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Mounting Panels With No Drilling

danielsjoseph891

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Mar 30, 2021
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I plan on using the no-drill mounts Will gave a tutorial on (white plastic corner peices). I see there are a number of versions/brands that come with side mounts as well as corner mounts. It looks like I can order more side mounts for the van. My question is: in addition to placing the side mounts at where the panels would butt against each other, would I need to drill through the frame of each panel and screw it/bolt it into the next for added security. Please provide guidance on the best way to do this. Or is there a better way period to mount 4 solar panels atop a chevy cargo van?
Thanks,
Joe
 
The better way, in my opinion, is to install a rack system and put the solar panels on a rack. This solves a lot of issue, like curvature, obstructions, holes in the roof, etc.

I'm not a fan of the VHB tape based solutions. They work for your case, as long as the paint is in good shape and not going to come off.
 
I see. Could you please share what rack system you use or recommend one or two to look at? I would like to not have to drill into my roof but perhaps that will be necessary. Thanks for your wisdom.
 
I see. Could you please share what rack system you use or recommend one or two to look at? I would like to not have to drill into my roof but perhaps that will be necessary. Thanks for your wisdom.
I made a rack out of 1.5" aluminum angle for 2 100 watt panels. Its just like a picture frame. Just figuring out the mounting scheme.
If you dont mind drilling a few holes in your roof mounting is a piece of cake. Otherwise you COULD try jb weld... Youd have to strip a lot of paint and gouge up the metal. Its sketchy tho. Just drill the holes, if one flew off at speed you could kill someone. Or worse:

https://www.seattlepi.com/news/article/Accident-took-woman-s-sight-but-not-her-vision-1158886.php
 
On a cargo van?
Find some form of clamp mounted option - those things usually have very strong gutters.
Used yakima or thule racks can be had pretty cheap. Rhino rack gutter mounts aren't expensive.
I built an insane roof rack once that used factory bolt points for a jeep cherokee. (9 inch tall basket full roof lenght)

Honestly, I wouldn't trust a stick on option.
 
I haven't done my install on my truck camper yet... but here's my plan.

I bought Renogy 100W solar panels and the Renogy Drill Free mount kit.


I also bought the metal brackets "MTS-ZB" that screw on. These brackets will be between the open areas of the bonded on "drill free kit".


In the Z bracket installation instructions they recommend using McMaster Rubber well nuts when you drill through the roof. This adds surface area and won't tear out like a screw through fiberglass or plywood. I will drill holes for the well nuts, Coat with adhesive sealant, Install them, cover them with EternaBond tape. Then put a 1/4" metal shim above them (The Z brackets are shorter than the drill free mount height). The Z brackets will mount on top of the shims, with screws threaded into the rubber well nuts. Lastly, I'll dicor around the shim and fasteners.

On all bonded (adhesive) areas, I'll clean the roof surface with Acetone (check for your materials compatibility), then take duct tape, or gorilla tape and press it down, then peel it off. If it comes off easily, do it again with new tape until you get a good bond. This eliminates any loose particles, oils, etc, and creates an active surface for bonding. Then apply the adhesive and bond and screw the panels down. Make sure to clean and "tack" the panel mounting surfaces also for good adhesion.

It's best to have air flowing underneath the panels if they are thick. Aerodynamic lift happens when air goes over the panels, but not under. By passing air underneath, you will minimize lift.

Lastly, I'll drill each panel and add a safety cable to other panels/mount. Your electrical wires will not hold a solar panel once it's lifted and airborne. At least the cable will avoid it from flying off on the highway.

Overkill? Yes. You will see YouTube videos of many people just using tape/adhesive. If there is an issue later, they seldom come back and fill in the final chapter. There was one video that I saw of a bus that lost his panel onto the highway. I actually lost a folding table that was tied to my roof rack. When I stopped to see friends, they asked what was that metal bar hanging out above my truck camper roof. It was the remaining section of the rack. The table and 2/3'rds of my roof rack were missing. I'm guessing the aerodynamic force lifted the table until it caught air under the leading edge. It left silently, ripping the roof rack up and tearing the metal off. I had a truck on a deck over trailer being towed behind the truck camper. The table and roof rack never hit that.

