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Luyuan battery case

The JK Inverter BMS "Active Balancer" is better IMO than their previous BMS model.
SOC calculations are total TRASH though and quite pointless because of it.
When running OPEN LOOP (not connected to AIO etc) they charge up & go to float (based on SCC/Charger profile) and do so very nicely and actually behave very nicely between each other in Parallel.

Amy @ Luyuan has done a marvelous job of putting together battery pack kits to accommodate our needs and wants for the most part... Always room for improvement & tweaks LOL. They are working on a few other offerings to come available soon. NOTE that she is also actively looking for alternatives to the JK-Inverter as more & more people are asking for something that is NOT JK ! Current has Seplos, Pace, JBD, Chargery BMS'.

I'm glad that you got your setup done & running as you had hoped. Sure is a sweet thing to see working well isn't it.
 
My suggestions for the battery case are:
1. More room inside by the cells. There isn't enough room on the side of the 280Ah EVE cells to add warming pads. 1/4" on each side of the cells would be helpful. The downside is it makes the battery case 1" wider. Alternatively, if the sides of the battery case came off (like the top) I could apply the warming pads. There seems to be some dead space on the sides of the battery case. The side wall is double. Perhaps that's structural? Maybe eliminate the double wall to provide more room.
2. More room between the front panel and the BMS mounting panel/cell compression panel. I put a Class T fuse in this area. It fit, but it was darn tight. Another inch of room would have helped.
3. Lighter. Maybe construct it out of aluminum?
4. Inverter pre-charge. The JK BMS seems capable of the inrush to charge the capacitors, but my fuse wasn't. I'm implementing a pre-charge using a 48v lightbulb as a cheap workaround.

The two handles on each side are great! Very heavy duty and I sure appreciated them once the battery box was full of cells.
Cable management above the cells was a very nice touch.

Overall, I think it's a great battery case.
 
With my portable build since it was only one battery to the Multiplus II a 24v bulb was used for a precharge. I was surprised it took only a couple of seconds.

With my original build there was more than one battery and it went fine without a precharge.
 
HRTKD said:
My suggestions for the battery case are:
1. More room inside by the cells. There isn't enough room on the side of the 280Ah EVE cells to add warming pads. 1/4" on each side of the cells would be helpful. The downside is it makes the battery case 1" wider. Alternatively, if the sides of the battery case came off (like the top) I could apply the warming pads. There seems to be some dead space on the sides of the battery case. The side wall is double. Perhaps that's structural? Maybe eliminate the double wall to provide more room.
2. More room between the front panel and the BMS mounting panel/cell compression panel. I put a Class T fuse in this area. It fit, but it was darn tight. Another inch of room would have helped.
3. Lighter. Maybe construct it out of aluminum?
4. Inverter pre-charge. The JK BMS seems capable of the inrush to charge the capacitors, but my fuse wasn't. I'm implementing a pre-charge using a 48v lightbulb as a cheap workaround.

The two handles on each side are great! Very heavy duty and I sure appreciated them once the battery box was full of cells.
Cable management above the cells was a very nice touch.

Overall, I think it's a great battery case.
Click to expand...
arrange vertical reinforcements to be able to securely stack 3-4 boxes. It will work now, but 4 extra support rods inside to handle the weight would be nice
 
HRTKD said:
My suggestions for the battery case are:
1. More room inside by the cells. There isn't enough room on the side of the 280Ah EVE cells to add warming pads. 1/4" on each side of the cells would be helpful. The downside is it makes the battery case 1" wider. Alternatively, if the sides of the battery case came off (like the top) I could apply the warming pads. There seems to be some dead space on the sides of the battery case. The side wall is double. Perhaps that's structural? Maybe eliminate the double wall to provide more room.
2. More room between the front panel and the BMS mounting panel/cell compression panel. I put a Class T fuse in this area. It fit, but it was darn tight. Another inch of room would have helped.
3. Lighter. Maybe construct it out of aluminum?
4. Inverter pre-charge. The JK BMS seems capable of the inrush to charge the capacitors, but my fuse wasn't. I'm implementing a pre-charge using a 48v lightbulb as a cheap workaround.

The two handles on each side are great! Very heavy duty and I sure appreciated them once the battery box was full of cells.
Cable management above the cells was a very nice touch.

Overall, I think it's a great battery case.
Click to expand...
Why are the cases so expensive? Are there more affordable options?
 
ohmboy said:
Why are the cases so expensive? Are there more affordable options?
Click to expand...
Well they gotta be strong enough for all the weight.
And they are purpose built vs a generic metal box, so economies of scale are lower.
That said, I didn't think the Luyuan box was overly expensive.
 
Steve_S

Post in thread 'Luyuan battery case'

HEADS UP !!!
Pay attention to the Breaker Clamps that hold the wire. The ones Amy is shipping have Grabber Bumps in the round part at the bottom that "grab" the ferrule. This crushes the ferrule into a D Shape with the top being flat, the bottom is rounded with the 5 bumps grabbing the ferrule.

