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diy solar

NEC compliance on PV Disconnect boxes.

Don't you love the precise nature of the NEC???
Sometimes precision (in a prescriptive context) is not the goal. In this particular case though I think you are reading too much into it. A disconnect can have a cover, dead-front, and live-front. The cover can only use a key (if presenet). The dead-front must use tools. The live-front is behind the dead-front so additional tools are not required. DIN rail breakers without a bezel lack a dead-front.
 
"Capable of being reached quickly for operation, renewal, or inspections without requiring those to whom ready access is requisite to take actions such as to use tools (other than keys)"

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That should be compliant, right?
(Remove pins from the lock and it is accessible without tools because key still works. And you can open it with a screwdriver. Does not protect the more ingenious fools.)

The surge arrestor assembly I bought, I thought I was going to have to track down keys for, but the "lock" was a screwdriver slot.
 
Not really; you can't be exposed to live parts when operating a disconnect that needs to be readily accessible.

Where does it say that?

Hazardous voltages are not accessible except by tool (or key)

For purposes of "readily accessible", lock with key is OK.

I would rather have a bezel. Don't want to reach in myself and slip. Could even fabricate, but need a way to mount.
So buy that $150 box from Midnight.
 
Why add a breaker a when all you need is an appropriately rated safety switch?
1) In this particular build, there needs to be two separately controllable disconnects. The cleanest way I have found to do that is to use the Din rail breakers.
2) The cost of properly rated switches is typically higher than the cost of the breakers.
 
1) In this particular build, there needs to be two separately controllable disconnects. The cleanest way I have found to do that is to use the Din rail breakers.
2) The cost of properly rated switches is typically higher than the cost of the breakers.
what is your voltage?
 
Make a deadfront/bezel out of plexi glass.
Attached to the breakers with velcro. At the flat surface between the terminal screws.
 
On a lighter note takes me back to another time when we debated computer upgrades.

Got some of the top minds on this. Glad I am not the only one scratching my head
 
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1) In this particular build, there needs to be two separately controllable disconnects. The cleanest way I have found to do that is to use the Din rail breakers.
2) The cost of properly rated switches is typically higher than the cost of the breakers.
If you hunt around, you can find the IMO for 72 bucks x 2= 144 bucks

If they are that hard up for money, probably should not be building a system.
 
In that application we use a few dozen of these a year. No problem passing inspection ever. $27

That is indoor rated, the NEMA outdoor rated is higher.

 
That is indoor rated, the NEMA outdoor rated is higher.

Trust me, it's the same one. Some sort oddness with HD website. As I said.... $27 rated for outside, passed inspection dozens of times with it outside already.
 
Trust me, it's the same one. Some sort oddness with HD website. As I said.... $27 rated for outside, passed inspection dozens of times with it outside already.
It isn't the same, it doesn't have the cover on the top. :)

I know what you're saying but NEMA rating is a NEMA rating for exposure. Many times outdoor rated is galvanized metal, the indoor isn't. Take for instance Siemens PV rated disconnect, the outdoor rated box is made of aluminum so it won't corrode.

It's like fake meat, while it might taste the same (it doesn't), smell the same (it doesn't) and look the same (it might), doesn't mean it is meat. :LOL:
 

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