Minimizing Consumption

[MrNatural22]

With the single digit humidity and heat wave careening thru the SW right now (105deg today and we are at 4200ft elev.?)
Evap coolers are working very well.
But We now have ac though. Newer more efficient ac units are actually cheaper to run than swamp boxes and use no precious H2O. Evap coolers use a large amount of water ? (Major drought right now)

And during the higher humidity desert monsoon season (?) evap cooling ceases to cool-anything over 25% relative humidity.

Plus being from this area since birth
I do not miss the PITA yearly maintenance
That are a required part of running evap coolers especially in hard water areas.
Pads, pumps, h20 spider unclogging, scraping, painting and coating the pan every year.
A whole house fan is a no brainer and works well. ?

 

[FilterGuy]

The following is a cut-paste from this thread about whole house sensors:

FilterGuy said:
One thing it did was identified 165W of Always on.... and that added up to something like 42% of my total usage. I was able to reduce that to around 125W and am working on reducing it more.

svetz said:
If you could post what it was and what you did in Minimizing Consumption it would be gold for the rest us.
Or perhaps start a new thread more specific for Watt-Huning, even learning techniques people use would be useful.

It was a lot of little things.....

* I unplugged a bunch of USB chargers that I plugged in over the years but never use.
* I found an Ethernet switch that only had one device hooked to it.... I just hooked the device directly to the main and unplugged the switch
* I had a WiFi router that I had installed as a VPN so I could VPN in from outside the country..... I unplugged it and will only plug it in when I am traveling.
* It turns out my Comcast Ethernet Modem was an older, less efficient model. Comcast sent me a new one that runs faster *and* uses lower power (and did not charge me!!)
* The big change was with my two entertainment centers.... in particular the Comcast DVR boxes.

- The comcast DVR boxes are power hogs. They are full-on Linux computers running 24-7. I did a bit of research and found out that the newer 4K DVR is a bit more efficient so I had comcast send me the new one even though I don't have a 4K TV. (They did not charge me for it either)​

- The new DVR is not as bad as the old one, but it is still a hog. I wanted to set it up to turn on when I turn the TV on, but it takes about 5 minutes to boot up so that was not really an option. I only watch TV in the evening so I put the DVR on a smart plug that has a timer function that turns it on in the late afternoon and off late at night. That way it is ready when I need it but not sucking power 24-7.​

Since I had the switched plug, I put my whole entertainment center on it. That way the TV, DVD, Stereo, Nvidia Shield, Harmony Remote, etc all turn off and stop sucking power. (The Nvidia shield is another hog)​

Next step: I have a power plug that can take a low voltage signal to turn on or off the plug. I am going to plug my printer and monitor into it and then drive the signal with the USB from my computer. That way the monitor and printer is only turned on when the PC is on.

There are things I could unplug when not in use, but it starts to be a convenience trade-off that I am not willing to make because with my solar and net-metering plan I am only paying the ~$10 minimum the utility requires. Additional power reduction does not really save me $$.

The whole reason I am doing this is that next year they will be changing the net-metering plan and I will be paying a lot more. I am thinking of adding batteries and doing peak shaving, but the first step is to reduce usage.

As an aside: When researching the DVR power hogs I found a couple articles that said the ISVs, Cable companies and Satellite companies don't really try to reduce the power of the equipment because there is no demand to. If you consider the number of DVRs and Modems out there, you realize that there is a huge waste of energy. I am not a fan of government sticking their nose into private business, but this is an area where some carefully crafted incentives might be a good idea.

 

[svetz]

Great job! So how did you hunt all these down?

...The new DVR is not as bad as the old one, but it is still a hog.

I cut the cable, went IP. Saving power was a bonus. I started out with Sling, but the wife watched only watched a few cooking shows that got discontinued and the SciFi shows that were on it I liked went to Prime or Netflix. So, I finally ditched Sling too. Now I have Netflix, Prime, TV OTA IP, and a few apps (e.g., cracker) loaded into the fire stick. Neither of us actually watch that much TV, so might cut some more. As the FireStick is a very low wattage (2 watts) dongle Android computer, I've been playing at loading some apps into it for solar, seems to work.

... I have a power plug ...going to plug my printer ... into it

Be careful on that one, a lot of them get messed up as the ink dries if the power isn't turned off gracefully.

 

[FilterGuy]

I cut the cable, went IP.

I want to do that too..... but the boss won't let me. ?

Be careful on that one, a lot of them get messed up as the ink dries if the power isn't turned off gracefully.

