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Mixing lead acid batteries

rsmith16384

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Dec 27, 2020
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I have a few of those everstart marine batteries in parallel currently about 2 years old.

I just acquired a used car battery, standard lead acid but visually smaller in size compared to the marine batteries

Would I add runtime to my application by adding it in parallel or loose runtime because smaller?

Also, I would appreciate any feedback anyone has on my current system:

 
Welcome to the forum.

You will add capacity, but consider that a used car battery may have very little capacity remaining, and starter batteries deteriorate rapidly with cycling.
 
Oh... I just realized you indicated "everstart Marine" batteries.

Keep your expectations low. They are cheap for a reason.
 
DINO - Deep-cycle In Name Only! I got 6 months out of my first system using 'deep cycle' marine batteries which appear to be nothing more than relabeled car starting batteries IMHO - deep cycle at your own risk. Maybe not a big deal if you're talking trolling motor on a boat, but it can be a big deal when your lights don't work and a warranty claim takes a week or more (if they even honor their warranty) and even then you are stuck with more dud batteries.
 
Thanks, I regret buying them, stuck with em now (till i use em up at least)

Looking at a 54Ah lithium for $500 as a replacement, but '20A max charge amps' im seeing in specs is a challenge im still trying to figure out, I will have up to 50A coming out of my charge controllers
 
There are cheaper batteries.


$570 for 100Ah.
 

"Current Goal: 4 hours runtime

Current Ability: 10 minutes runtime"

:ROFLMAO:

"410W Window AC unit"

"150F super-capacitor – This should keep the compressor from drawing so hard on the batteries, which I’ve seen peak to 1300w on startup, on battery alone to the Air Conditioning has tripped the inverter protection mechanism, I think supercapacitor would prevent that, and be a really good buffer because when things start up, the solar is not always charging the batteries because sometimes they are fully charged"

I figure 2000W starting, 5x rating. That is what I've measured for a similar size A/C.


I think your marine/staring batteries are perfect for supplying the starting surge. It will help if they're fully charged.
They should work fine for this application as long as they are never cycled.

"1500W Inverter – Pure Sine"

What is it's surge rating? Watts and seconds?

The inverter is high up on the rack. How long are the battery cables? What gauge?
At say 10V while starting A/C, 200A draw. At 100A per battery, much less than starting a car.

"(4) 100W Mono panels
(1) 20A Solar Charge Controller – MPPT (2 Panels)
(1) 20A Solar Charge Controller – PWM (2 Panels)
(1) 20A Solar Charge Controller – PWM (unused)"

When aimed directly at the sun, the 100W (STC) panels on MPPT should deliver 85W (PTC) each.
The panels on PWM only deliver their current, maybe 65W each.

When aimed directly at the sun you may get 300W.

Suggest more panels, say 1000W. You could get four, 250W panels for about $200 total.
Wired 2s2p with one string of two aimed at an earlier time of day and one string of two aimed later, you get flatter power production.
Instead of 850W (PTC) peak, more like 560W peak and a broader peak. You would need an MPPT SCC for at least 50A to capture all power produced, but 40A should be sufficient to keep up with the A/C. Need 100 Voc for these two panels in series.



The idea is to have PV operate A/C directly without draining battery. Arrange for AC to shut off as soon as battery needs to discharge to power it.
 
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