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New Daly "Smart" BMS w/ Communication. (80-250A)

smoothJoey said:
Will it handle 250A with the existing wires?
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Yeah, those silicone coated wires can push a lot more current than similar gauge copper wire. They can handle the heat. I used to push 100A through 10 gauge on my race drones. It can handle it.

For continuous, you need to derate still. But in my testing, you can push a lot through that type of wire. They do get hot and resistance does increase, so not the best efficiency wise, but yes, a 250A can handle 250A.
 
Here is an exchange I just had with the Aliexpress Smart BMS Store:
1588786351204.png
1588786394509.png

A couple of things:
1) This is claiming the current rating for charge is 250A. (I would still de-rate by 40-50%)
2) I did not realize there was a daly 'official' store. I am going to find it and ask them the same question.
 
Will Prowse said:
60A?! No, they made a mistake on inputting the data sheet. That's not true. Keep in mind that aliexpress ads are "copy and paste" from previous products sometimes. Derating by 1/2 or 2/3 is plenty. That 250A BMS will handle 250A. I have multiple videos testing this and it's not an issue at all. If someone can post a video proving me wrong, let me know. I haven't seen a single FET based BMS derated by that much. I am pretty darn sure its the ad that is mistaken. Not the products capability.
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Then that new Daly looks like a winner. I am looking forward to their updated spec sheet and your review. Re: "single FET based BMS": What does FET stand for?
 
Just as an FYI: I have found it difficult to find a good but affordable 4S BMS that handles higher currents and has a good set of features (Particularly low temp charge cut-off). I still have a lot of questions about this one but it looks like it might be a good possibility. I hope @Will Prowse does a video review to help answer questions, but I am going to keep asking the AliExpress Vendor questions as well. (I find that on AliExpress and AliBaba you must ask only one question at a time or communications get garbled)

Meanwhile: If others know of a good High Amp 4S BMS I should look at, please let us know.
 
Capt Bill said:
Then that new Daly looks like a winner. I am looking forward to their updated spec sheet and your review. Re: "single FET based BMS": What does FET stand for?
Click to expand...

FET = Field Effect Transistor. This is a class of transistors that can typically handle high currents.

Note: The BMS will use several FETs. The 'Single' in the sentence is not refering to 'FET', it is refering to 'BMS'. He was saying he has not seen a single BMS that uses FETs derated that much.
 
Will Prowse said:
Which one? Did you reverse polarity it? I have 9 Daly BMS and have never had a DOA. Which model was it? Which distributor?
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I know they are great which was one of the reasons I bought it. I bought it direct off the Daly AliBaba site. It was this one “4S Seperate port LiFePO4 100A BMS with Bluetooth” Definitely did not reverse polarity it. I was disappointed as I really wanted the Daly one (for the form factor as well as the reliability) but Bluetooth was a must have. Anyway they refunded me my money so no complaints there.
 
FilterGuy said:
Just as an FYI: I have found it difficult to find a good but affordable 4S BMS that handles higher currents and has a good set of features (Particularly low temp charge cut-off). I still have a lot of questions about this one but it looks like it might be a good possibility. I hope @Will Prowse does a video review to help answer questions, but I am going to keep asking the AliExpress Vendor questions as well. (I find that on AliExpress and AliBaba you must ask only one question at a time or communications get garbled)

Meanwhile: If others know of a good High Amp 4S BMS I should look at, please let us know.
Click to expand...
I am currently using the one the Will and Pierre reviewed. Works a treat and up to 130A - have not tested it to that high a current though but is cool at 40A. Great review here.https://diysolarforum.com/threads/dgjbd-bluetooth-bms-a-short-review.5290/
 
Will Prowse said:
Yeah, those silicone coated wires can push a lot more current than similar gauge copper wire. They can handle the heat. I used to push 100A through 10 gauge on my race drones. It can handle it.
Click to expand...
If you look at those wires on the lithium emergency battery packs they sell to assist starting cars with flat batteries - those draw over 700a (v8 diesel) for a few seconds. They do get hot but handle that current many times.
 
