More DALY smart BMS issues

[Just John]

Thanks for clarifying.
So do they need to on permanent short between 6 and 8 for the BMS to start or just a quick short?
I tried with tiny screw-drivers but it did not work. I live in Sweden and Amazon is not so fast here :-(
When I measure from my most positive to my most negative i have 26,7V and when I measure from my most positive to P- i have 26,3V .
I have also measured all my balance leads and they show 3,33V all of them.

No, just a momentary short, I am not sure what happens with a permanent short.
I don't know if waking up the BMS is your problem, but it is certainly worth a try if you can't connect via bluetooth.

 

[Javilander]

Did anybody could ever make the switches "charge" and "discharge" work? I already tried two Dalys and none of them work with the app's switches.
Daly official documentation is pretty poor in my opinion. For example, I found out that the Dalys don't like to have any discharge device connected at the time of waking up. I have found out just by coincidence, unplugging the shunt monitor before proceeding to the wake up pins short. If you have a shunt, just plug it afterwards. Hope this is useful to anyone

 

[Just John]

Did anybody could ever make the switches "charge" and "discharge" work? I already tried two Dalys and none of them work with the app's switches.
Daly official documentation is pretty poor in my opinion. For example, I found out that the Dalys don't like to have any discharge device connected at the time of waking up. I have found out just by coincidence, unplugging the shunt monitor before proceeding to the wake up pins short. If you have a shunt, just plug it afterwards. Hope this is useful to anyone

If you are speaking of the green indicators on the first page when you open the app, I suggest that you try the switches on the last page of the settings.

 

[ultrakiev]

Did anybody could ever make the switches "charge" and "discharge" work? I already tried two Dalys and none of them work with the app's switches.
Daly official documentation is pretty poor in my opinion. For example, I found out that the Dalys don't like to have any discharge device connected at the time of waking up. I have found out just by coincidence, unplugging the shunt monitor before proceeding to the wake up pins short. If you have a shunt, just plug it afterwards. Hope this is useful to anyone

Works for me turning off. Turning on required breaker reset after turning on on the app, that's only one way I figured I can get it back powered.

 

[MnM]

Since the "LightBoard" was on it´s way I decided to wait for it to arrive. And today it did.
So I plugged it in and pushed the button. Nothing. Nothing lights up on the board and nothing happens when I push the button on the lightboard. So when I measure all the 8 leads I get 3,33V and that is the same as when I measure each cell. When I measure from the most positive to the most negative on the battery I get 26,7V. When I measure from the most positive to P- (with B- connected to the most negative on the battery) I get 26,3V. So when measuring over the BMS I seem to lose 0,4V. What can be wrong? Is there anything more I can test or di different?

 

[Just John]

Since the "LightBoard" was on it´s way I decided to wait for it to arrive. And today it did.
So I plugged it in and pushed the button. Nothing. Nothing lights up on the board and nothing happens when I push the button on the lightboard. So when I measure all the 8 leads I get 3,33V and that is the same as when I measure each cell. When I measure from the most positive to the most negative on the battery I get 26,7V. When I measure from the most positive to P- (with B- connected to the most negative on the battery) I get 26,3V. So when measuring over the BMS I seem to lose 0,4V. What can be wrong? Is there anything more I can test or di different?

Much as I hate to say it, you likely need to contact Daly.
Does it connect via PC or Bluetooth app?
Daly makes a lot of different models, but it should wake up if you push the button on the lightboard. Then you should be able to connect via bluetooth. I have not tried connecting via the PC/USB interface before activation.

 

[Deleted member 9967]

Much as I hate to say it, you likely need to contact Daly.
Does it connect via PC or Bluetooth app?
Daly makes a lot of different models, but it should wake up if you push the button on the lightboard. Then you should be able to connect via bluetooth. I have not tried connecting via the PC/USB interface before activation.

My Daly BMS is 0.020 volts different [higher in my case] from my multimeter.
Are the sense wires all the way in?
Also, make sure that the light board is pushed all the way in. I thought mine was but it went in another 1/8 inch [3 mm] because it is so undercut on my version.
Hope this helps.

 

[MnM]

Much as I hate to say it, you likely need to contact Daly.
Does it connect via PC or Bluetooth app?
Daly makes a lot of different models, but it should wake up if you push the button on the lightboard. Then you should be able to connect via bluetooth. I have not tried connecting via the PC/USB interface before activation.

I have contacted "Daly SmatBMS Store" and waiting for reply. I have tested both the PC and Bluetooth connection but I get nothing out of them. When I start the app (SmartBMS) I see nothing there. And when I start the PC software and connect the UART -> USB I get no life from the BMS either.

 

[MnM]

My Daly BMS is 0.020 volts different [higher in my case] from my multimeter.
Are the sense wires all the way in?
Also, make sure that the light board is pushed all the way in. I thought mine was but it went in another 1/8 inch [3 mm] because it is so undercut on my version.
Hope this helps.

