diy solar

diy solar

MPP PIP-1012LV-MS Voltage Reading Problem

Latest update: This board is acting the exact same as the replaced board.

Latest readings:

MPP Unit reading 13.28V (very low load and 400+W of Solar coming in). Actual voltage is 13.58V. That's 3/10s difference! Isn't that a big deal? At this rate, the battery's BMS will (hopefully) cut off charging before the MPP unit reaches what it believes is full charge...

I'm regretting going the MPP AIO route and if I can't get it fixed/replaced/refunded, I may see if I can unload it on Craigslist or FB :(

IMG_1281.PNG

IMG_1282.jpg
 
Update:

Ian has looped in MPP Solar support...

They sent me instructions and a Windows utility for "calibrating" the voltage. However, the utility constantly errors out when attempting to send commands :rolleyes:

I ended up having to send them videos of the entire issue along with the utility software problems...

Support has said they are now passing this up to R&D. (I don't know if that is for the voltage problem, the software problem, or both)???

At any rate, while I await a result to this case, I'm pondering what to replace this unit with? I was hoping to utilize Solar Assistant for monitoring, but It doesn't appear GroWatt or EG4 make a 12V AIO. I don't know about the other Voltronic units, but I also don't want to order off of eBay, Alibaba, or AlliExpress. Midnite Solar DIY Series now has a monitoring solution, but they don't have a 12V unit either.

Samlex EVO may work, But, need the remote panel and no monitoring solution. Plus $$

Victron comes to mind, but $$$ AND I would still need a MPPT SCC.... Ugh, I wish this MPP unit would work correctly :mad:
 
I'm regretting going the MPP AIO route and if I can't get it fixed/replaced/refunded, I may see if I can unload it on Craigslist or FB
They won’t replace it?
Or is this an intrinsic problem with the units?

Mine’s been going since May?ish (1012LV-MK) and seems fine. Although I have seen voltage discrepancies now that I think about it… but my battery water level hasn’t gone down in 8 batteries all summer. Checked it this morning when it got above 40*

But those are lead acids; you have LiFePo which I am switching in soon. Really the only ‘problem’ I have is inverter overhead in that my 1200W Giandel runs the shopvac and ‘homeowner’ Sears tablesaw, but the 1000W MPPSolar isn’t enough oomph.
guess the switchover to AC makes sense based on my settings since it thinks the voltage dropped to 12.3. But, why is the voltage reading so low?
My concern is that I will be installing two btrpower 140Ah batteries and I know they’re ‘cheap’ so I’d like to know their charging isn’t going to be a wonky factor when I test them out.

Do I / should I actually run them down that far? I was thinking 12.3V or something close to that. Of course part of the problem is going to be that apparently btrpower can’t provide a user manual or charging parameters sheet ?

I’m going to review this thread tonight and check some things tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
They won’t replace it?
I believe Ian would refund me if I ask. However, I would probably have to pay the shipping back to him...

Ian already sent me a new board to swap. So unless it happened to be a board from the same batch as the original, I'm guessing an intrinsic problem to the unit. Note: I have the MS version. The MK version may not have the same problem...

In addition, if the loads are low, it doesn't really matter and I'm still using it. However, when the loads are high (above 700 watt say), the unit reads a low enough voltage to create a low voltage alarm (based on my settings for LifePO4).
 
I have the MS version. The MK version may not have the same problem...
Thank you, that’s why I brought up the model number.

A 1500W inverter, and higher wattage mppt, along with 250VOC max and I’d be ecstatic! They have a ‘perfect’ unit but it’s 24V and that’s not currently useful to me.
 
Update:

Ian swapped out the entire unit for me. (I did have to pay return shipping, which kind of sucks...)

New unit installed and behaving much better so far!!!

So the problem in the old unit was either a 2nd bad mainboard or another component in the box (inverter, scc, etc.)
 
