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diy solar

diy solar

New 10kw NHX AIO From Watts247

Would the NXH10 accomplish this well, or is it just dumb to try and do this without solar?
I ran an NHX for about 6 months without solar and one 14.3 KWH battery. Used exclusively as a large UPS.

It had some problems and would occasionally drop power. It did pick up power on grid failure, but one time it didn't. When hurricane Milton came by (passed right over the house), the battery lasted 40 hours into a 56 hour outage, which was helpful.

I've since added an 11.7 KW solar array and a second 14.3 KWH battery. Now the backup system runs indefinitely. I've had the critical loads panel totally off grid for 2 weeks now and never got close to draining the batteries. I'm waiting for the POCO bidirectional meter to be installed so I can pump my excess solar back into the grid for net metering.

1. Would generator input work as I believe it would? Would it help offset loads or just charge the battery? Can it take in AC while still running full inverter loads?
The generator input on the NHX won't work with the Ioniq 5 V2L power output (my car as well). The NHX generator input needs to be 240 VAC and the US version of the Ioniq 5 is only 120 VAC. The European version does 230 VAC (and 3600 watts), but sadly we can get that here.

The best bet is a chargeverter that takes in 120 VAC and directly charges the battery bank. You don't want to charge constantly, necessarily, but use the car to pump it up to, say, 80% and stop the V2L. When the car gets low, drive it to a DCFC station and "top it off". It becomes a self portable electric "jerry can".

No solar means no recharge of the battery during a power failure, so 11 days on battery is likely not doable. With solar, you could go forever depending on the system sizing and loads. Solar also generates actual energy. Note that battery round trip efficiency is about 80%, so it takes 1.2 KWH charging to pump 1.0 KWH back into the grid. Your peak shift savings will be affected by that.

2. For my use case would I need to create a new panel with critical loads or can I just feed into my current panel and do a "zero export" option?
Zero export is not workable since it "leaks" and the POCO will detect that and get upset at you. That is the nature of the control system on inverters.

A critical loads panel is a good way to go, but takes a bit of wiring to get done.

Mike C.
 
Finally got 3banks of the new Hythium batteries in the lower rack of the new battery rack and moved into place. Had to remove the other banks cell by cell to get them out of the way. Hooked the 3new banks up to the NHX and I got issues.

Did get an alarm on the master inverter. #04 battery low capacity. Not sure where that's coming from as battery cutoff is set to 50v and the master read 52.2v. Anyhow, only the master alarmed, no alarms on the slave but it always reads .2v higher than the master, not sure that has anything to do with it, or it may be I waited too long precharging before hooking up the battery power wire on the master. I was a lot quicker with the slave and no alarm.

Anyhow, neither output AC. It was very late in the day and both put a little charge into the battery, but no AC juice coming out and no other alarms. Decided to reset using the rsd instead of unbolting the power leads and things got interesting. One inverter would boot then turn off, then the other inverter would boot, then turn off. They did this several times even booting/turning off at the same time. Flipped the battery breakers off.

What is going on with these things? Is there some special procedure to booting both inverters when in parallel?

Forgot ... on the inverter page, the slave showed system state: hybrid pow, Inv. State: off grid, DCDC: discharge while the Master showed system state as standby.

Using lead acid/custom battery settings. According to Ian's video, it's supposed to ignore the lithium dod settings when using lead acid/custom.
 
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Finally got 3banks of the new Hythium batteries in the lower rack of the new battery rack and moved into place. Had to remove the other banks cell by cell to get them out of the way. Hooked the 3new banks up to the NHX and I got issues.

Did get an alarm on the master inverter. #04 battery low capacity. Not sure where that's coming from as battery cutoff is set to 50v and the master read 52.2v. Anyhow, only the master alarmed, no alarms on the slave but it always reads .2v higher than the master, not sure that has anything to do with it, or it may be I waited too long precharging before hooking up the battery power wire on the master. I was a lot quicker with the slave and no alarm.

Anyhow, neither output AC. It was very late in the day and both put a little charge into the battery, but no AC juice coming out and no other alarms. Decided to reset using the rsd instead of unbolting the power leads and things got interesting. One inverter would boot then turn off, then the other inverter would boot, then turn off. They did this several times even booting/turning off at the same time. Flipped the battery breakers off.

What is going on with these things? Is there some special procedure to booting both inverters when in parallel?

Forgot ... on the inverter page, the slave showed system state: hybrid pow, Inv. State: off grid, DCDC: discharge while the Master showed system state as standby.

Using lead acid/custom battery settings. According to Ian's video, it's supposed to ignore the lithium dod settings when using lead acid/custom.
Send Ian @ Watts247 an email and ask him... if you haven't already. I sent him a few emails earlier about my inverter preps and he was quick to respond. - John
 
Send Ian @ Watts247 an email and ask him... if you haven't already. I sent him a few emails earlier about my inverter preps and he was quick to respond. - John
They are up and running. Must have been something to do with me being too slow with the precharge of the master inverter.
 
Hi all,

I question for the experts or ones with experience...
I want to upgrade my inverter to the latest firmware, can I use the latest firmware or do I need to upgrade incrementally to the latest version?

Thanks in advance!
 
Hi all,

I question for the experts or ones with experience...
I want to upgrade my inverter to the latest firmware, can I use the latest firmware or do I need to upgrade incrementally to the latest version?

Thanks in advance!
Doesn't matter, just be sure to update both display and inverter with matching update.
 
I had hoped this was going to replace the aging blue GTILs on my garage wall. The way this thread is going I’m having second thoughts.
I replaced my 4 sunGTIL2 with the 10kw NHX. It came pre-installed with the updated firmware. I had it for 3 months now. This inverter is wwaaaaayyy more better and reliable. It gives me peace of mind as it works as expected. When I was using the GTIL2 I had to check it everyday when I wake up in the morning & when I get back from work just to make sure that it was still working. With the NHX I don't feel any urge to check it everyday & I feel the satisfaction whenever I check it & see it working as expected.
 
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I replaced my 4 sunGTIL2 with the 10kw NHX. It came pre-installed with the updated firmware. I had it for 3 months now. This inverter is wwaaaaayyy more better and reliable. It gives me peace of mind as it works as expected. When I was using the GTIL2 I had to check it everyday when I wake up in the morning & when I get back from work just to make sure that it was still working. With the NHX I don't feel any urge to check it everyday & I feel the satisfaction whenever I check it & see it working as expected.
Get SolarAssistant and you can keep tabs on it from just about anywhere, not to mention control, logging, and lots of fancy graphs.
 

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