diy solar

diy solar

My Solar Adventure

John49546

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Joined
May 8, 2021
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5
It started with a four-day outage one July two years ago. Being on a well, no electricity = no water. No water = no flushing. No flushing = I won’t go there. I wanted a backup generator but was outvoted: the family insisted on something independent and renewable. What better than the sun?

Beginning with a pair of HQST 100-Watt 12 Volt Polycrystalline Solar Panels and a 500-Watt Kyng Power Solar Generator Portable Power Station UPS Battery, I started my adventure. In no time at all, I graduated to four Richsolar 100-Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panels, a Renogy Rover 20-Amp 12V/24V MPPT Solar Charge Controller with a BT-1 Bluetooth Module, and a BLUETTI EB150 1500Wh Emergency Battery Backup Unit.

Then things got a little crazy. I built a pergola the summer before and before you know it, there were twelve HQST 100-Watt 12 Volt Polycrystalline Solar Panels sitting on top of it. Picture1.jpgWell, all that electricity had to go somewhere, so I passed it through an Picture2.jpgMPP SOLAR 5000w Split Phase Solar Inverter and into four 12-Volt 200-AmpHour Lead-Acid batteriesPicture3.jpg wired in a series. (I know, but they were cheap)

All of this stuff would get wired into the house somehow by a licensed electrician who would take care of permits and inspections. I sent a diagramPicture4.png of how the overall configuration was supposed to turn out. In retrospect, it may have been a little intimidating. After the two I called said they were too busy, I got a little impatient and things may have gotten out of hand.

The house is large with 200-Amp service. I knew I could never get to a backup system that large. Instead, I installed a secondary breaker boxPicture5.jpg to split out all the must-have circuits. The original box was completely full anyway.

To make things even more interesting, MPP insists their controllers be installed on a block or concrete wall for safety. Luckily, I had one only a finished ceiling and finished load bearing wall away. Two eighteen-foot runs of one-inch conduit encasing three eight-gauge conductors (plus ground) later, I had contact. One came out of the main breaker box with a dedicated breaker and into the MPP. The second came out of the MPP and into the auxiliary breaker box to pass through a pair of interlocked cutover breakers. The MPP will switch between solar and utility automatically, but I can also manually override. Things like the water pump, furnaces, central air, water heater, refrigerators, garage and garage door openers, and all network and WiFi-supporting circuits got switched over to the battery backup system..

Before you know it, our four little batteries became eight. Picture6.jpgSummer arrived. As the trees and flowers grew, so did the system. A/C plus water-pump taxed things a bit too much. Did I mention the main furnace, A/C, and water pump are all 2-phase, 240-Volts? That’s what led to choosing that model of MPP in the first place.

Enter a second MPP, Picture7.jpgfor a combined 10kW of output, and over time, eight more batteries Picture08.jpgfor 38.4 thousand Watt-hours of storage, and thirty-six more solar panelsPicture09.jpg bringing us to a theoretical 4,800 Watts of solar input. I say theoretical because this is, after all, Michigan. In winter, bright, cloudless sunlight is measured in hours. I am set up so I can install a third MPP should climate change work out in my favor.

Anyway, I am hedging my bets. I installed a horizontal wind turbine and a vertical wind turbine and passed them through a Renogy Rover 60 Amp 12V/24V/36V/48V DC Input MPPT Solar Charge Controller. Luckily, I managed to find the most wind-free spots on the property. Together, they generate more frustration than energy, which is OK. I haven’t figured out how to fix the “Charge not ready” message the Rover keeps displaying anyway.

My last act of uncivil disobedience was to install an Emporia Smart Home Energy Monitor with 16 50A Circuit Level Sensors. Picture13.jpgIt gives me valuable and detailed information on consumption so I can more accurately assess how many days the battery backup will last. Needless to say, the Battery Backup Breaker Box is now filled to the gills. I have room for a couple more circuits at best. Decisions, decisions.

And please, not a word of this to the Township Department of Buildings and Inspection.
 
Wow! Impressive! Love the pergola! The Emporia made a rat's nest of the load center, but what can you do? ;)

It looks like your VAWT is on a pole a little above the roofline? Or is that an illusion and it's farther in the background and higher?
Did you have to mount your HAWT the same way? Are you seeing enough wind at that elevation?
 
What's the breaker between the load center and the critical circuits? Is that a subpanel rather than a critical circuits panel?

