You have a bit of confidence in your work!!
I wasn't going to put it that way, But, yeah.
Lost on Battery/BMS wiring & config
- Thread starter myersfamilyhome
- Start date
I wasn't going to put it that way, But, yeah.
I will definitely have access to the cells. I just won't be pulling the batteries out as a whole 150lb unit. I totally agree that checking connections and how secure things are staying is critical. Especially in the first year of use.
chrisski
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I'm waiting on my RV to get back, hopefully 2 weeks, so I can finish my build. Then I'm going to get the 24 volt pack together. I've got serrated lock washers and red Loctite I'm using, but I don't trust my work enough to make the batteries not accessible.
For @HRTKD what torque wrench did you use for the nuts? I hear things like bicycle screwdriver torque wrenches, but I don't see a recommendation for a torque wrench on Will's website.
For @HRTKD what torque wrench did you use for the nuts? I hear things like bicycle screwdriver torque wrenches, but I don't see a recommendation for a torque wrench on Will's website.
I was searching for the exact same thing this morning! I also messaged Jenny Wu, who I ordered my cells from, to ask about recommended torque specs for the studs they welded to my 230ah battery terminals. Tekton has a 1/4" torque ratchet, 10-150 in-lbs that looked like a good fit, but curious what HRTKD used also.
chrisski
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I may have a torque wrench like (Tecton 20-200 in LNS), but I have had a but of a problem with my aluminum engine car with nuts bolts stripping out when I use larger torque wrenches. This happens with three wrenches I have. Bit frustrating. So far the smaller Tecton has not given me issues.
I use a 1/4" digital torque wrench that goes down to about 12 in-lb. As I recall, I used 20 in-lb, but my recollection is a bit fuzzy. 4 nm is the max that most people recommend and I stayed well under that. So far, my terminal screws (not posts with nuts) have stayed good and tight with no lock washers or thread locker.
This was the lightest, most sensitive one I found. I was also looking for something really able to regulate small loads, like the 1.2 Nm recommended by Victron for the AC connections. It's really hard to find a torque wrench with that level of sensitivity.
Torqueing off a transmission pan bolt was the last straw for me. I went out and bought the right tool for the job after that. I have been amazed at how often I've used it since then. I think I have a few people that are friends only so they can borrow it.
chrisski
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Link did not work for me but looked up what I think you posted. Can you confirm this is the link:
Snap-on Store
Used to be I worked in a shop we sent our torque wrenches off to be calibrated. I don't have that type of equipment in my garage. Someone suggested hanging weights tied to it while in a vice. That sounds good, but don't have a set of weights lying around nor a vice.
Link did not work for me but looked up what I think you posted. Can you confirm this is the link:
View attachment 74107Snap-on Store
shop.snapon.com
Used to be I worked in a shop we sent our torque wrenches off to be calibrated. I don't have that type of equipment in my garage. Someone suggested hanging weights tied to it while in a vice. That sounds good, but don't have a set of weights lying around nor a vice.
Yes, that's the one. My brother is a Snap-On dealer. If I need my torque wrenches calibrated then I'll have him send them back. As infrequently as I use them, I doubt I would need to calibrate them for quite a few years. He has a simple test device on his tool truck that can be used as a quick validation. I should try my 30 year old Craftsman 1/2" torque wrench on that just to see how close it is.
That's a beautiful wrench. Too beautiful for my budget unfortunately. I think I'll likely have to go with the $47 Tekton and hope for the best. At least it appears to be relatively sensitive with a range of 10 - 150 in-lbs. It beats just putting a finger in the wind as I'm tightening things, but in no way as accurate as a digital unit.
That is what I have been using. For a long time I was not using a torque wrench, but got some with welded studs and bought one. That one is relatively easy to use.
I just received my OverKill 24v boards and they have both terminals bonded together on the board themselves. I doubt it is cause I ordered the M6 stud option as the board has the trace connecting the two leads, not on the stud mounts. Maybe that is a new version, they didn't want the option for only one contact to be used?
Roswell Bob
Solar Enthusiast
I bought this wrench. It is simple and the only calibration required is to make sure dial is at zero with no torque applied. I don't trust a digital wrench or any kind that needs calibration. Price is good enough for me.
NorthTown2022
New Member
I am looking at the wrench, did you pick one up?
I have one. I like this one better:
chrisski
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I have not had luck with beam torque wrenches. The resting position always tends to drift from 0, and unsure if it its accurate.
I have both, just stating my personal preference.
Going back and checking things I did by feel, I was pretty darn close.
I did. I've used it to build my battery bank and it's worked really well. I've no idea how accurate it is, but I set it to 7Nm of torque for the battery terminals, as recommended by Docan Power for my EVE cells with laser welded studs, and the nuts are tight and no damaged studs. I guess that's mission accomplished.
myersfamilyhome
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Hope everyone here is doing well and enjoying the holidays ?. I am still alive and hopefully this thread is too lol. I had to put all on hold until just recently and trying to wrap up the first bank build. Attached are pics of the cells and the default config that Daly is setup with. I was hoping to easily set the BMS up once connected but there are so many opinions on what's best that I'm still lost on what will work for my situation. Maybe y'all can help. Anything is much appreciated ?. 
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