Adam De Lay
Solar Wizard
Should have used the bounce house blower....Nothing really new here. Only test was battery to vacuum cleaner. No grid fail over, no PV inputs, etc.
Mike C.

Should have used the bounce house blower....Nothing really new here. Only test was battery to vacuum cleaner. No grid fail over, no PV inputs, etc.
Mike C.
What is the idle consumption on the unit in your video?Should have used the bounce house blower....![]()
Yes, you are right. I saw it in the manual to, but as my inverter is not yet in my hands, I can not confirm.On page #35 of the nhx manual it mentions 120/208 three phase but didn't see it in the settings, which I could have easily overlooked .
18.6W when in standby modeWhat is the idle consumption on the unit in your video?
I presume you mean watts.18.6V when in standby mode
76.5V when system is inverting power
Bah, yes. Watts. Sorry...I hadn't had my coffee yet.I presume you mean watts.
1.8 KWH per day when operating on battery based on the above numbers.
Mike C.
The 3 phase diagram is in the manual.There is an option for 120/208V three phase output (2/3) on these inverters
To be1 to 1 compatible with my grid type I need to change the Line voltage to 127V so I can get 127/220V three phase for the backup loads.
Do you guys happens to know if such change/setting is possible? Maybe via an installer app?
Excellent.Thanks to @mciholas, I have Solar Assistant working on the NHX. Thanks for finding the proper connector!
I used the one from Solar Assistant:Excellent.
The connectors are:
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PY07 Z108 Waterproof Connector Docking Plastic Plug Bayonet Socket IP67 Butt Connector 2pin 3pin 4pin 5pin 6pin 7pin - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.comwww.aliexpress.com
Choose the 4 pin bayonet style. They are sold as a male/female set.
The two uses will be to either make a Solar Assistant cable that doesn't have to go internal to the machine, or to build an extension cable so the included Wifi module can be moved to a better location (for example, not inside a wiring trough).
For SA, you need to hook to the RS485 A and B lines, plus GND.
For a Wifi extension cable, you need to run all four wires between connectors.
As for the pin out, I've seen two different versions.
This is from the Solarman website:
View attachment 216011
This is from the Solar Assistant website:
View attachment 216012
Not the same!
I would verify by measuring continuity from GND to other grounds in the inverter, and then measuring 5 volts appears on pin 1 just to make sure you got it right. Once you do, let us all know what the actual true pinout is.
Mike C.
Curious. I will investigate on my unit when able.Now I only ended up using pins 2 and 3. I checked pin 4 for ground continuity and there was none. Tried between the ground bus bar inside the unit as well as the ground stud directly behind the COM port on the bottom of the inverter.
Nope, pin 2 is not ground. Before I found that diagram on the SA website, I tested all 4 pins for ground and none of them toned out.Curious. I will investigate on my unit when able.
Is pin 2 ground? Due to the way RS 485 works, it is sometimes possible to get good data even if only one line is wired up. Maybe the SA website is wrong and it "just works" any way. The signal margins will be compromised if using only one signal, but maybe that's enough.
Since Solarman makes the Wifi adapter, and the SA website is technically for the Megarevo (assumed to be compatible, but maybe not), maybe the Solarman website is more correct.
Mike C.
Pins 1 and 4 together show 5v.Because RS485 is differential, it has a pretty good chance of working without a proper ground routed together with data. Different devices could be floating at a voltage where data gets through (bumped back into line by ESD clamping at the rails), or could be grounded through other structures & cables.
Would be more reliable with ground reference. +5V, if present, could also provide reference but is less likely to be solidly connected at both ends.
But note that "ground" in a data bus is not necessarily same as "chassis", and this confusion is often a reason for EMI failures. It likely means reference plane of PCB. Do you measure voltage between it and +5?
The 3 phase diagram is in the manual.
The AC input voltage limits for low and high look like they would encompass your range of operation, but this is not explicitly clear. You are only abut 5% off the 120/208 voltage. Why do you need 127/220 3 phase?
A potentially concerning note with 3 phase operation was this:
"PHASE A/B/C: This interface is used to select the output phase of the device when three phases are used. (Reserved function)."
When I see "Reserved function", I translate that to "not yet implemented" but maybe it just means this setting is automatic and you don't have to set it manually.
When the grid is down, my expectation is that the units will produce 120/208 3 phase power, when the grid is up, they will sync to the 127/220 3 phase input. I would surmise that is reasonable enough.
I have no idea if the units actually work on 3 phase, so the above is just manual reading plus engineering intuition.
Mike C.
One of them has to be ground, so your test isn't working. You might not be testing against the interface ground rail.Before I found that diagram on the SA website, I tested all 4 pins for ground and none of them toned out.
The pricing is not that far off other similar spec'ed units so the feature set is not that implausible.It is a repeat of what others have said but this sounds too good. 10Kw, split phase, all in one...
The inverter is two 5 KW 120 VAC inverters internally. There is no autotransformer.Although, I wonder how much will it be able to balance the split phase loads? 10KW will need a sizable autotransformer (at least a 50 amps to leave some headroom).
No auto transformer, not needed. Designed as a 240V split phase inverter.It is a repeat of what others have said but this sounds too good. 10Kw, split phase, all in one...
Although, I wonder how much will it be able to balance the split phase loads? 10KW will need a sizable autotransformer (at least a 50 amps to leave some headroom).