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New 10kw NHX AIO From Watts247

Would the NXH10 accomplish this well, or is it just dumb to try and do this without solar?
I ran an NHX for about 6 months without solar and one 14.3 KWH battery. Used exclusively as a large UPS.

It had some problems and would occasionally drop power. It did pick up power on grid failure, but one time it didn't. When hurricane Milton came by (passed right over the house), the battery lasted 40 hours into a 56 hour outage, which was helpful.

I've since added an 11.7 KW solar array and a second 14.3 KWH battery. Now the backup system runs indefinitely. I've had the critical loads panel totally off grid for 2 weeks now and never got close to draining the batteries. I'm waiting for the POCO bidirectional meter to be installed so I can pump my excess solar back into the grid for net metering.

1. Would generator input work as I believe it would? Would it help offset loads or just charge the battery? Can it take in AC while still running full inverter loads?
The generator input on the NHX won't work with the Ioniq 5 V2L power output (my car as well). The NHX generator input needs to be 240 VAC and the US version of the Ioniq 5 is only 120 VAC. The European version does 230 VAC (and 3600 watts), but sadly we can get that here.

The best bet is a chargeverter that takes in 120 VAC and directly charges the battery bank. You don't want to charge constantly, necessarily, but use the car to pump it up to, say, 80% and stop the V2L. When the car gets low, drive it to a DCFC station and "top it off". It becomes a self portable electric "jerry can".

No solar means no recharge of the battery during a power failure, so 11 days on battery is likely not doable. With solar, you could go forever depending on the system sizing and loads. Solar also generates actual energy. Note that battery round trip efficiency is about 80%, so it takes 1.2 KWH charging to pump 1.0 KWH back into the grid. Your peak shift savings will be affected by that.

2. For my use case would I need to create a new panel with critical loads or can I just feed into my current panel and do a "zero export" option?
Zero export is not workable since it "leaks" and the POCO will detect that and get upset at you. That is the nature of the control system on inverters.

A critical loads panel is a good way to go, but takes a bit of wiring to get done.

Mike C.
 
Finally got 3banks of the new Hythium batteries in the lower rack of the new battery rack and moved into place. Had to remove the other banks cell by cell to get them out of the way. Hooked the 3new banks up to the NHX and I got issues.

Did get an alarm on the master inverter. #04 battery low capacity. Not sure where that's coming from as battery cutoff is set to 50v and the master read 52.2v. Anyhow, only the master alarmed, no alarms on the slave but it always reads .2v higher than the master, not sure that has anything to do with it, or it may be I waited too long precharging before hooking up the battery power wire on the master. I was a lot quicker with the slave and no alarm.

Anyhow, neither output AC. It was very late in the day and both put a little charge into the battery, but no AC juice coming out and no other alarms. Decided to reset using the rsd instead of unbolting the power leads and things got interesting. One inverter would boot then turn off, then the other inverter would boot, then turn off. They did this several times even booting/turning off at the same time. Flipped the battery breakers off.

What is going on with these things? Is there some special procedure to booting both inverters when in parallel?

Forgot ... on the inverter page, the slave showed system state: hybrid pow, Inv. State: off grid, DCDC: discharge while the Master showed system state as standby.

Using lead acid/custom battery settings. According to Ian's video, it's supposed to ignore the lithium dod settings when using lead acid/custom.
 
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Finally got 3banks of the new Hythium batteries in the lower rack of the new battery rack and moved into place. Had to remove the other banks cell by cell to get them out of the way. Hooked the 3new banks up to the NHX and I got issues.

Did get an alarm on the master inverter. #04 battery low capacity. Not sure where that's coming from as battery cutoff is set to 50v and the master read 52.2v. Anyhow, only the master alarmed, no alarms on the slave but it always reads .2v higher than the master, not sure that has anything to do with it, or it may be I waited too long precharging before hooking up the battery power wire on the master. I was a lot quicker with the slave and no alarm.

