More DALY smart BMS issues

[Daddy Tanuki]

@Mountainlion


these 2

yeah my unit does not even have those two pins. took me 3 hour of farting around to get the BMS to unlock... I built the pack in my shop to top balance and test everything and then had no way to put charge power into the BMS to get it to turn on. I finally broke my spare inverter out and hooked it up to the battery pack and a small genset and still no joy. the inverter charger would not recognize the battery pack as the BMS refused to turn on jumping this that and the other had no effect. I finally use aligator clips to jump directly from the pack to the inverters +/- and got the inverter to turn on. then another 2 hours of playing with the jumper wire and resetting the inverter and I finally got the bms to turn on.... no clue how i did it but now it works what a PITA!

getting the battery sense to read the same as my multimeter took some time but after playing with the offsett I managed to get it close.. not close enough to be happy but next week when i come back to the cabin I will play with it some more. to dial it in... currently it is not hooked up to anything so I can fart around with it over the next couple of weeks. as I said...what a PITA. i hope its worth it. granted once in the OS I could set the parameters fairly easy, but that is assuming that we (DALY) and I are on the same sheet of music language wise... theire are doubts at time.

 

[Daddy Tanuki]

and it ran and charged for 2 hours and then shut down. can see the device, but no power in or out. WTF Over? do they even test their own designs?

 

[timmeh]

and it ran and charged for 2 hours and then shut down. can see the device, but no power in or out. WTF Over? do they even test their own designs?

i have had that. turn the output mosfet off then on. it shows on but its not actually on. it happens sometimes when changing settings or plying around with the bms. i can see it in the app etc but no powers coming out.

 

[Daddy Tanuki]

i have had that. turn the output mosfet off then on. it shows on but its not actually on. it happens sometimes when changing settings or plying around with the bms. i can see it in the app etc but no powers coming out.

I see no way to do this with the program i downloaded for my phone. only basic settings for cell protection, temp protection and total pack voltage.

I got it started again, (the how is unknown) and now it will not charge set the charge parameters high enough that it should have, but no dice... power comes out but will not go in.

 

[timmeh]

I see no way to do this with the program i downloaded for my phone. only basic settings for cell protection, temp protection and total pack voltage.

I got it started again, (the how is unknown) and now it will not charge set the charge parameters high enough that it should have, but no dice... power comes out but will not go in.

Its like last page of the top menu options. Where reset and reboot etc are from memory. It does sound like the mosfetts are off in any random combo. Make sure settings match up too like total max voltage isnt way lower than max cell voltage added up example nothing conflicting.

 

[Daddy Tanuki]

Its like last page of the top menu options. Where reset and reboot etc are from memory. It does sound like the mosfetts are off in any random combo. Make sure settings match up too like total max voltage isnt way lower than max cell voltage added up example nothing conflicting.

found it, or at least i think i did the way they label stuff.... found two buttons for turning charge off and on as well as discharge. tried flipping them both off and then on in different variations, nothing changed. I also tried doing the factory reset button (nothing happened) I then powered everything down and and unhooked the BMS to give it a chance to clear data and reset. this was a mistake from this moment forward i could not get the BMS to turn on in any fashion it just does not come up on BT at all. even without BT I would have thought that it would restart and at least discharge or charge...no such luck. I have notified the company i bought it from seeking a new unit. sweetened the pot with them by asking to buy one more as I wanted a spare for a critical item like this anyways. we will see what happens.

 

[Freshwaterdiver1]

With the BMS balance cable connected - but nothing else, set the meter to Diode / ohm Resistance reading. The Instructions state that there should be a read of 0 to 5 ohms. If read is circa 353.4 there is a fault. Both my dead units show this same reading. When set to continuity the reading is Zero and no buzzer alarm from meter.
The working unit shows up as in the Instructions with a reading of 2.2 - 4. plus on continuity you have the buzzer sounding.

Not sure how other meters work? but for continuity setting (select diode/Ohm symbol) i then press the Z/F button until the speaker symbol appears in my display. Hope that helps any DiY'er like myself, and fairly new to using meters?? at least my type meter!

I might be doing something wrong but - According to Daly - the B- cable should be connected to the Main negative 1st, then the Temperature cable plugs in which should "Activate the unit", then plug in the Balance leads. Now test voltage with your meter on the Main Pos & Neg of the battery pack for eg. 13v or 26v reading etc, now place one meter probe on the Main Positive of the Battery pack, and the other on the black P- and reading should be same as the Battery eg 13v or 26v as above. Mine shows between .5v and 1v below what the battery terminals give and is dead.
Turning on charger shows a raised voltage between P- and the Positive Batt terminal but on the battery terminals, in my instance it shows just 26v.

