Made a Diagram - Dose this look right? For a solar battery box

[EddieM]

Here is my diagram for my battery box.
Place take a look and see if I have anything wrong or need to change anything or add anything to it.

Solar charge controller will not be in the box it will be mounted on wood.
The inverter will not be in the box but ready to be plugged in when needed.

I wanted to set it up like this so when I make a second battery box I can use the same Solar charge controller and just swop out the boxes plug and play.
I have two 200 watt solar panels I will mount on our shed roof.

The battery will be a SOK Battery 100Ah 12V LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Phosphate.

I Have two different versions of wiring it up but not sure if I have it right or not? Or what version would be best to have an On/Off box switch?
Fuse block VS inline fuse?
Thanks

 

[Hedges]

One ore connector so charge controller can stay on line while running inverter?

Very short wires, Ok for 80+ amps on individual 6 awg, but fatter cables would be preferred.

Should have a fuse right at the battery, with interrupt rating high enough for battery's short-circuit current.
Should have disconnect for inverter. Current appears low enough that good breakers are possible.

"BMS" implies lithium - what can battery put out? What will BMS allow? What limit for internal fuses?

What do you plan to run with inverter? Some things have a starting surge.

 

[EddieM]

The inverter would be used just when needed maybe for a coffie maker or running a TV.

Do not think i would use the inverter with charge controller at the same time as the battery box and inverter will be more moble to more around from room to room or outside.

Was thinking about a fuse right at the battery but not sure what to get?

One ore connector so charge controller can stay on line while running inverter?

Very short wires, Ok for 80+ amps on individual 6 awg, but fatter cables would be preferred.

Should have a fuse right at the battery, with interrupt rating high enough for battery's short-circuit current.
Should have disconnect for inverter. Current appears low enough that good breakers are possible.

"BMS" implies lithium - what can battery put out? What will BMS allow? What limit for internal fuses?

What do you plan to run with inverter? Some things have a starting surge.

 

[Hedges]

But being able to charge and run inverter at same time would be more convenient. A portable battery can't run a large load for long. With charging, it can all work cycling through each day, given enough sun to match loads.

Blue Sea is a source for quality fuses and breakers:

Fuses - Blue Sea Systems

Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance

www.bluesea.com

Also Outback, Midnight, LittleFuse, other names.

Fuse or breaker should be 25% larger than heaviest continuous load (doesn't need to cover the peak surge starting a motor)
Wire has be heavy enough to handle fuse rating, according to ampacity charts.

Inverter needs to be able to supply peak starting current of any loads, which sometimes several times the rating on the load for motors.
If you run a microwave, that draws about 50% more than it's cooking power wattage.

Lead-acid and especially lithium batteries can put out a lot of current into a short. For instance, my previous 100 Ah AGM battery can do about 4000 amps. My new 405 Ah AGM battery can do about 16,000A. This ANL fuse is only rated 6000A interrupting. I'm using Class T with 20,000A interrupt rating.

ANL Fuse - 100 Amp - Blue Sea Systems

Use with ANL Fuse Blocks for many applications with 35-750 Amp loads

www.bluesea.com

Looks like Midnight says their breaker doesn't have to be 25% oversize.
Going to the documents page, I find 50,000A interrupting at 125Vdc (which surprises me - I'm used to breakers and DC being lower, fuses and AC being higher)

Product - MidNite Solar

MidNite Solar Product Page.

www.midnitesolar.com

What I have is breakers that came built in to my inverters (should trip for any overload), and I put a class T fuse at the battery bank (should blow if a dead short)

 

[EddieM]

Thanks This first box is going to be used the most to run a 12 volt fridge/freezer I have an ICECO JP50 on the way.
It will also run our DC internet device that takes little power and charge a cell phone as needed.
The inverter I might not even get till I build my next battery.
I want to build a 200AH version next or I might just buy a Bluettie 2400 that has it all in it. But I like the idea of building and knowing how it all works myself if I need to replace or fix something.