Yes, the print head has to be 'parked'

 

[Baughb]

Got rid of cable box and went Internet only. Half price

 

[rhino]

Ditch the Desktop​

Instead of getting a desktop computer, invest your money into a laptop. It will be more convenient and energy-efficient.

There's an interesting twist on this with regard to Apple portables. The M1 Macs are considerably more efficient than the Intel based ones. I have both 16" Macbook Pro with 32GB ram and a M1 Macbook Air with 8GB of ram for work. The M1 Macbook Air feels just as fast if not faster then the $3k Macbook Pro, has no internal fan, does not get hot, and uses considerably less energy than the Macbook Pro. The new M1 iMacs are also considerably more efficient considering how much thinner they are due to lack of need to handle all the waste heat the Intel CPUs were generating.

 

[curiouscarbon]

M1 Macs are considerably more efficient than the Intel based ones.

Confirmed the m1 apple products with Apple Silicon use profoundly less power at idle and under load.

I’ve tested the m1 mac mini, m1 imac and m1 laptop and they all are so efficient that it’s hard to touch and check for heat to determine if it’s on. On the laptop, my legs get cold, I’m so used to Intel Leg Warmer Inside.

Anyone who has the money for apple silicon mac, will enjoy a desktop class experience at better than mobile intel class power usage.

TL;DR New Apple Silicon Mac Desktops Are More Efficient Than That Intel Laptop You Were Considering.

 

[eXodus]

I’ve set up a lot of off grid systems. Almost invariably it’s cheaper to upgrade your power system than buy ultra energy efficient appliances.
Same goes for passivhaus type buildings, nice but a lot more expensive than upgrading your power system and using airconditioning to achieve your desired climate.

still doesn't hurt to buy the more efficient appliances when you are already replacing a broken one. Going out and replacing good working machines - not worth it. But when you are already shopping - it's a good idea looking at the label. I got high efficient water heater - for less cost then the less efficient one. Don't assume the more efficient appliance is more expensive

 

[eXodus]

Efficiency starts with the greatest waster of energy, which is the Structure itself. Heating & Cooling are the two heaviest, followed by the Big Appliances.

correct, from a total energy perspective - heating and cooling are the highest users.

The Big appliances - which draw a lot of power - are also falling in this categories:

Heat: Stove, Dryer, Washer, Microwave, Coffeemaker
Cool: Refrigerator, Freezer

All entertainment and lighting people upgrade are doing: yes please switch out your incandescent light bulbs, but otherwise the gains on this are fairly limited.

Putting on reflective Window film yields more results then buying a new fridge. - Better yet - upgrading to double glazed low-E Windows

Inverter A/C Units are amazingly efficient. Further get a heatpump next time the A/C has to be replaced - Single Stage A/C units should be phase out IMHO.

 

[svetz]

@Supervstech posted a video that's the same as the idea above on banking energy with cooling here.

While investigating something else, ran across the EPA calculator: … https://www3.epa.gov/carbon-footprint-calculator/

For my location, I put in a family of 4 with a $160/month bill.

If I turn the AC up 2 degrees, the carbon footprint goes down 324 lbs per year.

But if I replace 16 incandescent bulbs it goes down 635 lbs.

But if I put in Energy star windows I reduce my footprint by 8,880 lbs annually!

Seems like folks ought to be screaming about getting energy star windows or window films!
There is a federal tax credit for energy star windows: 10% of the cost, up to $500

 

[Supervstech]

Just keep in mind, energy star windows would only save that much energy if the existing windows are all leaky.
If you have quality storm windows, and the existing single pane windows are tight, and in good condition, new windows will make near zero difference. Not to mention, the windows won't improve, if they are improperly installed...
I find the overwhelmingly largest improvement in energy use savings comes from air sealing a home.
Leaky windows CERTAINLY leak a huge amount... but leaks into attic and crawlspace areas from wiring and plumbing penetrations make huge losses and are fed from HUGE stack effect forces.
Window leakage is only affected from wind.

 

[svetz]

Just keep in mind, energy star windows would only save that much energy if the existing windows are all leaky....

Just ran that analysis for me here. My conclusion is similar to yours, get a caulk gun and go air-leak hunting.

 

[Boondock Saint]

Cans of Touch & Foam in areas you"ll never access.

Spray the foam into grociery or garbage bags to fill voids you might need to access. The expandinf foam forms into the void inside the bag and doesn't stick to walls, pipes etc. In the future you cut away the foam in blocks, refill again in bag.