New Update:

So after checking things daily for a week (and voltages reading correctly), I notice yesterday part of the voltage problem is back :mad:

Did some investigating today and isolated the issue:

Apparently, when solar is charging, BUT... only when there is enough solar to cause the fans to run, the battery voltage reads up to 4/10s higher than reality. (for example, my battery voltage was 13.1 and the MPP was reading 13.5 If I throw the disconnect on my solar panels, within a minute, the voltage is reading exactly correct again. I also found when the sun went behind some clouds and the input was only about 40 watts (and the fans shut off), the voltage also read exactly correct.

So... the question is... Is this really a problem? As long as it doesn't start reading low again like the old one, I think I can live with this oddity.
 
Did you measure the Vdrops of the each wire between the PIP's battery terminal and the battery's terminals during the charging phase, especially during high current charging?
 
the question is... Is this really a problem?
Overcharging LiFePo would be my concern but fla would be more tolerant.
But to what degree can “we” trust that the unit will function consistently? A few decimal points of higher voltage reading over “actual” may be no concern with either LiFePo or lead acid but overcharging LiFePo- if it goes that direction- would be or could be expensive never mind a potential fire concern imho if one does not have a safe and dependable BMS that one trusts.

Just my thoughts
 
Overcharging LiFePo would be my concern but fla would be more tolerant.
But to what degree can “we” trust that the unit will function consistently? A few decimal points of higher voltage reading over “actual” may be no concern with either LiFePo or lead acid but overcharging LiFePo- if it goes that direction- would be or could be expensive never mind a potential fire concern imho if one does not have a safe and dependable BMS that one trusts.

Just my thoughts
I agree. As long as the MPP is reading higher than reality, there is no risk of over charging. (There is likelihood that it won't charge fully though). But, if it starts reading the opposite while charging, then that's a problem.

I've not received any further response from MPP support and Ian is claiming that I'm only 1 out of 2 or 3 people who've had problems with this unit.

IDK, I'm debating cutting my losses with this thing. I'm thinking this voltage issue is inherit to the model. Based on reviews and YouTube videos, it seems that most are either using it for an emergency backup or as a glorified UPS. I'm trying to use it as a full-time "off-grid" solution with the AC only used when needed and maybe that's why I'm noticing the voltage issues. ?‍♂️
 
Yeah, there's no drop. I'm running 2/0 cable. about 8" to the Victron Shunt and then about 18" to the battery.

I see this thread too talking about the voltage discrepancy while charging: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/mpp-charging-problem-voltage-disagreement-w-bms.34718/
There will always be Vdrops on the conductors when you have current flow, it may be small that your meter is not registering due to meter scale setting.
So if you use your DC Volt meter to measure the Voltage at the PIP terminals during charging, then take the reading at the battery terminals, do they show the same readings?
 
it may be small that your meter is not registering due to meter scale setting.
If it's that small, I'm not worried about it. ;)

Yes, using my multimeter at the PIP terminals reads exactly the same as my Victron. (Which can be about 1/100's less than what the BMS reads during heavy use). And that's the issue... the reading at the PIP terminals (via my multimeter) is always correct. So where is the number that the unit is reading during charging coming from?!?! (It's obviously not from the terminals)
 
Update:

Had a very rainy day today and I was in the garage with the TV and Stereo on (solar setup is in garage). Solar input was only around 6W and the battery voltage dropped down to trigger the cutover to AC. So while the AC was charging the battery, the voltage was reading about a tenth of a volt lower than actual. (This is opposite to what I've been seeing with Solar Charging). Now this could cause a problem with overcharging the battery. However, I have my "back to battery" setting at 13.3v. So it switched back to battery well before there would be an overcharging concern.
 
I know this is an old thread, JAS, I worked with Ian about SolarAssistant not working correctly, he sent me some hardware. Didn't change anything, very nice about support. Despite this, I do not recommend buying from Watts247 after my experience as the products are not well tested.
I brought various issues up about it disconnecting and he came up with arbitrary solutions that did not make logical sense even though I tried them and nothing worked. (About SolarAssistant and the MPP unit not being nice to each other)--my solution: have the unit restart with a wifi plug every day.
I think the initial response about the trace is correct. the board does not have a thick enough wire on the board and so the voltage excessively fluctuates based on load. You are not alone, this is what I will call a known issue with the product.
 
