diy solar

diy solar

Need help to power RV DC and GFCI outlets only.

@smoothJoey (ah, so @'s work!) I was thinking the GFCI breaker would be replaced by the inverter/charger and the GFCI would just run through the inverter/charger. Does the GFCI also need to be hooked up to its own breaker (or a fuse between the inverter/charger and GFCI)?
 
@smoothJoey (ah, so @'s work!) I was thinking the GFCI breaker would be replaced by the inverter/charger and the GFCI would just run through the inverter/charger. Does the GFCI also need to be hooked up to its own breaker (or a fuse between the inverter/charger and GFCI)?
I see what you are saying.
The GFCI outlet is connected to a standard over-current breaker.
The GFCI outlet will trip if current on hot doesn't match current on neutral and the breaker will trip if there is over-current.
I guess its ok to not have a breaker between the inverter/charger and the GFCI outlet.
But then you would have 2 concurrent charge sources to manage.
Not an insurmountable problem just a small additional detail.
 
Code:
ac {
    |<-30A_master_breaker<-surge_protector<-inlet<-pedestal
    |->15A_breaker->inverter_charger->GFCI_outlet
    |->15A_breaker->converter
}
dc {
    pos {
        |<->battery.pos
        |<->inverter_charger.pos
        |->dc_panel.pos
        |<-converter.pos
    }
    neg {
        |<->battery.neg
        |<->inverter_charger.neg
        |<-dc_panel.neg
        |->converter.neg
        |<->inverter_charger.eq
        |<->converter.eg
        |<->chassis_bond
    }
}
 
@smoothJoey (ah, so @'s work!) I was thinking the GFCI breaker would be replaced by the inverter/charger and the GFCI would just run through the inverter/charger. Does the GFCI also need to be hooked up to its own breaker (or a fuse between the inverter/charger and GFCI)?
There is a 15a breaker when fed by utility power. When fed by the inverter the inverter will shut down for overload before you have an issue. OK that assumes 2000 watts max inverter.
 
I see what you are saying.
The GFCI outlet is connected to a standard over-current breaker.
The GFCI outlet will trip if current on hot doesn't match current on neutral and the breaker will trip if there is over-current.
I guess its ok to not have a breaker between the inverter/charger and the GFCI outlet.
But then you would have 2 concurrent charge sources to manage.
Not an insurmountable problem just a small additional detail.
I dont plan for the converter to be powered, so I can certainly replace its breaker position with the inverter/charger. Am I correct in thinking that there's no way for me to have both the inverter/charger and GFCI hot in the AC breaker (powered by shore)? I would need a separate breaker (or in-line fuse) to go between the inverter/charger and GFCI. Though it sounds like that's not necessary based on yours and @time2roll explanations.

I am thinking I will get a 1000-2000W (2000-6000W Peak) inverter/charger. This one from AIMS looks relatively good.
 
Am I correct in thinking that there's no way for me to have both the inverter/charger and GFCI hot in the AC breaker (powered by shore)?
The inverter charger contains an automatic transfer switch.
When shore power is available the inverter/charger bypasses shore power down to the GFCI breaker.
When shore power is not available the inverter/charger energizes the GFCI breaker by inverting dc power to ac.
That is the essence of an inverter/charger's function.
I am thinking I will get a 1000-2000W (2000-6000W Peak) inverter/charger. This one from AIMS looks relatively good.
How much battery capacity are you planning on?
 
The 1000 and 1500 watt version don't have hard-wire capability.
 
@smoothJoey I'm planning to run all of the GFCI outlets off of this inverter. That will be laptop (~90w), monitor (~90w), several small chargers, small fans, and maybe even a desktop PC (~150w sustained). I think I could get away with a 1000w inverter, but it seems in my interest to oversize, no?

Also it doesn't have hard-wire capability.
You're right! I actually switched over to this other one with the same specs, and it does have hard-wired.

How much battery capacity are you planning on?
To start I was thinking I would wire up 2 6v 225 AH AGM batteries in series, and put those in parallel with the battery that's already on the camper (need to double check, but I think it's 100 AH). So I think that would get me to 335 AH (capacity) at 12 V.
 
Strange... I assumed that there would only be one GFCI outlet.
If I'm not mistaken all regular outlets downstream of the GFCI are protected by the upstream GFCI outlet.
Oh... uh... I will have to check on that tomorrow. You're probably right.
 
@AustinMilt you could use a plain inverter charger for this setup.
Its slightly less efficient when on shore power but it is also cheaper.
Code:
ac {
    |<-30A_master_breaker<-surge_protector<-inlet<-pedestal
    |->15A_breaker->inverter->GFCI_outlet
    |->15A_breaker->converter
}
dc {
    pos {
        |<->battery.pos
        |<->inverter.pos
        |->dc_panel.pos
        |<-converter.pos
    }
    neg {
        |<->battery.neg
        |<->inverter.neg
        |<-dc_panel.neg
        |->converter.neg
        |<->inverter.eq
        |<->converter.eg
        |<->chassis_bond
    }
}
 
OK, here's what I've come up with, thanks to all of your help. Please correct anything that's wrong. Note I dont include any of the grounds, which I understand need to be connected to the ground for the unit, nor am I showing power coming in from the charge controller. Also, I show the existing power converter, but I would flip its breaker to remain OFF at all times.

What about in-line fuses? I have been told I should put a fuse between the inverter/charger/ATS and battery bank. Anywhere else that is recommended?

View attachment 52602
I would say you don't need fuse protection on the 120v side the inverter has that built in... you do need a fuse on the 12v side of the inverter for sure.
 
I have no “converter.” Old camper, discreet 12V and 120V systems. I like the no-converter approach anyway and would have pulled it if it was newer.
I cut off the female end of a heavy duty 12ga extension cord and wired that to a stand-alone 20A GFCI with the male end plugged into the (not RV) 1200W inverter. It does make me feel better ]shrug[ :)
The RV shore power cord plugs either into shore power (which only happened when I first got the camper 4 years back) or into the GFCI (which is where it is always).

That’s the plain simplest solution and nearly cost-free. The transfer switch is the plug. Never can forget to throw a breaker.
Going to use the generator? No problem- just plug it in. There’s often beauty in simplicity.

No matters e we hat you do, there’s lots of good advice previous to my simplicity divergence
 
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