If you have a hole to fill, maybe drilled through a wall or floor, let the foam expand into a large mushroom shape. Once the foam is no longer tacky to the touch but still not cured, push in and collapse the expansion all the way down to the hole opening. This forms a super hard plug that's strong and long lasting.

.

 

[pvdude]

Interesting about the energy savings from better windows!
Our early 1980’s home has the cheap aluminum framed leakers.
I have thought about replacing them as a DIY project, doing a few at a time.
However, with the current construction mania here (Central Florida), home windows are 10x the price they were when I last priced them a few years ago. Not paying $1k per window, the leakers will have to remain in place.
No Winters here, so it’s just AC 9 months of the year.
I would be happy to adjust the thermostat to 80, from the current 78.
SWMBO vetoes that idea.

 

[Stepandwolf]

Replacing a dirty, clogged air filter with a clean one can lower your air conditioner’s energy consumption by 5-15 percent.

In summer, a breeze (e.g., a ceiling fan) allows you to raise the thermostat setting about 4 degrees without impacting your comfort (YMMV).

10 tips to reduce water heater costs: https://happyhiller.com/blog/water-heater-tips-save-money-energy/

Some people forget to switch their ceiling fans from winter to summer mode and vice versa.

 

[Stepandwolf]

Maybe not one for the California crowd, but this is one of my favorite "free energy" hacks. It's a huge amount of warm, humid air that would otherwise just go out the window.

I simply vented my dryer to the garage....the downside was, the humidity caused rust.

 

[Supervstech]

Some people forget to switch their ceiling fans from winter to summer mode and vice versa.

One thing about ceiling fans. Remember to turn them off when you aren’t in the room… they do not lower the temp of the room, they move air helping YOU feel cool. If you are not in the air path, they simply raise your power consumption, and add heat to the room.

 

[diyernh]

Cans of Touch & Foam in areas you"ll never access.

Spray the foam into grociery or garbage bags to fill voids you might need to access. The expandinf foam forms into the void inside the bag and doesn't stick to walls, pipes etc. In the future you cut away the foam in blocks, refill again in bag.

If you have a hole to fill, maybe drilled through a wall or floor, let the foam expand into a large mushroom shape. Once the foam is no longer tacky to the touch but still not cured, push in and collapse the expansion all the way down to the hole opening. This forms a super hard plug that's strong and long lasting.

.

Get the Pro gun. You can use one can for months. The regular cans with the tube don't last long. You'll save on foam, but the gun is a little more expensive. You can seal any small gap whenever you like without wasting the can.

Also, make yourself a blower door. You can either pull a vacuum and feel for the leaks on the inside, or pressurize and spray soapy water on the outside. I do this for campers. A house or cabin may need a larger blower and more blocking of openings.

Great Stuff Pro 14 Foam Dispensing Gun - - Amazon.com

Great Stuff Pro 14 Foam Dispensing Gun - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

[12VoltInstalls]

keep in mind, energy star windows would only save that much energy if the existing windows are all leaky.

There’s even more to it than that.

Here in the northern of the northeast ’energy star’ for this region VS standard Low-E/argon “saves” maybe a portion of 1% of heating BTUs, while in summer the heat retention increases cooling costs as much as 600% over the <1% heat savings.

Since much of the northeast doesn’t AC homes the ‘best’ window energy star ratings (that focus on heat season efficiency) sorta don’t make any sense since even in best case (break even, no AC) the discomfort level makes you want to not have the appropriate energy star rating because it doesn’t make sense economically or comfort-wise.

The other thing in cold regions with batt/“textile” insulation: if you don’t ventilate (a supposed necessary energy loss/cost) the moisture levels in the super-tight and air-sealed home will reduce the building envelope efficiency to a degree that on average (whatever that is) increased heating costs due to the conductivity of that moisture vapor are 3-5 times the cost of running the air exchanger systems.

Blower door and infrared scans of a house are extremely revealing. One year you seal all the ‘hot spots’ revealed by the scan, the next year an infrared scan shows the fiberglass insulation as ‘hot.’ So ya, seal the leaks, but insure you have “controlled” air exchanges to keep the house healthy AND have a decent return on your weathering efforts.

 

[svetz]

Here in the northern of the northeast ’energy star’ for this region VS standard Low-E/argon “saves” maybe a portion of 1% of heating BTUs, while in summer the heat retention increases cooling costs as much as 600% over the <1% heat savings.

Well criminy! Seems like we need some sort of "smart window" something with a thermostat that allows you to selectively adjust how much solar energy is let in / reflected and how much convection/conduction it allows.