Mounting Solar Panels on RV with Curved Roof

[RCinFLA]

Beware of air foil 'wing' vibrations. It will stress PV cell solder joint connections.

 

[azozrider]

The challenge then (split systems) becomes where to mount the units. There often is not wall space for the units inside, and nowhere for the compressors, particularly in 5th wheel trailers. I've seen people sacrifice nearly all their storage in coaches, but then you challenge your ability to carry all you want/need for off grid living/traveling. And for those of us in 44' Toy haulers, there is no storage compartment or anywhere else to mount the compressors. Nor do I have any wall space for the 3 splits it would take to replace the roof units.

Always a give/take, so its all about really evaluating your specific needs and desires for your lifestyle and application. I'd love to see a manufacturer like Grand Designs, who builds a very decent rig, do a purpose built off grid ready vehicle, allowing for maximizing energy efficiency, basing all systems in alternative, non grid-tie solutions. Bigger holding tanks, compositing toilet, water recycling, rain catching, solar, wind, etc. A prototype. And no it doesn't have to be oppulent and ostentatious luxury as current attempts are. How about hydrogen power to charge batteries? That kind of thing. Get out of the box of govt and corporate control. One can dream. Haha.

 

[SeanC]

Size of the vehicle/trailer is a strange factor. Bigger vehicle = bigger roof = more solar. But bigger vehicle = more space = more heating/cooling. I'm not really sure what the best balance is.

But yea I love experimental rigs. You just don't find anything "interesting" in manufactured RVs these days, at least not without "movie star" money. My first Winnebago was acceptable but boring. My second rig is DIY, and it gave me a blank slate to play with. I went with hydronic floor heating, and while it's significantly more complex, it offers so much flexibility (and comfort). The water pump for the system uses ~10W which is substantially lower than what it takes to run a furnace blower fan. I remember my Winnebago, despite having plenty of propane, would run low on battery on cold nights because of the furnace fan.

I also have a mini split/heat pump, but it was added as an after-thought. If I do another build, I'd plan virtually the entire thing around it: heating (hydronic), cooling, domestic hot water. Since heating and cooling are by far the biggest energy consumers, moving from a system that's at most "100%" efficient to a system that's often "300%" efficient makes a massive difference. If you consume 1/3 of the energy, you need 1/3 of the solar panels. Even better if you mix the systems together, such that the "exhaust heat" from the "air conditioning" part of the mini split simply goes into your hot water heater. Basically, pump heat out of the interior air and into the water heater.

I hear you on the space constraints though. It's tough on an existing rig. But to your point, manufacturers need to start playing with more advanced technology on budget-friendly rigs. I bet manufacturers will strike gold once they start designing around mini splits.

 

[RoadTurtle]

I'm pretty much tapped out at 1200 watts. IF I need more than with some compromises can get another 2 panels up, and that's it.

 

[RoadTurtle]

Yeah, true power independence is not happening in these small arrays. On my first trailer, Solar IS my primary, but must be supplemented with a generator at times to bring charge state up. I have yet to see a system as large as mine, and it still needs help. 3kw of Sun Power 250w panels at 22% efficiency rating. 14.3kw lithium storage 48v. Only one A/C to run and use propane for heat. Still needs to be bigger system. But no more real estate on roof.

I'm aware of people running aircon on systems much smaller than yours. I can't get enough roof space to size solar for aircon, so I already know if aircon is needed, generator or shore power is required.

 

[K8MEJ]

Put out another 400W of portable ground solar panels. That's all the difference on the really hot days. I have 1600 on the roof, 400 on the ground (only occasionally), and am about to put 360W on the roof of my slideout. Get creative!

 

[azozrider]

Size of the vehicle/trailer is a strange factor. Bigger vehicle = bigger roof = more solar. But bigger vehicle = more space = more heating/cooling. I'm not really sure what the best balance is.

But yea I love experimental rigs. You just don't find anything "interesting" in manufactured RVs these days, at least not without "movie star" money. My first Winnebago was acceptable but boring. My second rig is DIY, and it gave me a blank slate to play with. I went with hydronic floor heating, and while it's significantly more complex, it offers so much flexibility (and comfort). The water pump for the system uses ~10W which is substantially lower than what it takes to run a furnace blower fan. I remember my Winnebago, despite having plenty of propane, would run low on battery on cold nights because of the furnace fan.

I also have a mini split/heat pump, but it was added as an after-thought. If I do another build, I'd plan virtually the entire thing around it: heating (hydronic), cooling, domestic hot water. Since heating and cooling are by far the biggest energy consumers, moving from a system that's at most "100%" efficient to a system that's often "300%" efficient makes a massive difference. If you consume 1/3 of the energy, you need 1/3 of the solar panels. Even better if you mix the systems together, such that the "exhaust heat" from the "air conditioning" part of the mini split simply goes into your hot water heater. Basically, pump heat out of the interior air and into the water heater.

