New Daly "Smart" BMS w/ Communication. (80-250A)

drwormy

Solar Enthusiast
@Will Prowse , would be GREAT if you made a detailed BMS hook up Video, and explain the ins/outs of BMS's.
At the present time, i am purchasing 20 105AH lifepo4 [ps thats your fault, why?, your videos inspire me ,LOL] I am replacing 5 of 12vdc Lead Acid 20AH batteries in the ebike, in series making it a 60vDC Ebike..presently, cut of the metal, and am making it ready to hold 20 lifepo4's in series [oy vey i am scared to blow things up,at 57y old, I dont have a lot of cat lives left] , I am looking at getting a 100a daly BMS, and am scared to hook it up, not sure what they mean by "please do not insert ballance wires into BMS before connecting batteries,must make sure connecting with batteries is correct" ....ahh ok, sure..huh? engrish please.

From memory, Ive seen Will say this and do this in all the DIY battery videos (ie there must be 10 or more on his channel?).

ie. Build the battery and then plug in the balance leads to the BMS *LAST*. Also pulling the balance leads off will (should) shut down the BMS. Apart from doing balancing, those leads give the BMS the cell data that it needs to have to protect each cell.
 

Dhopewell

Solar Enthusiast
re: painless << lol, it is IF you take a lot of pics, documentation, and be able to prove you did not fry it y self

i usualy deal with ebay..is Ali good?, better?, same? i see it is cheeper on many of same parts.

I also noticed they have some sort of

Li-ion Lipo lifepo4 Lithium Battery Protection Board LCD Display Screen BMS Speedometer Voltage Capacity Mileage Indicator ANT

but cant find it on Ebay..anyone tried that board?
heres a link to it https://www.dalyelec.cn/newsshow.php?cid=24&id=71&lang=1

i see many have it to check their batteries, but i have had no luck finding it.
Honestly I was prepared for little to no action by AliX but their dispute process took care of it and deserves to be recognized for integrity. Still, It’s so difficult to work through issues and expensive to ship things that I’ve moved back towards domestic vendors where possible.

This Daly episode is a really clear example of the headaches of international commerce but despite the hassle I have another load of stuff coming from AliX, since when I found it on eBay it was all coming from China anyway.
 

Dr.Neis

Engeneering Surgeon
I decided to experiment by swapping the momentary action push to make switch for a toggle one (2 position, on/off). When the toggle switch closes to short circuit, the BMS wakes, but even with the toggle switch left in the on position, the BMS will go back into sleep mode after the sleep delay. In other words the BMS reacts to the closing contact, but cannot be made to remain active with a continuous short on the trigger pins of J5 connector.

There‘s another thing which is troubling me. When the BMS is activated via J5 connector for the first time after the battery is connected, it works fine and the “Smart BMS” app shows the cell and pack voltages, programmable parameters, etc. Once the BMS goes to sleep it can be activated again with a further short on trigger pins, but this time provides “garbage“ data in the app. My 4S A123 pack which is in reality at 12.9V displays in the app as 1411.5V and the current through the BMS shows as 14.5V!! Using the reboot function within the app doesn’t solve this, nor does closing the app and restarting it. Only disconnecting the balance connector and plugging it back in to power cycle the BMS will get me back to normal accurate readings.

Has anyone else seen these errant readings from their Daly smart BMS? Screenshot below.

I’m doubting at this point that triggering via J5 is a viable method for activating the BMS and will have to do more testing to see if I can keep the Bluetooth active just by using the BMS within my solar setup. Still waiting for some crimp connectors to arrive before I can do that....
Hi again,

i just tried the wake-up by connecting the J5 Pins for 1 sec several times (changed slepp timer to 120s) and in my app everything seems to be ok after 2-3 wake ups. No false voltage readings at the moment.
 

Sverige

A Brit in Sweden
Hi again,

i just tried the wake-up by connecting the J5 Pins for 1 sec several times (changed slepp timer to 120s) and in my app everything seems to be ok after 2-3 wake ups. No false voltage readings at the moment.
That’s encouraging (y)
 

Dr.Neis

Engeneering Surgeon
@Sverige
Have you tried to stop the app on your phone manually before waking up the BMS? Maybe it's a problem with handling of variables in the app and not a problem with the bms.
 

Schovie

Solar Enthusiast
I have been in touch with Daly about the code to disable the BT sleep time. Below the answer. At my BMS I can enter this code and now I have to wait a few hours to see if it actually works.
"Oh ,dear, I just tell you, pls don't let all people know that because you know if change no sleeping, Bluetooth, BMS all will consume the electric.
15300 for 4S APP to change sleeping."
 

Sverige

A Brit in Sweden
@Sverige
Have you tried to stop the app on your phone manually before waking up the BMS? Maybe it's a problem with handling of variables in the app and not a problem with the bms.
I’ve tried this. Quit the app completely. Woke the bms, then started the app and connected via Bluetooth. No difference, I still get junk readings, so whether it’s the bms or the Bluetooth module, something doesn’t react well to being woken a second time via the J5 trigger pins. I wonder if things would be better if I add a small capacitor in parallel with my switch, for a little bit of switch de-bounce. Might have to try that if I can find a suitable component laying around here.
 

