diy solar

diy solar

Looking for All-in-One Recommendation for Motorhome

RV Power System.jpg

So this is my very simple initial draft for critique. (Fuses and other safety stuff is omitted for clarity)

I would be using a

One Growatt 3000w All in One: spf-3000tl https://watts247.com/product/spf-3000tl-lvm-24p/
2x 24V 5kWH G4LL batteries: https://www.signaturesolar.us/products/e42bbd22d7/2203789000006324350

Currently the power cord which powers the RV is wired directly into the power center - I would change that over - so that it goes directly into the Growatt input.

The idea about that is, usually the cord is plugged either into an outlet - where it gets continues power - or it's plugged into the generator.

Then the Output of the Inverter goes back into the Powercenter - which provides power to all of the RV. The Powercenter as a 55A Converter to recharge the 12V batteries. I know it's not the most efficient way of doing this. But I can still add a 24 - 12V DC-DC charger later.

Let me know your thoughts.
 

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Is there an Automatic Transfer Switch between the shore power and the generator?

Nope it's very manual, there is a 30A outlet in the bay where my external cable stores - powered by the generator.

So when I plug into shore power - the generator is only powering a un-unoccupied outlet.
No way of messing it up. It's shore or generator.
 
View attachment 45333

So this is my very simple initial draft for critique. (Fuses and other safety stuff is omitted for clarity)

I would be using a

One Growatt 3000w All in One: spf-3000tl https://watts247.com/product/spf-3000tl-lvm-24p/
2x 24V 5kWH G4LL batteries: https://www.signaturesolar.us/products/e42bbd22d7/2203789000006324350

Currently the power cord which powers the RV is wired directly into the power center - I would change that over - so that it goes directly into the Growatt input.

The idea about that is, usually the cord is plugged either into an outlet - where it gets continues power - or it's plugged into the generator.

Then the Output of the Inverter goes back into the Powercenter - which provides power to all of the RV. The Powercenter as a 55A Converter to recharge the 12V batteries. I know it's not the most efficient way of doing this. But I can still add a 24 - 12V DC-DC charger later.

Let me know your thoughts.
The Growatt can charge your batteries, both with solar and with shore power or generator. As for the 12v battery, unless you have a large load like leveling jacks, I'd just run a buck converter.

You could run the leveling jacks off the vehicle battery also. I'm still on the fence how I will run my truck camper jacks, need some testing first.
 
The Growatt can charge your batteries, both with solar and with shore power or generator. As for the 12v battery, unless you have a large load like leveling jacks, I'd just run a buck converter.

What's a Buck converter? Just a DC-DC converter?
I got a device in my golf cart with does 36v - 12V

Main 12V loads:
- Lights
- controls of the propane Fridge, Waterheater, furnace
- Ceiling Fans
- Entertainment (Laptop charger, TV)
- Waterpump

It's not nothing, but also not trivial. The 12V batteries which came with the coach are only 2 years old and I hate to throw out good stuff.
Further - both of those Lead Anchor weights are mounted forward of the front axel under the hood. So I got the suspicion they are there for balancing purpose. So if I get rid of them, I need to put something heavy in their spot.
 
Those are fairly minor 12v loads. A buck converter (aka step down converter) would do the job. I would wire it so that you can turn off the converter if 12v loads are not needed. Otherwise, the existing converter will probably work. I don't think of an RV converter as a power source, more of a charging source.
 
What's a Buck converter? Just a DC-DC converter?
I got a device in my golf cart with does 36v - 12V

Drops 24v to 12.5v regulated. This is the one I have. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QXV8V2L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You should check your loads as these do have a draw at idle, the larger the buck converter, the larger the overhead at idle.

Main 12V loads:
- Lights
- controls of the propane Fridge, Waterheater, furnace
- Ceiling Fans
- Entertainment (Laptop charger, TV)
- Waterpump

All handled thru buck converter. Nothing big there.
It's not nothing, but also not trivial. The 12V batteries which came with the coach are only 2 years old and I hate to throw out good stuff.
Further - both of those Lead Anchor weights are mounted forward of the front axel under the hood. So I got the suspicion they are there for balancing purpose. So if I get rid of them, I need to put something heavy in their spot.
Add some more LFP batteries? Water? :)
 
Add some more LFP batteries? Water? :)

Thanks will look into the Buck converter.

There are like 200lbs in lead. - but it's very exposed to the elements. Heat, Cold etc. So probably not a good spot to put a LFP battery. I would rather have that expensive battery in Conditioned Insulated space.

It's not a problem that I'm going to tackle anytime soon. But good ideas for Phase 2 after I got my lessons learned with the initial build
 
Thanks for the reply, yes I'm starting from scratch on this one.

I don't have the RV long enough to know the fuel consumption of the 5500w Onan, the manual states 0.6 gallon per hour.
No idea if this with or without load - or an average.

Another reasons to use the runtime most efficient, crank the generator up - and let it run at almost full capacity until the batteries are full and then shut down. With only the A/C running - it's like idling most of the time. Saves on hours / maintenance / time.
Depending on the climate - the Generator should be able to provide all energy I need for one day within 3-4 hours - without solar.

I'm currently evaluating my electrical needs, how much the A/C, converter and whatever other low level drawing devices (Smoke and Propane detectors) are taking.