FilterGuy said:
Interesting the "Official Daly Store" Does not have the high current 'Smart BMS'. I sent them a message asking about it. I will let folks know what I learn.
Click to expand...
On the Daly ‘official store’ the Smart BMS are down the bottom on the LHS
 
thedodgersonline said:
I am currently using the one the Will and Pierre reviewed. Works a treat and up to 130A - have not tested it to that high a current though but is cool at 40A. Great review here.https://diysolarforum.com/threads/dgjbd-bluetooth-bms-a-short-review.5290/
Click to expand...
Yup.... I own 4 of those..... The ratings max out at 120A.
 
The 'SmartBMS store emailed me the 'manual' for the Smart BMS. It leaves a *lot* to be desired but I put it up as a resource:

https://diysolarforum.com/resources/daily-4s-smart-bms-manual-part-1-part-2.48/

It answered few questions and raised more questions..... but I guess it is better than nothing. Maybe others can glean something out of it.

The PC SW they talk about in the ad appears to be intended for use at the factory to set the parameters to the customer preference.... Assuming we can get the SW, that is encouraging. However, you have to have the 485->USB dongle to use it (I think).

Nothing is said about the Bluetooth app.
 
Will Prowse said:
They are all dead after you burn any BMS. How many have you destroyed? Which model have you personally fried? Whether you buy a $1200 orion or a $10 li-ion ebike bms, they all fry when abused.
Click to expand...

No what we are talking about is that BMS company is willing to take the parameters that you send them and burn them into the prom for you ... what i am saying is that before you do that you want to make double sure what the parameters are they are going to burn because there is no going back once burned ... BUT thats a pretty nifty trick they are doing --so for those ppl that want to LVD at 10% and HVD at 90% then they can program that ONCE for you ...and then mail you the BMS
 
Will Prowse said:
What is bad about the plug and play BMS? What settings actually need to be changed in a BMS? Cycle bandwidth is not controlled by BMS for most systems. What are the downsides of plug and play solar enthusiasts? LiFePO4 cycle bandwidth cut offs are very effective and can pull full capacity and I don't see a reason to change them. Why would you?
Click to expand...

Nothing at all is bad ... I have a ton of DALY's that do perfect for what they need to do ... on my personal stuff I like to tinker with settings and be able to control or even micro-manage these devices .... so as i said -- sometimes its great to Plug and Play (set-n-forget as my boss says) ... and then there are times that you specifically need for it to do this or that ... and thus you need a programmable one ...

For BMS's definitely One Size does not fit All ...
 
I am continuing to try to tease info out of the manuals for the Daly Smart BMS. The Manual describing the PC SW shows how to read the temp sensors, but does not mention setting a low temp cut off or high temp cutoff..... This is another question to send them.
(I will aslo try to get the SW. If I could play with it without the BMS, maybe I could glean a bit more info.)
 
FilterGuy said:
One thing that jumped out at me on the Daly Smart BMS:
View attachment 12790

With only 35mA balancing current, you *definitely* want to start with a set of cells that have been top balanced.
Click to expand...
This is standard balance current for most BMS. Even the $1200 Orion has a similar balance current. It is fine. And yes, always balance your cells before hooking them up.
 
BoloMKXXVIII said:
Reading the site Will P. linked to and it says low voltage cutoff is 2.2v. That CAN'T be right. Why would anyone want to let their Lifepo4 cells drop that low?
Click to expand...
Hey good point. Daly cycle limits are usually 2.5-3.65V for LVD/OVD respectively. I am guessing they are incorrect on the ad. Technically speaking, you can run down to 2.0V but I would never let it do that. 2.5V is ideal. If you over discharge and let it sit for a few months, 2V cells will destroy themselves. 2.5V is much better.
 
Will Prowse said:
Hey good point. Daly cycle limits are usually 2.5-3.65V for LVD/OVD respectively. I am guessing they are incorrect on the ad. Technically speaking, you can run down to 2.0V but I would never let it do that. 2.5V is ideal. If you over discharge and let it sit for a few months, 2V cells will destroy themselves. 2.5V is much better.
Click to expand...
So how do we know for sure? I am very interested in purchasing one if the LVD is 2.5v. If it is 2.2v I will continue looking.
 
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