S Davis
Solar Addict
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2021
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Luyuan battery case
- Thread starter dddem
- Start date
I thought it strange that the BMS was packaged in simple bubble wrap. That doesn't seem to be non-static packaging.
Agreed. I try to be very careful. Never attach lead harnesses before verifying connections. Never attach battery until harnesses and other cables are connected. Most of my work is done on or near a concrete floor. No carpeting.
She’s home, now at 510+ah at 24v.
Not the cleanest set up by far, the “old switch and shunt” mounted to the Lynx didn’t make it easy to add the second battery. So much other clutter and junk in the utility closest that I need to clean up and organize.
I could have done the “cross parallel” connection” and only one main lead to the Lynx, but for some reason I really want the battery case and the display pointing towards the door. So that forced my hand to make new run and landed the positive on the fused terminal of the Lynx and the negative on the shunt double stacked.
Per the BMS’s the new battery was .1v different to the old 230ah, the new one took just over 120w when I closed the breaker and after a few min flow was under 20w. I’m sure it’ll take a few days plus to bring the new battery bank to 27.6v. Id wager the new one was prob at 50% as the cells never have seen anything above 3.37v.
And yes I know the red heat shrink on the negative lead is giving people OCD issues.
Not the cleanest set up by far, the “old switch and shunt” mounted to the Lynx didn’t make it easy to add the second battery. So much other clutter and junk in the utility closest that I need to clean up and organize.
I could have done the “cross parallel” connection” and only one main lead to the Lynx, but for some reason I really want the battery case and the display pointing towards the door. So that forced my hand to make new run and landed the positive on the fused terminal of the Lynx and the negative on the shunt double stacked.
Per the BMS’s the new battery was .1v different to the old 230ah, the new one took just over 120w when I closed the breaker and after a few min flow was under 20w. I’m sure it’ll take a few days plus to bring the new battery bank to 27.6v. Id wager the new one was prob at 50% as the cells never have seen anything above 3.37v.
And yes I know the red heat shrink on the negative lead is giving people OCD issues.
Attachments
awpatterson217
AWP
Boxes officially shipped!
Anyone have a rough estimate for how long they will take to arrive? I live in FL.
awpatterson217
AWP
Finally got resolution on this. It took a couple of weeks but 18650batterystore replaced the cells and had me ship back the damaged ones.
30 to 40 days, depending on when the next ship departs China.
Mine took about 4 weeks from leaving the factory (ups tracking numbers initiated) to landing at my door in NH, figure prob same time for your order.
Steve_S
Emperor Of Solar
UPDATE showing the Luyuan Cases setup in Parallel.
This is a "Work In Progress" photo with basic description embedded.
I still have some "housekeeping" to do with the wiring as well as finishing the 24V -> 12V converter & 12V Fuse panel, EtherSwitch & wiring etc.
In Mid August Pack 7 (Frankenstein) will be joining the Family and that completes the Battery & Solar system for my home.
The bank has EVE LF280 in all packs.
EVE LF-280 V1 (2018) Bulk Cells. [Tapped Holes]
EVE LF-280-N V2 (2019/2020) (B-Grade) & 1 pack (A-Grade), [Welded Post]
EVE LF-280-K V3 (B-Grade) with [Welded Posts]
EVE LF-280-K V3 (A-Grade) with [dual screw terminals].
Notes of possible interest.
Packs all reach Full 100% when cells hit 3.448V (JK setting). As they enter into FLOAT, most are under 0.010 differential but ONE Pack, the oldest V1 Bulk Cell pack which "may" be 0.030 / 0.040 out but with the 2A Active Balancing that is sorted within 20 minutes. All packs stay inline regardless of loading & stressing and quickly recover post Deep Discharge Pull (200A draw).
JK Application Notes:
New PC-APP 2.8.0.23 is Available. From Andy's Garage: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nSaDum-zEce2jV2xhq-s_y2Fy-pgZ7ej/view?usp=drive_link
Also NEW PHONE APP (Droid anyways) is now up to 4.25.0 (July 28,2024) Also on Google Play but here is the Home Link: https://www.pgyer.com/Cfq3
** This fixes some fields that can take 3 Decimal Point accurate values and other important patches needed.
This is a "Work In Progress" photo with basic description embedded.
