My EG4 server rack batteries don't fit in the EG4 battery rack.

[jco]

I was able to get all my battery mounting holes lined up (after a little lift here and there) but the battery side brackets don't get all the way to the vertical mounts before hitting the back panel. I still have a 1/2" space and the only way to get them fully seated is to remove the back panel. My rack also came assembled so I'm guessing there's a problem where that happens. I tried contacting SS but getting through is an issue with how busy they are right now. I "spoke" with someone else in the forum and his measurement from the back panel to the front vertical mounts measured 19". For some reason mine are only 18". Has anyone else had problems getting their batteries in completely without removing the back pan?

I just got my shipment from Signature Solar a few days ago and had the same issue. I have a possible explanation and two solutions to fix the issue. I think the specific rack you got was configured to fit the newer "V2 batteries", the ones with the front panel display and the fire suppressant feature. I think the distance from the back of the battery to the mounting tabs in front is slightly shorter. I think this was done to fix a potential issue with the foldable pull-out handles coming into contact with the buss bars on either side if folded out (could cause a very bad electrical safety hazard). Unfortunately the original Lifepower batteries are too long, will contact the back ventilation panel of the enclosure and not be close enough to align with the mounting tabs on the front of the battery to the rack mounting holes. When I ordered my kit it had the V2 batteries with the Schneider equipment but I substituted the original Lifepower batteries (6). So I guess the configuration may have been carried over in the ordering process.

Potential Fix #1: Get longer mounting screws (6mm x 25mm, 1.00 pitch Philips) along with Nylon spacers (0.257" ID, 1/2" length) and swap out the spacer and clear film washer on the original mounting screws. NOTE: the nylon spacer goes BETWEEN the mounting holes and the battery mounting tabs when you put the screws through as shown in photo. I spent roughly $16 on the hardware for 2 screw sets / battery. This also allowed me to fix some of the spacing issues but would only allow for typically two of the four mounting screws to line up due to the issues mentioned above. When screwed in the batteries aren't going anywhere. I think the elongated tab holes sometime mentioned on the LL battery version might be a better solution for the alignment issue long term.

Potential Fix #2: After thinking about this and sleeping on it, I realized a potentially cleaner fix. Before you move any of the batteries into the rack (which I already did and didn't want to move all 6 batteries myself in/out again, hence my fix #1), simply unscrew each side mounted assembly (two vertical bars on each side, with rails attached) with the screws top and bottom on front and back vertical rails... and move the entire assembly forward roughly 1/2"+. Then remount the top and bottom screws on front and back. There are 3 mounting screws that you will also have to remove from outside of each side, so you will need to remove each side cover to access these (4 screws each from the outside). Once you move the rail assembly forward and remount it you will have to drill 3 new mounting holes on each side, thread tap to have everything remounted and the vertical racking tied into the three front forward mounts on each side. A bit more work but a cleaner solution. That still doesn't fix the alignment hole issues but at least you can mount your batteries with potentially two screws / battery and fix the front / back spacing issues.

I know the folks at Signature Solar do there best for their customers considering their order load and growth. Now I just have to inspect my solar panels which arrived with a destroyed pallet under them...

Hope this helps,
-Joe

 

[CoastieBalls1790]

I just got my shipment from Signature Solar a few days ago and had the same issue. I have a possible explanation and two solutions to fix the issue. I think the specific rack you got was configured to fit the newer "V2 batteries", the ones with the front panel display and the fire suppressant feature. I think the distance from the back of the battery to the mounting tabs in front is slightly shorter. I think this was done to fix a potential issue with the foldable pull-out handles coming into contact with the buss bars on either side if folded out (could cause a very bad electrical safety hazard). Unfortunately the original Lifepower batteries are too long, will contact the back ventilation panel of the enclosure and not be close enough to align with the mounting tabs on the front of the battery to the rack mounting holes. When I ordered my kit it had the V2 batteries with the Schneider equipment but I substituted the original Lifepower batteries (6). So I guess the configuration may have been carried over in the ordering process.

