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More DALY smart BMS issues

So, I’m back in my off-grid house to do some more testing with the BMS. The Beep-setting on the Multimeter did not do the trick for med. Just says OL and no beep.
So, I read thru the instructions one more time an in step 4 (the step after connecting balance-leads but before connecting B- to batter -) they want you to measure the resistance between the B-and P-. When I do that it I get 0,347 (picture). I am not convinced that I get a good/ok value. I have also taken a picture of the instruction. (The instruction says 0,0 Q-5Q.
What do you think? Is this a OK value?
I don't think they actually want you to measure the resistance, however like the diode or continuity setting (beep setting) it applies a small voltage to wake up the BMS.

I think you have a bad BMS, sorry.
 
Hi, sad to hear that you have problems as well.
When I check the Resistance I get 0,342. This is with the balance-leads connected to the BMS and the battery. So for me that looks good.
The problem with mine is that it will not "Activate". This is still what I hope at least. I will try and connect a 30V 2.5A Power Supply to the BMS this weekend and see if that will wake it up.
How did that turn out MnM? I'm still waiting for another replacement - my 3rd to arrive. My other Daly BMS on battery bank 1 is working great. But it is only 4 month in service now.
 
How did that turn out MnM? I'm still waiting for another replacement - my 3rd to arrive. My other Daly BMS on battery bank 1 is working great. But it is only 4 month in service now.
Not good. I can’t get it to activate/start. Have tried the beep-mode And the diode-mode. But it will not kick-start my BMS. I’m clueless now and I think that a new BMS is the only way out of this mess.

one more question: I know for a fact that I have the correct Voltage on all my balance leads and that they are in the correct order. I have measured them many times. Can I be 100% sure about that the connection is good if I have the right Voltage on each pin?
 
That is the diode test function and basically the same as touching P- to B-

As you have a light board and the port to connect it, this should not be a problem getting the BMS to turn on. Proper installation of balance harness, temp sensor installed, connect balance harness last and light board plugged in. Hit the button and it should turn on.

If it doesn't, then you have an installation problem such as poor connection. Could be balance harness or temp sensor.
Shorting leads did not work for me. nor did the light board button. nor did resistance check. nor did charging activate it. on my 8s 400a smart bms what did work was. install balance leads to battery including neg ontop of a short neg cable, plug balance lead into bms then use diode mode between leads. the bms activated and light board lit up. then connected b- to the pre installed neg cable. i tried every other method mentioned for hours for days and nothing worked. only diode mode on my 9v multi meter activated it. mine beeps when there is continuity also in diode mode and beeped when it activated. PITA of an activation method. DIODE mode puts a small voltage across the leads to activate the bms. shorting leads does not as there is no load its just connecting neg to neg and the mosfets and open with no continuity.
 
Shorting leads did not work for me. nor did the light board button. nor did resistance check. nor did charging activate it. on my 8s 400a smart bms what did work was. install balance leads to battery including neg ontop of a short neg cable, plug balance lead into bms then use diode mode between leads. the bms activated and light board lit up. then connected b- to the pre installed neg cable. i tried every other method mentioned for hours for days and nothing worked. only diode mode on my 9v multi meter activated it. mine beeps when there is continuity also in diode mode and beeped when it activated. PITA of an activation method. DIODE mode puts a small voltage across the leads to activate the bms. shorting leads does not as there is no load its just connecting neg to neg and the mosfets and open with no continuity.
Maybe I shouldn't assume. Yes, the leads must be hooked up, since they are what power the BMS. Without them, it's like flipping a light switch when the breaker is off. You must also have the temperature sensor plugged in.

I bet that now the lightboard pins being shorted will work as well.
 
Maybe I shouldn't assume. Yes, the leads must be hooked up, since they are what power the BMS. Without them, it's like flipping a light switch when the breaker is off. You must also have the temperature sensor plugged in.

I bet that now the lightboard pins being shorted will work as well.
yes temp sensor needs to be in also. before balance leads. don't know about the lightboard. the button does not seem to do anything.
 
yes temp sensor needs to be in also. before balance leads. don't know about the lightboard. the button does not seem to do anything.
Knowing Daly, they may have that connector serving another purpose on your model. They seem to change things at random, for no logical reason.

Some might also require a different firmware to use the lightboard, since I think they also use that connector for their touch screen display. That's what some people have reported, anyway.
 
Knowing Daly, they may have that connector serving another purpose on your model. They seem to change things at random, for no logical reason.

Some might also require a different firmware to use the lightboard, since I think they also use that connector for their touch screen display. That's what some people have reported, anyway.
Sounds logical. Hard to update the firmware if you can´t connect to the BMS though. There is another port as well on my model with four pins (I think). It is next to the UART port and it is not labled on my model. Do you have this port as well timmeh?
 