I still have some "housekeeping" to do with the wiring as well as finishing the 24V -> 12V converter & 12V Fuse panel, EtherSwitch & wiring etc.
In Mid August Pack 7 (Frankenstein) will be joining the Family and that completes the Battery & Solar system for my home.
The bank has EVE LF280 in all packs.
EVE LF-280 V1 (2018) Bulk Cells. [Tapped Holes]
EVE LF-280-N V2 (2019/2020) (B-Grade) & 1 pack (A-Grade), [Welded Post]
EVE LF-280-K V3 (B-Grade) with [Welded Posts]
EVE LF-280-K V3 (A-Grade) with [dual screw terminals].
Notes of possible interest.
Packs all reach Full 100% when cells hit 3.448V (JK setting). As they enter into FLOAT, most are under 0.010 differential but ONE Pack, the oldest V1 Bulk Cell pack which "may" be 0.030 / 0.040 out but with the 2A Active Balancing that is sorted within 20 minutes. All packs stay inline regardless of loading & stressing and quickly recover post Deep Discharge Pull (200A draw).
JK Application Notes:
New PC-APP 2.8.0.23 is Available. From Andy's Garage: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nSaDum-zEce2jV2xhq-s_y2Fy-pgZ7ej/view?usp=drive_link
Also NEW PHONE APP (Droid anyways) is now up to 4.25.0 (July 28,2024) Also on Google Play but here is the Home Link: https://www.pgyer.com/Cfq3
** This fixes some fields that can take 3 Decimal Point accurate values and other important patches needed.
Wire Details: Makes a difference !
- Master DC BUSBARS are 8-Post 600A HD Bars from Amomd Marine are connected to the Midnite E-Panel & then to the Inverter/Charger with Southwire Royal Excelene 4/0 Welding Cable.
- Battery Packs are connected to Master Busbars through 200A MRBF Fuses on Bar, using KALAS 1/0 FlexWhip Segmented Wire (Can handle 300A), these cables are exactly 42-3/4" long.
- Cable Terminals are Nickle Plated Pure Copper (not tinned) and hydraulically crimped. Sealed with Shrink Tubing with adhesive/sealant.
- Master DC BUSBARS are 8-Post 600A HD Bars from Amomd Marine are connected to the Midnite E-Panel & then to the Inverter/Charger with Southwire Royal Excelene 4/0 Welding Cable.
- Battery Packs are connected to Master Busbars through 200A MRBF Fuses on Bar, using KALAS 1/0 FlexWhip Segmented Wire (Can handle 300A), these cables are exactly 42-3/4" long.
- Cable Terminals are Nickle Plated Pure Copper (not tinned) and hydraulically crimped. Sealed with Shrink Tubing with adhesive/sealant.
This is with Version 15.24 Firmware on PB2A16S20P
NB: I do not use an AIO and while paralleled & RS485 Connected (for monitoring etc) this does not interact with my Midnite SCC's or Samlex EVO-4024 Inverter/Charger. This is the pack with my Oldest EVE LF-280 cells originally bought from XUBA when Amy Wan of Luyuan still worked for those shmucks.
NB: I do not use an AIO and while paralleled & RS485 Connected (for monitoring etc) this does not interact with my Midnite SCC's or Samlex EVO-4024 Inverter/Charger. This is the pack with my Oldest EVE LF-280 cells originally bought from XUBA when Amy Wan of Luyuan still worked for those shmucks.
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I gotta look into how I update the firmware of my older 8s 200a jk, spring 2023.
In the app it doesn’t list the SOC 100% voltage value. My new JK does list it.
I have a smart shunt so it’s not crucial but it causes the older batter to list 23% when cells are 3.42v.
In the app it doesn’t list the SOC 100% voltage value. My new JK does list it.
I have a smart shunt so it’s not crucial but it causes the older batter to list 23% when cells are 3.42v.
Do you have a smart shunt to keep track of all those units?
This was very helpful! Thank you very much for sharing your updates. Helps me as I finalize my layout and prepare for software updates. System looks great!
Steve_S
Emperor Of Solar
OF COURSE ! LMAO, It's a Midnite Solar WizBangJr inside the E-Panel, connected to Master SCC the C-200.
The shunt is set to 99% Efficiency and is pretty damned bangh on the button.
