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LV6548 and SOK server rack battery communication warning 61

That's fantastic, thank you for checking that out.
Does anyone have the 112.14 firmware so we could compare it against the 112.19.
I had a look through the files for the firmware update on 112.19 and you can see the hex file that gets uploaded during the reflash

UPDATE:
I've emailed MPP Solar to see if they will release this firmware upgrade officially, lets see what happens...
 
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Does anyone have the 112.14 firmware so we could compare it against the 112.19.
I don't think comparing hex files would give us any idea what's the difference between them. The firmware is most likely encoded and/or encrypted
 
I've been in contact with MPP and they've provided me with an official 112.19 upgrade.

I have successfully updated my MPP PIP Max 11kW Inverter, the update worked and I have working communications with the SOK 48v server rack batteries, still working without issues after 48 hours.

I had a similiar experience to @fanchazstic, were the update stopped, just after the flash had been erased. Not good when the remote display is dead.

This was down to a crap USB RS232 adapter from the laptop to the remote display, the one that worked eventually used a FTDI chipset.

With the working USB adapter I tried to flash the remote display in the inverter, this also failed, the display got very warm, and failed half way into the update. I removed the remote display from the inverter and opened the display up, directed a fan on it and updated no problem, took about 12 minutes.

The version number for the U1 is still 57.01 but the U2 has been updated to 112.19 from 112.14.
 
I need to check but in theory the RS232 cable for the SOK battery could be used, I will check if it uses genuine FTDI chipset, but I'm pretty sure it does.
 
Ok guys, what am I missing here? I removed the PCB from the housing and have an 80mm fan blowing air on it (a lot of air). I don't feel anything warm so I know it's doing a good job cooling it. I tried 2 different USB cables. It tries to write and quickly says 206 blocks/sec, then goes to 0 and the "writed blocks" never moves. Have any of you had this problem?

@ABJ any chance you can send me the official firmware you received?
 

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Ok guys, what am I missing here? I removed the PCB from the housing and have an 80mm fan blowing air on it (a lot of air). I don't feel anything warm so I know it's doing a good job cooling it. I tried 2 different USB cables. It tries to write and quickly says 206 blocks/sec, then goes to 0 and the "writed blocks" never moves. Have any of you had this problem?

@ABJ any chance you can send me the official firmware you received?
Have not experienced that. I did have the first update fail and blacken the screen, but the cooling helped on my 2nd try.
 
Ok guys, what am I missing here? I removed the PCB from the housing and have an 80mm fan blowing air on it (a lot of air). I don't feel anything warm so I know it's doing a good job cooling it. I tried 2 different USB cables. It tries to write and quickly says 206 blocks/sec, then goes to 0 and the "writed blocks" never moves. Have any of you had this problem?

@ABJ any chance you can send me the official firmware you received?
Yours acts exactly like mine first unit. A first dozen of attempts I was seeing the same 0 progress of writes. Until I decided to let it cool down on my bench. Don't leave it working or even connected to battery/grid. After 30 mins resting it started actually writing something but still failing at 13%, 20%, 80% and eventually it made it to 100%. Try cool it in a freezer before you flash this might help. I used a really good airflow using my 7 gal air compressor.
Edit: My second unit succeeded on the second attempt though
 
Yours acts exactly like mine first unit. A first dozen of attempts I was seeing the same 0 progress of writes. Until I decided to let it cool down on my bench. Don't leave it working or even connected to battery/grid. After 30 mins resting it started actually writing something but still failing at 13%, 20%, 80% and eventually it made it to 100%. Try cool it in a freezer before you flash this might help. I used a really good airflow using my 7 gal air compressor.
Edit: My second unit succeeded on the second attempt though

Holy crap, 10 minutes in the refrigerator and now it's writing blocks! This is incredibly... dumb.

Edit: Failed at 10%. Guess I need a better cooling source.
Edit2: Got it, thank you!!!!
 
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Ok guys, what am I missing here? I removed the PCB from the housing and have an 80mm fan blowing air on it (a lot of air). I don't feel anything warm so I know it's doing a good job cooling it. I tried 2 different USB cables. It tries to write and quickly says 206 blocks/sec, then goes to 0 and the "writed blocks" never moves. Have any of you had this problem?

@ABJ any chance you can send me the official firmware you received?
This is exactly what happened to my upgrade.
Looks like you've got things sorted now... can't wait for the video
 
Have 3/4 flashed no issue. The 4th died at 90%. Power cycle, open the case, removed the
sticker covering the main ASIC with the old firmware label. Started flashing and
it completed.
 