I have the advantage of having a 2nd identical battery pack so i can cross test the numbers.
My 3rd replacement unit is dead.
But my previous unit which died after a few minutes of actually working with charging and discharging - died.
I have just spent 3 hours messing about and when i came back to the unit just mentioned using the same sequence as mentioned above - she came to life and power was running out to loads adn also stated taking a charge but then dropped dead again after about 5 or 6 seconds!

My other Daly unit right from the start (Model R16A GB16) has worked faultlessly for 4 month now, but i am concerned by the failure rates of Daly BMS units despite having a QC sticker or leaflet.

 

[Deleted member 9967]

I am at the point of saying the heck with it and saving for the next year t get an overkill BMS instead.
Especially after reading what you guys have gone through.
My Daly works fine except for one string.
So I can use it to charge but not when discharging.
So I have to disconnect it every time I want to use my batteries. Annoying as heck.

This has been an entertaining, thought, and frustrating thread to say the least.

I hope you guys find the solutions that you guys need.

 

[Just John]

I might be doing something wrong but - According to Daly - the B- cable should be connected to the Main negative 1st, then the Temperature cable plugs in which should "Activate the unit", then plug in the Balance leads. Now test voltage with your meter on the Main Pos & Neg of the battery pack for eg. 13v or 26v reading etc, now place one meter probe on the Main Positive of the Battery pack, and the other on the black P- and reading should be same as the Battery eg 13v or 26v as above. Mine shows between .5v and 1v below what the battery terminals give and is dead.
Turning on charger shows a raised voltage between P- and the Positive Batt terminal but on the battery terminals, in my instance it shows just 26v.

I have the advantage of having a 2nd identical battery pack so i can cross test the numbers.
My 3rd replacement unit is dead.
But my previous unit which died after a few minutes of actually working with charging and discharging - died.
I have just spent 3 hours messing about and when i came back to the unit just mentioned using the same sequence as mentioned above - she came to life and power was running out to loads adn also stated taking a charge but then dropped dead again after about 5 or 6 seconds!

My other Daly unit right from the start (Model R16A GB16) has worked faultlessly for 4 month now, but i am concerned by the failure rates of Daly BMS units despite having a QC sticker or leaflet.

The unit will never activate before you plug in the balance leads.
It needs both a positive and a negative voltage, until you plug in the balance leads it has no positive voltage. Certainly you need the temperature probe plugged in, as well as the negative connection, but it will not activate before you plug in the balance leads.

 

[HighTechLab]

found it, or at least i think i did the way they label stuff.... found two buttons for turning charge off and on as well as discharge. tried flipping them both off and then on in different variations, nothing changed. I also tried doing the factory reset button (nothing happened) I then powered everything down and and unhooked the BMS to give it a chance to clear data and reset. this was a mistake from this moment forward i could not get the BMS to turn on in any fashion it just does not come up on BT at all. even without BT I would have thought that it would restart and at least discharge or charge...no such luck. I have notified the company i bought it from seeking a new unit. sweetened the pot with them by asking to buy one more as I wanted a spare for a critical item like this anyways. we will see what happens.

Do you have a light board or key button in order to activate or are you trying to use the charge current method to activate?

Light boards, if compatible with your model BMS, are worth their weight in gold. Not only do they give you a simple "activate" button, they also have lights that tell you if the activation worked.

98% of the issues I've seen with the Daly BMS units is caused by not being able to activate properly. This is their biggest issue - Most of the time "dead" bms units actually are not dead at all.

Another thing to try, if you have a USB-UART cable, plug that bad boy into the BMS, then either a USB charger or computer. 5v provided by USB onto the comms port of the BMS activates it as well.

Also, 4s BMS units are a COMPLETELY different animal than larger units, it's a different IC that drives the BMS as a whole, a totally seperate monitoring software, yeah, everything about it is different other than its main function.

 

[Daddy Tanuki]

Do you have a light board or key button in order to activate or are you trying to use the charge current method to activate?

Light boards, if compatible with your model BMS, are worth their weight in gold. Not only do they give you a simple "activate" button, they also have lights that tell you if the activation worked.

98% of the issues I've seen with the Daly BMS units is caused by not being able to activate properly. This is their biggest issue - Most of the time "dead" bms units actually are not dead at all.

Another thing to try, if you have a USB-UART cable, plug that bad boy into the BMS, then either a USB charger or computer. 5v provided by USB onto the comms port of the BMS activates it as well.

Also, 4s BMS units are a COMPLETELY different animal than larger units, it's a different IC that drives the BMS as a whole, a totally seperate monitoring software, yeah, everything about it is different other than its main function.

