1200W inverter with a 450ah worth of Lead.

Just started searching for Inverter Type Roof A/C, In Europe and Asia there are already selling.
 
There's a guy on this site selling new 700ah Winston cells. If I had your rig, I'd buy a bunch of those up.
I found his post. Those are interesting cells. A bit more expensive for DIY but apparently super rugged.

To get to 24V I would need 8 cells. At 8x 700ah x 3.3V that's around 13-14kwh.
In the ballpark what I'm looking for.

But he is asking $650 a cell - with no case and BMS. That's $5200 for only cells.

I can buy 10kwh from signature solar for $3000 completely done - with everything, case breaker etc. https://www.signaturesolar.us/products/i89128b899/2203789000007141580

If I would go to 20kwh - that's would be $6000. Thanks for the advice but the numbers don't make sense for the Winston Cells.
 
So I just got the proud new owner from a used 25ft Class A Motorhome.

It has the standard RV-power Lead setup.
1 Chassis Battery
2 House batteries
A completely oversized 5500w generator
Currently the house batteries can charge from the Converter or the Engine.


Requirements:
We are using the RV about once a month for a long weekend and then like 2-3 week long trips.

Since batteries are getting cheaper by the day, I got the dream of running the A/C at least during the night from battery (noise) it used about 4-8kwh through a night.
I know solar will not cover what I use in many occasions.
And since the All-in One systems are coming with substantial chargers (2-3 KW) - I can just program it that it starts the generator before night time for an hour or two to recharge the batteries.

I can probably add 2x 330-400w panels to roof. Maybe 3 when I eliminate one of the vents and the antenna.

I mean you get the 5kwh batteries from Signature Solar or Big Battery for like $1500-2000
Or DIY one, Probably need somewhere between 10 and 20kwh of storage.

The question now - the 12V system works, well -
Should just add the All in One - before all the RV stuff? Leave everything in RV side alone and basically plug the RV into the All-in one system and the other side in the Generator/ Shore power?

Next question the RV has a 30A plug - A 3000w All in one should be sufficient? But I why the heck did they build in a 5500w generator?
24V/ 48V MPP? Growatt? Any other products?

Thanks!
If you want to run ac off batteries, the first thing you should do is dump the roof air. Go with a mini split. Conservation is key to having an efficient solar powered system.
 
If you want to run ac off batteries, the first thing you should do is dump the roof air. Go with a mini split. Conservation is key to having an efficient solar powered system.
I'm looking into this, one of the reasons I bought a small white Class A, with winter insulation package - was that I hope it will be more energy efficient.

I got a Inverter Mini Split in my Workshop and I'm am using a Inverter Window Unit in my Class B Camper Van. So my professional guess that - a lot of energy savings are actually coming from the Inverter Technology. And not necessary from the Split part.

So I found DC-powered RV-Air-conditioner for the Roof:


Or DC powered Split Unit:
 
Do you have dual ACs? That will push you into a 5500 watt generator.

The manual for my Onan 5500w says No Load = 0.3, Half Load = 0.6, and Full = 0.9 GPH

I know you didn't ask, but seriously consider using a Gen-Turi when running the generator to prevent dirt-naps for you and your neighbors.
My goal is to not run the generator during nights. Many boondocking places I go have quiet hours anyhow.

When I get 800-1200w of solar and only need like 3kwh during the night, I could probably get away not using generator at all. Or every 2-3 day.
 
I just realized that when I only got two panels - with a little bit of shading I'm going to run trouble to get to 48V
The 300-400w panels usually have around 37-48v

So I'm looking at 24V system

MPP PIP 2724LV-MR

Or

the Growatt 24V SPF 3000TL LVM

Recommendation which is more suitable for my needs? Standby consumption?
 
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The rest of us boondockers thank you for that.
haha :) I hate noise, I'm going camping to be away from everything and have piece and quiet. Don't want to ruin that with a generator more then necessary.

Preferable I would power everything with solar - but I know with the limited roof real-estate I'm working with - I need to incorporate the generator into the design, to have a backup power source.
 
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