Mini Split on Solar

[OffGridInTheCity]

I have this unit on the way:

Pioneer® Diamante Ultra 12,000 BTU 22 SEER Wi-Fi Ductless Mini-Split Inverter++ Air Conditioner Heat Pump Full Set with 16 Ft. Kit - 110/120V

Summary Ultra High Efficiency Diamante Ultra Ductless Mini Split Heat Pump System Cooling capacity: 12,000 BTU/H with 22 SEER/12.5 EER efficiency Heating capacity: 12,000 BTU/H with 10 HSPF/3.5 COP efficiency Voltage: 110/120V, 60Hz, 1Ph High Wall Mounted Air Conditioning & Heating System...

www.highseer.com

Along with 2,600W~ of solar or so. My first battery will be 6,720Wh and I have a 3000W generator as a backup.

My first task will be to install an autostart for the generator so it can cycle on as needed, the second will be doubling the bank (13,440Wh)

They rate it at 690W.. so I should be able to run it for 5-6 hours with no solar input, accounting for other loads and inversion losses, 80% lithium SoC.

I *should* be able to run it in full sun just off solar, the doubling of the bank should get be through the night without the generator.

Long term I may triple or quad the bank. Just depends on my actual usage and how well it fares.

I have a diesel heater for very cold nights.

I believe you're on the right track! As you say, the battery is too small for overnight but... from my experience if you can go low at night - say 60F/16C - the power used by the mini-split will be 'much less' (maybe 1/3) compared to the power of keeping 75F/24C all thru the night. It's a matter of the difference between indoor and outdoor and how low outdoor goes - so I can't predict your circumstance specifically. But, if you can stand sleeping really cold you might get thru the night on the beginning battery until you can beef it up.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

seen the line sets blow off at 550psi when they are not secured and the flair on the soft copper fails.

That’s often because the tubing is not secured by hard brackets, leaving the flare to experience stress and work hardening.

 

[wmgeorge]

Having worked commercial HVAC/R for over 30 years, I can tell you right now R410a has no business being in line sets with flare connections. The original mini splits had R22 and that was fine, but the much higher pressure R410a needs silver or Sil phos brazed connections. When I installed mine I was surprised at the use of flares, I expected brazed connections and was prepared to do so.

You can make a perfect flare, have zero leaks but the expansion and contraction of those fittings during the heating and cooling cycles will cause leaks over time. I used blue Loctite on the threads to help prevent that. My only leak was from a split flare on the liquid line and I replaced that by using heavier grade copper tube.

 

[S Davis]

The first time I did a 600psi pressure test there was definitely a pucker factor.

 

[bedpan]

I had no idea such pressures existed in the AC world.. Scary and cool...

 

[wmgeorge]

I have silver and Sil Phos brazed lines for medical gas lines. Generally flowed very low pressure dry nitrogen to prevent scaling inside the lines from the high temperature.

 

[Moldy1]

This was the post I was looking for. Ive cross posted to another but here is the link. Looking for a split phase inverter may have to go with a Growatt x2 @ 3k watts for my planned HP to go off grid totally solar.

9000 BTU Mini Split Heat Pump Hi SEER Ratings: Innovair vs LG vs Mitsu (etc) Worth it?

Hello : Currently Carrier has the most efficient mini split on the plant a available for install with a great warranty. Ready for this 42 seer. I think it heats down to -37° with out electric heating coils operating. But it is pricey and has To be installed by there certified...

diysolarforum.com

Note; all specifications are carefully taken from the perspective manu's service manuals, keeping in mind CoP performance is highly detailed with dry and wet temps.

The specs on the Carrier Infinity series are:
9k BTU --> 38MPRA (outdoor) & 40MPHAQ09 indoor $2599 - SEER 42 / EER 15 / HSPF 15 c/w variable CoP.
12K BTU = $2699
208/230 v fan & motor specs on pg 14 list the max load demand at:
(input) 137 watts for both 9K & 12K BTU units.
I also see 115 watts (W) for both on the outdoor fan motor
as well as 137 (W). on the indoor high wall unit, consumption on pg 11 indicates 60 (W) for both 9 & 12 BTU units.
Interesting is "Range of Amps" at 0.023 for both units

Gree Saphire sereies
SAP09HP230V1A ($2159) --> SEER 38 / EER 16.5 / HSPF 15
Cooling Power input input 540 (50~1400 watts)
Heating Power input 590(200~1500)
rated input is 1500 wattts Rated current is 6.2 A

Mitsubishi MUZ series MUZ-FH09NA --> SEER 30.5 / EER 16.1 / HSPF (NA:13.5 / NAH:12.5) Cooling Power consumption rated (min~max) 560(100~1000) Watts / Heating Power consumption rated (min~max) 710(110~1470) Watts as noted from pg 4 section 3.

