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MRBF without fuse holder

With two, yes. All wiring would match the total available current.
But three or more, no.
So this is improper? It looks to me that all wires are protected.

A(fuse)>>b<<(fuse)B
u
s
C(fuse)>>s<<(fuse)D
b
a
E(fuse)>>r

Oh my, I might as well just start linking fuse together for conductor at this point.

A(fuse)>>(fuse)b(fuse)<<(fuse)B
u
s
C(fuse)>>(fuse)s(fuse)<<(fuse)D
b
a
E(fuse)>>(fuse)r

That's 20 contact points in fuses alone😱
 
It does make me wonder though, how that little bit of plastic prevents an arc from jumping from the base to the stud.

Voltage is low enough not to jump a gap and start current flowing.
Current is high enough that if an arc was drawn, it could keep flowing.

I have trouble getting my stick welder started, fuses to workpiece or nothing happens.
But once I draw an arc it continues over a considerable gap. That's 80Vrms 125A.

Whatever is inside the fuse is sufficient to extinguish the arc.
"Interrupt Rating :10000 AMP @ 14Vdc 5000 AMP @ 32Vdc 2000 AMP @ 58Vdc"
 
So this is improper? It looks to me that all wires are protected.

A(fuse)>>b<<(fuse)B
u
s
C(fuse)>>s<<(fuse)D
b
a
E(fuse)>>r

Oh my, I might as well just start linking fuse together for conductor at this point.

A(fuse)>>(fuse)b(fuse)<<(fuse)B
u
s
C(fuse)>>(fuse)s(fuse)<<(fuse)D
b
a
E(fuse)>>(fuse)r

That's 20 contact points in fuses alone😱
I can't seem to follow this. Maybe it's too close to my bedtime. lol
 
That is the bit of plastic I was referring to. Just that little bit there on the bottom of the post insulates the current from the base metal bar to the post

The cheaper knock offs use plain ABS plastic or cheaper. That has a much lower melting point than the phenolic or bakealite and in a lot of cases it is colored with carbon so it will conduct at higher voltages. Even at 48v or less there is some small leakage current that can cause minor heating over time.
 
Are you guys talking about something like this?


So this is OK to use to fuse a 48V 50ah battery?

That is what is being discussed but as noted in post # 29 it can only quench a 2000 Amp arc at 48V nominal and that is generally insufficient for LiFePO4 batteries.
 
That is what is being discussed but as noted in post # 29 it can only quench a 2000 Amp arc at 48V nominal and that is generally insufficient for LiFePO4 batteries.
So what can we use? Can we use a breaker in combination of one of these?
 
In the end you have to make your own decision but here is a good discussion to help :

 
Are you guys talking about something like this?


So this is OK to use to fuse a 48V 50ah battery?

I have opted to use these, in your link. They should be sufficient, and is what they are designed for. Most people will say go with Bluesea systems (well known/quality company in the fusing world). I opted to use Southbend brand (a company which also has a good track record.)

I am wary about anything from that joinfworld after I bought a set of bus bars, upon taking them apart, they are extremely thin metal, like the width of a dime, and supposedly can carry 600amps of current.

I originally used the little black and red breakers that I seen you post in another thread, they worked for over a year, but they do get warm, and I have been warned of the dangers. MRBF are a much better fusing solution.
 

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