Eber
Student of MacGyver
But you never see yours say the batteries are charged when they are not?
MPP-Solar LVX-6048
- Thread starter jasonhc73
- Start date
COMpuLANdia
Tom
No, no issues with battery charging.
Is there a power saving/search mode with the new firmware?
COMpuLANdia
Tom
Nothing else has changed compared to older firmwares, just feeding to the grid is working with v63.02
iamrich
Solar Addict
Are you using grid feedback? I didn't think any of the MPP solar units are listed (UL or otherwise) for use on grid.
Sanwizard
Solar Wizard
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- Feb 2, 2021
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The LV6548 is listed, but not for grid-tie. According to MPP Solar, the new LVX6048WP will be listed for Grid -tie. Its also a low frequency inverter, and water proof( no fans like SMA)
They have not shipped yet though as far as I know.
iamrich
Solar Addict
Interesting. I am trying to decide between the Growatt 6000T-DVM and ??? The Growatt has what I need (Low Freq, enough solar, enough power out) and is listed (Intertek). I have a LV2424 right now in my garage (off grid) and love it, but I don't want to be hassled when I hook up grid tied later.
Sanwizard
Solar Wizard
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Yeah, same here. My current on-grid SMA inverters have 600V DC capacity. The LVX6048WP will also be 600V, and since they are waterproof, they can go in the exact same spot outdoors. They will also take me from 6KW to 24KW (4 units) at half the cost, plus enable me to hook up my DIY batteries, and re-use the great LG solar panels with zero changes. I will only use grid as backup to feed the inverters if needed. (These will be in South Carolina US, so no snow worries, but hurricanes may cause the sun to not shine for days). I already cancelled the grid tie contract.
I am currently using MPP LV6548's for another house, and they work flawless with DIY batteries, but those are totally off-grid.
COMpuLANdia
Tom
LVX6048 are not UL listed. Primarily I'm feeding back to the grid with my SMA Sunnyboy which is in parallel to 3 LVX6048, but if I generate excess energy, I also let the LVX6048 feed into the grid. I don't live in the US by the way.
Shog9
New Member
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- Mar 27, 2021
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I finally tested my LVX6048 with my 240V well pump that draws 63A at startup. It had no problem starting and running it alone. When I added a space heater on one 120V leg it still managed to start the pump but the inverter shut down after 5-10 seconds with error 07. Based on the screen it was only using about 5.6kVA total which is 1kVA less than the manual specifies for the overload value but the leg imbalance must have been the culprit. Has anyone else tested imbalanced loads?
iamrich
Solar Addict
Did you get any further with testing? I am seriously considering this model as it appears to check all the boxes for my new house. I don't have any big draws like your well pump, just small AC units, water heater, dryer.
Not with the well pump. I've been charging my EV off of it for months though (usually set to 16A at 240V). I also ran 3 big upright freezers with it during the summer, although the modern freezers are so efficient that this inverter could probably handle a couple dozen of them at once.
Hi, for those of you that are looking for update 63.04 for LVX6048 go to https://easyupload.io/g9yr61 .
Good luck
Good luck
KitShickers
New Member
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- Mar 14, 2022
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Hello all. Ive been lurking for a while trying to learn as much as I can from you all. Ive decided to take the plunge and order two of the LVX6048 along with 3 Pytes 48V batteries on Watts247. I plan to pair them with 40 335W 48v Qcell panels. Is there any chance someone could advise me the best way to wire those 40 panels to best take advantage of the inverters? Im fairly new to this, and planning the best configuration is a bit confusing for me. Thanks in advance!
iamrich
Solar Addict
Max PV input is 6kw I think, so you would likely be limited to 36 panels unless you want to over panel. I would probably run it 9S2P to each unit though a combiner box. That should put you at 6030w (423v 19a) open circuit. Not much room for error (cold temps) though.
KitShickers
New Member
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- Mar 14, 2022
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- 6
Thanks for your input. Yeah I was planning to overpanel a bit to help with higher production in the winter. Could you elaborate a little on your last statement, on how cold temps might effect it being so close? Or point me to a noob room that might explain it? lol Judging by your math it looks like overpaneling might not be possible with 335W panels.
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iamrich
Solar Addict
When figuring wattage, you have two values. Max voltage and max amperage.
Max Voltage you never want to exceed (ever). When you series panels, you add the voltage, so if your panels have a open circuit voltage of 47v (if the specs I looked at are correct), you will end up at 423V (27v under the max). That leaves you about 5% buffer. Most of what I have read recommends more like 20%, but it all has to do with temperature. The colder your area, the more buffer you need. Panels actually work better in cold weather (all else being equal). It doesn't get that cold where I live so I would be ok with running that voltage. I don't know how to calculate the ratio, but colder it is, the higher your voltage will be. The other side of the coin though is that you want to run as high a voltage (safely) as you can. The MPP will milk more power out of a higher voltage level.
Amperage is a little more flexible, especially with the unit you picked. I think your unit is rated to at least (Edit) 27a, so you are under that.
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