I followed their instructions and also got some resistance reading. In order to "wake-up" the BMS, I applied my Desktop DC Power source and it only took seconds before I could see the BMS in the App. Once in the app, I changed sleep mode setting from 3600ish to 65600 and have not had an issue since. I have no idea what the logic is behind measuring said resistance, but it did work that way.
 
I followed their instructions and also got some resistance reading. In order to "wake-up" the BMS, I applied my Desktop DC Power source and it only took seconds before I could see the BMS in the App. Once in the app, I changed sleep mode setting from 3600ish to 65600 and have not had an issue since. I have no idea what the logic is behind measuring said resistance, but it did work that way.
"I applied my Desktop DC Power source" - ereams65, can you explain how you pulled that off please? Your + & - from the Desktop's DC output? connected to the BMS (is that a USB 5v output then?) - also which BMS terminal did you connect the Plus to please?
Whatever you did i will try it on both my faulty units. You never know!!!

My orignal BMS units fired up on the Multimeter connection anyway. Having connected the Temp and then Balance harness.
 
Not good. I can’t get it to activate/start. Have tried the beep-mode And the diode-mode. But it will not kick-start my BMS. I’m clueless now and I think that a new BMS is the only way out of this mess.

one more question: I know for a fact that I have the correct Voltage on all my balance leads and that they are in the correct order. I have measured them many times. Can I be 100% sure about that the connection is good if I have the right Voltage on each pin?
With the BMS balance cable connected - but nothing else, set the meter to Diode / ohm Resistance reading. The Instructions state that there should be a read of 0 to 5 ohms. If read is circa 353.4 there is a fault. Both my dead units show this same reading. When set to continuity the reading is Zero and no buzzer alarm from meter.
The working unit shows up as in the Instructions with a reading of 2.2 - 4. plus on continuity you have the buzzer sounding.

Not sure how other meters work? but for continuity setting (select diode/Ohm symbol) i then press the Z/F button until the speaker symbol appears in my display. Hope that helps any DiY'er like myself, and fairly new to using meters?? at least my type meter!
 

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"I applied my Desktop DC Power source" - ereams65, can you explain how you pulled that off please? Your + & - from the Desktop's DC output? connected to the BMS (is that a USB 5v output then?) - also which BMS terminal did you connect the Plus to please?
Whatever you did i will try it on both my faulty units. You never know!!!

My orignal BMS units fired up on the Multimeter connection anyway. Having connected the Temp and then Balance harness.
Benchtop DC power supply...basically a CC/CV charger. So once the BMS is completely installed, give it voltage from that and it will wake up ?
 
Sounds logical. Hard to update the firmware if you can´t connect to the BMS though. There is another port as well on my model with four pins (I think). It is next to the UART port and it is not labled on my model. Do you have this port as well timmeh?
Benchtop DC power supply...basically a CC/CV charger. So once the BMS is completely installed, give it voltage from that and it will wake up ?
Daly have said to me pointing out the 3.65v high cell disconnect in my screen shot to discharge battery down and then try activate bms. sounds stupid to me since we top balance to 3.6v-3.65v then assemble the pack but i did notice at one point the high voltage default on my bms was 3.5v. may also be a bug/issue with getting the bms active.
 
If the default is 3.5v and you're sitting at 3.6v then that would keep the BMS is overcharge protection; i.e. "asleep"
 
With the BMS balance cable connected - but nothing else, set the meter to Diode / ohm Resistance reading. The Instructions state that there should be a read of 0 to 5 ohms. If read is circa 353.4 there is a fault. Both my dead units show this same reading. When set to continuity the reading is Zero and no buzzer alarm from meter.
The working unit shows up as in the Instructions with a reading of 2.2 - 4. plus on continuity you have the buzzer sounding.

Not sure how other meters work? but for continuity setting (select diode/Ohm symbol) i then press the Z/F button until the speaker symbol appears in my display. Hope that helps any DiY'er like myself, and fairly new to using meters?? at least my type meter!
When I measure B- to P- with only balance leads connected on the ohms setting I get the following, 0,334Mohm
Sounds a bit to much to me?!
 

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Greetings!
I have a 4s Deligreen 100a BMS and want to install reset button for 2pin plug.
Do I understand right that the cirrect type of connector is JST 2.0 PH?
 
Greetings!
I have a 4s Deligreen 100a BMS and want to install reset button for 2pin plug.
Do I understand right that the cirrect type of connector is JST 2.0 PH?
This is what I used (I'm sure you could find cheaper/better):
 
Greetings!
I have a 4s Deligreen 100a BMS and want to install reset button for 2pin plug.
Do I understand right that the cirrect type of connector is JST 2.0 PH?
The link I posted has a variation that is a button and the correct connector, pre-assembled, ready to go for you...I can look into the header type as well as another option
 
Ok, thanks! Would get one on Aliexpress as it is cheaper and faster option for my place
 
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