Need a check on planned setup

YahwehisKing

New Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2022
Messages
20
I've read and read and watched and watch I just need a sanity check to make sure I'm doing this right.

Setup planned is a 16s 48v 280ah batter pack (I bought the cells through DocanPower payed 147$ and they all got here in 5 days cells appear brand spanking new)
I purchased a 100amp Daly BMS everything else was backorder I'm still thinking of purchasing an overkill but not sure if it's truly necessary. I also purchased a 48v spf 3000tl lvm growatt. My question as with many is fuse size and cable size.

Should I use cable for my battery bus bars or regular bus bars, even the ones that comes with the batteries?

Should i use the windy nation 100amp ANL fuse after the battery between disconnect?? https://www.amazon.com/WindyNation-...fix=100+amp+t+class+fus,automotive,474&sr=1-9

If my 48/3000 62amps, which I won't be pulling anywhere near yet could i just use a 70amp tocas fuse?

Should I use 4ga which is rated at 70amp or go higher just for random surges if any?

Any help is much appreciated
 

rmaddy

Full-time Solar-powered Trailer Life
Joined
Nov 16, 2019
Messages
3,735
Location
USA
A 3000W inverter at 48V can result in up to 3000W / 48V / 85% efficiency = 75A discharge current from the battery. Even if you never plan to use the full 3000W you should wire for it just in case it does get used.

4AWG wire, if kept at a reasonable length, is good for up to 100A (assuming high quality marine grade pure copper stranded wire with insulation rated to 105ºC) so that's a good choice of wire between the battery and inverter. I would suggest a 100A Class T fuse close to the battery before anything else (such as a switch).

Will you have any DC loads or just the inverter? If you also plan to have a DC fuse box for DC loads and if those loads are kept under 100A at 12V (via a 48V-12V DC-DC converter) then the 4AWG should still be fine. This is because 100A at 12V will be about 25A at 48V. So the 75A max for the inverter and 25A max from the DC loads is 100A.
 

YahwehisKing

New Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2022
Messages
20
A 3000W inverter at 48V can result in up to 3000W / 48V / 85% efficiency = 75A discharge current from the battery. Even if you never plan to use the full 3000W you should wire for it just in case it does get used.

4AWG wire, if kept at a reasonable length, is good for up to 100A (assuming high quality marine grade pure copper stranded wire with insulation rated to 105ºC) so that's a good choice of wire between the battery and inverter. I would suggest a 100A Class T fuse close to the battery before anything else (such as a switch).

Will you have any DC loads or just the inverter? If you also plan to have a DC fuse box for DC loads and if those loads are kept under 100A at 12V (via a 48V-12V DC-DC converter) then the 4AWG should still be fine. This is because 100A at 12V will be about 25A at 48V. So the 75A max for the inverter and 25A max from the DC loads is 100A.

OK 4awg it is.
On the T class fuse, where the heck is anyone getting one. I can find the fuse itself but i can't find a T call fuse block rated for 100amp smallest I can find is rated at 200amp for the lowest. Any link would be appreciated.

Should I go cable or flat metal for the bus bars?? I've also read things about making sure conductive grease is on the bus bars.... I'm not new to electronics or electricity but some of the standards seem to have been to create peace of mind than to be actual necessity...

No DC loads was planning for the houses sureflow pump to be DC but found AC version, so no need for that. but then I was thinking a radio hub built into the wall so maybe but i figure i can add it later.

im in the middle of no where So this system is mainly going to be used to not need a generator and if things get tough during winter and wood runs low, electric heat and cooking is available. With Elec heat and cooking no traveling is needed
 
Top