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Micoe Heat Pump - A Dead Loss

quantum`

Earthling Observer
Joined
Aug 24, 2024
Messages
315
Location
Seattle
All I can do is warn everyone here away from Micoe heat pumps, wherever in the world you are.

I've figured out a number of problems. First, its control of the three-way valve (DHW or hydronic) is backward from others, so I had to replumb the 1" lines, swapping the roles of DHW and hydronic. This is a Euro valve so requires 230vAC, so I send it L1 and L2 to blue and brown. Black is the control, so it needs connected to its opposite (L1 or L2, depending on how the outside is wired. Bottom line: now the infernal heat pump appropriately switches the valve according to whether I select DHW or hydronic, or both.

I actually got the damned thing to heat the house for several days in hydronic mode, after purging tiny bits of air using scores of gallons of water. But the need for a shower became intense. I switched it to DHW and oh, I heard air. Purged and purged and purged, but it still faults on 'water flow' switch.

It is hyper-sensitive to air in the system and faults. It has an air purge, and I have an air purge, but they're not enough. Either the cheap-arse pump can not prime when a few bubbles, or the flow switch is badly located.

I know that some here are DIYers, but I am a developer and am the final say in tech support for all aspects of building houses with the most advanced techs -- seismic-safe, non-combustible, exceptionally energy efficient. I am ultimately responsible for everything in my business, because I do not shuck that responsibility as so many weaklings do. I have to be good, not least to keep good people and lead by expertise rather than fear.

For those who come here looking for an AWHP, I recommend Arctic Air. They are also made in Red China (yeees, it is still a Communist State) and can be had much cheaper than from Arctic.

And to Micoe: I am a developer. I am currently building out a 9 unit development of houses >$1m each. (Seattle) My own house is my test-bed. tsk tsk. Your tech support responds to me with "I see", and "millions of units work everywhere else", lol. IOW, 'too bad, so sad.' Bonus: I have developer friends. I will certainly apprise them of my findings.
 
When you mention "Arctic" are you referring to the Canadian Company, ArcticHeatPumps.com. Yes, their products are made in China but according to their published specs, have very high COP which was the primary reason I purchased that brand.

The Pool Heat pump was delivered last Spring and I had nothing but problems with it from the beginning. Compressor Failure to Start codes and excessive energy consumption. The WiFi was a PITA to get connected and has a lame, very limited user interface.

Initial responses from Arctic Tech Service were slow and not helpful. After several very irritating email exchanges and phone conversations I finally got escalated to a senior manager who did provide a technical manual and troubleshooting guide. Turns out the unit was severely overcharged from the factory and refrigerant pressure was way to high. After I corrected this issue, energy consumption dropped quite bit as would be expected with lower compressor high side pressure.

The other issue I discovered after extensive electrical and heat output testing was that the COP is based on Real Power consumption not Apparent Power. That's fine if the power is coming from your utility company and they only charge for Real Power but when operating on a solar system the the PV array and inverter have to deliver Apparent Power which lowers the COP significantly. I may try to correct the PF with an appropriate capacitor. Seems like there are some online PF correction calculators, curious if they are any good.

Bottom line: I wouldn't purchase a product from them again. The Pool Heat Pump was almost double the price of a similar sized RayPack.
 
All I can do is warn everyone here away from Micoe heat pumps, wherever in the world you are.

I've figured out a number of problems. First, its control of the three-way valve (DHW or hydronic) is backward from others, so I had to replumb the 1" lines, swapping the roles of DHW and hydronic. This is a Euro valve so requires 230vAC, so I send it L1 and L2 to blue and brown. Black is the control, so it needs connected to its opposite (L1 or L2, depending on how the outside is wired. Bottom line: now the infernal heat pump appropriately switches the valve according to whether I select DHW or hydronic, or both.

I actually got the damned thing to heat the house for several days in hydronic mode, after purging tiny bits of air using scores of gallons of water. But the need for a shower became intense. I switched it to DHW and oh, I heard air. Purged and purged and purged, but it still faults on 'water flow' switch.

