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Mounting Solar Panels on RV with Curved Roof

OrganicSower

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I'm looking for the best way to mount solar panels flat and horizontal on my RV's curved roof - either with individual panel brackets or an integrated rack system.

Anybody do this?

BTW, the Renogy brackets for curved roofs do not provide enough height differential between the lower and upper mounting positions to allow true horizontal solar panel placement on my RV. They likely would work on other roofs with a more shallow dome, but not my roof.
 
What I did, which is not cheap or easy, was elevate the entire array by building an aluminum structure, and welding tabs on the base. This way you can cut angles if needed, but in my case, the angle was not so much that I needed to. I welded top plates on the supports, then bolted strut channel to the top plates. From there I bolted aluminum tilt frames to the strut channel, and to the solar panels. Now I can change out panels easily, even changing size if desired. Easy access to underside, good cooling, etc. This also allowed me to maximize number of panels. I have 12 panels on my roof. Even if you don't build a structure, just bolting strut rails to the roof gives you ability to deal with the curve, and elevate the panel a bit. If you are not going for maximum collection... strut rail and tilt frames from Amazon are a great way to go.

Hope it helps
 
I have a curved roof as well, I was planning on putting aluminum uni-struts on the roof and use or fabricate mounting feet to get the panels where I want them. I'm just here to see if any better ideas show up....
 
The nice thing about uni-strut and tilt frames is that you simply get them in a general area and spacing, using the joists as anchor points for bolting it down, then the cage nuts allow flexibility in length of panel, and tilt frames allow flexibility in width. No need for "precise" placement, and easy to change to totally different panel dimensions. Just bolt panel side of tilt frame to new panel and adjust cage nut to new width. And the benefit of increasing production from panel when facing south by increasing tilt angle. win-win-win.
 
The nice thing about uni-strut and tilt frames is that you simply get them in a general area and spacing, using the joists as anchor points for bolting it down, then the cage nuts allow flexibility in length of panel, and tilt frames allow flexibility in width. No need for "precise" placement, and easy to change to totally different panel dimensions. Just bolt panel side of tilt frame to new panel and adjust cage nut to new width. And the benefit of increasing production from panel when facing south by increasing tilt angle. win-win-win.

Any pictures of your install? I'm starting with 400w and already planning to add another 400w in the future so I like the 'modular' aspect of unistruts.
 
So here are a few in different stages of the panel install. 12 250w SunPower panels. 2s6p config running through a combiner box. Nice benefit I had not considered has been shading of a/c from direct sun, as well as roof. Need a/c less and trailer cools faster and stays cooler in summer.
 

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Whoa... thats huge. Thats what the girls say....

RE: shading AC and coach....

Have you been able to tell a difference with the solar panels for rooftop shade?

Also, have you been able to tell a difference after shading the rooftop AC?
There is obviously some tradeoff between shade and airflow....
 
The panels are high enough over a-c that there is no real airflow issue. Venting of a/c is through side, and there is no real restriction. Other RV’ers are surprised how cool I can keep it in 120degree AZ summer heat. I run a/c waaaay less. That with my max aire fans to circulate in push/pull really minimize usage. And yes, my solar runs my a/c. And fridge, and lights, and coffee maker, and ao on. I don’t need shore power if in a park.
 
Yeah it can be rough, but being a perpetual nomad and owning a business in Sedona now, I can't always ensure not being in the heat... which really doesn't bother me like it does many. Rain is my kryptonite! Costa Rica generally gets my nod as the place I like best, even in some of the rain because its warm. But even there... too much of it I'm out.
 