Originally, Amy shipped the BMS Cables with a plain Copper Ferrule but switched to the tinned ones. I played with both, including pre-crimping and not to see what worked best. I quickly realized that pre-crimping was not needed BUT there is a gotcha, you do need the Strands to be sticking out...
  • Like
As a follow up on the breaker and ferrules topics.

I had ordered several chinesium breakers, and also tested with the yr1035+ meter, the resistance of the ferrule versus the stift-lug from Klauke I have been using.

First the breakers;
1727979829272.png

1727979835958.png

1727979846228.png

1727979852988.png

1727979863460.png

1727979870221.png
On the left the supplied Luyuan, CHCYZO breaker.

Its quite funny and sad in the same time, that these all look 99% the same. I cannot actually imagine that there would be ANY difference inside. Apart form the MCCB one of course. That one is like a F16 carrier aircraft release handle... :)

I am going to take apart the most sad one of all, the 4kA one. Later...

Rest is 6kA, some 10kA breaking capacity. The MCCB is 25 kA (its the Icu value right>).

I have switched each breaker 10 times off and one to get some better contact inside. Then I measured the resistance (in how far this tells something). The mOhms also were difficult to measure often, it gets a value and it decreases slowly. After 10-20sec then is seems to stabilize...

1727980117429.png

Chcyzo
0.83 mohm

Taixi
0.73 mohm

Dihool
0.96 mohm

Nanque dz47z-125k
0.99 mohm

Nanque dz47-150
0.90 mohm

Nanque mccb nqcm1-250 b200a
0.45 mohm

The fatty MCCB is the winner of course. I will try to test the 150A (red breaker) asap, with 140A 5minutes, what the temps will do.
Fitting the MCCB in the box is almost impossible. At least in a way you can flip the handle... Alternative way is outside, but then you have a empty hole in the front plate.

Lets go to the terminals.
1727980223627.png

1727980230466.png

The cage will be pulled upwards. I can imagine you don't want bare class6 strands in there alone. A ferrule the is thin, will form to the way the cage clamps. I also tested the "stift" Klauke lug.

1727980300615.png

1727980307392.png
Here you see the ferrule is kind of compressed. (it was round - hex shaped in the beginning with my crimp tool)

1727980357100.png

Bottom one my own made cable with Klauke lug.

1727980381033.png
Measurement on terminal left, and on the right on the lug, with both versions of the cable.

With ferrule:
1.12 mohm end of cable
0.96 mohm direct at ferrule


With Klauke stift:
1.18 mohm end of cable
0.93 mohm direct at stift (photo above)

Seems to me not much difference, both ways it makes OK contact right? :)
Luyuan said the terminals of their breaker are for 11Nm. This wil destroy the breaker. So I am not sure how this is performed lol...

Upcoming: 140A test with the red 150A breaker. Open-up the 4kA breaker. Maybe test with 140A on the 200A MCCB.
If also the red 150A will heat up to 50 deg Celsius.....then maybe ill skip the breaker and ill have nothing. Or the MCCB. OR again nothing...Or is this really not-done :)
 
I think it’s 11mn or until it clicks case expands, then back off a quarter turn 😜

Least that’s what I did with mine. My 8s case has been in service since July, light loads never above 40a. When I bring it home for the winter I’ll do a tightness check on everything.
 
As promised, the mccb.

1000041840.jpg

1000041842.jpg

I will replace the supplied breaker with these mccb 200a variants.

Not operational without removing front plate, but that should be no dealbreaker...
 
For those of you with one of these boxes in a mobile environment, how are you securing it?

The plan is to use angle aluminum on all four sides, secured to the floor of the RV to keep the battery box from moving horizontally. Securing it in the vertical direction is a bit murky. I was thinking of using a lashing strap like the one pictured below. It's like a ratchet strap that doesn't ratchet. It just needs to be snug, not tight. The ends of the strap would be secured (somehow) to the angle aluminum.

I need to keep the sides of the box as clear as possible because I'm going to surround the box with 2" rigid foam in the winter to help it retain heat.

1728094484342.png
 
1000042006.jpg1000042007.jpg1000042008.jpg

Fyi.
Measured the resistance at the box terminals, full charged.
Cells balanced now. Charge with 100A and last bit with 30 and 10 and 5A, towards 56v. Took some hours for the pack to balance. 330Ah, thats great, that was my expectation :)

Second thing on the mccb, maybe i can cut an extra hole, so its still operational. Lets see.
 
prosier said:
As we know the 2 metal top bars over the cells do not fit. I made it fit by drilling the screw holes a bit larger. However, it also seems the 2 bars are too long. They touch the wall at the back side of the case when mounting the bar. So also I had to shorten the metal bars by 5mm or so at one end.
Click to expand...
Mine fit. I used all of the padding between them. Without the padding the metal top bars were a tad too long.
 
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