Potential Fix #1: Get longer mounting screws (6mm x 25mm, 1.00 pitch Philips) along with Nylon spacers (0.257" ID, 1/2" length) and swap out the spacer and clear film washer on the original mounting screws. NOTE: the nylon spacer goes BETWEEN the mounting holes and the battery mounting tabs when you put the screws through as shown in photo. I spent roughly $16 on the hardware for 2 screw sets / battery. This also allowed me to fix some of the spacing issues but would only allow for typically two of the four mounting screws to line up due to the issues mentioned above. When screwed in the batteries aren't going anywhere. I think the elongated tab holes sometime mentioned on the LL battery version might be a better solution for the alignment issue long term.

Potential Fix #2: After thinking about this and sleeping on it, I realized a potentially cleaner fix. Before you move any of the batteries into the rack (which I already did and didn't want to move all 6 batteries myself in/out again, hence my fix #1), simply unscrew each side mounted assembly (two vertical bars on each side, with rails attached) with the screws top and bottom on front and back vertical rails... and move the entire assembly forward roughly 1/2"+. Then remount the top and bottom screws on front and back. There are 3 mounting screws that you will also have to remove from outside of each side, so you will need to remove each side cover to access these (4 screws each from the outside). Once you move the rail assembly forward and remount it you will have to drill 3 new mounting holes on each side, thread tap to have everything remounted and the vertical racking tied into the three front forward mounts on each side. A bit more work but a cleaner solution. That still doesn't fix the alignment hole issues but at least you can mount your batteries with potentially two screws / battery and fix the front / back spacing issues.

I know the folks at Signature Solar do there best for their customers considering their order load and growth. Now I just have to inspect my solar panels which arrived with a destroyed pallet under them...

Hope this helps,
-Joe

Thank you for the detailed response. It's interesting that the rack v battery configuration wouldn't be a "known" issue at Signature Solar at this point and something that they could at least advise they're customers about. I tried contacting then several times and after sitting on hold for long periods of time and leaving call back requests I still haven't received any response from their customer service. I know they are VERY busy and trying to keep up with growth/demand but I'm not even a little impressed with their customer service. The longer screws with spacers was something I had considered after (not getting any help from Signature) and inspecting the rack to see what modifications would need to be made to move the vertical mounting point forward. I paid extra for an assembled rack for a reason and didn't have the time to add extra disassembly, modifications and reassembly. Especially after, as you, I had loaded all 6 batteries into the rack myself. My fix (permanent or temporary depending on future available time) was to take the angle side mounting brackets for each battery and flip them all 180 so that they are no longer flush with the front of the batteries but sit roughly 1/2" further back and closer the the vertical bars. Hopefully Signature Solar will correct this issue or at least let customers know it can be a problem they might face. Good luck with your panels.

Thanks again.

 

[Jeff Motes]

I encountered similar difficulties with alignment of the mounting screws. Keep in mind screws connecting the batteries to the server rack are also the only means of bonding the battery to the frame and hence to your ground. You should try to get at least one screw in.

 

[DougfromdaUP]

I've put thousands of pieces of gear in racks over the years, and always thought that the brackets were a convenience for holding the equipment while it was being mounted. Many times things couldn't be screwed in while sitting on the backet. You pry the front up, install the top screws then pull the mounting ears tight with the bottom screws. Then do the brackets on the back, if it has any. Done. And it's solidly attached and bonded.

 

[abcba]

FYI - have a 'new' shipped in mid December EG4 6 high battery rack with the door, etc.

On this rack the shelves for the batteries are welded on and cannot move up/down/ at all.

have the new V2 batteries and none of the bracket's holes line up (as expected <g>)
but changing the height of shelves isn't possible with welded shelves.

The batteries seem to fit in rack fine except for the screws to hold each battery in the rack.

Looks like if you remove the handles from the brackets
( V2 EG4-LL 48V battery I recv'd had handles that fold back on the mounting bracket)
... that the bottom hole for handle when opened up will sort of line up with
the bottom hole on the rack but want to keep my handles so not going that route.