Sverige

A Brit in Sweden
I have been in touch with Daly about the code to disable the BT sleep time. Below the answer. At my BMS I can enter this code and now I have to wait a few hours to see if it actually works.
"Oh ,dear, I just tell you, pls don't let all people know that because you know if change no sleeping, Bluetooth, BMS all will consume the electric.
15300 for 4S APP to change sleeping."
That’s a great bit of info, thanks for sharing it. I understand their concern that switching off the sleep function could lead to drained batteries, but for our application of off-grid solar, the tiny quiescent current draw of the BMS and BT module is probably less signicant than the inconvenience of a BMS which has gone to sleep when you want to connect via Bluetooth to see what’s going on. For an e-scooter you probably do need a sleep function.

I‘ve set my sleep time to 15,300 and will also be testing to see if it works. I need to be careful though, as my BMS is hooked up to a 2,200mAh 4S A123 cell pack, with no charging source, just for this testing phase. So I’ll keep an eye to see how quickly the battery drains.
 

Jejochen

Solar Addict
In the app i can adjust the max and min voltage, but when i enter info in the total capacity section, other values but the the one i put in appears. Quite odd, any one else has this problem?
 

HaldorEE

Photon Sorcerer
You are NEVER going to get a Discharge of more than 50% of ANY NON-COMMERCIAL RATED CHINESE BMS ... seriously ... virtually every BMS I have gone through - and I have gone through allot -- at about 50% of me pushing a continuous rated HIGH value through them it either turns into a room heater or the things just literally melts the solder off the connectors ... A 250aH Daly giving you 250 is like a VW Beetle going 120 because it has a 120 speedometer -- just ain't going to happen ...
Glad I picked the 150A Daly for my Multiplus 24/2000. Max constant current draw should be less than 90 A.

Derating to 50% (75A) should still be able to output 1900W.

Would really suck if I had settled for a "100A" BMS. That would have limited me to 1200W output.
 

Sverige

A Brit in Sweden
In the app i can adjust the max and min voltage, but when i enter info in the total capacity section, other values but the the one i put in appears. Quite odd, any one else has this problem?
No, I don’t have the same issue on my 4S 80A unit. I just successfully changed from 100Ah to 90Ah and back again.
8081A1F6-264E-489E-8A77-20827028D496.jpeg
 

Dr.Neis

Engeneering Surgeon
That’s a great bit of info, thanks for sharing it. I understand their concern that switching off the sleep function could lead to drained batteries, but for our application of off-grid solar, the tiny quiescent current draw of the BMS and BT module is probably less signicant than the inconvenience of a BMS which has gone to sleep when you want to connect via Bluetooth to see what’s going on. For an e-scooter you probably do need a sleep function.

I‘ve set my sleep time to 15,300 and will also be testing to see if it works. I need to be careful though, as my BMS is hooked up to a 2,200mAh 4S A123 cell pack, with no charging source, just for this testing phase. So I’ll keep an eye to see how quickly the battery drains.
@Sverige @Schovie

Hi there, can you confirm that entering 15300 deactivates the sleep timer? Thanks
 

Sverige

A Brit in Sweden
Works well for me too. The BT doesn't consume much either.
Exactly. I’ve left the BMS connected to a 4S A123 26650 cell pack which is 2200mAh capacity nominal, in practice around 1500mAh as the cells are over ten years old.

Cell voltages have only dropped 4 millivolts in 8 hours, so if used with a 100-250Ah battery pack the self consumption would be so small as to be irrelevant. Really no reason not to disable the sleep timer IMHO.
 
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drwormy

Solar Enthusiast
Last night i ordered a 100A


to replace my 60A Daly. In the meantime im thinking of making some videos showing various aspects of the Daly smartBMS, and showing low temp cutoff etc (to save my past self, but other's future selves the same confusion i went through). If i did this - what are some things that would be good to capture?
 

Sverige

A Brit in Sweden
Last night i ordered a 100A


to replace my 60A Daly. In the meantime im thinking of making some videos showing various aspects of the Daly smartBMS, and showing low temp cutoff etc (to save my past self, but other's future selves the same confusion i went through). If i did this - what are some things that would be good to capture?
Connection sequence (incl. NTC thermistor importance), activation (3 methods), which app & software to use, sleep timer settings.
 

Dr.Neis

Engeneering Surgeon
I'd suggest to show how to activate BMS for the first time - put in some charge voltage or short J5 - because that was something i struggled with. I think it's the reason why some folks think they got a defective unit because before activating the measured voltage through the BMS was around 9.5V.
 

ulfertg

New Member
I have a 4s 400A Daly Smart BMS which reads the voltage of the first cell about 200mV to low.

Has anybody figured out if there is a way to calibrate single cell voltage?
I didn't see an option in Sinowealth BMS Tool or the Smart BMS iOS App.
 

fguiot

Solar Enthusiast
I have a 4s 400A Daly Smart BMS which reads the voltage of the first cell about 200mV to low.

Has anybody figured out if there is a way to calibrate single cell voltage?
I didn't see an option in Sinowealth BMS Tool or the Smart BMS iOS App.
Don't think are any ways to calibrate the inputs. I have check mine and I get a caution of 0.002v between calibrated multimeter reading and BMS reading. So pretty good.
Have you double check that you don't have a bad connection? check both sides (battery and connector).
 
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