MPP LV6548 - mount on basement wall directly or hardie backer board

[pulper11]

Hello!
I am going to use an LV6548 (just got it today!) with two Trojan server rack batteries and a subpanel for 110v.
Is there any reason not to attach the LV6548, T-class fuse and holder, two bus bars, and subpanel directly to the cinder block in the basement? Or do you recommend attaching hardie backer board/fiber cement board onto the cinder block first?
I've attached a couple of pictures to show the basement walls.
Tthanks!

 

[eabyrd]

Hello!
I am going to use an LV6548 (just got it today!) with two Trojan server rack batteries and a subpanel for 110v.
Is there any reason not to attach the LV6548, T-class fuse and holder, two bus bars, and subpanel directly to the cinder block in the basement? Or do you recommend attaching hardie backer board/fiber cement board onto the cinder block first?
I've attached a couple of pictures to show the basement walls.
Tthanks!

Cinderblock is nonflammable so I think youre good. Cement board is to protect flammable wallboard or wood

good luck

 

[timselectric]

A block wall is non-flammable. You can mount directly to it.
As long as it doesn't normally see moisture.
As some basements do.

 

[Rednecktek]

On the other hand, just to throw it out there, mounting everything to the hardiboard first and doing all you cable management is easy, then it's only 2 or 4 lags into the concrete rather than a dozen for all the different pieces. For bonus points, mount a french cleat so it's easier to hang the loaded hardiboard.

Just a thought, concrete is pretty hard to bolt into without special tools and bolts and gets brittle pretty quick once you start. You don't want to perforate the cinder blocks to the point where they crumble.

 

[eabyrd]

On the other hand, just to throw it out there, mounting everything to the hardiboard first and doing all you cable management is easy, then it's only 2 or 4 lags into the concrete rather than a dozen for all the different pieces. For bonus points, mount a french cleat so it's easier to hang the loaded hardiboard.

Just a thought, concrete is pretty hard to bolt into without special tools and bolts and gets brittle pretty quick once you start. You don't want to perforate the cinder blocks to the point where they crumble.

I've never worked with Hardiboard, can you screw into it and expect it to hold just like a piece of 1/2" ply. Full disclosure I looked at the fire rating of plywood, used two horizontal 2/4 pieces at the top & bottom to get some airflow behind the unit and called it good. I didn't want to deal with the dust that I understand comes from cutting cement board

 

[timselectric]

For ease of mounting equipment. I would install the hardy board over plywood. Regular screws will not hold in cement board. It requires attachment with masonry type hardware.
Think of it as just a fire barrier. And mount through it.

 

[Rednecktek]

A thin. like 1/4" thin piece of hardiboard will be plenty fire retardant, and the plywood behind it will give your screws plenty of purchase.

 

[JAS]

I attached unistrut to my block wall (with the weight resting on the floor) using 4 tapcons. Then attached strut crossmembers to mount my MPP unit on. (This leaves about an inch gap behind the unit too.)

Yes, need to be careful drilling into the block. I actually tested on a spare block that I had laying around. Note: the drill bit size that is recommended for the tapcons is too big! Tapcon just spun right out. I used a smaller drill bit with a hammer drill and no problem at all with the tapcons then.

 

[pulper11]

Thanks everyone for chiming in here! I appreciate it.
I have an old piece of 3/4" plywood that I'll use. It's about 3'x4' but that should be good enough. I'll attach it to the cinder block with 3/16" 2" long tapcons. Then I'll attach 1/4" hardie backer board to the plywood. Since the backer board is not providing any structural strength, I'll probably use regular screws and not spend extra on the backer board screws. Let me know if you disagree.
Then I'll attach everything to the combined plywood/cement board with regular screws.
I'll take @JAS advice and be very careful drilling into the block.
Thank you!

 

[timselectric]

That's what I would do.

 

[Tom C]

Thanks everyone for chiming in here! I appreciate it.
I have an old piece of 3/4" plywood that I'll use. It's about 3'x4' but that should be good enough. I'll attach it to the cinder block with 3/16" 2" long tapcons. Then I'll attach 1/4" hardie backer board to the plywood. Since the backer board is not providing any structural strength, I'll probably use regular screws and not spend extra on the backer board screws. Let me know if you disagree.
Then I'll attach everything to the combined plywood/cement board with regular screws.
I'll take @JAS advice and be very careful drilling into the block.
Thank you!

One tip, I installed mine in a shipping container, so rather than drill a bunch of holes through the steel, I attached hardie board to plywood, and measured, drilled, and inserted bolts from the back, with one nut holding them, but long enough so after you mount the plywood, all you have to do is lift and place the inverter on the bolts sticking out, and add another nut.

 

[pulper11]

Just wanted to provide an update here on what I did. Plywood with 1/4" hardie backer over top.
I'm posing some pics as well of the setup so far. Will have some questions on this which I'll post soon elsewhere, but thought I'd tie up this post.
BTW, the pole in the pics is the main house drain. Does make it more difficult to setup here but this is the best location in the house.
Thanks for everyone's help! Feel free to comment with any suggestions - this is my first time doing any of this so while I'll post questions elsewhere, I'm assuming I have done something wrong here or they could be better.

 

[eabyrd]

Looks very well done, but is that a washing machine right next to your batteries?

 

[pulper11]

Looks very well done, but is that a washing machine right next to your batteries?

Thanks @eabyrd! To answer your question, that is a dryer. There is a washing machine in the same room but not right next to it.

 

[eabyrd]

that is a dryer

Good to know. Burst washer hose spraying inverter is generally less than optimum