If so, you might want to look at what happens when the grid goes out. From the looks of the diagram, there's a direct grid connection when the inverter switches to backup, which will cause the inverter to trip (during an outage the grid because an infinite sink to suck power out of your system, also illegal to backfeed the grid during an outage). Code usually requires some sort of single fail-safe system rather than "two switches".

Hard to tell from the image, can't blow them up to see. Just ignore this as well-meaning if it's all good. A Critical Circuits panel usually has some sort of transfer switch (manual or automatic) like the one below to make sure the grid isn't back-fed.
ecmweb_5554_cb.png
 
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Wow! Impressive! Love the pergola! The Emporia made a rat's nest of the load center, but what can you do? ;)

It looks like your VAWT is on a pole a little above the roofline? Or is that an illusion and it's farther in the background and higher?
Did you have to mount your HAWT the same way? Are you seeing enough wind at that elevation?
I had no idea the pergola would serve multiple purposes when I built it. Adding the mounts for the panels turned out to be easy. The VAWT is on an antenna mast so I can lower it for maintenance. It kind of falls between the top of the roof and the chimney. Interestingly, since I added the second wind turbine (which peaks at 2 RPM at best) the first one spins a little more out of jealousy. I think 30-Volts is the most output I have measured, but extremely infrequently. I've been successful in keeping the backup power system invisible to the street, however. Thanks for your comments.
 
What's the breaker between the load center and the critical circuits? Is that a subpanel rather than a critical circuits panel?

If so, you might want to look at what happens when the grid goes out. From the looks of the diagram, there's a direct grid connection when the inverter switches to backup, which will cause the inverter to trip (during an outage the grid because an infinite sink to suck power out of your system, also illegal to backfeed the grid during an outage). Code usually requires some sort of single fail-safe system rather than "two switches".

Hard to tell from the image, can't blow them up to see. Just ignore this as well-meaning if it's all good. A Critical Circuits panel usually has some sort of transfer switch (manual or automatic) like the one below to make sure the grid isn't back-fed.
ecmweb_5554_cb.png
As far as I know, this Model of MPP doesn't allow any kind of power transfer back to the grid, only from. They do have models that permit that. Of course, in the two-and-a-half years since I started, there has never been another outage. Figures. The interlocked bypass breakers on the backup panel (60-Amp dual pole) allow me to take the MPPs completely offline, not that I don't trust my own work. The line feeding the MPPs is also a 60-Amp dual pole breaker.
Things were pretty much a rat's nest before the Rover got there. Picture14.jpg There are four sets of PV inputs, two sets of WT inputs, plus a spare. They are fused for 100-Amps on each of the positive and negative. Each of the four battery banks is fused for 120-Amps. The battery inputs to each of the MPPs is also fused for 120-Amps. Picture15.jpg I've got lots of flexibility in terms of what I can isolate and take offline. As far as loads go, when I added the second MPP, I put in a panel next to them to cut utility inputs to each individual MPP. Picture16.jpg I wonder now why I gave each a 40-Amp breaker pair. Math isn't my strong suit. I consider the second panel both a subpanel and a critical circuits panel. Anyway, thank you for your comments and questions. I hope this was helpful to you.
 
I had no idea the pergola would serve multiple purposes when I built it. Adding the mounts for the panels turned out to be easy. The VAWT is on an antenna mast so I can lower it for maintenance. It kind of falls between the top of the roof and the chimney. Interestingly, since I added the second wind turbine (which peaks at 2 RPM at best) the first one spins a little more out of jealousy. I think 30-Volts is the most output I have measured, but extremely infrequently. I've been successful in keeping the backup power system invisible to the street, however. Thanks for your comments.
Wait a minute. The HAWT is on the antenna mast. The VAWT is about six feet off the ground. Sorry.
 
That's a nice solar evolution.

What are the 36 panels mounted on? Is that the ground? No tilt?
They interlock, but are otherwise unattached to anything just lying on th roof. Picture09.jpgI plan on working on tilting them soon.
 
Where are you located? Maybe it's better to keep them flat? I wanted to have my panels flat, but was reading how the manufacturers recommend a minimum of 11 degree slope for self-cleaning or to avoid water ingress or whatever, so I just decided to have the architect change the roof to an 11-degree angle. I wanted as flat as safely possible since I'm near the equator.
 
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