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MPPT Charge Controller

It's usually worth the price to get your unit either from a reputable dealer online or Amazon. Ebay is more risk than it's usually worth and their "warranty" is usually worth the paper it's written on.
 
Am I right by thinking that if I go with the 150l60 Victron it would allow me to expand panel wise in the future if needed?
Asking because I don’t know…
How would a warranty work thru an eBay seller?
What happens if the eBay seller closes shop or if they tell you to pound sand 4 years from now?
Good point!
 
Well at a 150v PV input you could do 6s strings and a lot of those in parallel. Just sayin'. :)

At that point though you're running into the capacity of your battery bank to take the charge. 12v system, that would be 60a X 12v = 720w. On the same controller running the 24v system you would get 60a X 24v = 1440w so you couldn't really use more of those panels on that controller anyways and you'd have to make a second set of panels/SCC to add in more charging capacity.
 
Well at a 150v PV input you could do 6s strings
I wouldn't. 5S but not 6S. The Voc is 22.41V. 6S would be 134.46V. That would easily raise to 150V in freezing conditions. If the panels never see freezing temps then 6S might be OK.
 
I'm planning to purchase 2x 60a SCCs does the brand matter?
Cheapest here is Renogy, and Epever, then Outback and Victron.
Which would you guys recommend?
 
Avoid Renology, they're tanking and probably aren't going to be around much longer. After that I'd look at the EPEver's for budget or Victron if you want the fancier options like Bluetooth and internet access and such.
 
Avoid Renology, they're tanking and probably aren't going to be around much longer. After that I'd look at the EPEver's for budget or Victron if you want the fancier options like Bluetooth and internet access and such.
Okay, good to know.
For connecting multiple MPPTs to a LFP Battery build, do the SCCs need to be able to connect and communicate to each other as some people seem to imply?
 
If all MPPT together have CC not in excess of max current desired, and all have CV low enough for BMS/cells to not have a "runner" and disconnect, they shouldn't have to know about each other any more than they know about an inverter load. Make sure max current is acceptable over temperatures battery could be.

Some SCC fail to do proper absorption cycle depending on timing of applied loads.

Optimum is if BMS can tell them to slow down so it has time to do balancing. That is available in some systems, haven't heard of it in any stand-alone SCC.
 
Asking because I don’t know…
How would a warranty work thru an eBay seller?
What happens if the eBay seller closes shop or if they tell you to pound sand 4 years from now?
I think most companies after purchase have you register the warranty online directly with them.
 
Well I did order a Victron Smart Solar Bluetooth MPPT Solar Charge Controllers - Smart Solar 150/60-Tr
Cost was $485 with a coupon code. Purchases from Inverters R Us.
But now this leads me to another question. I have fuses installed now on my current 12v panels between the panels and the SCC.
If I switch my Panels to 24v. Will I need to install 24v fuses between the panels and SCC?
 
my current 12v panels between the panels and the SCC.
If I switch my Panels to 24v.
You know that “12V” and “24V” are just marketing terms and the actual voltage of your array is what matters, right?

Are you putting your panels into a combination of series and parallel to increase the voltage?

There are a few folks here that can help optimise your array. Just ask.
 
You know that “12V” and “24V” are just marketing terms and the actual voltage of your array is what matters, right?

Are you putting your panels into a combination of series and parallel to increase the voltage?

There are a few folks here that can help optimise your array. Just ask.
Yes I am putting 2 panels on 3 strings.
 
Yes I am putting 2 panels on 3 strings.
So you mean 2S3P. You will need a fuse on each of the 3 strings.

Unless you have a lot of shading issues you should consider going with 3S2P. It will give you higher voltage which will have a slightly improved lower light performance. And with only 2 strings you don't need to deal with fusing each string.
 
So you mean 2S3P. You will need a fuse on each of the 3 strings.

Unless you have a lot of shading issues you should consider going with 3S2P. It will give you higher voltage which will have a slightly improved lower light performance. And with only 2 strings you don't need to deal with fusing each string.
We have no shade issues. Currently I have power going to a combiner box w/breakers. I will keep that I mind after I install the charge controller.
Don't screw to many things up at once.
 
Midnight Classic 250, 63A $1050
Classic 150 is 96A $925


MSTE Sunny Island Charger 50A is 600 GBP ($800)
Your price quotes for Midnite Classic controllers is awfully high. Are you not in the USA?
BTW I found a current clearance price for Midnite Classic 200 SL for only $461.45 Such a good price I had to buy one as a back up for my existing one.
 
I just paid $635 for a Classic 150 from Northern Arizona Wind & Sun, best price I could find.

Note that the SL doesn't allow for remote monitoring, if that's important to you spend the money for the full version. It will work in "follow me" mode with the full version and in that case the Classic will report battery status if you're using a Whizbang Jr., that's exactly what I'm doing.
 
Ok guys I have the Victron MPPT hooked up. At this point I still have the panels hooked in parallel (12V).
If I hook my panels in series (24V) and I keep battery bank at 12V. Can I still run my potable 12V charger (When needed) to the battery bank without damaging the charge controller?
 
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