New 24v DYI build

[einyv]

This is my first attempt.

From the SCC I used 6 AWG to the 40 AMP breaker and bus negative Bus Bar

From the battery to 150 Amp fuse I used 4AWG and 4AWG to the switch
4AWG to the positive bus bar from the switch.
4AWG from inverter to 150 fuse and 4AWG to positive bus bar
4AWG for both wires the battery to the shunt and shunt to negative his bar.

Lastly for PV I have the 40 amp breaker to xt60 adapters 10AWG wire to SCC.

Tested the 2000W giandel inverter and seems to work without issue. The litime shunt seems to be fairly accurate. When I was running a load the amps were consistent to the meter I had on it

I have not run an AC ground to earth. This board and battery will be on a handcart for portability.

Figure I can use this to charge 12v batteries if needed as well as long as I keep the inverter disconnected. I estimated with the wire sizes I could get a 1200W 12v inverter if I needed to use 12v batteries.

 

[BerndL]

Nice, makes me wish I'd used busbars for mine. Have you stress-tested the giandel at all? Thinking of buying the same model. Did you grab it off Amazon?

 

[einyv]

Nice, makes me wish I'd used busbars for mine. Have you stress-tested the giandel at all? Thinking of buying the same model. Did you grab it off Amazon?

I did buy it off Amazon. I tested it with my heat gun as well as my ninja 10qt air fryer that's 1690 watts and it worked no problem.

 

[BerndL]

Oh, what type of fuses are those btw? I've been trying to plan my fuse layout for 2x100ah 24v batts and the same inverter.

 

[Spiney-Dave]

This is my first attempt.

From the SCC I used 6 AWG to the 40 AMP breaker and bus negative Bus Bar

From the battery to 150 Amp fuse I used 4AWG and 4AWG to the switch
4AWG to the positive bus bar from the switch.
4AWG from inverter to 150 fuse and 4AWG to positive bus bar
4AWG for both wires the battery to the shunt and shunt to negative his bar.

Lastly for PV I have the 40 amp breaker to xt60 adapters 10AWG wire to SCC.

Tested the 2000W giandel inverter and seems to work without issue. The litime shunt seems to be fairly accurate. When I was running a load the amps were consistent to the meter I had on it

I have not run an AC ground to earth. This board and battery will be on a handcart for portability.

Figure I can use this to charge 12v batteries if needed as well as long as I keep the inverter disconnected. I estimated with the wire sizes I could get a 1200W 12v inverter if I needed to use 12v batteries.

Nice build. I’m in process of building my first with a Giandel 24V 4KW pure sine wave inverter, their latest model. I’m using a bank of 4 Wattcycle 12V 100AH batteries in a 2S 2P configuration. I will expand my battery bank as I can. I’m using a Renogy 60A Charge Controller with 4 320W panels. My question for you is what AC to DC Charger are you using? I’m still trying to find a suitable charger. Also how did you calculate the wire and fuse size / specs? What tool did you use to crimp your ends with? What make & model cut off switch is that? Sorry for so many questions. I’ve bought most the big components, it’s the smaller components I still need to buy. I almost went the way of an AIO, but wanted the serviceability and expandability of individual components. Thanks, Dave in PA

 

[Wattson25]

Nice work!

 

[Supervstech]

This is my first attempt.

From the SCC I used 6 AWG to the 40 AMP breaker and bus negative Bus Bar

From the battery to 150 Amp fuse I used 4AWG and 4AWG to the switch
4AWG to the positive bus bar from the switch.
4AWG from inverter to 150 fuse and 4AWG to positive bus bar
4AWG for both wires the battery to the shunt and shunt to negative his bar.

Lastly for PV I have the 40 amp breaker to xt60 adapters 10AWG wire to SCC.

Tested the 2000W giandel inverter and seems to work without issue. The litime shunt seems to be fairly accurate. When I was running a load the amps were consistent to the meter I had on it

I have not run an AC ground to earth. This board and battery will be on a handcart for portability.

Figure I can use this to charge 12v batteries if needed as well as long as I keep the inverter disconnected. I estimated with the wire sizes I could get a 1200W 12v inverter if I needed to use 12v batteries.

It looks like the negative bar uses same lug for mppt as shunt conductors?

Are those bussbars copper?

Beware that style breaker, they are known to be mislabled, and heat up. Only useful as a switch disconnect.
Looks like it is only on the 30A mppt feed, but keep in mind, unless it is a bluesea, or bussman breaker, it is suspect.

 

[Chispas]

unless it is a bluesea, or bussman breaker, it is suspect.

Or Midnite or Schneider ? I think where you buy from is the key.
this is a UK electrical wholesaler, trade only I think, but you get the idea.

https://uk.farnell.com/c/circuit-protection/circuit-breakers/thermal-magnetic-circuit-breakers?sort=P_PRICE

whoops, these are AC breakers ! But i think you get the idea. In the US I would go for Midnite, reasonably priced for what they are.

 

[einyv]

It looks like the negative bar uses same lug for mppt as shunt conductors?

Are those bussbars copper?

Beware that style breaker, they are known to be mislabled, and heat up. Only useful as a switch disconnect.
Looks like it is only on the 30A mppt feed, but keep in mind, unless it is a bluesea, or bussman breaker, it is suspect.

Hi, looks are deceiving. On the negative Bus Bar it's 2 different lugs being used. The bus bar is 250 amp rated but not copper, but brass. But I will be replacing them out with copper.