Looking for opinions on Canadian Solar Brand panels.
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gnubie
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Some info and feedback from Australia - https://www.solarquotes.com.au/panels/canadian-solar-inc-review.html
Steve_S
Offgrid Cabineer, N.E. Ontario, Canada
All of my panels are Canadian Solar and I cannot complain one bit, they perform as spec'd and handle the harsh variable weather quite well from -35C in winter to 40C in summer. Canadian Solar is Tier-1 product so there really is little to worry about.
I kind of thought they were a good brand, I just wanted to make sure.
the panels are SC6K-295MS
https://es-media-prod.s3.amazonaws....olar-Datasheet-SuperPower-CS6K-MS-v5.52na.pdf
I have a EPEVER 60A charge controller. I'm guessing if i pair 2 panels in series I'll have enough power for a 48V system.
I'll of course have parallel sets too.
Can paralleled panels be put together as long as they are fused properly ? or does each string have to be fused before paralleled ?
the panels are SC6K-295MS
https://es-media-prod.s3.amazonaws....olar-Datasheet-SuperPower-CS6K-MS-v5.52na.pdf
I have a EPEVER 60A charge controller. I'm guessing if i pair 2 panels in series I'll have enough power for a 48V system.
I'll of course have parallel sets too.
Can paralleled panels be put together as long as they are fused properly ? or does each string have to be fused before paralleled ?
I believe with a 48 volt system that charge controller can handle 3000 watts if PV power.
Maximum PV open circuit voltage 138 VDC so you can put 3 panels in series (3x39.5)<138
MPP operating range max is 108VDC; so 3x 32.3 =96.9VDC, so you're OK there
You can use 9 of those panels 3 series, then 3 parallel (3S3P) 2655 watts < 3000 watts
Just put a fuse/breaker/disconnect before your Epever tracer6415, not each string
Maximum PV open circuit voltage 138 VDC so you can put 3 panels in series (3x39.5)<138
MPP operating range max is 108VDC; so 3x 32.3 =96.9VDC, so you're OK there
You can use 9 of those panels 3 series, then 3 parallel (3S3P) 2655 watts < 3000 watts
Just put a fuse/breaker/disconnect before your Epever tracer6415, not each string
SolarQueen
Making renewable do-able at www.alteStore.com
Canadian Solar is a very good brand. According to the datasheet, those are 60 cell panels. You need 3 of them in series for a 48V battery bank, especially if you are in the heat, as voltage drops in the heat. If they were 72 cell panels, you could get away with 2 in series.
By code, you do need to put a breaker on each string if you are wiring in parallel (the Isc is 9.75A x 2 panels = 19.5A, which is higher than its 15A max series fuse rating). A simple combiner box like the Midnite Solar PV3 makes it easy.
By code, you do need to put a breaker on each string if you are wiring in parallel (the Isc is 9.75A x 2 panels = 19.5A, which is higher than its 15A max series fuse rating). A simple combiner box like the Midnite Solar PV3 makes it easy.
I have string Fuses in a combiner box and then a fused disconnect in the house.
Thanks.. So is a 10A fuse for each string too much ? ( 3 panels per string ) I can't find any fuses that are 9.5A, they seem to be just whole amp ratings that i find.
SolarQueen
Making renewable do-able at www.alteStore.com
You want to use 15A fuses.
ok,, now i'm confused.. why higher
GXMnow
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The fuse needs to be at least 20% higher than the panel short circuit current so it does not blow during normal operation. The fuse should only blow if something bad happens. The panels can take 15 amps without damage, that is what the panel maximum string fuse rating is for. Fusing at 15 amps per series string is safe and won't pop fuses for no reason. A 10 amp fuse running at the 9.5 amp rated panel current, is going to eventually fail.
Ampster
Renewable Energy Hobbyist
I bought some 6 years ago and they are going strong.
Ahh. I gotchya now.. Thanks..
GXMnow
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In most cases, use a fast blow fuse. The normal load should always be less than 80% of the fuse rating and them the fuse will blow quickly if something does go wrong. "Slow Blow" fuse are exactly what you would think. They will not fail right away and can take a short term overload. But if the current stays over the rating for a period of time, it will still fail to protect the wiring from getting too hot. They are normally used for things like motors that can pull over 4 times the current when they start. If you sized a fast blow fuse big enough to not fail on start up, you would then have to run much larger wire to be legal, and then windings of the motor would not be protected during an overload condition and the motor could burn out without blowing the fuse. A solar panel should never be subjected to sudden overloads like that. The only place we see surges is when connecting a battery to an inverter, and it has to charge up the capacitors. Instead of using a slow blow fuse, it is better to use a resistor to slow charge the caps before connecting the battery straight to the inverter. I have seen the capacitor charge surge pop some very large fuses, and a slow blow is not going to fix that. But if your inverter is going to power a compressor, use a slow blow for that, assuming the inverter can accept the surge power. My Schneider inverter is rated at 6,800 watts, but will put out 12,000 watts for up to 30 seconds to start a heavy load.
ok,, i was thinking fast blo fuses.. I don't suppose a solar flare would be considered a surge...lol
and as for the caps charging up. I know this.. usually I use a light bulb, once it goes dim, then the caps are charged up..
Thanks for all the info Guys,,,,,and Gal..
and as for the caps charging up. I know this.. usually I use a light bulb, once it goes dim, then the caps are charged up..
Thanks for all the info Guys,,,,,and Gal..
Well, I did it..
I went this weekend and got the panels. and i was able able to haul all 19 of them in my van.
On the way home the bottom fell out of the sky, torrential down pour 10 min into the ride home, and all the way til i got almost home.