Ok. This turned out WAY good, and easier than you think.
PXL_20221031_204324979.jpg
You can barely see it...so I'll describe as well. Centered on each panel is the typical tiny z bracket with a 1inch rise off the roof. Fwd and rear CENTER on each panel.
Now, I'll try to hilight and describe the other brackets.
At the panel corners there's a z bracket also...but it's a Z from the top. Here's another pic:
PXL_20221031_204433991.jpg
This one screws through the side moldings, ahead and behind the panel. Then up -and-IN-towards the panel corners, and bolted (locknuts) through a new hole. So easy.
Any height is possible. This was made from a 5mm(3/16) x 1.25inch wide aluminum strip, and bent in a vise with a rubber mallet. Easy. Add holes and bolt together.
PXL_20221031_204406057.jpg
These are so friggin strong it's crazy. And the wind can whizz right under the sides, they automatically raise branches over the panels, and it's NO screws on the roof top except at the very crown, which is safer.
(Unnecessary stuff: )
For reference, this is the inside bits under the sofa:
PXL_20221031_204155379.jpg
5kw storage, 3kw usage, 750w solar charger, 400w AC charger
 
I'm looking for the best way to mount solar panels flat and horizontal on my RV's curved roof - either with individual panel brackets or an integrated rack system.

Anybody do this?

BTW, the Renogy brackets for curved roofs do not provide enough height differential between the lower and upper mounting positions to allow true horizontal solar panel placement on my RV. They likely would work on other roofs with a more shallow dome, but not my roof.
I chose not to do a totally horizontal mount for my panels and allowed the rounded roof to create a gable roof out of the panels. This has the advantage of decreasing the amount of debris that can collect on the panels and allows the dirt to wash off when it rains. I spaced the panels slightly apart from one another and made a gasket of silicone between them so that the array acts a bit like a second roof. I raised the panels just enough that the roof vents will open. I created an airfoil on the front of the trailer to reduce lift on the panels and improve my aerodynamics a little bit.
 

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I made hinged mounts with aluminum strut channel and angle. Solid channel, 4" long with three .250 holes drilled. Center hole is into aluminum rafter the other two into 3/8 plywood sheathing using #14 sheet metal screws. All hardware is stainless.
 

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I made hinged mounts with aluminum strut channel and angle. Solid channel, 4" long with three .250 holes drilled. Center hole is into aluminum rafter the other two into 3/8 plywood sheathing using #14 sheet metal screws. All hardware is stainless.
You mentioned that they are hinged mounts ..... can you tilt the panels or is the "hinge" only used to make it easier to match the angle?
 
You mentioned that they are hinged mounts ..... can you tilt the panels or is the "hinge" only used to make it easier to match the angle?
Both, though at this point tilting them is more trouble than it's worth.

Notice the gap at the red arrow. There is a teflon washer there so the joint moves smoothly with the bolt nice and tight.

20221213_103538.jpg
 
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I have the same problem with my transit t150. Went with Unaka roof rack system. Spoke with them on the phone, nice people and they design a rack system that will work for me. Hope this helps, dlee
 
Ok. This turned out WAY good, and easier than you think.
View attachment 124409
You can barely see it...so I'll describe as well. Centered on each panel is the typical tiny z bracket with a 1inch rise off the roof. Fwd and rear CENTER on each panel.
Now, I'll try to hilight and describe the other brackets.
At the panel corners there's a z bracket also...but it's a Z from the top. Here's another pic:
View attachment 124410
This one screws through the side moldings, ahead and behind the panel. Then up -and-IN-towards the panel corners, and bolted (locknuts) through a new hole. So easy.
Any height is possible. This was made from a 5mm(3/16) x 1.25inch wide aluminum strip, and bent in a vise with a rubber mallet. Easy. Add holes and bolt together.
View attachment 124413
These are so friggin strong it's crazy. And the wind can whizz right under the sides, they automatically raise branches over the panels, and it's NO screws on the roof top except at the very crown, which is safer.
(Unnecessary stuff: )
For reference, this is the inside bits under the sofa:
View attachment 124415
5kw storage, 3kw usage, 750w solar charger, 400w AC charger
How has this been holding up with the wind? I would think the panel ends would act like wings and the wind would rip them off the roof. I really like this setup though. Good idea if it holds up.
 
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