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MC4 Connectors

Hawkeye

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Joined
Jan 16, 2020
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4
Hi everybody,
Are MC4 connectors all the same or is there a much higher quality connector available. I always seem to have problems with disconnecting some of my cables as the plastic locking hooks get hard to compress or they just break. Am I doing something wrong?
 
It's pretty run of the mill. Even with a tool I have problems with old connectors. There probably are better ones out there but I haven't come across them so far.

cheapie plastic MC4 tool (the prongs at the end of the tool are used to squeeze the hook in and then you pull the connectors apart)
 
It's pretty run of the mill. Even with a tool I have problems with old connectors. There probably are better ones out there but I haven't come across them so far.

cheapie plastic MC4 tool (the prongs at the end of the tool are used to squeeze the hook in and then you pull the connectors apart)
Thanks gnubie, but there has to be a better manufactured connector out there and I hope Will or someone else knows about this..... Also, I have the plastic tools but I had one break on me (I'm old and have "fumble fingers") I wish they made metal (long lasting, high quality) disconnector tools.
 
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There might be but I've seen the connectors on LG panels go hard and you'd hope that LG would be using reasonable ones. Don't worry though, I've broken enough tabs off MC4 connectors too.

Metal MC4 tool
 
There might be but I've seen the connectors on LG panels go hard and you'd hope that LG would be using reasonable ones. Don't worry though, I've broken enough tabs off MC4 connectors too.

Metal MC4 tool
Hey, thanks for the link for the metal tool, I will order them tomorrow. It's much appreciated...
 
There's a whole heap of them on ebay, that was just the first listing so there might be a better choice of seller for you.
 
Ok guys and gals, getting back to the original question, "Has anyone discovered a better quality mc4 connector"?
 
MC4 is a brand name for a connector made originally by the company Multi Contact, now owned by Stäubli. Those are very high quality connectors. There are compatible connector from other quality manufacturers. Helios H4 from Amphenol comes to mind.

There are also heaps of cheap copies from no-name manufacturers in China, of qualities ranging from OK to poor.

As always, buying brand name products from reputable distributors will give you a known result. Buying noname stuff from AliExpress is a gamble. Connectors are important and not that expensive. For me the gamble is not worth the risk.
 
Just ordered my solar panels this weekend (4 24V/300W Renogy's). First thing I'll probably do to them is replace all the MC4s with Anderson Plugs. Two of the panels will be trailer-mounted so plan to mount 1 50A plug at the trailer hitch as I want that to be fairly easy to disconnect. The other two, fixed to the roof top of my slide in truck camper will have a smaller plug between each panel and the entry gland on the roof.
 
First thing I'll probably do to them is replace all the MC4s with Anderson Plugs.

Just be careful to label and keep things straight.

I have 12v nominal and 48v LiFePO4 stuff. For all the 12v stuff I use Andersons and have installed over 50 pairs so I do love them. For my 48v stuff I use XT60 connectors so I cannot mix things up.

The XT60's are also a nice connector and allow me to get my solder smoke fix now and again when I install them!
 
Just be careful to label and keep things straight.

I have 12v nominal and 48v LiFePO4 stuff. For all the 12v stuff I use Andersons and have installed over 50 pairs so I do love them. For my 48v stuff I use XT60 connectors so I cannot mix things up.

The XT60's are also a nice connector and allow me to get my solder smoke fix now and again when I install them!
You can get different colored Anderson plugs. Colored plugs will only fit into same colored receptacle. And, of course, it's impossible to plug in backwards, so it's kinda foolproof.

I plan to use XT60s inside for all the AC appliances I've converted to connect directly to DC (laptop, monitor, Echo Dot, Apple TV) ... none of this DC Battery > AC Inverter > AC-to-DC "brick" adapter. Seemed kinda silly.
 
The purpose of the MC4 connector.
  • weathertight
  • impossible to disconnect without a tool
The Anderson connector is designed to be
  • disconnectable.
  • no design limitation for weather or being accidentally pulled apart.
If disconnecting is part of the regular use, then obviously an Anderson is perfect.
If outside and weather is a concern then the MC4 is the way to go.
 
Regarding exterior-mounted MC4 => Anderson plug swap, see this (starting at 4:45 mark). He's had no issues with this design and they're much easier to work with and adapt than MC4. He's got 'em located elsewhere on his rig (starting at 13:24), including the undercarriage. Seems like a much better solution when you want to be able to easily connect/disconnect or build some flexibility into how you use DC "outlets." They also appear to have no issues in roof-mounted (or even undercarriage-mounted) apps, and this guy's destinations require traversing some pretty rough terrain yet they never come apart on their own.
 
XT60's are the way to go if you don't mind soldering. But for my small hobby system I'm using SAE connectors meant for automotive trailers. I like the fact they're meant for 12v, readily available ie non-proprietary so inexpensive, and meant for outdoor use so sorta weatherproof. If you buy a small panel to keep your car battery topped up it comes with a SAE connector and a 12v cigarette lighter adapter.
 
Please, just use the MC brand MC4 connectors made in germany........ there is no good cheap alternative.

The hung ji chu shun whatevers may look alike but do not fit.

The chinese modules often suffer this debilitation and when you mix cheap chinese connectors with cheap indian module leads........ faults happen.

I was electeician and pv tech on a 1.2 megaWatt system here last winter. They gave me a small pallet of cases connectors that same alibabba/amazon crapple...... i looked at it, grimmaced and notified the head electrician that these were inadequate equipment. He shrugged.

Then after terminating the first set, demonstrated that they did not fit properly and would disconnect if deflected or pressed slightly...... he said company desire to save money, shrug.
Then when we were testing the array conductor insulation with a high voltage tester (megger) there were high capacitance readings coming back from everywhere......

Then he agreed we have a problem.......'Huston defect to Mexico no other way to avoid shame

The cause of failed array wiring tests, poor quality connectors where contacts were just touching from dimensional differences and poor retention locking. Even the o-rings were of sub standard material.....

Try to find all those out here and on distributed on 6 buildings while the company is looking at is and asking what we did wrong....... I quit. Thats a lot of hood popping and under chassis crawling......for no good reason. Wrong outfit for me.
 

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Hey, thanks for the link for the metal tool, I will order them tomorrow. It's much appreciated...

You might want to keep looking ... that listing comes in 60-75 days ... wow ....

Try putting a little oil on the gasket and on the inside ... that help the sliding ... I know allot of ppl don't like these but I also will use ANDERSON connectors and then wrap them in https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K4PZ9NO/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=A3VP7QY3689O35&psc=1 if I am going to work in a real tight area and just don't have the patience for MC4 ...

BUT that's just me ... sometimes ...
 
I found this thread while searching for disconnect mc4. We have 4 folding panels that are hooked and unhooked a lot. I have broken so many plastic tools it's not funny - likely because I don't know what I'm doing. But this thread talks about Anderson connectors. Would that connector make sense for panels that are meant to be portable?
 
I found this thread while searching for disconnect mc4. We have 4 folding panels that are hooked and unhooked a lot. I have broken so many plastic tools it's not funny - likely because I don't know what I'm doing. But this thread talks about Anderson connectors. Would that connector make sense for panels that are meant to be portable?
Anderson plugs are designed to be readily disconnected.

If regular connect and disconnecting happens I would also consider twist lock ends, like for a generator.

 
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