There's a thousand ways to fail and only a few to succeed.
 
I haven't done my install on my truck camper yet... but here's my plan.

I bought Renogy 100W solar panels and the Renogy Drill Free mount kit.


I also bought the metal brackets "MTS-ZB" that screw on. These brackets will be between the open areas of the bonded on "drill free kit".


In the Z bracket installation instructions they recommend using McMaster Rubber well nuts when you drill through the roof. This adds surface area and won't tear out like a screw through fiberglass or plywood. I will drill holes for the well nuts, Coat with adhesive sealant, Install them, cover them with EternaBond tape. Then put a 1/4" metal shim above them (The Z brackets are shorter than the drill free mount height). The Z brackets will mount on top of the shims, with screws threaded into the rubber well nuts. Lastly, I'll dicor around the shim and fasteners.

On all bonded (adhesive) areas, I'll clean the roof surface with Acetone (check for your materials compatibility), then take duct tape, or gorilla tape and press it down, then peel it off. If it comes off easily, do it again with new tape until you get a good bond. This eliminates any loose particles, oils, etc, and creates an active surface for bonding. Then apply the adhesive and bond and screw the panels down. Make sure to clean and "tack" the panel mounting surfaces also for good adhesion.

It's best to have air flowing underneath the panels if they are thick. Aerodynamic lift happens when air goes over the panels, but not under. By passing air underneath, you will minimize lift.

Lastly, I'll drill each panel and add a safety cable to other panels/mount. Your electrical wires will not hold a solar panel once it's lifted and airborne. At least the cable will avoid it from flying off on the highway.

Overkill? Yes. You will see YouTube videos of many people just using tape/adhesive. If there is an issue later, they seldom come back and fill in the final chapter. There was one video that I saw of a bus that lost his panel onto the highway. I actually lost a folding table that was tied to my roof rack. When I stopped to see friends, they asked what was that metal bar hanging out above my truck camper roof. It was the remaining section of the rack. The table and 2/3'rds of my roof rack were missing. I'm guessing the aerodynamic force lifted the table until it caught air under the leading edge. It left silently, ripping the roof rack up and tearing the metal off. I had a truck on a deck over trailer being towed behind the truck camper. The table and roof rack never hit that.

There's a thousand ways to fail and only a few to succeed.

The rubber well nuts get old, dry out, and deteriorate and then nothing holding them.

Screws into metal or plywood as long as installed correctly, proper size/type for the material, multiple per foot, and properly sealed to keep water out of puncture rotting out wood is the best way to go unless you want to do unistrut to some sort of 8020 frame.
 
The rubber well nuts get old, dry out, and deteriorate and then nothing holding them.

Screws into metal or plywood as long as installed correctly, proper size/type for the material, multiple per foot, and properly sealed to keep water out of puncture rotting out wood is the best way to go unless you want to do unistrut to some sort of 8020 frame.
Is the rubber degradation due to UV sunlight? I could see that happening, just like most rubber.

I bought the Neoprene well nuts recommended by Renogy.



There were ton's of cheaper ones on Amazon, but I decided to pay for the recommended ones.

Neoprene should be good for this purpose.

 
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Is the rubber degradation due to UV sunlight? I could see that happening, just like most rubber.

They should not get UV exposure as under the bracket and covered in sealant. I believe it is how they are made with vulcanized rubber onto the metal thread insert as well as getting baked in the sun that causes the degradation.

I've seen these used; which would depending on the roof construction.

 
Is the rubber degradation due to UV sunlight? I could see that happening, just like most rubber.

I bought the Neoprene well nuts recommended by Renogy.



There were ton's of cheaper ones on Amazon, but I decided to pay for the recommended ones.

Neoprene should be good for this purpose.

McMaster Carr sells the "POP/Avdel" brand of well nuts from Stanley. The box says 10SL 347112/388 Cloroprene 10-32. You may find them cheaper than McMaster Carr.
 
I'm a fan of nutserts. Used them for a heavy duty fender flare install on my old jeep. They are impressive.
 
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