diy solar

diy solar

My RV Build: 600 watt Roof Mounted Panels and 400 watt ground mounted Panels

I have started Phase III of my build, adding 350 more watts of flexible panels to the roof. This is the final phase

I measured first with cardboard and then placed the panels. My batteries max out at 60 charging amps, and currently the 600 watts of roof mounted panels and 400 watts of flexible panels deliver 45 charging amps max. With these two more panels, I will be close to the 60 amp max. Amazing how much the shading devices like the TV antenna kills the production on the roof. The other reason I added these, is I expect 2-5 amps extra production for cloudy days. Now that I have been camping a few times with this setup, I'm amazed at how many cloudy days that Sunny AZ has.

First the Middle Panel:

Flexible Panel Middle Measured.jpgFlexible Panel Middle.jpg

Next the Front Panel:

Flexible Panel Front Measured.jpgFlexible Panel Front.jpg

Tomorrow is Solar Charge Controller installation day, and also drilling two more holes for cable Glands in the gray junction box to run the cables. The cables are run through a conduit and this makes adding wires a breeze.

As with any project I do, takes so much more time than I thought. I thought it was going to take an entire day, but ended up taking about five part days to get finished. Weather played a part in some of the short days and also forgotten purchases like a circuit breaker.
 
Storage Lot installs are always fun.
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Storage Lot installs are always fun.
About 3/4 of my work was done at the storage lot. I do wish I could store that RV at my house, but I'm in one of those small lot houses it would not fit in. I was able to do some battery work like crimping cables at the house, and was also able to make the setup for my combiner for my portable panels. At least the AZ weather is comfortable now. 100+ outside on the roof was not fun.
 
I can't store at my house either. In fact, working on my trailer at my house is ergonomically worse than at the storage lot. My street is steep enough that I can't level out the trailer completely, and when I come close, the front of the trailer is way up off the ground. It doesn't inspire a lot of confidence.
 
I now consider my solar RV build done. I put a 50 amp fuse before a fuse box I put in to send low amp DC loads through the trailer, like some charging points and cargo lights.

50 Amp Maxi Fuse.jpgDC Wiring--Pass Through Storage.jpgDC Wiring--Pass Through Storage-2.jpg

I also split an existing 12 volt circuit on my slide out to add some more charging points.
DC Wiring-Kitchen-2.jpgDC Wiring-Kitchen.jpgDC Wiring-Kitchen-3.jpg

Overall, I'm happy with the work that was done. Taking it out dry camping for five days this week, so it'll get a good workout!!
 
How can I install my ground panel and my roof panels to the same charge controller?
Tie them into a combiner?
I used different charge controllers. My roof panels are 3S2P and my ground panels 4P. Each were 100 watt panels, but the ground were of a different type and slightly higher voltage than the roof.

To use the same SCC and tie them into the combiner, panel voltages need to be close, and You still can’t exceed max SCC output.

So perhaps if I added only 3 ground panels in series I could add them to the same SCC. With an additional string of 3 ground panels in series, I’d be getting close to the SCC 50 amp limit. My combiner has 6 inputs, but my SCC at 12 volts and a 50 amp output limit will only let three strings in.

Most times, adding ground panels with a roof panel setup will require an SCC.
 
Keep in mind, different strings may not be producing at all times of day.
Yes, overpaneling can push the SCC to its limit... but unless it is a cheap cc, it will be fine, and on weak days, or odd hours, production will be higher.
 
Like @chrisski , I used two controllers. Even though my ground and roof panels are exactly the same, I wanted to separate the circuits and protect the ground connection, just in case someone tried to sabotage my trailer by connecting to the ground port.
 
my trailer by connecting to the ground
What did you use for a trailer Ground Port?

I currently have loose MC4 cables I plug into through a whole underneath the battery. I’d like something that plugs into a wall perpendicular to the ground that is somewhat tough if someone trips over a cable. What I’ve found like wall mounted MC4 plugs does not look like it will support the weight of my cable to my panels never mind someone lightly pulling on it.
 
What did you use for a trailer Ground Port?

I currently have loose MC4 cables I plug into through a whole underneath the battery. I’d like something that plugs into a wall perpendicular to the ground that is somewhat tough if someone trips over a cable. What I’ve found like wall mounted MC4 plugs does not look like it will support the weight of my cable to my panels never mind someone lightly pulling on it.

I used an SAE connector, as suggested here on the forum. It's not a high quality port, but I'm not pushing a lot of amps through it so I'm not too worried about it. The SAE will disconnect easily is someone trips over the cord. I think that's a good thing. A protective measure, by accident. I can lay the 10 gauge PV wire on the tongue of the trailer to support the weight if needed.
 
I used an SAE connector, as suggested here on the forum. It's not a high quality port, but I'm not pushing a lot of amps through it so I'm not too worried about it. The SAE will disconnect easily is someone trips over the cord. I think that's a good thing. A protective measure, by accident. I can lay the 10 gauge PV wire on the tongue of the trailer to support the weight if needed.
I can have 24 amps going through that cable, appears SAE cables may be good to 30 amps. Honestly though, for a permanent fixture, I think that is the best choice so far. Either that or Anderson plugs.

Now that I think about it, I do like the breakaway feature. I have had the portable panels blow away.
 
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