Just got new MPP LV6548. I successfully started the MCU firmware update but it didn’t complete, leaving a blank screen. Next attempts wouldn’t even connect to start the reflash. Tried fan, air compressor, A/C vent to cool board with no effect. Then used Ethernet cable to external remote display port and put the connected board in the freezer for an hour. Started reflash tool and it magically worked. Now at 112.19 and fingers crossed it will communicate with my SOK battery which is arriving tomorrow. Thanks for everyone’s sleuthing on this issue!
 
Glad to hear I'm not the only one. I called Current Connected on Monday afternoon and had to leave a voicemail because all of their techs were busy. I might call back tomorrow and see if I can get a hold of anyone.




If you set the battery type to USE in setting 5 it disables communication and will work in voltage controlled mode. You will have to program settings 26, 27, and 29 yourself though. I did this for the time being so my system will function until I get communication working.
I have purchased the LV6548 but haven't hooked it up yet. What are the recommended settings for 26, 27 and 29? I have the 12v 200Ah LiFeSO4 Rich Solar batteries I will be hooking up to this unit, no communication capability with them that I am aware. Will be using the USE setting in setting #5. Jeesh, shouldn't be this much trouble to make something work correctly as long as we've been designing and using electronics. Not technical here, all this firmware updates and issues others are having is intimidating me. Hoping by using the USE setting in #5 will eliminate having to update. I just want the damn thing to work like it's supposed to!
Thanks
 
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I have purchased the LV6548 but haven't hooked it up yet. What are the recommended settings for 26, 27 and 29? I have the 12v 200Ah LiFeSO4 Rich Solar batteries I will be hooking up to this unit, no communication capability with them that I am aware. Will be using the USE setting in setting #5. Jeesh, shouldn't be this much trouble to make something work correctly as long as we've been designing and using electronics. Not technical here, all this firmware updates and issues others are having is intimidating me. Hoping by using the USE setting in #5 will eliminate having to update. I just want the damn thing to work like it's supposed to!
Thanks
Those settings will be specific to your battery and you can get them from the manufacturer. Just for reference I used 57.8v, 55.2v, and 44v for 26, 27, and 29 respectively. Again make sure to consult your battery's spec sheet or manufacturer. Once you set them however you shouldn't have any issues or need to update. These units seem to work perfectly fine in voltage control mode.
 
I updated the OP with information from all the replies here. I appreciate everyone who has tried the upgrade and reported their experience. I am much more confident recommending people try out 112.19 now that it's available officially from Watts247 and MPP and that all the troubles flashing seem to be resolved by cooling off the remote panel (even if extreme measures like putting it in a freezer are required). At this point the results seem pretty consistent but if anyone else tries the upgrade and wants to report back their experience it can only help. The more data points the better.
 
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Those settings will be specific to your battery and you can get them from the manufacturer. Just for reference I used 57.8v, 55.2v, and 44v for 26, 27, and 29 respectively. Again make sure to consult your battery's spec sheet or manufacturer. Once you set them however you shouldn't have any issues or need to update. These units seem to work perfectly fine in voltage control mode.
Thank you, will check the website and if still in doubt call Rich Solar.
 
Every lv6548, eg46500ex I own (six currently) have this issue. I can't get it to work whether I use eg4, sok, trophy, orient power, energetech server rack batteries.

This is why I haven't posted my communication video. None of them work at all. I've got a stack of Ethernet cables, no luck.

The only communication I have seen work is sol ark and EG4's small all in one system. That's it.
Has anyone tried the solution given on YouTube by Watts24/7 where they get connection right out of the box without changing protocol? Pins 1&2 to 3 & 5 if I remember correctly. Sure would like to find a solution, CC is of no help so far.
 
Has anyone tried the solution given on YouTube by Watts24/7 where they get connection right out of the box without changing protocol? Pins 1&2 to 3 & 5 if I remember correctly. Sure would like to find a solution, CC is of no help so far.
I haven't seen the video you're talking about but I don't see how it would be possible to get communication working in USE mode. You need to the protocol to Pylontech. If you are having trouble with communication check your firmware version. This thread is about a (now) known problem with secondary firmware version 112.14. If your unit has that version you will need to upgrade to 112.19 or newer. If you are on a different firmware version then there is likely something wrong with your setup and we would need more details to help figure out what's wrong.
 
Has anyone tried the solution given on YouTube by Watts24/7 where they get connection right out of the box without changing protocol? Pins 1&2 to 3 & 5 if I remember correctly. Sure would like to find a solution, CC is of no help so far.
Hi B.T., if you are who I'm thinking you are, we replied to both of your emails yesterday within 15 minutes of receiving them. If not, please send me an email and I'll make sure to get back to you immediately.

On the battery, pin 1 & pin 8 are connected internally, as are pin 2 and pin 7, as are pin 3 and pin 6. You can use either set, it really doesn't matter.
 
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