The RV will be plugged in most of the time, when I'm at home - so I will be starting each trip with full batteries.
The weekend trips are without hookups and primary need the A/C for night when I'm in Florida Camping.
i believe its full 5500w load at .6 gal/hr i burn about 1 gal every 2hrs at 5000w
 
The spec sheet for my Onan 5500 has this:

Average fuel consumption
Gasoline 60 Hz
No load: 0.3 Gal/h (1.1 L/h)
Half load: 0.6 Gal/h (2.3 L/h)
Full load: 0.9 Gal/h (3.6 L/h)
 
Thanks :)
Nope it's 25ft - has one ducted A/C

That's why I wonder why the Generator is that big. The generator has one 30A and 20A breaker - The 30A is going to the main panel on the inside.
No idea what the 20A does :p

I will look up that Gen-Turi.
the 20a & 30a both go to the main panel. in a class a RV the main panel has 2- 120v hot bus bars, inline alternating, every other breaker bay is on the 20a or 30a 120v bus bar, the inverter output feed will be wired to only one of those bus bars to configure a correct load as well as the 12v converter wired to the other hot bar so it will not energize when running the120v inverter. again instead of having 240v you have 2 120v inputs into your split bus main breaker panel
 
the 20a & 30a both go to the main panel. in a class a RV the main panel has 2- 120v hot bus bars, inline alternating, every other breaker bay is on the 20a or 30a 120v bus bar, the inverter output feed will be wired to only one of those bus bars to configure a correct load as well as the 12v converter wired to the other hot bar so it will not energize when running the120v inverter. again instead of having 240v you have 2 120v inputs into your split bus main breaker panel
thanks!

have to find a wiring diagram. Because everything seems to work when I only plugin the 30A shore power. Have to check all the outlets, if some are only powered when the generator is on.

I'm still suspecting that this small RV came only with a 4000w generator and someone swapped in the bigger one later.
Since the RV is small it only came with a 40 gallon gas tank. So I have to be careful when running it out an about.

My old 30ft class A had 80 gallon tank. But the newer also gets around 10mpg while the old one got like 7 :p
 
it is typical when not plugged in to 30a shore power that only one a/c unit will operate as of the load schedule. open elect main box remove two bays-take 2 breakers out that are next to each other, run generator and check voltage on the 2 hot dissimilar bus bars. if one is only working. plug into shore power. if both have voltage then unplug shore. run gen check voltage at gen. output. if one line is still not hot replace voltage regulator on gen, these blow when gen is overloaded to save your windings
 
My RV trailer has the 5500 watt Onan I mentioned earlier. I haven't traced the wires so I could be wrong on this. As near as I can tell, my generator feeds only a single 30 amp circuit to the main distribution panel. The reason I think that's the case is that I have only a single bank of breakers in that box, plus I have an Automatic Transfer Switch (shore/gen) that has a single line coming out of it to the main distribution panel.

I think the other leg out of the generator feeds the outside outlets.

Since you may have a Frankenstein system, it's hard to say how it works.
 
it is typical when not plugged in to 30a shore power that only one a/c unit will operate as of the load schedule. open elect main box remove two bays-take 2 breakers out that are next to each other, run generator and check voltage on the 2 hot dissimilar bus bars. if one is only working. plug into shore power. if both have voltage then unplug shore. run gen check voltage at gen. output. if one line is still not hot replace voltage regulator on gen, these blow when gen is overloaded to save your windings
I only got one single A/C - since the My R-Vision 241 - is only 25ft long -that's not a problem.
PXL_20210409_160849557.jpg

My Panel has only a few breakers going to open it up later this week:

PXL_20210416_233849999.jpg

Are you suggesting I should split the load on the generator?

In my Plan - the Growatt will power my Distribution Panel and feed from the Generator/Grid -
It has a 60A 24V charger - so 24x 60A = 1440W @ 120V - that it's a bit low to get the batteries charged fast enough.....

So I might have to add another charger - or build a 48V system - since the Growatt 48V also got 60A....

I want to keep the generator runtime to a minimum - so when it's running I want to charge the batteries as fast as possible. To safe on fuel and noise.
 
I was referring to a RV 50a service, yes rv 30 amp is single phase. I would start with a tone generator or circuit tracer cheap on amazon to map your electrical sys. I doubt the generator has the 20a circuit open as this would damage your voltage regulator or windings or both. You never know what someone else did. there should always be a load on both circuit's on a generator when started

 
I got full sets of schematics from Jayco. This was very beneficial when tying in 2 additional deep cycle batts in parallel with the existing house battery. Perhaps you can get a set(s) that will help show all your inter-connectivity and wire color etc.
 
I got full sets of schematics from Jayco. This was very beneficial when tying in 2 additional deep cycle batts in parallel with the existing house battery. Perhaps you can get a set(s) that will help show all your inter-connectivity and wire color etc.
Thanks for the advice, R-Vision sadly folded in last recession, so this RV is orphaned. It's standard Chevy/ Workhorse p32 chassis - with all the standard RV appliances of that era. Most wiring diagrams should fit the bill.

I once was a electrician :p now a Code Monkey, so I should be able to find where the wires of the generators go to.

Just haven't had the time to open up all the covers and trace stuff. Summer (and rainy season here in Florida) is approaching fast and I have to get the roof sealing done before that. As soon that is of my mind can toy with the comfort enhancements.
 
Do you have pictures of this? I've been thinking about doing the same on my TC for a while now.
Zoom in and you can see how I made a slide mechanism for locking and unlocking the panels for travel, all automatic
 

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RV Power System V2.jpg
So I decided to go with a 24V System.

There are so many 24V Truck appliances (A/C) and very little 48V system support. Further my highest future load will be an A/C unit with around 1500W, which is fairly easy at 24V. Further I decided to keep the 12V RV system, with it's batteries and converter and everything. The converter draws only a few amps a day to keep lead batteries topped of including the Chassis battery.

I know keeping the 12V system including batteries is redundant - but I'm a prepper and so, the more layers of redundancy I can fit in with little cost - I will do. That also leads me to choose 2x 24V batteries in stead of one large 24V.

I can fit 4 large 40x 80 inch solar panels on my roof - Just have to get flat vents. And find them local, or buy a palette.
 
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