Anyhow, neither output AC. It was very late in the day and both put a little charge into the battery, but no AC juice coming out and no other alarms. Decided to reset using the rsd instead of unbolting the power leads and things got interesting. One inverter would boot then turn off, then the other inverter would boot, then turn off. They did this several times even booting/turning off at the same time. Flipped the battery breakers off.

What is going on with these things? Is there some special procedure to booting both inverters when in parallel?

Forgot ... on the inverter page, the slave showed system state: hybrid pow, Inv. State: off grid, DCDC: discharge while the Master showed system state as standby.

Using lead acid/custom battery settings. According to Ian's video, it's supposed to ignore the lithium dod settings when using lead acid/custom.
Send Ian @ Watts247 an email and ask him... if you haven't already. I sent him a few emails earlier about my inverter preps and he was quick to respond. - John
 
Send Ian @ Watts247 an email and ask him... if you haven't already. I sent him a few emails earlier about my inverter preps and he was quick to respond. - John
They are up and running. Must have been something to do with me being too slow with the precharge of the master inverter.
 
Hi all,

I question for the experts or ones with experience...
I want to upgrade my inverter to the latest firmware, can I use the latest firmware or do I need to upgrade incrementally to the latest version?

Thanks in advance!
 
Hi all,

I question for the experts or ones with experience...
I want to upgrade my inverter to the latest firmware, can I use the latest firmware or do I need to upgrade incrementally to the latest version?

Thanks in advance!
Doesn't matter, just be sure to update both display and inverter with matching update.
 
I had hoped this was going to replace the aging blue GTILs on my garage wall. The way this thread is going I’m having second thoughts.
I replaced my 4 sunGTIL2 with the 10kw NHX. It came pre-installed with the updated firmware. I had it for 3 months now. This inverter is wwaaaaayyy more better and reliable. It gives me peace of mind as it works as expected. When I was using the GTIL2 I had to check it everyday when I wake up in the morning & when I get back from work just to make sure that it was still working. With the NHX I don't feel any urge to check it everyday & I feel the satisfaction whenever I check it & see it working as expected.
 
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I replaced my 4 sunGTIL2 with the 10kw NHX. It came pre-installed with the updated firmware. I had it for 3 months now. This inverter is wwaaaaayyy more better and reliable. It gives me peace of mind as it works as expected. When I was using the GTIL2 I had to check it everyday when I wake up in the morning & when I get back from work just to make sure that it was still working. With the NHX I don't feel any urge to check it everyday & I feel the satisfaction whenever I check it & see it working as expected.
Get SolarAssistant and you can keep tabs on it from just about anywhere, not to mention control, logging, and lots of fancy graphs.
 

Our model is:
N3H-X5-US / N3H-X8-US / N3H-X10-US (COLOR SCREEN)
 
Hey everybody, I’ve recently installed my NHX 10k and it was working great for a week and now I am getting a fault code whenever I try to charge from the grid. It’s A26 Relay Open Circuit. Not the cleared pictures , but they do show that I’m pulling .7 kw from the grid and pushing it into the batteries, but then it cuts out and gives this error :( Any ideas on how to fix this? Ian at Watts247 forwarded my problem to the factory, but figured I would check here as well.
 

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Hey everybody, I’ve recently installed my NHX 10k and it was working great for a week and now I am getting a fault code whenever I try to charge from the grid. It’s A26 Relay Open Circuit.
That is exactly the error my unit displayed but it didn't matter if it was charging or not. This turned out to be some relays which had welded their contacts closed. How they did that remains a mystery.

Despite the error code saying "open relay", I suspect you actually have a stuck relay like I did, one that should be open but is closed. The system detects this and flags the error. The error code should be more accurately stated as "relay error".

If you take the top cover off the unit, you will see this large relay board (this one removed from my unit, yours will have wires attached to it all over):

1739497845450.png

The power relays are the large black boxes, 11 of them in this picture. I bet one of them is stuck closed.

