Mono vs. Poly Panels

[MerleC]

Hello,
New here and trying to better understand solar panels for a possible addition to my camper in the future.

I watched Will's youtube video comparing Monocrystalline and Polycrystalline panels. In that video it was a hazy/cloudy day and the Poly panels outperformed the Mono panels. I'm not strictly comparing watts/sq in. as I'm willing to cover a little more roof area for better performance. Were these results typical of Poly panels vs. Mono panels on a cloudy day?

To help me understand the overall performance throughout a day I would love to see comparisons between panels mounted flat vs. angled at the sun, sunny days vs. cloudy days, morning/evening sun vs. high noon sun. These comparisons would offer a better understanding of what I could expect in real life.

I'm currently weighing my options. Do I want a suitcase setup that I just set out on the ground/table and move throughout the day? The downside of that is limited storage to carry it around. Or do I mount a panel to the roof. Downside to this is that I have a popup and cable routing will be a challenge when cranking it up and down. Anyone out there have solar on the roof of a popup?

 

[TCgreg]

The advantage to poly is the price. The advantage to mono is the energy density, so if space is at a premium mono panels are smaller for the same wattage. In a mobile application and a small array a suitcase design can be a nice way to go. You may often find you can put your trailer in the shade and the panels in the sun. As you mention you can also move them as the sun moves for better performance.

If you opt for the roof I would go with mono as they will be smaller and lighter. The smaller size may allow you to keep them a little farther away from anything that might shade them like a roof vent.

 

[PHoganDive]

HInges need to be riveted not screwed, so you can open the panels as flat as possible. With a long hinge, you can alternate rivets, so the head of one fits in the unused hole of the opposite side when unfolding.

Most hinges are designed for countersunk screws so they can sit flush against each other.

 

[DIYportablegenerator]

 

[Rider]

Here's one that's 30" so you don't have to cut it. Apparently a stock item at the 'Depot:

National Hardware 2 in. x 30 in. Continuous Hinge N148-270 - The Home Depot

Whether for home, farm, builder or industrial customers, National has all the right hardware in the sizes and finishes you need. With over a century of service National is committed to maintaining the

www.homedepot.com

I just installed one of those on a small door. I used a counter-sink bit to taper the holes and used bevel screws. Completely flush.

 

[MerleC]

Thanks for the response guys. I'll probably be winterizing the camper this weekend so I'll see if I can find a good space to stash a suitcase system when folded up. That may be the route I end up going.

 

[rippysig]

I'm currently weighing my options. Do I want a suitcase setup that I just set out on the ground/table and move throughout the day? The downside of that is limited storage to carry it around. Or do I mount a panel to the roof. Downside to this is that I have a popup and cable routing will be a challenge when cranking it up and down. Anyone out there have solar on the roof of a popup?

I know this is an old thread, but I did want say something about cable routing from the roof of the popup for others who find this. It's not very complicated at all. Mine has an air conditioner from the factory. I ran my wire next to the air con wire. It's slightly loose when it's popped up and it pushes inside the popup when it is cranked down. The real key is to make sure you are not using rigid wiring and anchor the wire well at the top and the bottom. I dare say that the wiring was much easier to handle on my popup than it was on my old motorhome.