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New 10kw NHX AIO From Watts247

I ran an NHX for about 6 months without solar and one 14.3 KWH battery. Used exclusively as a large UPS.

It had some problems and would occasionally drop power. It did pick up power on grid failure, but one time it didn't. When hurricane Milton came by (passed right over the house), the battery lasted 40 hours into a 56 hour outage, which was helpful.

I've since added an 11.7 KW solar array and a second 14.3 KWH battery. Now the backup system runs indefinitely. I've had the critical loads panel totally off grid for 2 weeks now and never got close to draining the batteries. I'm waiting for the POCO bidirectional meter to be installed so I can pump my excess solar back into the grid for net metering.


The generator input on the NHX won't work with the Ioniq 5 V2L power output (my car as well). The NHX generator input needs to be 240 VAC and the US version of the Ioniq 5 is only 120 VAC. The European version does 230 VAC (and 3600 watts), but sadly we can get that here.

The best bet is a chargeverter that takes in 120 VAC and directly charges the battery bank. You don't want to charge constantly, necessarily, but use the car to pump it up to, say, 80% and stop the V2L. When the car gets low, drive it to a DCFC station and "top it off". It becomes a self portable electric "jerry can".

No solar means no recharge of the battery during a power failure, so 11 days on battery is likely not doable. With solar, you could go forever depending on the system sizing and loads. Solar also generates actual energy. Note that battery round trip efficiency is about 80%, so it takes 1.2 KWH charging to pump 1.0 KWH back into the grid. Your peak shift savings will be affected by that.


Zero export is not workable since it "leaks" and the POCO will detect that and get upset at you. That is the nature of the control system on inverters.

A critical loads panel is a good way to go, but takes a bit of wiring to get done.

Mike C.
I’d love to see how you have this set up!
 
I got 6 awg to work as long as it was a freshly cut end. If any strand is out of place it would get in the way. I also was able to crimp a ferrel on the end of a particularly difficult one to compress the strands and then I pulled the ferrel off and I was able to push it in w/o the ferrel.
Thanks. I was trying with the ferrules on. But the hardest part just seems to be bending them properly and tight enough. Seems like you'd have to put a hard kink in the line.
 
Thanks. I was trying with the ferrules on. But the hardest part just seems to be bending them properly and tight enough. Seems like you'd have to put a hard kink in the line.
Mine looks like Mike’s post before. If you leave enough length you can pull the cable out and loop it back in. Not so much of a kink that way.
 
I have fit various types of wire in the terminals. 6 awg fine stranded wire with a ferrule as well. It was just more difficult to get in there. Crouching down and seeing the terminal shape does help. I used needle nose pliers for extra leverage on the wire.

The newer style NHX has a lot more room to maneuver in the wiring box it looks like.
 
I’d love to see how you have this set up!
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Main panel is on GRID side of inverter, small panel is on LOAD1 and is backed up with grid down.

Array is 30 panels, 390 watts, feeding 3 strings of 10.

Two EG4 14.3 KWH batteries.

Fairly straightforward. We made our own battery covers since the wall bracket and stacking factory system is difficult if you want to change a battery.

The weakest part of the system are issues with the inverter, the fried relays being one of them.

Mike C.
 
View attachment 278334

View attachment 278336

View attachment 278335

Main panel is on GRID side of inverter, small panel is on LOAD1 and is backed up with grid down.

Array is 30 panels, 390 watts, feeding 3 strings of 10.

Two EG4 14.3 KWH batteries.

Fairly straightforward. We made our own battery covers since the wall bracket and stacking factory system is difficult if you want to change a battery.

The weakest part of the system are issues with the inverter, the fried relays being one of them.

Mike C.
View attachment 278334

View attachment 278336

View attachment 278335

Main panel is on GRID side of inverter, small panel is on LOAD1 and is backed up with grid down.

Array is 30 panels, 390 watts, feeding 3 strings of 10.

Two EG4 14.3 KWH batteries.

Fairly straightforward. We made our own battery covers since the wall bracket and stacking factory system is difficult if you want to change a battery.

The weakest part of the system are issues with the inverter, the fried relays being one of them.

Mike C.
That looks great 👍🏾 I’ve been using a

NEMA 14-50P Male to SS2-50R Generator Extension Cord 125V/250V RV Generator Power Cord Twist Lock Connector connected to the grid in on the inverter to connect to my garage sub panel that has a 14-50 plug for charging my ev. I’m thinking the inverter didn’t like me plugging and unplugging the grid in. But yours did it even though you seem to be wired straight into your panel…

 
View attachment 278334

View attachment 278336

View attachment 278335

Main panel is on GRID side of inverter, small panel is on LOAD1 and is backed up with grid down.

Array is 30 panels, 390 watts, feeding 3 strings of 10.

Two EG4 14.3 KWH batteries.