But wanted anyone that is following EG4 rack discussions to know SOME
racks have welded shelves now. So might not work with non-EG4 batteries

I got interesting wheels that seem to be ??? clones of a Korean wheel from FOOT MASTER

GD-60 Series | Leveling Casters | FOOT MASTER & Caster & Wheels | G-DOK

www.footmastercasters.com

not sure if they match the FOOT MASTER specs for a GD-60 caster yet.

 

[Bigblockcutlass123]

I see no style casters years ago. I think we use them on a surface plate stand in a machine shop. I really didn't care for him that much.

 

[gregduff]

FYI - have a 'new' shipped in mid December EG4 6 high battery rack with the door, etc.

On this rack the shelves for the batteries are welded on and cannot move up/down/ at all.

have the new V2 batteries and none of the bracket's holes line up (as expected <g>)
but changing the height of shelves isn't possible with welded shelves.

The batteries seem to fit in rack fine except for the screws to hold each battery in the rack.

Looks like if you remove the handles from the brackets
( V2 EG4-LL 48V battery I recv'd had handles that fold back on the mounting bracket)
... that the bottom hole for handle when opened up will sort of line up with
the bottom hole on the rack but want to keep my handles so not going that route.

But wanted anyone that is following EG4 rack discussions to know SOME
racks have welded shelves now. So might not work with non-EG4 batteries

I got interesting wheels that seem to be ??? clones of a Korean wheel from FOOT MASTER
View attachment 127082

GD-60 Series | Leveling Casters | FOOT MASTER & Caster & Wheels | G-DOK

www.footmastercasters.com

not sure if they match the FOOT MASTER specs for a GD-60 caster yet.

On 01/12/2023 I received my order from Signature Solar containing a 6 high preassembled EG4 rack and six EG4-LL 48V (V2) batteries. Like abcba, the bolt/screw holes for the batteries do not align with the holes in the rack. Sent a request to technical support and they suggested I lift the batteries until the holes align and put the bolts in. That will not work without some sort of support between the battery and the rack shelves given the weight of the battery. Pretty disappointed I spent so much money to receive a bundle that doesn't fit together very well. I'm still appealing to Signature Solar on this issue so hopefully they come up with some sort of a remedy.

 

[Koldsimer]

On 01/12/2023 I received my order from Signature Solar containing a 6 high preassembled EG4 rack and six EG4-LL 48V (V2) batteries. Like abcba, the bolt/screw holes for the batteries do not align with the holes in the rack. Sent a request to technical support and they suggested I lift the batteries until the holes align and put the bolts in. That will not work without some sort of support between the battery and the rack shelves given the weight of the battery. Pretty disappointed I spent so much money to receive a bundle that doesn't fit together very well. I'm still appealing to Signature Solar on this issue so hopefully they come up with some sort of a remedy.

I can't believe they are still selling this rack without some kind of warning that the holes don't line up.

I was more than disappointed to find the exact same issue and no real fix offered from SS.

The fix is easy, really. The holes provided in the mounting ears have no relief for vertical alignment. The mounting ears for some modules use a hole that allows for infinite vertical adjustment rather than just a round hole. Swap module ears and you can securely mount them in the rack.

I asked them to just swap out my module mounting tabs and got nowhere so best of luck to you!

 

[Wily]

I can't believe they are still selling this rack without some kind of warning that the holes don't line up.

I was more than disappointed to find the exact same issue and no real fix offered from SS.

The fix is easy, really. The holes provided in the mounting ears have no relief for vertical alignment. The mounting ears for some modules use a hole that allows for infinite vertical adjustment rather than just a round hole. Swap module ears and you can securely mount them in the rack.

I asked them to just swap out my module mounting tabs and got nowhere so best of luck to you!

Yes, I just gave up, No mounting screws for me.

