diy solar

diy solar

MPP LV6548 Build

Yup. PV disconnect. I thought thats what you meant. I will be using the AIMS disconnect attached to the house, and then 20A DC breakers on each PV input on the inside before the LV6548.
 
Sanwizard said:
Yup. PV disconnect. I thought thats what you meant. I will be using the AIMS disconnect attached to the house, and then 20A DC breakers on each PV input on the inside before the LV6548.
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The conversation was about the battery on/off switch. JoeHam mentioned that the one DanF has is only good for 48V.
So, I was hoping someone would post what they are using for a battery on/off switch that can handle up to 60V.

I have 5 batteries and I would like to be able to turn any one off while the rest are still able to function.
 
ArthurEld said:
The conversation was about the battery on/off switch. JoeHam mentioned that the one DanF has is only good for 48V.
So, I was hoping someone would post what they are using for a battery on/off switch that can handle up to 60V.

I have 5 batteries and I would like to be able to turn any one off while the rest are still able to function.
Click to expand...
LtDan put up a link for a PV disconnect switch. I thought thats what he was looking for. As for 60V DC battery disconnect, Gigavac is an alternative, but they are expensive. I may try out one of those supposed 60V 350A $14 dollar chinese jobs on Amazon.
 
Yes, I originally asked DanF what he was going to use as a PV disconnect. The LV6548 has it written in several places not to disconnect PV from the inverter while under power, so I figured a disconnect would be required.

@Sanwizard I love the idea of that Aims unit, especially with it already having MC4 connectors. But its twice the price for almost the same product, and I don't need an outdoor unit.
 
DanF said:
Batteries are balanced. Starting A.C. terminations in the J.B. Finishing some terminations on the A.C. side and beginning to build the battery box and start work on the D.C. side. Terminations from the Main panel to the J.B. still need done as well as installing the 60a breaker.
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Hey DanF, sorry about my intrusion into your thread. I now understand that was a "dick move". That being said, your install gives me a woody! Are you using fireproof back board? Or is it Plywood?

Yours is one of the cleanest cabling i have ever seen. I work in Data Centers, so that is saying a lot. Nice job!

Any updates on your progress? How are the 6548's working out under load?
What charge, high, low settings are you using on the BMS and Inverter?
I am still waiting on my Lishen cells, and my setup is kinda based on yours, so I have lots of questions.
 
Dick move seems a bit harsh. lol

I like the PV isolators by the way.

The ebay battery switch doesn't have a picture.

I wish my system was as nice looking as DanF's
 
DanF said:
Beginning the DC side install. Made some bus bars, and began mounting and terminating inside the battery box. Ran out of 4/0 lugs, so I'll work on a good spot for the battery equalizer location until I get some more lugs.
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This is a gorgeous build. Extremely elegant.
 
Lt.Dan said:
@DanF what will you be using as a breaker/disconnect between your inverters and the PV Panels?
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I have been setting up the inverters and running tests with charging and dis-charging the system the past couple of days and this will continue for a bit. I will be installing some wood to blank off the rest of the exposed wiring, then I will focus on the solar panel part of the install to finalize the build. To answer your question, I am weeks away from that part and have not decided.
 
Sanwizard said:
Hey DanF, sorry about my intrusion into your thread. I now understand that was a "dick move". That being said, your install gives me a woody! Are you using fireproof back board? Or is it Plywood?

Yours is one of the cleanest cabling i have ever seen. I work in Data Centers, so that is saying a lot. Nice job!

Any updates on your progress? How are the 6548's working out under load?
What charge, high, low settings are you using on the BMS and Inverter?
I am still waiting on my Lishen cells, and my setup is kinda based on yours, so I have lots of questions.
Click to expand...
Plywood back board but so far during my tests I have had no temps on the back side of the inverters over 80 degrees so I'm good with that.
Thanks for the kind words. I actually worked at the Amazon Data centers in our area doing temperature control work on the build outs for the past 4 years myself.
The 6548's are flawless so far. Lots of settings to go through. The BMS is its own entity. JK 2a active balancer. I have my batteries set to disconnect at 48v from the inverters on the low side then they transfer back to grid. Charging is set to 20amps but it ends up being 40 with two inverters installed as split phase. The charging disconnects at 56v on the high side. (So 3.0v-3.5v/Cell).
 

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DanF said:
Plywood back board but so far during my tests I have had no temps on the back side of the inverters over 80 degrees so I'm good with that.
Thanks for the kind words. I actually worked at the Amazon Data centers in our area doing temperature control work on the build outs for the past 4 years myself.
The 6548's are flawless so far. Lots of settings to go through. The BMS is its own entity. JK 2a active balancer. I have my batteries set to disconnect at 48v from the inverters on the low side then they transfer back to grid. Charging is set to 20amps but it ends up being 40 with two inverters installed as split phase. The charging disconnects at 56v on the high side. (So 3.0v-3.5v/Cell).
Click to expand...
Thanks for the update! Cool that your an AWS guy! That explains a lot in your design expertise. By the way, I just received an update from Blue Sea, and they confirmed that their switches should not be used in 48V environments. I think JoeHam gets a beer on us, as he may have saved us from a fire!

From Blue Sea Systems:
Christopher,
Sorry to hear about the trouble, that is correct these switches are not rated for 48 volt systems. Please make any returns to the seller.
Please ask if you have any additional questions

Best Regards,
Blue Sea Systems Tech Support
TOLL FREE: 800-222-7617, Option 2
Blue Sea Systems
4600 Ryzex Way
Bellingham, WA 98226
WEB: www.bluesea.com
TechSupport@bluesea.com
Please print this e-mail only if necessary

This being the case, the fact that their tech supporr ia so good, amd they are up front about their specs, to the point of telling me to use their competition, makes me want to buy their products all the more. Big thumbs up to Blue Sea Systems!
 
@DanF, I think I found a 60V rated switch with 300 continuous amp rating.

Amazon.com: Battery Disconnect Switch 12V 24V 48V 60V Battery Master Cut Off Isolator Switch Waterproof for Marine Boat Auto Camper RV ATV UTV Vehicles, Military Quality On/Off Position : Automotive

Buy Battery Disconnect Switch 12V 24V 48V 60V Battery Master Cut Off Isolator Switch Waterproof for Marine Boat Auto Camper RV ATV UTV Vehicles, Military Quality On/Off Position: Battery Switches - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com

I ordered two. Will let you know what I think once they arrive.
 
I have been trying to find another solution since the Tocas' are thought to be crap, but I'm having a hard time finding something that isnt a huge part of the cost to build my whole system?? I have found this one though, but again, it just says 48vDC, but it makes it seem it is Nominal 48v, not 48v MAX.
www.connectorconcepts.com

48VDC 300A Battery Switch

48VDC 300A Battery Switch - MANUFACTURER: Shallco MANUFACTURER ITEM #: 500S-300 DESCRIPTION: Battery Switch APPLICATIONS: The 500S-300 utilizes a red manual lever to provide simple rotary operation, great feel and quick installation. The heavy-duty construction provides mounting...
www.connectorconcepts.com www.connectorconcepts.com
 
I haven't tried these but they might be good - Blue Sea surface mount breaker

The ad says "not for high inrush current"

And it can't replace a class T fuse.

So, I guess if you aren't planning to use a class T fuse anyway and you don't have high inrush current it would work.

I think 48V is always nominal voltage. People nit pic the hell out of everything.

I know when I was looking at E bike motors it was popular to use 52V batteries on 48V systems for more power.
You'd be pushing your luck using a 48V switch on something like that because it's not 48V nominal.
 
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