@Zz1049

I guess I'll count myself lucky that Solar Assistant has been working well for me for quite a while now. (Maybe because I'm reading the battery SOC from my Victron SmartShunt?)

Ian had worked with MPP support to get me a firmware update. But, I never applied it since SolarAssistant was working for me.

However, I am glad that I'm not the only one seeing wonky voltage readings coming from the unit.

JAS
 
@Zz1049

I guess I'll count myself lucky that Solar Assistant has been working well for me for quite a while now. (Maybe because I'm reading the battery SOC from my Victron SmartShunt?)

Ian had worked with MPP support to get me a firmware update. But, I never applied it since SolarAssistant was working for me.

However, I am glad that I'm not the only one seeing wonky voltage readings coming from the unit.

JAS
It's a bit of a ramble but I read through your posts and was following up really quick before a meeting at work, the full deets:

I have a SOK 100AH and 206AH (Both Heated/BT) versions, in parallel, yeah I know not a great idea mixing but they're pretty close in resistance to the point where wear is not significant. I use the BT function to see the BMS SOC and voltage of the 4 cells in pack + total voltage, I can confirm that with this as well as a DC charger that the voltage on discharge/load of 500W~ voltage will drop by as far as .3V on the batteries per MPP on SA logs. Meanwhile live watching the batteries, the drop is nearly nonexistent outside of fractions of a tenth of a volt. I am using 2AWG cabling for batteries/MPP. On charging, I will notice up to .2~+/-1 voltage fluctuation where the battery reports a higher voltage than is actually present (verified with BT BMS). Both batteries will pretty much uniformly follow each other and remain consistent from full SOC to 0 (or near 0 at least, since BMS disconnects at 10V).

SA(SolarAssistant) will claim some communication error (I troubleshot this like a year ago with Ian/SA) and then cease to connect to WiFi. It appeared as though the failure to communicate with the MPP unit caused SA to lose WiFi (Super weird) support from Ian was to swap the USB comms board out for a RS232...which had...placebo fix effect lol, it happened as often as it did before and the comms difference was negligible so I just left it vs. switching back. Ian thought that there could be a voltage feed coming in through the USB from the MPP causing the error but that was not the case. (I never heard of such a thing but went with it). Nonetheless the solution to the SA bugging out and needing to be reset was hooking it up to a WiFi plug and just having it reset every day at like 4AM which seems to keep the issue away (it usually has the problem between days and freezes). Personally, I think I have a bad Raspberry Pi.

Is your SA hooked up to the batteries directly via the smartshunt? I think having a direct connection to the batt will fix the issue but the SOK's do not have a comms port on the 12V variety. I didn't know I'd experience the voltage fluctuations but bought the BT version to have more accurate reading of SOC which paid off since the MPP doesn't record voltage accurately. I think that the individual who stated the traces were not robust enough on the board is on point because if they didn't cheap out on that connection we would see less of a drop, your situation with the board swap confirms that suspicion.

Ultimately I was curious as to why I've been noticing this because I'm using the unit to offset peak pricing hours with the 300AH batteries and act as backup power for my server. Since we have rooftop solar and battery for the house this is more of a "subsystem" and as I'm trying to dial it in over this last year (rooftop solar was installed 6 mo ago) I've been trying to get things dialed in so it naturally offsets peak hours while still maintaining backup power in case of outage.

Pardon the lengthy response, I appreciate you bringing up the concern/observation and posting on the forum. I found this thread very helpful.

Best wishes! :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: JAS
My SA is connected via hardwire (not using WiFi) if that makes any difference. Yes, I have a cable from the SmartShunt into the SA for monitoring the battery SOC.

I'm using a 300AH Rebel Battery now with bluetooth. It would be nice if SA could somehow communicate directly to the BMS bluetooth, but the SmartShunt is pretty close to what the BMS reads (after some tweaking)
 
Back
Top