Fairly straightforward. We made our own battery covers since the wall bracket and stacking factory system is difficult if you want to change a battery.

The weakest part of the system are issues with the inverter, the fried relays being one of them.

Mike C.

I love the space and how close everything is together... and under the roof. That is a huge plus when doing solar. My setup is outdoors, which I took the route of building a custom "tiny" shed in the limited space that I had to work with and building the solar system around it. Nice layout too btw!

I see the battery top covers... a very nice custom touch to the setup! It's very impressive how perfect they fit and look! Very slick!

I have been running the NHX-12K now for just over a month... in that time I started with one Ruixu Lithi2 wall battery, then added a second just recently with only 12 Hyperion 400/500 watt bifacial solar panels. We are already seeing a huge impact to our bill as we are taking advantage of a rate plan that offers 'free nights' between 9 pm and 7 am (Houston area), using that time to charge our two EV's and now the two 16kwh batteries. I have also setup the inverter Time Of Use (TOU) settings to charger the battery between 9pm-7am and then use the battery at all other times as needed. My solar panels recharges the batteries mid-day as well. So far, so good... the NHX-12K has been very solid without any noticeable struggles on powering most of house loads... actually all of them including my well pump and 5-ton AC with soft start, minus our EV charging which is done only on-grid at night. When I was looking at inverters I was 100% sold on the NHX-10K as the best "bang for the buck" inverter out there without spending both arms and both legs. Then the NHX-12K dropped just before I was ready to purchase and I went that route, still sticking with the NHX series. If you get the option of a refund and a repurchase, I would suggest taking a good look at the NHX-12K as an option. Even though my time with ours has been short, everything about it has just worked as planned out of the gate... even though I was a huge bundle of nerves in the wiring phase headed towards commissioning it! I probably should have doubled up or tripled up on my blood pressure meds the week that led up to flipping that switch! But when I did it just came on and went to work... and hasn't complained a bit so far.

I hope that Ian @ Watts247 and Amensolar/Megarevo get your NHX-10K addressed, at the very least send you a replacement board. I of course have that same fear of something happening to ours and having to get neck deep into the inverter and be down for an unknown period of time. I think it would be worth the effort to figure out what that relay controlled and see what the culprit was. Would a whole home SPD helped prevent it? A solar SPD maybe as well? That way you can get it back up and running with any additional support to keep the issue from reoccurring.

Anyway, good luck on getting it back up! I hope it all works out for you.

Best regards,

John
 
I'm curious about the warranty situation too. It was my understanding that Ian agreed with the manufacturer to take on the responsibility of the warranty work. Hopefully if you have a broken unit he should just let you swap it for a good one.
 
Here's the list of battery protocols I got from Ian. I know Megarevo isn't on that list and I'm not familiar with most of them.

Safe to say that Pylontech and Megarevo work on the CAN network.

View attachment 220357
So I got the MK energy batteries with the Nhx 10, but Gavin stone had trouble getting comms to work in his video. I tried rs485 from battery to inverter on pylontech which is mentioned here and in the video as well as voltronic which is mentioned in the battery manual, but no dice. Anyone have any suggestions? No word on warranty or replacement yet…
 
So I got the MK energy batteries with the Nhx 10, but Gavin stone had trouble getting comms to work in his video. I tried rs485 from battery to inverter on pylontech which is mentioned here and in the video as well as voltronic which is mentioned in the battery manual, but no dice. Anyone have any suggestions? No word on warranty or replacement yet…
Okay so I tried CAN comms on the battery to rs485 on the inverter and it works…will update if it drops lol I’d be happy to unscrew the bottom and switch it from rs485 to the CAN port but it was easier to just unplug it at the battery and try the CAN port lol
 
The MK’s work great with CAN communication, Pylontech and the inverter set to CAN. Just verify your dip switches are set correctly. I think the issue I had originally was trying to get the EG4 wall mount to work with the NHX. Although it’s been a while so I can’t recall exactly.
 
The MK’s work great with CAN communication, Pylontech and the inverter set to CAN. Just verify your dip switches are set correctly. I think the issue I had originally was trying to get the EG4 wall mount to work with the NHX. Although it’s been a while so I can’t recall exactly.
Thanks @Gavin Stone! Yeah, I had the dip switches and pylontech correct. It’s the rs485 port from battery to inverter that doesn’t communicate. CAN port of battery to BMS port (which is both CAN and rs485) of the inverter is the ticket! Oddly enough the batteries didn’t seem to care if they were set to rs485 or CAN lol it communicated on either setting (I have it on CAN now though). I tried connecting battery CAN port to inverter CAN 1, but comms failed. AE64731F-6449-45CB-BCAE-A562234EB773.jpeg
 
View attachment 278334

View attachment 278336

View attachment 278335

Main panel is on GRID side of inverter, small panel is on LOAD1 and is backed up with grid down.

Array is 30 panels, 390 watts, feeding 3 strings of 10.

