diy solar

diy solar

MPP-Solar LVX-6048

HI to all, the other day I had a problem with the grid it went down to 92 volt ac line and my system was giving me the same voltage, I was in solar. I turn off the grid voltage and the voltage went to 120v I was monitoring the imput voltage and went it came normal 120v, turn on the grid. My input is in Apl. Up to know my system has been working ok. Any idea, Thanks
92V per phase? Appliance mode won't disconnect until <65V.
 
Hello from Puerto Rico. I hated the SolarPower and the WatchPower apps. I neve got them to show correct L2 voltage and power, only L1 so I went with Solar Assistant. I bought their Orange Pi 4 complete kit, around $200 shipped from South Africa. Wow, big difference and it can integrate my two Xiaoxiang 100A BMSs while the inverter cannot do it natively. Something to consider. Blessings from your neighbor island.

Do you really mean Orange Pi 4? I have it running on a Pi W which is old and not supported although frankly it seems to be doing very well. I was going to upgrade to something supported but you can not buy actual PIs and their site only says the Orange Pi 3 LTS is supported and that is getting on a bit. I am fascinated if they are shipping the Orange Pi 4 or Orange Pi 4 LTS
 
I never have 13 set above 20 and have had a fault 12. Although with three inverters that would take me to 60 amps total. Maybe I will try to set it to 15. But I know MPP is working on a new firmware version that will come out soon.


Ian30, did they ever release that version you mentioned? 6306 is the last one still that I know of.

I've just started rolling backwards to see what versions changed certain behaviors.

When I put 6305 on, my fault 12 on charging over 60A went away. I can charge at 120A from grid again!

Loading 6304 now. I'm searching for the version that changed how setting #10 worked. There used to be a way to charge from grid while the inverter was on (or so I think I remember). Right now you have to deplete the batteries or turn the inverter off. I'd like to be able to schedule topping batteries off at the end of the day, should solar not be good that day.
 
yes the amount of solar does matter. That's where the caps fixed my issues.

Well, finally have solar running into both units (panels are still not on the roof, just laying on my back patio). Definitely getting the LED flicker now and it is definitely solar related. When on battery, I don't get any flicker, but once I start feeding solar I see the flicker. It's not terrible, just intermittent. I can really only see it in the bathrooms with no windows. My house has a bunch of windows everywhere else so I don't have the lights on much when the sun is out. I guess I am going to have to look into the capacitor setup. Only pushing about 1100w to the unit that is on batteries. The other unit as about 2200w but it is still grid tied so no flicker that I can see. I guess the battery/solar at the same time combo is the issue?
 
Well, finally have solar running into both units (panels are still not on the roof, just laying on my back patio). Definitely getting the LED flicker now and it is definitely solar related. When on battery, I don't get any flicker, but once I start feeding solar I see the flicker. It's not terrible, just intermittent. I can really only see it in the bathrooms with no windows. My house has a bunch of windows everywhere else so I don't have the lights on much when the sun is out. I guess I am going to have to look into the capacitor setup. Only pushing about 1100w to the unit that is on batteries. The other unit as about 2200w but it is still grid tied so no flicker that I can see. I guess the battery/solar at the same time combo is the issue?
You can see the cap I installed in the R panel box, bottom L corner. It did help with lights flickering during everyday use but not when the washer agitates. The one I purchased is below, I'm pretty sure someone else shared it in this thread or somewhere else on here.
uxcell Ceiling Fan Capacitor CBB61 20uF 450V AC 2 Wires Metalized Polypropylene Film Capacitors 58x31x57mm for Water Pump Motor Generator https://a.co/d/4hczaUd

I found running with setting 5 BLU has the least flicker, it's no worse than the grid when I'm charging and slightly worse when the batteries hit float. Adding a 240v minisplit that runs pretty much 24/7 really helped with the flicker all around.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20221226_190607__01__01__01.jpg
    IMG_20221226_190607__01__01__01.jpg
    336 KB · Views: 17
I have been browsing and saw another thread where someone just stopped using the charge controllers and bought separate units to charge the batteries. I might actually try that. The EG4 controllers are $400 which seems like a lot of money to experiment with, but if it makes the flicker go away, might be worth it. These LVX6048s are so damn noisy, I might just swap them out. I really so want the EG4 8kw units to work out of the box, but everything I have read is pushing me away.
 
I have been browsing and saw another thread where someone just stopped using the charge controllers and bought separate units to charge the batteries. I might actually try that. The EG4 controllers are $400 which seems like a lot of money to experiment with, but if it makes the flicker go away, might be worth it. These LVX6048s are so damn noisy, I might just swap them out. I really so want the EG4 8kw units to work out of the box, but everything I have read is pushing me away.
I've been running thru the paces with the EG4 SCC's. I had originally setup for high string voltage and needed a SCC that could handle over 250V. I see you saw the photo of the finished install.

These work well, in good sun I'm getting over capacity of the string. String is 4240 watts and I see 4.3Kv coming in. I intend to do a video on these at some point but I've learned that it is best to let the units run for a period and see if problems develop.

I had one SCC set a fault for code 01 two days ago which is Bus Soft Start Failure. I'd contact support about it but I'm leaving on a trip end of the week and won't be back until after Labor Day. I noticed before the code set the SCC's would split the loads from the inverters fairly equally once the battery was charged to 100% SOC but noticed yesterday the one that set the code is not contributing to loads once 100% SOC is hit. I tried setting charge voltages 0.1V above the other SCC but didn't make a difference. I can shut the other SCC down and then it will carry the load. I do not use battery communication, the SCC's are complete standalone chargers.

I won't have any answers until after Labor Day. If you have some time to wait until SS determines what is occurring might be best. The unit works well otherwise, no other faults or problems. I've been running the upper one since July 4th and it works perfectly.
 
I've been running thru the paces with the EG4 SCC's. I had originally setup for high string voltage and needed a SCC that could handle over 250V. I see you saw the photo of the finished install.
Saw it, saved the pic in my solar folder, and then lost the link on the forums :p Thanks for chiming in and hope you have a good trip.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zwy
Kind of off topic, but I am laughing at myself because it is so damn hot here in Texas that I have been too lazy to climb up on my metal roof and finish (start?) the racking and get my panels up. I have watched quite a few of @Will Prowse videos and more than once laughed at his driveway array setup. I have said to myself more than once, "I would never do that". I guess because I don't' have my driveway poured yet. :p
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6414.jpg
    IMG_6414.jpg
    274.9 KB · Views: 14
Can anyone confirm if you can feed the LVX with a jumped 120V to charge batteries?
I want to use a TP6048 with a 120V inverter generator I have hanging on my wall collecting dust as a charger during cloudy days. I've used it with a noisy 240V gen in the past but it was a pain.
Why couldn't I jump the 120V from the inv gen to L1 and L2? What could I break if I tried?

Sorry for bringing back a tired thread.
 
Back
Top