It was the worst storm i ever drove in, Was like literally driving thru a waterfall, parts of the interstate flooded. 10" deep.
around 7:30ish it was pitch dark..Normally sunny still, took only 2 hrs to drive up that way, but almost 4.5 to get back, traffic was only 20mph most of the time.. i could barely see 50ft in front of me. bout 5 miles before i was home, the rain suddenly quit.. at my house it looked like it barely rained..
i just parked the van when i got home and went to be, i was so worn out.
The panels look quite nice, few scratches here and there. MC connectors still zip tied.
I saved over 100 per panel and any freight i would have had to pay otherwise.. so i call it a score !
I went this weekend and got the panels. and i was able able to haul all 19 of them in my van.
On the way home the bottom fell out of the sky, torrential down pour 10 min into the ride home, and all the way til i got almost home.
It was the worst storm i ever drove in, Was like literally driving thru a waterfall, parts of the interstate flooded. 10" deep.
around 7:30ish it was pitch dark..Normally sunny still, took only 2 hrs to drive up that way, but almost 4.5 to get back, traffic was only 20mph most of the time.. i could barely see 50ft in front of me. bout 5 miles before i was home, the rain suddenly quit.. at my house it looked like it barely rained..
i just parked the van when i got home and went to be, i was so worn out.
The panels look quite nice, few scratches here and there. MC connectors still zip tied.
I saved over 100 per panel and any freight i would have had to pay otherwise.. so i call it a score !
GXMnow
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Sounds like you got a great deal. I have had to do drives like that when I lived north of Chicago. It rarely rains at all here in So Cal, but when it does, it is a bit fun to watch the BWM's go hydroplaning off the road because they think water does not effect them.
19 295 watt panels will make a nice array. What is your latitude there? What are you going to use for the inverter(s)? Are you going Grid Tie, Off Grid, or Hybrid?
19 295 watt panels will make a nice array. What is your latitude there? What are you going to use for the inverter(s)? Are you going Grid Tie, Off Grid, or Hybrid?
If it rained any harder i think i may have had to use a snorkel...lol
Not sure if i'll be able to use all the panels yet or not..depends on roof real estate.
I used to be grid tied, but that didn't work with my power company.
( municipalities don't care for solar, or they won't give you any more than what they buy it at. )
So i was grid tied for 5 yrs,,til the incentive contract ran out with NCGreenpower sponcered by NC state university in Raleigh NC.
they at least offered 15c per Kw. my power company only 2c per Kw. that gave me 17c per Kw. Nice huh...
anyway after the contract ran out that was it,, no renewal. it helped a lot..
So now i decided to revamp things.. I was going to use my existing panels ( 24 x 100W panels ) I plan to reconfig things for a 48v off grid.
I won't be able to run everything but i'll be running some isolated circuits of the house. I'm hoping to run the lights, fridge, microwave, attic blower, tv and a few other things . I have a large BMW battery bank, I can have up to 6 strings of 14S Lithium, this should give me about 667Ah
I have a new 60A EPEver MPPT charge controller. and I have a AIMS 2Kw ( 6Kw surge for 20 sec ) Inverter / charger. So, if the batteries get too low the charger would kick in. and there's also a built in transfer switch. so I'll never be in the dark.
If i can't mount enough panels on the roof, I may mount some on the ground.
I think this will be ok for now, I can always upgrade.
GXMnow
Solar Wizard
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How old are the 100 watt panels? Have you checked to see how much they still put out? If they are still doing 80% then they are worth using, but if you are down to 50%, just put up the new ones. the 295's are mid pack efficiency, so they should make more power for the same roof space of the old 100's.
A 60 amp charger at 48 volts comes out to only 2880 watts to feed your batteries. The 19 x 295 watt panels works out to 5605 watts, so you would need at least 2 to use them all. The 60 amp EPEVER that I found is rated to 150 volts on the input. If your 295 watt panels are 60 cell, you should be able to run 3 in series as the VOC should be abour 40 volts x 3 = 120, some safety to the 150 limit. At 295 watt, I would guess they are 60's, if they are 72 cell units, it gets pretty tight to run 3 in series 46 volts x 3 = 138, if it get's cold in the morning, it could go higher.
3 parallel groups of 3 in series is 9 panels, or 2655 watts, that would be safe. So two charge controllers and 18 panels 5,310 watts is a good fit. That's a bit more power than my 16 300 watt panels 4,800 watts. You should get at least 5 sun hours there, so 26 KwH in a sunny day if the panels are at a good angle. In So Cal mine tops 30 KwH in spring/fall, summer is down to 26 KwH with a lot of heat and less than ideal angles. That should keep your 2,000 watt inverter pretty happy. You can run at more than half load continuously.
A 60 amp charger at 48 volts comes out to only 2880 watts to feed your batteries. The 19 x 295 watt panels works out to 5605 watts, so you would need at least 2 to use them all. The 60 amp EPEVER that I found is rated to 150 volts on the input. If your 295 watt panels are 60 cell, you should be able to run 3 in series as the VOC should be abour 40 volts x 3 = 120, some safety to the 150 limit. At 295 watt, I would guess they are 60's, if they are 72 cell units, it gets pretty tight to run 3 in series 46 volts x 3 = 138, if it get's cold in the morning, it could go higher.
3 parallel groups of 3 in series is 9 panels, or 2655 watts, that would be safe. So two charge controllers and 18 panels 5,310 watts is a good fit. That's a bit more power than my 16 300 watt panels 4,800 watts. You should get at least 5 sun hours there, so 26 KwH in a sunny day if the panels are at a good angle. In So Cal mine tops 30 KwH in spring/fall, summer is down to 26 KwH with a lot of heat and less than ideal angles. That should keep your 2,000 watt inverter pretty happy. You can run at more than half load continuously.
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