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Mini split for "Refercan" 40' shipping container

sharpfork

New Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2024
Messages
21
Location
Detroit US
Howdy!

I just picked up a 40' refrigerated "refer-can" shipping container and would like to add a minisplit for temperature control. I'm looking for reccomendations.
Google tells me the R value of the insulation is between 20-30. The square footage is 300 sq ft. it is in central Michigan.

I'll have my 2x grid tied 6000xp's and EG4 48V Indoor 280Ah WallMount Battery in the container and could theoretically power it via 240v, 120v AC, or 48v DC.

  • I'd like high efficiency.
  • I don't expect the big doors to be opened super often. We'll put a man door in for typical access
  • a dehumidifier function would be helpful
  • if there is a way to exchange fresh air that would be cool. I'm guessing this is a different device like a HVR or window
I'm thrifty but I'd like something that will last a while.

Thanks!
 
From a simple box heat loss analysis:

R20 all the way around.

8x8x40' shipping container.

A 45°F delta would require 3100BTU/h to maintain, i.e.,

If it's 120°F outside, and you want to maintain 75°F inside, you need 3100BTU/h.

This does assume the container is in the shade or at least painted gloss white... 😁
 
From a simple box heat loss analysis:

R20 all the way around.

8x8x40' shipping container.

A 45°F delta would require 3100BTU/h to maintain, i.e.,

If it's 120°F outside, and you want to maintain 75°F inside, you need 3100BTU/h.

This does assume the container is in the shade or at least painted gloss white... 😁
Thanks!

Any recommendations on units?

Here are a few pics:
1726683864092.png
1726683898387.png
 
Are you going to insulate it? Even if you go for a solar powered AC system, insulation has got to help with wear and tear on the unit since it won't have to work as hard to keep the interior cool.
 
Not sure about reefer containers, but regular ones need roofs to keep rainwater from puddling on the top and rusting them out. In your case, that would add additional shading and probably room for some (more?) solar panels.
 
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Are you going to insulate it? Even if you go for a solar powered AC system, insulation has got to help with wear and tear on the unit since it won't have to work as hard to keep the interior cool.
Ummm... it's a reefer can, it's already insulated really well.

@sharpfork : What did you end up doing with the existing cooling unit?
 
Not sure about reefer containers, but regular ones need roofs to keep rainwater from puddling on the top and rusting them out. In your case, that would add additional shading and probably room for some (more?) solar panels.
I'll eventuiallly put a roof on it, not until spring. Not planning on putting panels up there but has been in the back of my mind.
 
Good deal on a high-cube insulated conex. It might benefit from about 6” or more underneath so it gets more air. Will extend the floor life with some circulation.

I wonder if a small dual hose portable unit would be enough?

White Henry’s elastomeric paint on the roof will help keep it cool.
 
I bet a 9k mini-split would work great. I put a 12k in my 2 car garage when the big door stays closed for an hour it's colder in there then my house. Even with one 6000xp inverter running full blast it easily keeps the room cold. You could add a fan to circulate the air better.
 
Howdy!

I just picked up a 40' refrigerated "refer-can" shipping container and would like to add a minisplit for temperature control. I'm looking for reccomendations.
Google tells me the R value of the insulation is between 20-30. The square footage is 300 sq ft. it is in central Michigan.

I'll have my 2x grid tied 6000xp's and EG4 48V Indoor 280Ah WallMount Battery in the container and could theoretically power it via 240v, 120v AC, or 48v DC.

  • I'd like high efficiency.
  • I don't expect the big doors to be opened super often. We'll put a man door in for typical access
  • a dehumidifier function would be helpful
  • if there is a way to exchange fresh air that would be cool. I'm guessing this is a different device like a HVR or window
I'm thrifty but I'd like something that will last a while.

Thanks!
I dunno if you got the answers you needed or moved on. But I live in a 40 ft reefer can, and I cool and heat it with a 9000btu 240v minisplit that draws like 15 amps at least in the manual. With a person and 2 cats, and fish, and a chihuahua, I have some insight.

Humidiy, I picked up a 99 dollar compressor dehumidifier on Amazon, and I pretty much need to run it all year if I want the humidity low. It can go up to the 80s, or I have to turn drying mode on, on the mini split, then it gets super damn cold.

It can however keep me at 75 all summer with Arizona sun beating down on it with no shade, long wall facing the rising and setting sun.

It's easy for me to heat during my winters with the same mini split. You will have opposite winters, but it should still be relatively easy to heat. The roof, and floors are insulated.

My brand I got was midea, advertised as seer 40, now its like a seer2 26 or 29 or something.

I am doing 2 more cans, and I am putting a solar hybrid 12k unit on 1, and the other will be divided in half, so it will get 2 9k units.

If you aren't living in it, the built in de-humidification of the mini split would probably be sufficient.



