Need 2nd opinion on Reliance Controls correspondence of 50A manual transfer switch questions

[adirondack_wanderer]

I have 2x Bluetti AC500 + B300S for split-phase backup. To integrate this I recently purchased a Reliance Controls 50A manual transfer switch model A510C (https://www.reliancecontrols.com/pr...a-2-1p-20a-6-1p-15a-circuits-metal-gray-a510c) and had some concerns wiring it to the PB50 flanged power inlet (https://www.reliancecontrols.com/products/reliance-controls-pb-series-power-inlet-boxes-50-pb50). I noticed that the feed wires for the transfer switch are 10 gauge and they would not stay secure when inserted to the PB50 and screwed as far as I could without damaging the hex bolt or the trapezoidal bond that is pushed by the hex bolt. Everything I've found said that 10 gauge is not rated for greater than 30A (https://www.google.com/search?q=10+gauge+stranded+wire+amperage). I do see some exceptions like at different temperatures the rated amperage is a bit higher but nothing close to 50A. Also when searching what gauge wire I should be using for 50A service I find 6 gauge (https://www.google.com/search?q=10+gauge+stranded+wire+amperage). At this point I'm concerned about the 10 gauge wires not securing to the flanged inlet:

https://imgur.com/JGHfFCX

Your can see that the neutral and ground wires are 8 gauge versus the red and black are clearly 10 gauge. I reached out and was contacted by a Reliance representative and he collected some basic info over email and I sent him the pictures, then we spoke on the phone and and assured me 10 gauge was fine and had Reliance Controls' blessing for 50A. He suggested that I could just fold the wire to increase the thickness so it would fasten securely under the hex bolt. Naturally this seemed odd - the wire should get fastened in there without any modification in my experience. I thought about it some more and responded the next day saying I still had concerns of pushing 50A through those two wires (with the fold) because I couldn't find anything saying that was within rating - basically the same I mentioned in the above paragraph. His response was:

While Panel wiring Internal wires are rated differently than conduit wiring, the differences are not readily known to most people.
Conduit wiring or wiring that goes into a conduit follows the typical wire rating. That is why the Neutral wire is 8 ga and larger than the Red and Black wires coming from the buss. But because the Red and Black wires do not exit the panel, it does not follow the required wiring sizing that is required to conduit.

I have monitored my home energy usage and even with the heat pump water heater, well pump, and HVAC running at the same time I wouldn't get anywhere near 50A but I wanted a second opinion and am curious if you all have any insight. He also stated that I should not replace the 10 gauge with 8 or 6 because it will void any provided warranty and I agree with that.

 

[Kremer]

The most you will get from the AC500 is 41A continuous. I agree it seems a bit shy for 50A. Is that per wire or total across the two hots I wonder?

 

[adirondack_wanderer]

Either way I can't get the lead wires to fasten securely in the inlet hex screw down connections and Reliance wants me to try and fold the wire to give it more girth. I actually tried this and when I do that it's too big to fit in even unscrewed all the way. I'm just really surprised they wouldn't just put 8 gauge wire so it fits properly.

 

[Kremer]

Either way I can't get the lead wires to fasten securely in the inlet hex screw down connections and Reliance wants me to try and fold the wire to give it more girth. I actually tried this and when I do that it's too big to fit in even unscrewed all the way. I'm just really surprised they wouldn't just put 8 gauge wire so it fits properly.

You could clip a few strands off. Or cut a couple pieces of solid #14 or #12 to add as spacers. I have wire ferrules that would probably do the trick also.

 

[wpns]

Yeah, your imgr shows the problem, I don't think you are going to get it to work even folding it over.

Can you source a piece of 8GA wire and replace the 10GA at both ends?

 

[T-Rex]

I just downloaded the manuals for both the transfer switch panel and the inlet connection because I am planning to use them in my home as well.

The installation instructions for both the 510C and PB50 state that AWG6 minimum AWG4 maximum cable should be used for the inlet connection.

Are you sure you aren't trying to use the red and black wires supplied for the connections between the transfer switches and the breaker panel?

 

[adirondack_wanderer]

Yeah, your imgr shows the problem, I don't think you are going to get it to work even folding it over.

Can you source a piece of 8GA wire and replace the 10GA at both ends?

I could splice on a piece of larger wire but it doesn't seem right to have to do that. I was curious if anyone else had used this transfer switch and ran into the same issue. Reliance is offering to send me a replacement unit but I'm not sure that's going to help if they still use 10 gauge lead wires.

 

[adirondack_wanderer]

I just downloaded the manuals for both the transfer switch panel and the inlet connection because I am planning to use them in my home as well.

The installation instructions for both the 510C and PB50 state that AWG6 minimum AWG4 maximum cable should be used for the inlet connection.

Are you sure you aren't trying to use the red and black wires supplied for the connections between the transfer switches and the breaker panel?

I am absolutely certain I'm using the stock lead wires that connect to the power inlet that came with the unit. I even took off the upper cover to see what would involve swapping them out for 6 AWG but it's too much modification from what I see. At least for my skill level. It's possible that perhaps I got a defective unit that was somehow refurbished incorrectly but that's certainly not how I bought it. I bought it brand new.

If anyone else has experienced this issue, or even if you feel like purchasing one of these units to see if you get the same gauge wires, then I will continue gathering these responses and send it back to Reliance to see what they can do.

 

[Kremer]

Inside the transfer switch they intend you to wirenut those to the 6AWG that you run from the switch to the remote inlet box. I’m pretty sure that is what the illustration on mine showed. If you are putting the input on the faceplate instead of remote mounting it then you won’t need the wire nuts of course.

 

[adirondack_wanderer]

Inside the transfer switch they intend you to wirenut those to the 6AWG that you run from the switch to the remote inlet box. I’m pretty sure that is what the illustration on mine showed. If you are putting the input on the faceplate instead of remote mounting it then you won’t need the wire nuts of course.

Do you have any ferrules you recommend? I see various choices for instance on Amazon but I can't attest to their quality even if they say they are 100% copper. I've seen a few videos about crimping ferrules and letting the hex bolt come down into it getting full contact similar to the inline electrical splices. I'd like to try this method.

 

[Kremer]

I have some straight copper ones, and some plated ones with the plastic insulator ring. Both seem good. The copper uninsulated ones are thicker material.