To test this, remove ALL power from the inverter, PV, battery, and grid. Let it sit for a minute or two for caps to discharge.

Then take a multimeter in resistance or beeper mode and measure from the sea of little silver dots on each side of the relays. Those dots are PCB vias (holes through the PCB that conduct) in large wide traces carrying the power. Using a long straight dentist pick or other long sharp metal probe will help you get in between the relays to touch the trace dots. With power off, there should not be conduction across any relay.

If you feel brave, you can remove the board and measure them on the backside. The wiring and PCB contacts are actually quite nicely labeled (at least my unit was), but be VERY sure to get all the wires back to the right connections. Take pics! Also, handle the board with care, it is heavy and there are small parts on it that will break off easily if the weight of the board runs through them.

The top row of relays connects the inverter L2, L1, N to the LOAD1 L2, L1, N.

The next two rows are doubled up relays that connect the grid L2, L1, N to the LOAD1 L2, L1, N. The implication here is that the grid to load connection has two relays to provide redundancy in case one relay fails.

The two relays on the right connect the generator L2, L1 to LOAD1 L2, L1.

There are two more relays on the communication board in the lower section. They connect LOAD2 L1, L2 to LOAD1 L1, L2.

Your likely culprits are the 9 in the center, the grid and inverter relays. I doubt the generator or the LOAD2 relays matter for your issue.

You may be able to free the stuck relay by tapping on them. That is usually only a temporary fix as whatever caused them to stick in the first place will likely recur. Try to find the guilty relay first, though, you want to know which one it is.

For me, I had 4 busted relays, 3 of which had welded. This is what a good set of relay contacts look like inside the cover in the open position:

1739498747362.png

And this is what a set of welded contacts looked like:

1739498777966.png

This happens on an overload of sufficient excess to heat up the contacts that they melt and stick. You can see arc flash discoloration, too. There was no apparent damage to the rest of the inverter, nothing else seems fried, though I can't really be sure of that.

I am still puzzled by this happening, but it clearly did somehow and I know of at least one other case like this. You might be a third case.

You can buy new relays here:


HF167F 12-HF

All the big black relays are the same part number.

The issue is replacing them requires some skills and tools for heavy trace PCB work. A typical soldering iron won't cut it, the big traces take all the heat away and you can't melt the solder, you really need a fairly large heat gun and the right technique to soften all the terminals at once and pull the old relay out, then solder wick to clean up the holes, and then a big soldering iron to solder in the new part. Not something your average solar DIY type is gong to be able to do effectively.

I have found that Watts247 is well meaning and supportive, but not equipped with engineering information that would be helpful, and the Amensolar factory support is meager at best.

These relays seem to be a weak spot in the inverter design, or there is some sort of significant overload fault that the inverter can create somehow on its own that ruins them. It is weird.

Also, each relay uses about 2 watts of power. In "normal" use, 11 relays are on (3 to the inverter, 6 to the grid, and 2 to LOAD2) which totals 22 watts. The unit idle power is about 70 watts (measured on mine), so 22 watts of relays is a significant portion of that idle power, nearly a third. Just an interesting fact.

Mike C.
 

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That is exactly the error my unit displayed but it didn't matter if it was charging or not. This turned out to be some relays which had welded their contacts closed. How they did that remains a mystery.

Despite the error code saying "open relay", I suspect you actually have a stuck relay like I did, one that should be open but is closed. The system detects this and flags the error. The error code should be more accurately stated as "relay error".

If you take the top cover off the unit, you will see this large relay board (this one removed from my unit, yours will have wires attached to it all over):

View attachment 278013

The power relays are the large black boxes, 11 of them in this picture. I bet one of them is stuck closed.

To test this, remove ALL power from the inverter, PV, battery, and grid. Let it sit for a minute or two for caps to discharge.