Part of my plan is to move a system into a van at some point. We are looking at used low mile vans or box vans for our business and would put panels on the roof of it and then mount the inverter in that and try to set up a mini-split system AC like in this video he runs it 24/7 from solar

For our business, we work on the beach most of the year we do beach weddings and portraits. At the weddings in summer, it is very hot with no shade so an AC running to sit in the van would be great VS sitting with the motor and AC on. Then if we had a power out we could sleep in the van with AC and run a radio, TV, and DC internet and charge laptops and bring the first battery out with the freezer.
We just had no power as we were hit by Hurricane Sally things are a mess here. We evacuated to a hotel for 3 days and the hotel lost power the first night. We got lucky our home only has minor damage but others on my block have a lot of damage. Some homes are no longer liveable we think they got hit by a small tornado that missed us.

So I should put a 100amp fuse on the battery + side.
Can I just bolt the bluesea fuse on to the battery and then bolt the other end to the wire without using a fuse block?

Going to each of the 4 outlets I am leaning to inline wire fuses as I keep reading reviews of fuse blocks that burn-up or start to melt. So thinking with inline only one at a time will blow if a problem happens so no melting of a block. What do you think?

My battery monitor requires a shunt I think it is called to be put in to.

But being able to charge and run inverter at same time would be more convenient. A portable battery can't run a large load for long. With charging, it can all work cycling through each day, given enough sun to match loads.

Blue Sea is a source for quality fuses and breakers:

Fuses - Blue Sea Systems

Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance

www.bluesea.com

Also Outback, Midnight, LittleFuse, other names.

Fuse or breaker should be 25% larger than heaviest continuous load (doesn't need to cover the peak surge starting a motor)
Wire has be heavy enough to handle fuse rating, according to ampacity charts.

Inverter needs to be able to supply peak starting current of any loads, which sometimes several times the rating on the load for motors.
If you run a microwave, that draws about 50% more than it's cooking power wattage.

Lead-acid and especially lithium batteries can put out a lot of current into a short. For instance, my previous 100 Ah AGM battery can do about 4000 amps. My new 405 Ah AGM battery can do about 16,000A. This ANL fuse is only rated 6000A interrupting. I'm using Class T with 20,000A interrupt rating.

ANL Fuse - 100 Amp - Blue Sea Systems

Use with ANL Fuse Blocks for many applications with 35-750 Amp loads

www.bluesea.com

Looks like Midnight says their breaker doesn't have to be 25% oversize.
Going to the documents page, I find 50,000A interrupting at 125Vdc (which surprises me - I'm used to breakers and DC being lower, fuses and AC being higher)

Product - MidNite Solar

MidNite Solar Product Page.

www.midnitesolar.com

What I have is breakers that came built in to my inverters (should trip for any overload), and I put a class T fuse at the battery bank (should blow if a dead short)

 

[Hedges]

100A isn't necessarily the best size. Probably something like 150A, 175A.
Ideally a fuse will never blow unless a wire chafes and gets shorted. Sometimes they can protect electronics if something bad happens.

Yeah, no fuse block for the inverter path, just its one fuse holder. You can use a block for all for other small 12V loads, and the charge controller (which probably specifies a smaller fuse.)

Start with the maximum continuous rating of your inverter. Determine how many amps at (12?) volts that would be. Increase to account for efficiency of inverter at full load. Add 25% to that to prevent nuisance trips (but I think Midnight said you don't have to with their breakers). Round up to the next standard breaker/fuse. Select a wire at least that large, even larger if any appreciable length (IR drop adds up fast as a percentage of 12V.) Compute IR drop based on peak surge current, much higher than continuous current. Use a larger wire for acceptable IR drop.

The kind of fuse depends on how many short circuit amps your battery bank can put out. ANL is less expensive, class T costs more and can interrupt more. Those specs for Midnight are impressive; they may have done a good job designing them (tricks like magnetic field deflecting electric arc so it blows out.) I've used fuses and breakers.

 

[ghostwriter66]

see if this video gives you any ideas that may help ...