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New Daly "Smart" BMS w/ Communication. (80-250A)

What is bad about the plug and play BMS? What settings actually need to be changed in a BMS? Cycle bandwidth is not controlled by BMS for most systems. What are the downsides of plug and play solar enthusiasts? LiFePO4 cycle bandwidth cut offs are very effective and can pull full capacity and I don't see a reason to change them. Why would you?

Nothing at all is bad ... I have a ton of DALY's that do perfect for what they need to do ... on my personal stuff I like to tinker with settings and be able to control or even micro-manage these devices .... so as i said -- sometimes its great to Plug and Play (set-n-forget as my boss says) ... and then there are times that you specifically need for it to do this or that ... and thus you need a programmable one ...

For BMS's definitely One Size does not fit All ...
 
I am continuing to try to tease info out of the manuals for the Daly Smart BMS. The Manual describing the PC SW shows how to read the temp sensors, but does not mention setting a low temp cut off or high temp cutoff..... This is another question to send them.
(I will aslo try to get the SW. If I could play with it without the BMS, maybe I could glean a bit more info.)
 
One thing that jumped out at me on the Daly Smart BMS:
View attachment 12790

With only 35mA balancing current, you *definitely* want to start with a set of cells that have been top balanced.
This is standard balance current for most BMS. Even the $1200 Orion has a similar balance current. It is fine. And yes, always balance your cells before hooking them up.
 
Reading the site Will P. linked to and it says low voltage cutoff is 2.2v. That CAN'T be right. Why would anyone want to let their Lifepo4 cells drop that low?
Hey good point. Daly cycle limits are usually 2.5-3.65V for LVD/OVD respectively. I am guessing they are incorrect on the ad. Technically speaking, you can run down to 2.0V but I would never let it do that. 2.5V is ideal. If you over discharge and let it sit for a few months, 2V cells will destroy themselves. 2.5V is much better.
 
Hey good point. Daly cycle limits are usually 2.5-3.65V for LVD/OVD respectively. I am guessing they are incorrect on the ad. Technically speaking, you can run down to 2.0V but I would never let it do that. 2.5V is ideal. If you over discharge and let it sit for a few months, 2V cells will destroy themselves. 2.5V is much better.
So how do we know for sure? I am very interested in purchasing one if the LVD is 2.5v. If it is 2.2v I will continue looking.
 
I had to ask Daly for a custom lvc of 2.5 earlier, as the default was 2 for the 48v/200a version according to data sheet. It was not a problem, and free, although I haven't tested it yet...
 
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Whether you buy a $1200 orion or a $10 li-ion ebike bms, they all fry when abused.
Orion will rent or sell a device that will verify that you connected the sensor wires correctly. I did that for my first pack. I have been through enough re configurations that it is not worth the time and money since it is easy enough to check with the right size pairs of wires and a good voltage meter.
Rick
 
So Daly said they would set LVD to 2.5v for me but now Ali won't take my credit card. Same card I have used in the past and that they have on file. Want photos of card, DL, and cc statement. No f___ing way. Next...
Your bank probably denied it. Super common. They process it in China so banks block it often. You had never used AliExpress I presume haha
 
Per my post, yes I had used them before. My card was already on record. I don't need the hassle. There are other options.
Yeah I have had that happen with cards on file as well. And I'm pretty sure we all understand the downsides of AliExpress every time we use it. Where is your next source for this BMS? I would love to know
 
Yeah I have had that happen with cards on file as well. And I'm pretty sure we all understand the downsides of AliExpress every time we use it. Where is your next source for this BMS? I would love to know
Looking at options. Not as price conscience as some but not going to go crazy either. Definitely looking at all options.
 
One thing that jumped out at me on the Daly Smart BMS:
View attachment 12790

With only 35mA balancing current, you *definitely* want to start with a set of cells that have been top balanced.

My favourite thing is to have someone that has a 280aH 12.8 battery that has a cell that is 0.5V off and calculate how long it takes to balance AT 35mA... Both with the 0.5V being higher than the other 3 ... and when it is lower than the other 3 ... the number is ridiculous ...
 
I think im going to buy this one, will get yhe one that says. 250A, com, UART, 485, CAN
Im asuming it has all possibilities (dont think ill ever use or need them) but for just a few dollars more who cares!

Ill also get the Bluetooth, the NTC and the Key light board (anyone know what this is?) LOL.
 
So what can be done with the data interface.
Since the configuration is burned into the prom during manufacture, I'm guessing just logging and no queries.
 
So what can be done with the data interface.
Since the configuration is burned into the prom during manufacture, I'm guessing just logging and no queries.
I *THINK* the PC SW they provide allows you to change some (most? All?) of the settings.
 
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