 

[abcba]

Decided I'm just going to tap in some screw threads where they are needed for the EG4-LL's when I get time.
These new v2 batteries have a lot of adjustment in theslots in the ears for the mounting bolts so I can probably make it work with my skills.

I also decided those casters are not meant to be FULL time use at the weight of the full EG4 battery rack (and someday was thinking of adding the 3 high rack to the top, as some have done, to get 9 EG4-LL's on wheels) so tried to find a 'more' heavy duty caster solution.

If the ones that now (?) ship with the rack are a 'good' clone of a GD-60 caster it would be over 600 lbs per caster but it looked like it was struggling with 4 batteries in rack until I put the leveling foot down on the concrete floor (which is how I think they are intended to be used).
[ from web site - Optimum leveling ease occurs at 50% of 4 casters total capacity ]

Load Capacity / 1pcs	280 kg == 617 lbs
Load Capacity / 4pcs	560 kg == 1278 lbs from the foot master web site - may be limit it levels well, not the actual limit

But these leveling GD-60 wheels use a caster plate holes pattern that NO one else seems to use.

Size of Plate	73 x 73 mm
Plate Hole Centers	58 x 58 mm : 58 mm = 2.28 inches = 2 9/32 inches
Plate Hole	7 or 8.5 mm

If we go for GD-80 size leveling caster (to get a higher weight limit) those caters use a different pattern

Load Capacity / 1pcs	550 kg == 1212 lbs
Load Capacity / 4pcs	1,100 kg == 2425 lbs again from web site

Size of Plate	90 x 90 mm
Plate Hole Centers	70 x 70 mm : 70 mm = 2.76 inches = 2 3/4 inches
Plate Hole	9 mm

so that won't be a no drama swap candidate even if you wanted to buy 4 of the GD-80's.

Seems the nearest 'standard' size plate on swivel caster wheels (with locks) that would be available
in a > 750 lbs per caster is the 4 x 4 1/2 inches plate

Lots to choose from but they are expensive for a set of 4.

Amazon has some non 4 x 4.5 casters rated for > 750 lbs but
with a non-standard plate size. That isn't what I was looking for.

With non-standard plate size if I pick/buy a dud caster I want to have other options with same mounting holes !

But seems I'll have to drill/tap holes for different casters, no matter what I do if I don't
go with the leveling feet down solution

So maybe I'll have to settle and use the leveling feet mode of the casters that shipped with the rack
.
Really wanted 24/7/365/decades full time wheels casters like the pictures on Sig Solar web site
but now understand the problems they are having figuring out a good solution at a price sensitive cost.

If you can weld, these looked interesting as you would be able to use any 4x4.5 inch plate caster it seems

https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-caster-pad-quick-release-4du20/i/G3222922/ (available for more money at other vendors)

they are available for other standard caster plate sizes too, but larger plate adapters might not fit to weld on the foot on the bottom of the EG4 rack.

so, you could weld 4 of these on the 4 corners of the rack and slip in whatever 4 x 4.5 inch caster catches your eye and doesn't drain your wallet.
But, of course, more cost (4 plate adapters AND 4 casters) but no tapping for bolts

I needed the doors / enclosed rack as grandkids at times - so willing to put in some effort into the rack.
Have to get Raceways, etc. also so more 'stuff' in my setup.

 

[abcba]

william-green

BTW

I think the ear's / mounting tabs you are thinking of are the ones I got on the EG4-LL (v2) batteries

but they don't work to line up with the holes in my rack as the one hole that was close is under the bottom attachment point of the folding handle.

Batteries are too heavy for me to move them without the folding handles but if you are strong enough to not need the handles
one hole in each rack slot seems to align if you take off the handle and use that screw hole on that longer slotted mounting bracket / ear.

But not really a solution for most I suspect.

