New GYLL Batteries 24V Version C Communicating with Growatts!

Jerrys13

Solar Enthusiast
Well I spoke too soon.
The manual is available on their website. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0559/2147/5789/files/eg4batterymanual24v.pdf?v=1629908914

HOWEVER.... There was a very poor job of putting it together. Page 3 of the manual supposed to cover the Control Panel on page 3 Figure 3.2.
Yeah... It doesn't provide a figure to cross-reference the Table of 3.3 identifying the controls! Furthermore Table 3.3 includes characteristics that ARE NOT PRESENT on the 24 V battery such as item 7 Breaker.... There is no breaker on my 24V battery! Also Figure 3.2 is titled "EG4 48U Series" which lead me to believe that this was cut and paste from the 48V Battery Module.

Whoever the Cut and Paste Warrior's were that put this together should be Fired! I may note that this type of error is very consistent with their Ebay photo postings of protos of 48V batteries under 24V headings. Really... how hard is it to take a picture of what you are advertising and post it in accurate detail? This also applies to specs cut sheets that improperly display the correct battery model.

Given their presentation of their Business Model on Youtube: (
) I would think that they really would focus on ISO9000 type standards (Do what you say Say what you do) in terms of the marketed product rather than coming across as a bunch of kids who are in over their head.

This CLEARLY FAILS #2 of the1962 Kennedy Consumer Bill of Rights "The right to safety; the right to be informed; the right to choose and the right to be heard"e

Kudos to Will for upholding these values for us the consumer.
 

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Jerrys13

Solar Enthusiast
This should probably be under the Signature Solar thread but history has proven that it is cheaper for a business to implement good Quality Control than it is for a business to deal with Damage Control, If you question that you only need to look at GM currently dealing with the 70,000 + Chevy Bolts on recall $1 BILLION + and counting for damage control. Could have been avoided if GM Q.C'd LG's product. Just saying....
 
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Jerrys13

Solar Enthusiast
Just saw this post after posting a similiar question and or concern. No corre t user manual for the 24v 200Ah EG4-LL. Listening to you guys connecting the new EG4's to growatt inverters it sounds like a communication issue and what I'm guessing is the correct dip switch settings. As in the manual for the 24v 200ah it refers back to 48v dip switch settings?

The manual at this point is a gumbaled mess of sloppy cut and paste jobs from the 48V manual with some detail which is 24V specific, As the manual is now (today) I wouldn't trust it without reverse engineering he battery pack. Unfortunatly trial and error could potentially damage the battery. I would like to know if I need the $29.00 Hub Port for running 2 3000's in split phase.
 

Wogen06

New Member
Hi Jerry, thanks for the response and what appears to be exactly correct with cut and paste as you mentioned. I'm running both my 3000's in split phase without any issues, no hub port. If you haven't already be sure to watch a couple of the videos out there on YouTube with other users running 2 - 3000's inverters in splot phase. I can't remember exactly but off hand one of the settings needs to be set as SP0 for your first inverter and the other as SP1....
 

NewGuyNoob

New Member
Quick question related to the gyll batteries.

I have 5 x 48v 100amphr and noticed when I’m BMS mode on the growatt 12k, that I can not charge the batteries greater than 100amps in total. Each battery is receiving only 20amps in total. If I select (use) on the battery configuration I can charge at 119.8amps (max).

I think this is the limit for the charger?? But it will not max out if communicating with the bms on the batteries. That’s the difference between 5.5kw and 6.5kw for my solar production.

Can anyone think of a workaround? Or am I doing something wrong?
 

Jerrys13

Solar Enthusiast
Hi Jerry, thanks for the response and what appears to be exactly correct with cut and paste as you mentioned. I'm running both my 3000's in split phase without any issues, no hub port. If you haven't already be sure to watch a couple of the videos out there on YouTube with other users running 2 - 3000's inverters in splot phase. I can't remember exactly but off hand one of the settings needs to be set as SP0 for your first inverter and the other as SP1....
Thanks Wogen.. I was going to wait but it looks as though a bench test will be required this weekend. I will post my findings after watching a few videos as you recommended.
 

Joe BoyKey

Watts, Watts, more Watts
Quick question related to the gyll batteries.

I have 5 x 48v 100amphr and noticed when I’m BMS mode on the growatt 12k, that I can not charge the batteries greater than 100amps in total. Each battery is receiving only 20amps in total. If I select (use) on the battery configuration I can charge at 119.8amps (max).

I think this is the limit for the charger?? But it will not max out if communicating with the bms on the batteries. That’s the difference between 5.5kw and 6.5kw for my solar production.