I don't have the light board yet, but i ordered two more of the BMS's as they are cheap, and i instructed the seller to send me a light board as well for that exact reason. there is a high probability that one of two things have happened.... I fried it trying to start it... I am using 48 volts and the spark when you short out the two negative sides is pretty impressive, or I set the on and off voltages in a fashion that created a loop that the bms cannot get out of to restart ( I bricked it) I am hoping for the fact that I bricked it, but I am telling you the jump when i tried to cross the two negatives really worries me... after two or three times of restarting it (did not mention that i guess) after about 4 restarts it would not restart so not sure.. the spark was damn impressive, and the inverter would wobble back and forth without not quite starting. I have since ordered a 60 volt power source to use as a "charge source" that I can set at just above the batteries actual voltage to avoid that in rush current spark. it can't be good for the unit to have that happen and even my inverter is now acting funky. not really pleased but at the price point I can afford to experiment with these things. If i don find happiness in the next two I will order a more expensive "upper end" BMS.

 

[Just John]

I don't have the light board yet, but i ordered two more of the BMS's as they are cheap, and i instructed the seller to send me a light board as well for that exact reason. there is a high probability that one of two things have happened.... I fried it trying to start it... I am using 48 volts and the spark when you short out the two negative sides is pretty impressive, or I set the on and off voltages in a fashion that created a loop that the bms cannot get out of to restart ( I bricked it) I am hoping for the fact that I bricked it, but I am telling you the jump when i tried to cross the two negatives really worries me... after two or three times of restarting it (did not mention that i guess) after about 4 restarts it would not restart so not sure.. the spark was damn impressive, and the inverter would wobble back and forth without not quite starting. I have since ordered a 60 volt power source to use as a "charge source" that I can set at just above the batteries actual voltage to avoid that in rush current spark. it can't be good for the unit to have that happen and even my inverter is now acting funky. not really pleased but at the price point I can afford to experiment with these things. If i don find happiness in the next two I will order a more expensive "upper end" BMS.

Try a precharge resistor. That should help with the spark. I could be wrong, but it seems you are trying to wake it up with the inverter connected? Try it without, and use a precharge resistor.

Many discussions here about it.

Pre-charging with resistor.

Seeing some posts about using a resistor to pre-charge (the capacitors?) the inverter. I have an MPP 2424LV-MSD that I hope to have batteries for in the next few days. I have seen lots of differing opinions on the subject. I read in one place that if the inverter is small, under 3000 watts was...

diysolarforum.com

 

[Daddy Tanuki]

Try a precharge resistor. That should help with the spark. I could be wrong, but it seems you are trying to wake it up with the inverter connected? Try it without, and use a precharge resistor.

Many discussions here about it.

Pre-charging with resistor.

Seeing some posts about using a resistor to pre-charge (the capacitors?) the inverter. I have an MPP 2424LV-MSD that I hope to have batteries for in the next few days. I have seen lots of differing opinions on the subject. I read in one place that if the inverter is small, under 3000 watts was...

diysolarforum.com

I tried, with a resistor but all the ones I had laying around were too high (i think) and would not let the thing charge. I remember back in the mid 90's while working with hgih end car stereos needing to charge capacitors with a resistor to avoid the inrush spark. back then the resistor would get hot and you had to be careful. tried that with some resistors I had but nothing happened, still a honking big spark. regardless I will be waiting for the light board. Its what its designed for and I will not be anywhere near the cabin for the next two weeks anyway due to work. will revisit this after the parts arrive and I have time to tinker with it.

 

[Just John]

I tried, with a resistor but all the ones I had laying around were too high (i think) and would not let the thing charge. I remember back in the mid 90's while working with hgih end car stereos needing to charge capacitors with a resistor to avoid the inrush spark. back then the resistor would get hot and you had to be careful. tried that with some resistors I had but nothing happened, still a honking big spark. regardless I will be waiting for the light board. Its what its designed for and I will not be anywhere near the cabin for the next two weeks anyway due to work. will revisit this after the parts arrive and I have time to tinker with it.

How long do you have to wait for a lightboard?

More DALY smart BMS issues

Here you go, I took pictures of waking up my 250 smart bms. First picture is just fresh after hooking it up. not yet woke up. Then I short momentarily these 2 pins. Then I remeasure the voltage afterwards and it's now awake.

diysolarforum.com

 

[MnM]

I tried, with a resistor but all the ones I had laying around were too high (i think) and would not let the thing charge. I remember back in the mid 90's while working with hgih end car stereos needing to charge capacitors with a resistor to avoid the inrush spark. back then the resistor would get hot and you had to be careful. tried that with some resistors I had but nothing happened, still a honking big spark. regardless I will be waiting for the light board. Its what its designed for and I will not be anywhere near the cabin for the next two weeks anyway due to work. will revisit this after the parts arrive and I have time to tinker with it.