JK-Inverter Firmware 14.24 now resolves down to 0.3A, apparently 15.27 get's to 0.2A. It is however Extremely Critical that the BMS is Voltage Calibrated to 3 Decimal Points, at 2 Decimal accuracy there is deviation.
Steve_S
Emperor Of Solar
Only the JK Inverter edition has upgradeable Firmware, which is done with the PC APP with pack set to Address "1".
JK also has a RJ45 -> USB cable which some vendors charge extra for, it's about $10 USD I think (pends on vendor) as some include it.
Either OLD or NEW JKBMS' MUST be voltage Calibrated to work properly & to resolve SOC. This is set on the Settings Page at the top just under # of cells, AH etc...
Simplest Way: If you have a YR1030/1035 or equivalent cell tester, you can read the Voltage at the Battery Pack Terminals and enter the correct voltage as seen at terminals The YR's can handle up to 100VDC so your fine with that. Otherwise a Good DMM/DVOM with 3 decimal accuracy is needed. 2 Decimal values allow for too much variance and will throw off SOC readings. BEST to check when no energy is flowing in/out of pack and then you do not have to try & figure the Amps. (pull the (+) wire off the pack, test, reinstall (+) wire. PITA but quick & best result.
I replaced my entire fleet of OLD JK's with the new ones on the Bank Refresh. Even my old ones, once calibrated were quite accurate until they got below 20% and would deviate from my MIdnite SmartShunt (WizBangJr).
How much do each of these packs weigh?
Steve_S
Emperor Of Solar
Each is "about" 50Kg - they are 8S - 24V. Finding a GOOD shelving system was a ROYAL PITA but I finally came upon this at HomeDepot
Even with just 3 Packs on a shelf, there is a "little" deflection but not at all serious.
For us not using made up units, it’s about +100lbs. Granted I have a non inverter BMS so it’s a little lighter
I was moving mine around and heard a “click” of one of the side handles when it was dangling above my feet trying to slide it home. Nothing happened but def gave me a nice pucker factor
The stock terminal covers were tight on my
2/0 lugs, I was able to bend the lugs back a little bit, but the caps are still raised up but they aren’t falling off. Oh well.
Steve_S
Emperor Of Solar
50kg X 2.2 = 110Lbs in reality it's more likely about 117 Lbs because the steel case has real weight to it plus all the other stuff put in there. Depends on the cells in there too, I have 280AH but 304's add more weight too.
Those handles on the cases have a hell of a spring, I also scared the hell out of myself because of one, couple of beats skipped for sure LOL.
Those handles on the cases have a hell of a spring, I also scared the hell out of myself because of one, couple of beats skipped for sure LOL.
Shahmeer
New Member
Have you checked these wheels?
Attachments
Do you know if it's possible to have Amy add some sort of heat pad to these to make them more resilient in an RV application?
ArthurEld
Solar Wizard
No, I'm using the wheels it came with. If you try them let us know what you think
I didn't explore that option. I just bought a set of pads from UltraHeat. Expensive, but I've been using their pads on my LiFePO4 batteries for four years with no issues. Let me know if you want a contact for them.
I’d agree this and say adding a class T fuse is something field user can modify as needed.
For heat pads, how are they being controlled internal to the bad or via BMS?
Remember these cases are sub contracted out so controls are kinda lax, as can be seen with various types of “bridge” bus bars and lugs and ferrules for breakers.
I'm still working on that. The Victron relays can't handle many amps. The heating pads require slightly more amps than the relays are rated for.
Thread I'm working with to come up with a good solution:
48VDC Heater mats
Does anybody know of a 48 volt DC heater mat that I can keep my batteries warm with? I have a DIY system in a enclosed trailer and at the beginning of last winter I started getting low temperature disconnect for charging. To protect my batteries and my investment I decommissioned my system and...
diysolarforum.com
Use the victron relay to control a bigger relay?I'm still working on that. The Victron relays can't handle many amps. The heating pads require slightly more amps than the relays are rated for.
Thread I'm working with to come up with a good solution:
48VDC Heater mats
Does anybody know of a 48 volt DC heater mat that I can keep my batteries warm with? I have a DIY system in a enclosed trailer and at the beginning of last winter I started getting low temperature disconnect for charging. To protect my batteries and my investment I decommissioned my system and...
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