It is hyper-sensitive to air in the system and faults. It has an air purge, and I have an air purge, but they're not enough. Either the cheap-arse pump can not prime when a few bubbles, or the flow switch is badly located.

I know that some here are DIYers, but I am a developer and am the final say in tech support for all aspects of building houses with the most advanced techs -- seismic-safe, non-combustible, exceptionally energy efficient. I am ultimately responsible for everything in my business, because I do not shuck that responsibility as so many weaklings do. I have to be good, not least to keep good people and lead by expertise rather than fear.

For those who come here looking for an AWHP, I recommend Arctic Air. They are also made in Red China (yeees, it is still a Communist State) and can be had much cheaper than from Arctic.

And to Micoe: I am a developer. I am currently building out a 9 unit development of houses >$1m each. (Seattle) My own house is my test-bed. tsk tsk. Your tech support responds to me with "I see", and "millions of units work everywhere else", lol. IOW, 'too bad, so sad.' Bonus: I have developer friends. I will certainly apprise them of my findings.
I have looked into Arctic Air for a water to water project on Orcas Island, 12-200’ deep geothermal loops. Not cheep but from what I can tell decent equipment. I have been using SpacePak for air to water with good results.

1A9B08FE-16F5-45CB-AB16-DD92049BE61A.jpeg
 
Yoikes, BentleyJ, interesting feedback. I hope that was an outlier.

SpacePak and Arctic Heat Pumps are rebadged and ordered directly from Macon. https://www.macon.com.cn/ I purchased my 035ZA with a buffer tank for $1800 SHIPPED. Still comes with a 1 year warranty. Buffer tank is Mehot. Arctic Heat Pumps wanted damned near $8k, not to mention the USA import tax. (Let's not think about what's about to happen with that)

Simple BSPP fittings you can get on Ebay. The BSPP fittings go together with a rubber washer, like a garden hose. The nominal size is the same as US pipe, fractions of an inch. The 1/2" ones will take a shower head washer and the 3/4" ones take a garden hose washer. NPT male will go into BSPP female -- with a washer -- but not the other way around. I've had good luck though running a NPT threading die over a BSP male fitting to get it to go into a NPT female fitting. You still need the rubber washer to make a seal, and you need a swivel fitting. I've only seen those in 1/2". BSPP use a dowty washer[rubber bonded to metal] or solid copper. Metric pipe is British pipe, weird but true. A lot of Asian stuff uses metric threaded tube instead, whitworth threads are a nuisance to turn.

Beautiful pic, S.
 
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I finally seem to have purged all air and the system does not fault on water flow. However when set to DHW 50*C for a while, I set it to Heat, and it has the darling attribute of starting at 77*C and faulting on overpressure, even with Heat set to 50*. I suspicion this is because it monitors DHW at the buffer tank while in that mode, and heat temp at the unit output when in Heat mode, so when in DHW the output is always scalding. When in Heat mode the temp ultimately comes down to the setpoint. It really hurts itself and costs energy when in DHW mode.

I've also noticed that it is not actually changing the voltage on "terminal 11", keeping the three-way forever on DHW. I should mention that what is -labelled- "terminal 11" on this unit is terminal 10 if you actually count the screws! What the f*ck?! So I measured the voltages on terminals 9-12 while changing the unit between heat and DHW — NONE OF THEM CHANGE IN ANY WAY in reaction to the change in mode. There is no way that this heat pump can automatically switch the three-way valve, with this firmware.

I complained to Micoe about this and asked for a firmware update, and this is when I was told that "millions of units are working fine worldwide." Bilgewater. Road apples.

So I can have heat… or I can have hot water and fault on high (refrigerant) pressure. And I have to switch them manually. What a terrible, unusable heat pump. Shame on Micoe.
 
That sucks, I’m hoping there are no issues with this SpacePak unit.

2D19567F-E6EE-4AB2-B5D2-56D584F96ED6.jpeg45BEDA14-B2F9-4536-86A0-FB68239A9282.jpeg
 

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