Hi Ken,
I have gone thru the same process as you are going thru.
Buying a Daly BMS (in my case a 8s 24V 250A R32W-GA29), trying to get it to work.
When connected with balance-leads and B- it measures from most positive on the pack to P- I get ~0,4V less than when measuring from most positive to most negative (B-) on the pack. I could not get the BMS starting with a charger, so I ordered the lightboard and waited for a good 3-4 weeks. By the time I got the light-board the "Dispute-period" was over so now I can´t get a refund. The lightboard arrived but I did not help me. I have tried starting the damn thing with multi-meter in diode-mode, with Power-Bank (5V) connected to the UART port. With computer connected to the UART port, but nothing seems to work.
I have given up on this BMS and ordered a new Daly-clone from the Germany. This to get it a bit quicker than shipping from China.
I really hope this BMS will work. Tomorrow I will know more.?

 

[Daddy Tanuki]

How long do you have to wait for a lightboard?

More DALY smart BMS issues

Here you go, I took pictures of waking up my 250 smart bms. First picture is just fresh after hooking it up. not yet woke up. Then I short momentarily these 2 pins. Then I remeasure the voltage afterwards and it's now awake.

diysolarforum.com

it will take two or three weeks at best, which is OK as I cannot go tot he cabin anyways due to work. I am operating under the thought that I bricked the items myself via my settings. If not I will have two more to play with. at that time I will give a full report if it does not fire up, or if the two new additional items don't work properly then I will report it and move on to another BMS.

The guy I am dealing with in China seems to be a straight shooter, I bought batteries from him along with the BMS he offered, so we will see. I am not so worried about him as I am the lack of english support from the BMS maker.... honestly i have seen gorilla language via sign language translated better than this... think Koko... (this is not a racist attempt at denigrating anybody... Just the honest to god truth).

Their manual is as worthless as tits on a boar hog. I often translate for Navy contracts... and trust me the differences between English and Japanese are a royal PITA, but the bugs have been more or less worked out, nobody has really tried to work out the bugs in Chinese... or at least the individual vendors have not.

R/

Ken

 

[nwillitts]

i bought 2 DALY BMS.
one is a 4s 250A-the other a 8s 300A.
both from currentconnected,the owner is a member here.
they work very well.
i wonder why people are having issues?
different PCB or something?

 

[MnM]

I got my rebranded Daly (Xenes) this week and installed it yesterday.
The package contained all cables and also the light-board.
I reused my balance-leads that I got from my Daly 8s that I never could get going.
Plugged in the NTC, BT-UART and lightboard. Then I plugged in the balance-cable.
Measured the resistance (ohms) between P- and B- and got the exact same value as my "broken" Daly-BMS.
Then I pushed the button on the light-board and the BMS started and the lightboard light up. Success!
So now my new BMS is up and running and working. I finally also got a 60% refund of my Daly BMS after sending a message to the Aliexpress support.

 

[Just John]

i bought 2 DALY BMS.
one is a 4s 250A-the other a 8s 300A.
both from currentconnected,the owner is a member here.
they work very well.
i wonder why people are having issues?
different PCB or something?

Poor quality control from Daly, and their practice to randomly change designs and pin outs for no discernible reason. Talk to them (I have, at length and in detail), they don't care.

 

[Freshwaterdiver1]

The unit will never activate before you plug in the balance leads.
It needs both a positive and a negative voltage, until you plug in the balance leads it has no positive voltage. Certainly you need the temperature probe plugged in, as well as the negative connection, but it will not activate before you plug in the balance leads.

I got my rebranded Daly (Xenes) this week and installed it yesterday.
The package contained all cables and also the light-board.
I reused my balance-leads that I got from my Daly 8s that I never could get going.
Plugged in the NTC, BT-UART and lightboard. Then I plugged in the balance-cable.
Measured the resistance (ohms) between P- and B- and got the exact same value as my "broken" Daly-BMS.
Then I pushed the button on the light-board and the BMS started and the lightboard light up. Success!
So now my new BMS is up and running and working. I finally also got a 60% refund of my Daly BMS after sending a message to the Aliexpress support.

I got my rebranded Daly (Xenes) this week and installed it yesterday.
The package contained all cables and also the light-board.
I reused my balance-leads that I got from my Daly 8s that I never could get going.
Plugged in the NTC, BT-UART and lightboard. Then I plugged in the balance-cable.
Measured the resistance (ohms) between P- and B- and got the exact same value as my "broken" Daly-BMS.
Then I pushed the button on the light-board and the BMS started and the lightboard light up. Success!
So now my new BMS is up and running and working. I finally also got a 60% refund of my Daly BMS after sending a message to the Aliexpress support.

So glad to hear you got yours working John. Good job Bro.

You are correct John, yeh, I had the balance leads plugged in as well.