I have looked again at the connections for both the temp-sense, the light-board and the Bluetooth (UART) and they are as far in as I can push them with a tiny screw-driver. And the balance-lead-connector is also tripple-checked.
I can also add that I did a "Conductivity Test" for all the leads. As done in this Video:

And that looks good as well.

 

[Just John]

I have contacted "Daly SmatBMS Store" and waiting for reply. I have tested both the PC and Bluetooth connection but I get nothing out of them. When I start the app (SmartBMS) I see nothing there. And when I start the PC software and connect the UART -> USB I get no life from the BMS either.

Yes, that sounds like a defective BMS. Daly customer service sucks, so be prepared for a problem. I hope you used a credit card, otherwise they have little incentive to replace it, and will try the "jump through hoops" until they hope you give up.

 

[MnM]

Yes, that sounds like a defective BMS. Daly customer service sucks, so be prepared for a problem. I hope you used a credit card, otherwise they have little incentive to replace it, and will try the "jump through hoops" until they hope you give up.

This is so sad. I ordered the BMS mid feb. and now waited for the Light-Board for another month. I saw that you also had a 24V 8s 250Amp Daly. But yours is called R32w-FL08. Mine is called R32w-GA29. Do you know what the last 4 letters/numbers are?

 

[Just John]

This is so sad. I ordered the BMS mid feb. and now waited for the Light-Board for another month. I saw that you also had a 24V 8s 250Amp Daly. But yours is called R32w-FL08. Mine is called R32w-GA29. Do you know what the last 4 letters/numbers are?

No, so far I haven't been able to figure out their model naming scheme. They really need to get their act together, simplify, and standardize, otherwise another vendor will come in and take their market share.

 

[Deleted member 9967]

I have looked again at the connections for both the temp-sense, the light-board and the Bluetooth (UART) and they are as far in as I can push them with a tiny screw-driver. And the balance-lead-connector is also tripple-checked.
I can also add that I did a "Conductivity Test" for all the leads. As done in this Video:

And that looks good as well.

The only methods I know of are the following.
Plug in the sense wires.
Short the bms at B- and P-.
Press the button on the light board.
If all of the wires work and they are fully pushed in then I don't know where to go from there sorry.
Maybe someone else knows a fourth way.

 

[Deleted member 9967]

Just a thought. But a guy named Steve makes Overkill. I joined his reddit for a while to watch him and he works tirelessly to help people.
Never seen that before on any of the products here on the forum or elsewhere.
I know it sucks but you might want to look into his stuff.

 

[MnM]

The only methods I know of are the following.
Plug in the sense wires.
Short the bms at B- and P-.
Press the button on the light board.
If all of the wires work and they are fully pushed in then I don't know where to go from there sorry.
Maybe someone else knows a fourth way.

Thanks for your input.
When you say "short the bms B- and P-" is the B- connected to the most negative pole of the battery-pack at that stage or is that irrelevant?

 

[MnM]

Just a thought. But a guy named Steve makes Overkill. I joined his reddit for a while to watch him and he works tirelessly to help people.
Never seen that before on any of the products here on the forum or elsewhere.
I know it sucks but you might want to look into his stuff.

I have read a lot of good things about Overkill and I have had a look at the BMS´s from Overkill.
The 24V 8s model can only handle 100Amp discharge though. The Daly that I have can handle 250Amp discharge.

 

[Deleted member 9967]

Thanks for your input.
When you say "short the bms B- and P-" is the B- connected to the most negative pole of the battery-pack at that stage or is that irrelevant?

It states on every BMS I have ever seen B- and also a P-.
If yours does not have that then I don't know what to say sorry.

EDIT: ALSO by short it out I mean like less than a second. Don't hold it there a long time.

 

[Deleted member 9967]

I have read a lot of good things about Overkill and I have had a look at the BMS´s from Overkill.
The 24V 8s model can only handle 100Amp discharge though. The Daly that I have can handle 250Amp discharge.

Ah ok. I did not know that. Maybe ask him if he can make a 250 amp one for you then.

 

[MnM]

It states on every BMS I have ever seen B- and also a P-.
If yours does not have that then I don't know what to say sorry.

EDIT: ALSO by short it out I mean like less than a second. Don't hold it there a long time.

Yes mine have B- and P- very clear printed on the cables.
My question was if it is necessary to have the B- connected to the battery most negative when the short is made?
Or does it have the same effect to just short B- and P- without the B- connected to the most negative on the battery?

 

[Deleted member 9967]

Yes mine have B- and P- very clear printed on the cables.
My question was if it is necessary to have the B- connected to the battery most negative when the short is made?
Or does it have the same effect to just short B- and P- without the B- connected to the most negative on the battery?

Well the sense wires won't work if everything is not set up and connected.
Also the BMS is useless if everything is not already setup.
At least this is how I have done it.
Lastly, if the B- is not connected. Then WHAT are you shorting out? If there is no power going through everything?

As for shorting out. I have always [and only] ever seen it done on the BMS itself.