I didn't really make to many more videos. But I ran electrical in conduit on the walls, and I put the fresh water plumbing under the raised T-Floor, then put osb then plywood on that before finished floor of lifeproof click lock vinyl. Had to double the sub flooring stuff to accomodate for the tile, and cement board. Also there is a dip behind where the reefer unit has a shroud and blows the air down, you have to build that levelw ith the 2 floor, but I recommend if you plan to live in it and put in plumbing, to maybe raise the whole floor thickness of 2x4 above the T-floor, enough to better accommodate installing plumbing with less hassle.

Paid 8k few years ago for one, current price, I got them for 6700 each. But no ports in AZ.

I got most the stuff to build it out at a large auction dealer with home depot returns on vanities, tubs, flooring, etc. As long as you have more patience and can kill time waiting on deals. Or if you want something specific, I go for it, and not wait for whatever the wind blows.
 
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If you are having problems with humidity inside, you probably want fewer BTUs rather than more. The A/C needs to run long enough to condense the water out of the air. If it cools too fast, it stops at the set temperature without having time to remove water.
 
I installed Mr. Cool DIY in my house, we have two outdoor 27k BTU compressor units and six indoor head units that are either 9k or 12k.

In my experience a 9k unit would work fine for a 300sq foot space, as long as it was well insulated. A 12k unit should also work fine.

At my house, and at least with my units, a single 12k unit uses about 1,200 watts when running and it's actively heating or cooling. A 9k unit I believe uses around a 1,000 watts with mine, maybe a little less.

You can buy a complete kit from Mr. Cool for $1800, their premium DIY kit. Or the slightly lower SEER 9k version for $1200. Completely do it yourself, no need for vacuum or special tools to work on copper lines.


 
If you are having problems with humidity inside, you probably want fewer BTUs rather than more. The A/C needs to run long enough to condense the water out of the air. If it cools too fast, it stops at the set temperature without having time to remove water.
Good to know. However, I think running this dehumidifier at 125 watts probably consumes less power than running a smaller a/c longer to take longer to cool so it can dry the air more.

I haven't tested it, that's just what my brain tells me.
 
Good to know. However, I think running this dehumidifier at 125 watts probably consumes less power than running a smaller a/c longer to take longer to cool so it can dry the air more.

I haven't tested it, that's just what my brain tells me.
Dehumidifier will add heat that the A/C will have to use energy to remove.
 
Dehumidifier will add heat that the A/C will have to use energy to remove.
Yep. But the net gain is lower humidity and temp where I want it. If I turn on a light, it also adds heat that the a/c has to remove. But then I can see.

If I turn on my air fryer, it adds heat that my a/c has to remove, but then I can cook.
 
Your mini split will already be dehumidifying as part of its cooling process. Not much need for a second piece of equipment that does the same thing while consuming power and adding heat load to the aircon.
Ok, you guys can keep telling me how it works.

Theory crafting is fine, but i'm living it and giving real world evidence of my situation, and I don't know why people want to argue with me over this.

Yes, the mini split removes moisture. I have 9k btu, undersized, still humidity climbs up to 70 in middle of summer within arid Arizona ac set to 72 because i live in a steel box, which is vapor impermeable.

So throw out what you think you know about humidity control in a normal building thay can breathe far more.
 
Aaahhhh, that makes more sense then.

I do the HVAC on ships going to Guam, talk about a steel box and humidity! Even my air handlers can keep the humidity around 60% when it's up at 100% outside, but I keep about 2psi of positive case pressure on the house so I have to let in some wet air. If I could get the house to 100% pure re-circ I coukd really dry this place out even in the tropics, but that's only theory. 😉

I keep telling the boss we should pump my drain lines into the potable tanks, we'd have them topped up every day! They keep whining about Legioneers Disease and bullshit like that. 😜
 
still humidity climbs up to 70 in middle of summer
LOL, 70% is a dry day in Florida. We love those days!

But I understand the situation. Your respiration is the #1 cause of humidity in your box. Well, that and the Chihuahua. The insulation in the can is letting the mini split work less than it would if the can had less insulation. Your dehumidifier is the best answer in this situation.
 
LOL, 70% is a dry day in Florida. We love those days!

But I understand the situation. Your respiration is the #1 cause of humidity in your box. Well, that and the Chihuahua. The insulation in the can is letting the mini split work less than it would if the can had less insulation. Your dehumidifier is the best answer in this situation.
Wouldn’t an electrical resistance heater work as well?
 
Wouldn’t an electrical resistance heater work as well?
That would lower the relative humidity by raising temperature, but it would not lower the dew point. The goal is to remove water from the air so you lower the dew point (and thus the relative humidity at the same temperature).

My experience in Arizona is that the air generally has so little water that it doesn't get that hot even though the things in direct sunshine do. You can stand in the shade and stay cool. Maybe just opening the window while the A/C is on might help.
 

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