diy solar

diy solar

mount busbars on wood ?

Love these isolators. 1/4" mounting bolts.
 

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Two things come to mind-
1. Since you're asking about mounting to the wood, there must be some level of concern.
Yes, it is working now while everything is ideal, it's when things go to s*** that the weakness shows up.
2. In post #20, You said "Then I will buy fuses". IMHO that is scary.
Proper fusing prevents fires.
 
Acklands Grainger, or our local industrial electrician.. That was a long time ago. I do recall they are 600v isolation. There are many online sources i see.
 
Not for internal use. The silica dust it emits is a huge HSF issue as if breathed in you will have long term repository issues. For outdoor use it's fine as wind/etc blows any dusting away. For cutting the use of a proper respirator is important.
OK, I get the Silicosis aspect. But, really? So, neither should you drill mounting holes in concrete basement walls or holes for conduit in concrete floors for fear of lung disease? We live in enough of a Prop 65 world already! Based on your 'outdoors is fine' suggestion, I suspect that you've never cut (sawed) very much fiber-cement siding. The dust can be overwhelming on both calm and breezy days. I use a fan or leaf blower to control it. Works wonders. (And, yes, I am familiar with the "shears" made for cutting the stuff but they fall a little short in some instances.)

As far as the material not being "structural" goes, I guess so. But, I think that would depend on the thickness, how well it was supported and the loads and bending moment applied. I'd likely trust it as an electrical insulator. Especially at these voltages.

I was thinking that PVC molding/boards might work pretty well. I haven't used PVC as an insulator (except in pipe form in various antennas) but I have fashioned some clamps to hold Romex (house wire) to a backboard. Sort of like a broad "comb" to position and hold the Romex in nice, neat runs. All you need is a table saw and a little patience. I suppose it could be used in a similar manner to organize DC cabling. Or, as a mounting surface for various items. Might not do so well in a fire but neither would a plywood battery box, etc. I tend to fuse conservatively and over-gauge to reduce the likelihood of fires. Heat is the enemy of most things electrical/electronic.

PVC Romex Clamp.png
 
OK, I get the Silicosis aspect. But, really? So, neither should you drill mounting holes in concrete basement walls or holes for conduit in concrete floors for fear of lung disease? We live in enough of a Prop 65 world already! Based on your 'outdoors is fine' suggestion, I suspect that you've never cut (sawed) very much fiber-cement siding. The dust can be overwhelming on both calm and breezy days. I use a fan or leaf blower to control it. Works wonders. (And, yes, I am familiar with the "shears" made for cutting the stuff but they fall a little short in some instances.)

As far as the material not being "structural" goes, I guess so. But, I think that would depend on the thickness, how well it was supported and the loads and bending moment applied. I'd likely trust it as an electrical insulator. Especially at these voltages.

I was thinking that PVC molding/boards might work pretty well. I haven't used PVC as an insulator (except in pipe form in various antennas) but I have fashioned some clamps to hold Romex (house wire) to a backboard. Sort of like a broad "comb" to position and hold the Romex in nice, neat runs. All you need is a table saw and a little patience. I suppose it could be used in a similar manner to organize DC cabling. Or, as a mounting surface for various items. Might not do so well in a fire but neither would a plywood battery box, etc. I tend to fuse conservatively and over-gauge to reduce the likelihood of fires. Heat is the enemy of most things electrical/electronic.

View attachment 48334

I've re-sided 3 homes with Hardy Plank. And yes the dust gets everywhere. But you wear a proper respirator when cutting it, cut outdoors, use a proper chopper, and wipe down the cut boards with a tack cloth to get as much dust off before installing.

The safety sheets explain all this for a reason as the dust is extremely dangerous. This is not net-nannying or prop65 bullshit - you breath it and you will have lung problems.
 
I've re-sided 3 homes with Hardy Plank. And yes the dust gets everywhere. But you wear a proper respirator when cutting it, cut outdoors, use a proper chopper, and wipe down the cut boards with a tack cloth to get as much dust off before installing.

The safety sheets explain all this for a reason as the dust is extremely dangerous. This is not net-nannying or prop65 bullshit - you breath it and you will have lung problems.

Agreed.

In another thread I've posted that I would be reluctant to use the Hardie product if it's exposed to interior areas. I have used a lot of the Hardie Backer Board for tile jobs. I do not cut the panels indoors. I'll drill into it indoors, but I use a vacuum with a HEPA filter to gather up the dust. Even then, I'm wearing a breathing apparatus.

The Hardie boards are awesome. But only when used properly.
 
Agreed.

In another thread I've posted that I would be reluctant to use the Hardie product if it's exposed to interior areas. I have used a lot of the Hardie Backer Board for tile jobs. I do not cut the panels indoors. I'll drill into it indoors, but I use a vacuum with a HEPA filter to gather up the dust. Even then, I'm wearing a breathing apparatus.

The Hardie boards are awesome. But only when used properly.

I figure anything that doesn't rot, mold, mildew also means it won't dissolve naturally once inside ones body ;). So the stuff that makes such excellent building materials for such environments need some caution.

Great stuff. Even in Maryland where everything rots eventually the Hardy stuff will last a lifetime.
 

or if you need them to handle 300 amps
 
I use my buss bars on the wood studs in my shed. As long as the bar can handle the current without getting hot, I have no problem with it or any concern of a possible hazard.
 
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