New 200 amp rated JBD

[John Frum]

I hope JBD makes an 8s version of this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003167173178.html .
In the meantime I would like to see someone test 2 of these in series.
@Will Prowse ^

 

[Just John]

I hope JBD makes an 8s version of this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003167173178.html .
In the meantime I would like to see someone test 2 of these in series.
@Will Prowse ^

JBD does not rate those for use in series. It might work for 24v, but I know the parts are not rated for 48v. I looked them up but can't remember if the parts are rated for 30v or 40v.

The 150 amp is rated for up to 48v since it uses 80v rated parts.

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[RV Truck Camper]

did the heating pad have a neg cable, did you just connect it to one of the posts

I connected the neg to the battery post.

 

[DonPhillipe]

Looks like no sooner did they put a 200A model on the market, around a year later now they have shortened both high current terminal tabs which means if you are like me, just built a battery box based on the long tab terminals and you order a spare unig, it comes now with the short stubbie threaded stud terminals. I got one in the mail today and the terminal won't fit my setup because both have been cut to even with the PCB and also a female threaded stud has been inserted in both copper tabs. A lot of work to save 4 cents worth of copper. stubbie

Good luck on not touching the aluminimum shield with your battery cable. Frustrating.

 

[MakeMePower]

that does seem like quite a step back. I wonder if they were getting returns due to breaking the tab off the board

 

[bryn]

that does seem like quite a step back. I wonder if they were getting returns due to breaking the tab off the board

I'd imagine that is the problem, the way they have been packaging these would lead to these issues. i got lucky with my 2 units with the way it was packed, a lot weren't

Im chasing down a a old spare as well for my setup, the new setup doesn't work for me

 

[Andy6ft4Tall]

I can see the idea behind the changes but improving the packaging and keeping the original design would have been a better idea.
Alternatively they could have made the terminals wrap around the PCB and a bolt hole that passed straight through the PCB.
This new design limits the torque you can use to get a good connection.

 

[DonPhillipe]

OK, here is what HankzorBMS Store (SIC) who I bought from on Ali says about the change:

ME:
You switched products on me. If you will look at the photo in the top of this message, you see what the product looked like on your website when I ordered it - It had the long tabs that extended beyond the side of the circuit board. This one you sent me has short terminals and it will NOT fit in my battery box that I have designed for the long-terminal BMS like you your website photo showed last month This BMS will not work! The cables will short to the aluminum and a fire will result. I need to either get the long terminal 200A from you or I need to order it TODAY from someone else who is selling the exact item that is on their website.

All products have been revised and the production line has been adjusted. Thank you for your understanding,

 

[KRONJON99]

I just got one of these last week for a setup. Looks like the new version posted by @DonPhillipe.

So how do I program it? I'm having a hard time finding how to talk to it via PC and what application is needed.

Also, how about using the terminal for "heating film anode"? Just plug in a heater pad? What's the regulation on that? Using one of the 2 temp probes?

Sorry, but the spec sheet they sent me is pretty minimal.

 

[Just John]

I just got one of these last week for a setup. Looks like the new version posted by @DonPhillipe.

So how do I program it? I'm having a hard time finding how to talk to it via PC and what application is needed.

Also, how about using the terminal for "heating film anode"? Just plug in a heater pad? What's the regulation on that? Using one of the 2 temp probes?

Sorry, but the spec sheet they sent me is pretty minimal.

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You will need the USB to serial port interface. (AKA UART box)
UART = Universal Asynchronous Receiver Transmitter (serial port)

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[bryn]

OK, here is what HankzorBMS Store (SIC) who I bought from on Ali says about the change:

ME:
You switched products on me. If you will look at the photo in the top of this message, you see what the product looked like on your website when I ordered it - It had the long tabs that extended beyond the side of the circuit board. This one you sent me has short terminals and it will NOT fit in my battery box that I have designed for the long-terminal BMS like you your website photo showed last month This BMS will not work! The cables will short to the aluminum and a fire will result. I need to either get the long terminal 200A from you or I need to order it TODAY from someone else who is selling the exact item that is on their website.

All products have been revised and the production line has been adjusted. Thank you for your understanding,

I can’t see you getting an old replacement from that reply.

while is not ideal, just grab some 20mm x 2mm copper and extend it to the old style dimensions to make it work

I guess that’s what I’ll be doing if I can’t get a spare for my 200amp units, as I also designed a box for it, I should have ordered a spare at the same time, lesson learnt on my end

 

[MakeMePower]

guys how have these been working out? I have a camping trip this week and may go down this path if the battery doesn't last.

 

[DonPhillipe]

Working well, no issues here on 280aH cells & occasional 160A load from inverter for microwave.