All above units are 1ph @ 220v , I would love to put one of these above units on a dedicated off grid system, trying to spec out a cheap split phase system.

 

[ericfx1984]

I run a 12,000 BTU mini split in my 34 ft RV... Tell you what I thought was enough almost does the trick but it's not enough

 

[Seven30]

I have a 9000 BTU Senville mini-split on a 7 x 14 cargo trailer -> camper trailer conversion - e.g. 98sq ft. The trailer is insulated all-around (including floor and tailgate) with 1" Silverboard = R5 and no windows. The mini-split has soft start and maxes out at 1100w.

It uses ~5kwh/24hrs to keep 75F/24C in the moderate range of 45F/7C low and 95F/35C high. The most extreme I've used it so far was 25F/-4C low overnight and power went up to 12-15kwh/24hrs.

My best advice is to INSULATE and it will reduce power. I had no idea when I did the conversion, but next time I'll do as much insulation as I can - 2" / R10 is better than R5 and I'd even think about trying for 8ft wide / R40! instead of 7ft wide.

A bit old post but Im testing a 9k Mr Cool in a 35 Grayhound in 100+ Texas heat. I find here that NOTHING matters more than insulation. In fact, insulation is by far a bigger factor than any SEER/Solar configuration. This is such a big deal that Ive started looking looking at these so called vacuum panels which are just hollow core material with thin skins.

Not sure if this forum is be the right place for this type of discussion but its so integral to mobile energy design it seems it may be ok.
FYI a one inch thick "vaccum panel" is R50! I just wonder if they can be DIY-ed since we have such odd shapes to deal with.

 

[Seven30]

Having worked commercial HVAC/R for over 30 years, I can tell you right now R410a has no business being in line sets with flare connections. The original mini splits had R22 and that was fine, but the much higher pressure R410a needs silver or Sil phos brazed connections. When I installed mine I was surprised at the use of flares, I expected brazed connections and was prepared to do so.

You can make a perfect flare, have zero leaks but the expansion and contraction of those fittings during the heating and cooling cycles will cause leaks over time. I used blue Loctite on the threads to help prevent that. My only leak was from a split flare on the liquid line and I replaced that by using heavier grade copper tube.

What about the flare sealants? Will these improve the situation?

 

[curiouscarbon]

A bit old post but Im testing a 9k Mr Cool in a 35 Grayhound in 100+ Texas heat. I find here that NOTHING matters more than insulation. In fact, insulation is by far a bigger factor than any SEER/Solar configuration. This is such a big deal that Ive started looking looking at these so called vacuum panels which are just hollow core material with thin skins.

Not sure if this forum is be the right place for this type of discussion but its so integral to mobile energy design it seems it may be ok.
FYI a one inch thick "vaccum panel" is R50! I just wonder if they can be DIY-ed since we have such odd shapes to deal with.

i have experimented a bit with vacuum insulated panels for refrigerators to increase the insulation (of course while keeping the exhaust type parts clear)

panasonic makes some in various sizes, that's the kind i am playing with.

they work pretty well but are fragile to puncture. so adhesive backed neoprene and hot melt glue are two types of supporting material i have used.

good luck!

 

[Seven30]

Thanks on the panels. Im guessing they are harder to make than it would appear since Vans/Buses have such limited insulation area.

Some casual searching has not turned up much in the way of DIY VIPs.

 

[jberger]

Oops, mispost

 

[Bluedog225]

A bit old post but Im testing a 9k Mr Cool in a 35 Grayhound in 100+ Texas heat. I find here that NOTHING matters more than insulation. In fact, insulation is by far a bigger factor than any SEER/Solar configuration. This is such a big deal that Ive started looking looking at these so called vacuum panels which are just hollow core material with thin skins.