You probably need four bolts anyway to hold the battery in the rack if it tips over - but I'm not a mechanical engineer <g>

 

[iamrich]

I was able to get all my battery mounting holes lined up (after a little lift here and there) but the battery side brackets don't get all the way to the vertical mounts before hitting the back panel. I still have a 1/2" space and the only way to get them fully seated is to remove the back panel. My rack also came assembled so I'm guessing there's a problem where that happens. I tried contacting SS but getting through is an issue with how busy they are right now. I "spoke" with someone else in the forum and his measurement from the back panel to the front vertical mounts measured 19". For some reason mine are only 18". Has anyone else had problems getting their batteries in completely without removing the back panel?

How did you manage to overcome this? I just flipped the ears so they face the other way and it worked. The battery sticks out a bit farther, but no clearance issues that I can see. I got one battery in and screwed down and all looks good. Maybe I should skip the other five

 

[Johno1066]

Well I needed more batteries and when SS advertised a free rack with a purchase of 3 or more batteries I went for it without checking the racks dimentions. So LO and behold that rack will not fit into the space I have available so had npo trouble fitting the batteries. I am 79 years old and still wonder how I would have managed to lift the higher batteries into the rack anyhow. Ended up with all 6 batteries standing face up under the 2 inverters I have with the bus bars taped with the conductors attached and the insulators bolted onto the battery ears to hold the bus bars on either side. End of story is I have a big empty metal box hanging around in my shed.

 

[iamrich]

I managed to get everything bolted up and started charging the batteries. I actually ended up getting two batteries with the slotted ears. If I had half a brain, I would have moved the captive nut in line with the slot, but instead I drilled new holes to keep the bolt spacing uniform (like that matters). Overall, pretty happy with the fit and finish other than the ears. If the new ear is the default going forward, it will be an easy install as long as you move the captive hardware. Still had to flip the ears over to make the longer batteries fit, but it didn't cause any issues other than the ears are as pretty with the bare metal facing outward.

 

[Browse]

Since the racks they are sending out all have shelves, the best approach to resolving the alignment issue is to provide battery mounting ears with vertical slots on the front. If the weight of the battery is sitting on the shelf, then the mounting bolts are simply keeping it from sliding out. They can easily have sets of ears fabricated for each of their battery versions with these slots, sent out to anyone with an issue. It would be cheaper than shipping a new rack that probably won't align again.

 

[iamrich]

Since the racks they are sending out all have shelves, the best approach to resolving the alignment issue is to provide battery mounting ears with vertical slots on the front. If the weight of the battery is sitting on the shelf, then the mounting bolts are simply keeping it from sliding out. They can easily have sets of ears fabricated for each of their battery versions with these slots, sent out to anyone with an issue. It would be cheaper than shipping a new rack that probably won't align again.

Pretty sure that is what they are doing now. Out of the six batteries I got, two had ear as you are describing. They still didn't line up with the hardware, but the captive nut hardware is simple to move up or down so it will work. If you look at the picture I attached you can see them on battery 2 and 3 from the top.

 

[Browse]

Pretty sure that is what they are doing now. Out of the six batteries I got, two had ear as you are describing. They still didn't line up with the hardware, but the captive nut hardware is simple to move up or down so it will work. If you look at the picture I attached you can see them on battery 2 and 3 from the top.

OK...I see now. And your resolution to the batteries protruding past the rear of the rack was to reverse the direction of the ears. Stinks that they aren't painted on the reverse side. I took my rack apart and moved the battery mounting rails forward by 2 screw holes or about an inch. Kind of strange how many issues people are having with a basic piece of mechanical hardware that should simply work. Just takes some precise measurement in design and fabrication.

 

[CoastieBalls1790]

How did you manage to overcome this? I just flipped the ears so they face the other way and it worked. The battery sticks out a bit farther, but no clearance issues that I can see. I got one battery in and screwed down and all looks good. Maybe I should skip the other five

That's exactly how I worked around the issue. Yeah, it's not really a perfect fix but it works for now and it's better than spending hours on the phone with customer support just to have them tell me to pack it up for return/replacement.

 

[SignatureSolarJames]

 

[CoastieBalls1790]

Glad to see that it's been officially addressed with a recommended mod. Thanks for sharing the video.