I hear you on the space constraints though. It's tough on an existing rig. But to your point, manufacturers need to start playing with more advanced technology on budget-friendly rigs. I bet manufacturers will strike gold once they start designing around mini splits.

Yeah I'm actually surprised no manufacturer has tried moving to the mini splits. That alone would be a game-changer.

 

[justinm001]

Put out another 400W of portable ground solar panels. That's all the difference on the really hot days. I have 1600 on the roof, 400 on the ground (only occasionally), and am about to put 360W on the roof of my slideout. Get creative!

Did you ever get these slideout panels installed? I'm wanting to do something similar but have Valid slides with airseals so not sure if possible. I need to put LED lights around them and not sure if they'll even stay.

 

[eXodus]

allow true horizontal

You do not want your panels true horizonal

Water needs to run off. Otherwise you have to clean them a lot more then when you have them angled to any direction.

 

[K8MEJ]

Did you ever get these slideout panels installed? I'm wanting to do something similar but have Valid slides with airseals so not sure if possible. I need to put LED lights around them and not sure if they'll even stay.

Yes, well, mostly I had my guys install two Merlin Solar TBS180L on my slide's roof, but we haven't had time to wire them up inside. I'm hoping we get some spare time in July to hook them up. We have retracted and extended the slide multiple times since we installed the panels with no issues. We have rubber bulb slides with plenty of room for even the wire junction to slide easily beneath the seals.

 

[Supervstech]

You do not want your panels true horizonal

Water needs to run off. Otherwise you have to clean them a lot more then when you have them angled to any direction.

The panels on my suburban are horizontal, but my parking space is tilted slightly. I suppose with an rv leveled the panels sit pure level, but in my truck, it sits at the angle I park in. Rain is pretty much year round here in NC, and the panels do need periodic cleaning.

 

[eXodus]

I suppose with an rv leveled the panels sit pure level,

Most people like their RVs level and the absorption fridge needs it when you didn't convert the a compressor.

So yeah, RV solar panels - not horizontal. Any angle is fine. I like mine tilted up at the back. Gives downforce for racing that beast hrhr.

 

[justinm001]

Mines tilted quite a bit and they seem to work extremely well.

Don't judge it's still a work in progress, once I get the 2 new ACs to actually turn on I can start adding the other half. Well while you're judging, the part where it dips is where the 2 halfs separate since they lift up and I haven't figured out how to best mount them but make removable. The wires on the roof is actually rope so when they're lifted they hang and I can walk the roof..... and yes I forgot a piece of angle rod still just laying on the roof, buts it's been there for a couple thousand miles apparently.

 

[Supervstech]

Mines tilted quite a bit and they seem to work extremely well.

Don't judge it's still a work in progress, once I get the 2 new ACs to actually turn on I can start adding the other half. Well while you're judging, the part where it dips is where the 2 halfs separate since they lift up and I haven't figured out how to best mount them but make removable. The wires on the roof is actually rope so when they're lifted they hang and I can walk the roof..... and yes I forgot a piece of angle rod still just laying on the roof, buts it's been there for a couple thousand miles apparently.

Is that SIX ac units up there?

 

[justinm001]

Is that SIX ac units up there?

Yuppers idk why I need 6 of them in 40ft I guess if I was throwing a party ? They were all 13.5k dometic Penguins (the low ones) but I since replaced 2 with Furrion 15.5k and a brisk 13.5k and brisk 15.5k. I pulled the Furrions off my old coach which are only like 6 months old but go figure 1 the compressor isn't starting. And the brisk needed a controller then a different thermostat which I got but they aren't working. So hopefully I can get that figured out and close up the hvac vents inside and then finish the solar.

 

[eXodus]

Yuppers idk why I need 6 of them in 40ft I guess if I was throwing a party ?

that's like massively overbuild. a 40ft RV these days gets 2x 15k BTU and when you want to overdo it 3x 13.5k

But you also have to say modern RV-air conditioner are better and modern RVs are better sealed and insulation materials got better per inch. But your bus apperently is made from windows and steel. Both are excellent conductors of heat

 

[justinm001]

that's like massively overbuild. a 40ft RV these days gets 2x 15k BTU and when you want to overdo it 3x 13.5k

But you also have to say modern RV-air conditioner are better and modern RVs are better sealed and insulation materials got better per inch. But your bus apperently is made from windows and steel. Both are excellent conductors of heat

Yupp they gotta do something special to justify the 2mil new price tag.

It's basically couches and TVs in there so can seat 20+ people. Friend suggested a stripper pole errr i mean support beam in the middle