Two EG4 14.3 KWH batteries.

Fairly straightforward. We made our own battery covers since the wall bracket and stacking factory system is difficult if you want to change a battery.

The weakest part of the system are issues with the inverter, the fried relays being one of them.

Mike C.
Looking good!
 
Funny you should say that...

Today we were running the system grid down on battery to do a burn in test. About 3 hours into the test, the inverter shutdown and the backup panel went dark. Battery was at 88%.

The inverter reported a battery comm error. In lithium mode, if the battery comms has an error, the inverter no longer uses the battery and it shut down. My early apparent success getting the inverter to talk to the battery was falsely encouraging and that protocol isn't 100% reliable.

So I disconnected the battery comm cable, reprogrammed the inverter to lead acid/custom settings, used the EG4 settings in the manual for bulk, float, cutoff, etc. Now the system is running again on battery but this time without battery comm. So far, all is well, but we are only 2 hours into this test so far. I intend to run the battery down to 20% or so overnight to check it out.

If this works, and it seems like it will, then battery comms is a failure point and using old style voltage levels will be more reliable. This will also stop the battery charge/discharge cycling, another indication that battery comms wasn't performing well.

What this also means is that my interest in moving the system to Solar Assistant is higher. With SA, I can separately monitor the inverter, battery #1, and battery #2. I can then automate any actions based on battery SoC in SA if I want to.

The Solarman app that comes with the unit is mediocre at best. I am sure SA will be far superior to monitor and control the unit.


The supplied CTs with the unit have a cable length of about 6 ft or so. For my install that worked nicely. The CTs sit in the bottom of the main panel where the utility feed comes in. I then run them in a small plastic flex conduit to the trough, then they go to the inverter and plug into the RJ45s there. I have maybe 2 ft spare length. It is important to get the CT arrow direction right, and to get L1 versus L2 right.

View attachment 217659

If you were running them further, then I would take one network cable and use two punch down RJ45's at each end. Then plug the CTs in the RJ45s at one end, and use a short patch cable at the other to go to the inverter. You would have to learn which pins are active and workout the signal mapping. Make sure to use pins which are twisted together for each CT (pin 1/2, 3/6, 4/5, 7/8).

The CTs supplied fit my feed cables without difficulty (200 amp service).

Mike C.
I know this was a while ago, but I thought you or others might find this useful. If you go to Solarman's website(solarmanpv.com) and login, there is an option to remote control the NHX inverter. You can read and set parameters. Choose Device on the left, then in the drop down menu called More on the right there is a selection for Remote Control. Once on the Remote Control page, choose a group of parameters on the left. Then select Read in the lower right corner. Set will send the new settings to the inverter.

Firefox browser didn't work. I had to use Chrome.
 

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If you go to Solarman's website(solarmanpv.com) and login, there is an option to remote control the NHX inverter.
Be careful with this feature. There are a lot of variables to control, and it doesn't seem like the inverter LCD UI and the website line up well. It looks like there might be some inconsistencies between the two interfaces.

When I adjusted what I thought were relatively minor things, the inverter started acting strangely. Watts247 advise me not to use the remote and only configure things from the LCD panel, so that is what I did.

The software, both on the unit and the Solarman website, are rather unpolished, IMO.

Mike C.
 
I haven't tried a lot of them, but the few I read agreed with the UI on the inverter. I sent them back down through the web interface and they were correct on the inverter.

What parameters caused instability on the inverter?

I thought this would give you the ability to change things from your remote location.

Were there problems changing settings through the local connection of the phone app also?
 
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What parameters caused instability on the inverter?
I don't know.

I suspect there were registers the website was touching that didn't want to be touched.

I didn't think I changed anything meaningful.

It may have been firmware version related, too.

I thought this would give you the ability to change things from your remote location.
Well, give it a go and let us know.

Mike C.
 
I don't know.

I suspect there were registers the website was touching that didn't want to be touched.

I didn't think I changed anything meaningful.

It may have been firmware version related, too.


Well, give it a go and let us know.

Mike C.
Did you try changing settings using the local connection in the phone app?
 
I'm curious about the warranty situation too. It was my understanding that Ian agreed with the manufacturer to take on the responsibility of the warranty work. Hopefully if you have a broken unit he should just let you swap it for a good one.
Got a reply from Amen Solar:
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Sorry I have been MiA since I got things working. I believe the NHX does support AC coupling with a different firmware. However when talking with others they all recommend the NHX-12. My NHX-10 was actually a SunGold version of the same box. It died and I sent it back for a refund. Then I bought the NHX-12 from Watts247. I tried several configurations, but had no luck with AC coupling. Till I chatted with others who got it working on other inverters. I was thinking I connect my IQ8/solar directly to the NHX. I was wrong. You need a separate combiner box. Then connect this box to the NHX1-30-25 Current line drawing.png
 

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