Not sure if this forum is be the right place for this type of discussion but its so integral to mobile energy design it seems it may be ok.
FYI a one inch thick "vaccum panel" is R50! I just wonder if they can be DIY-ed since we have such odd shapes to deal with.

I bet those are cheap. Do you recall the pricing?

 

[RV10flyer]

This was the post I was looking for. Ive cross posted to another but here is the link. Looking for a split phase inverter may have to go with a Growatt x2 @ 3k watts for my planned HP to go off grid totally solar.

9000 BTU Mini Split Heat Pump Hi SEER Ratings: Innovair vs LG vs Mitsu (etc) Worth it?

Hello : Currently Carrier has the most efficient mini split on the plant a available for install with a great warranty. Ready for this 42 seer. I think it heats down to -37° with out electric heating coils operating. But it is pricey and has To be installed by there certified...

diysolarforum.com

Note; all specifications are carefully taken from the perspective manu's service manuals, keeping in mind CoP performance is highly detailed with dry and wet temps.

The specs on the Carrier Infinity series are:
9k BTU --> 38MPRA (outdoor) & 40MPHAQ09 indoor $2599 - SEER 42 / EER 15 / HSPF 15 c/w variable CoP.
12K BTU = $2699
208/230 v fan & motor specs on pg 14 list the max load demand at:
(input) 137 watts for both 9K & 12K BTU units.
I also see 115 watts (W) for both on the outdoor fan motor
as well as 137 (W). on the indoor high wall unit, consumption on pg 11 indicates 60 (W) for both 9 & 12 BTU units.
Interesting is "Range of Amps" at 0.023 for both units

Gree Saphire sereies
SAP09HP230V1A ($2159) --> SEER 38 / EER 16.5 / HSPF 15
Cooling Power input input 540 (50~1400 watts)
Heating Power input 590(200~1500)
rated input is 1500 wattts Rated current is 6.2 A

Mitsubishi MUZ series MUZ-FH09NA --> SEER 30.5 / EER 16.1 / HSPF (NA:13.5 / NAH:12.5) Cooling Power consumption rated (min~max) 560(100~1000) Watts / Heating Power consumption rated (min~max) 710(110~1470) Watts as noted from pg 4 section 3.

All above units are 1ph @ 220v , I would love to put one of these above units on a dedicated off grid system, trying to spec out a cheap split phase system.

Just FYI...My Fujitsu 9K 33 SEER power shed mini split hp typ consumes 2.9-3.7A at 240V in cool mode and up to 7.0A at 240V in heat mode.

 

[Seven30]

I bet those are cheap. Do you recall the pricing?

Close to 1k about a 1 1/2 years ago IIRC. Currently the 35 foot coach is broadside to the full sun. I made bubble wrap window covers for most windows. 9k could handle it except for roof insulation. The old insulation provides little protection. Having roof solar panels would help a lot though which is an added benefit for hot climates. But if AC run time was reduced from 12 hours to 8 how much SEER is that worth?

 

[Bluedog225]

Sorry. I meant the vacuum panels. I looked a bit but didn’t find prices.

 

[curiouscarbon]

Sorry. I meant the vacuum panels. I looked a bit but didn’t find prices.

if you mean off the shelf ones, this is where i sourced mine from. they are not exactly cheap, but also not like space engine expensive: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panasonic-industrial-devices-fbd/TZB9850E/9558510 (23.40" L x 22.40" W x 0.59" H) 37 usd at time of page load

scroll down and click on "u-vacua" to see the entire list. for some reason linking that page does not work

i am not affiliated with any of it, the technology is just darn cool and interesting to me, and is a way of getting good performance from DIY fridge, and mini split is basically a human fridge, heh

 

[Seven30]

Sorry. I meant the vacuum panels. I looked a bit but didn’t find prices.

The Alibaba site has some prices. Not sure if I would want to bury one of those in a wall or roof though.

 

[wmgeorge]

What about the flare sealants? Will these improve the situation?

No Idea but I did use something sold for that purpose my concern was temperature changes going from heat to cool the flare nuts Will loosen. Thats the reason for the Loctite on the flare Threads.