Then take a multimeter in resistance or beeper mode and measure from the sea of little silver dots on each side of the relays. Those dots are PCB vias (holes through the PCB that conduct) in large wide traces carrying the power. Using a long straight dentist pick or other long sharp metal probe will help you get in between the relays to touch the trace dots. With power off, there should not be conduction across any relay.

If you feel brave, you can remove the board and measure them on the backside. The wiring and PCB contacts are actually quite nicely labeled (at least my unit was), but be VERY sure to get all the wires back to the right connections. Take pics! Also, handle the board with care, it is heavy and there are small parts on it that will break off easily if the weight of the board runs through them.

The top row of relays connects the inverter L2, L1, N to the LOAD1 L2, L1, N.

The next two rows are doubled up relays that connect the grid L2, L1, N to the LOAD1 L2, L1, N. The implication here is that the grid to load connection has two relays to provide redundancy in case one relay fails.

The two relays on the right connect the generator L2, L1 to LOAD1 L2, L1.

There are two more relays on the communication board in the lower section. They connect LOAD2 L1, L2 to LOAD1 L1, L2.

Your likely culprits are the 9 in the center, the grid and inverter relays. I doubt the generator or the LOAD2 relays matter for your issue.

You may be able to free the stuck relay by tapping on them. That is usually only a temporary fix as whatever caused them to stick in the first place will likely recur. Try to find the guilty relay first, though, you want to know which one it is.

For me, I had 4 busted relays, 3 of which had welded. This is what a good set of relay contacts look like inside the cover in the open position:

View attachment 278014

And this is what a set of welded contacts looked like:

View attachment 278015

This happens on an overload of sufficient excess to heat up the contacts that they melt and stick. You can see arc flash discoloration, too. There was no apparent damage to the rest of the inverter, nothing else seems fried, though I can't really be sure of that.

I am still puzzled by this happening, but it clearly did somehow and I know of at least one other case like this. You might be a third case.

You can buy new relays here:


HF167F 12-HF

All the big black relays are the same part number.

The issue is replacing them requires some skills and tools for heavy trace PCB work. A typical soldering iron won't cut it, the big traces take all the heat away and you can't melt the solder, you really need a fairly large heat gun and the right technique to soften all the terminals at once and pull the old relay out, then solder wick to clean up the holes, and then a big soldering iron to solder in the new part. Not something your average solar DIY type is gong to be able to do effectively.

I have found that Watts247 is well meaning and supportive, but not equipped with engineering information that would be helpful, and the Amensolar factory support is meager at best.

These relays seem to be a weak spot in the inverter design, or there is some sort of significant overload fault that the inverter can create somehow on its own that ruins them. It is weird.

Also, each relay uses about 2 watts of power. In "normal" use, 11 relays are on (3 to the inverter, 6 to the grid, and 2 to LOAD2) which totals 22 watts. The unit idle power is about 70 watts (measured on mine), so 22 watts of relays is a significant portion of that idle power, nearly a third. Just an interesting fact.

Mike C.
Thanks buddy, I’ll have to check those relays and get back to you!
 
I got my NHX-10k up and running. I got solar assistant installed and working. I was hoping it would allow the ability to adjust the configuration, but it seems to just monitor it. I was hoping to use it in a way to adjust things realtime with other home assistant CT’s. :( has anyone been able to create some automation between the NHX system and solar assistant/home assistant and Enphase? I was hoping I could create some software logic to help adjust the battery charge and discharge. If anyone has thoughts let me know.
Hey, can you tell me what gauge wire you used for the grid? Just got my NHX, and I'm trying to get 6awg in the grid holes because I want to use a 50A breaker on my panel, and it seems impossible to bend the wires tightly enough to get in. I also tried not going through the grommets and just straight from the front, and I couldnt even get the 6awg to go into the holes. I know the manual says to use 8awg, but 6awg makes more sense for a 50A breaker. But I feel like 8awg would be near impossible to bend as well. The space is so tight. I was thinking about using flexible soow wire, but I think romex is preferred for this type of installation.
 

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