Can anyone think of a workaround? Or am I doing something wrong?
Signature solar has a firmware upgrade for the 6k, you should ask james about the 12k - the growatt see's the battery voltage/soc and limits the charge amps as they get full, had to disconnect my eg4 for this reason, am now just running battery emulator on Solar assistant for soc and it works.
This is Home Assistant dashboard, see yellow highlighted Soc, it's spot on, Joe. James Showalter <james@signaturesolar.us>
1630846814519.png
 

NewGuyNoob

New Member
Signature solar has a firmware upgrade for the 6k, you should ask james about the 12k - the growatt see's the battery voltage/soc and limits the charge amps as they get full, had to disconnect my eg4 for this reason, am now just running battery emulator on Solar assistant for soc and it works.
This is Home Assistant dashboard, see yellow highlighted Soc, it's spot on, Joe. James Showalter <james@signaturesolar.us>
View attachment 63308
Thanks Joe.

I just updated my growatt 12K firmware, to the latest firmware - and I am unsure on what has changed, I used signature solar, as everything was put together in a single zip file. I have noticed the same behavior you have mentioned above, with SoC and changing charging rates. I wish a change list was provided for the firmware.

I wonder if I connect all batteries together, if the growatt can deduce that more that one cell is connected, then stop reducing charge current, the way it does now? I have only a few talking to each other across atm, do you now if it is straight cable or twisted pair patch cable to each battery BMS?.

Also, I saw some videos stating that the battery needs to be set to 0, for the growatt, maybe ill try that too.

I plan to swtich to Home assistant as you have indicated above as well too. Can we use a shunt with home assistant to provide a SoC?

GroWatt Inverters firmware update/upgrade video, software and firmware in the description on youtube:

 

Joe BoyKey

Watts, Watts, more Watts
Thanks Joe.

I just updated my growatt 12K firmware, to the latest firmware - and I am unsure on what has changed, I used signature solar, as everything was put together in a single zip file. I have noticed the same behavior you have mentioned above, with SoC and changing charging rates. I wish a change list was provided for the firmware.

I wonder if I connect all batteries together, if the growatt can deduce that more that one cell is connected, then stop reducing charge current, the way it does now? I have only a few talking to each other across atm, do you now if it is straight cable or twisted pair patch cable to each battery BMS?.

Also, I saw some videos stating that the battery needs to be set to 0, for the growatt, maybe ill try that too.

I plan to swtich to Home assistant as you have indicated above as well too. Can we use a shunt with home assistant to provide a SoC?

GroWatt Inverters firmware update/upgrade video, software and firmware in the description on youtube:

I don't think the Firmware that allows 100a charge is posted/released, he told me about it a month ago via phone, I just went back to daisy chain 3 gyll's and the EG4 batteries to rs485 and use Solar Assistant "battery emulator" as my soc, it's always within a few percent. Not going to let BMS shut down my solar power while running the room and charging batteries, Joe.
 

mwk1000

New Member
I have a 24v 200aH LifePower version of the battery with a growatt 3000 after much trial and error I ran across a Video saying that the 5000 MUST be at 0000 so I tried that for my 3000 and sure enough it worked. ( from BMS port to left port on battery == left to left) While other inverters from growatt needed to be set at 1 Grrrr. My guess is that if it has "BMS" labeled on the inverter try 0000 if it has "can" try 001 since the documentation for the products gives NO CLUE. I also got the BMS Monitoring software ( the 1.6a did NOT work simply would not locate the port ) the Test version that strips out the auto port verification ) did work... BUT you have to shut is down and reset to ??? Unclear I set the LEFT most dip switch up wich is the opposite of the doc then restart ... so you are forced to power cycle the battery twice to use the monitor then back to inverter ...

So all in all pretty sloppy doc and software but once sorted it is working as advertised
 

Joe BoyKey

Watts, Watts, more Watts
I have a 24v 200aH LifePower version of the battery with a growatt 3000 after much trial and error I ran across a Video saying that the 5000 MUST be at 0000 so I tried that for my 3000 and sure enough it worked. ( from BMS port to left port on battery == left to left) While other inverters from growatt needed to be set at 1 Grrrr. My guess is that if it has "BMS" labeled on the inverter try 0000 if it has "can" try 001 since the documentation for the products gives NO CLUE. I also got the BMS Monitoring software ( the 1.6a did NOT work simply would not locate the port ) the Test version that strips out the auto port verification ) did work... BUT you have to shut is down and reset to ??? Unclear I set the LEFT most dip switch up wich is the opposite of the doc then restart ... so you are forced to power cycle the battery twice to use the monitor then back to inverter ...

So all in all pretty sloppy doc and software but once sorted it is working as advertised
Keep us posted on what happens to Solar production when you battery gets near full, battery shut my solar production down, even while powering the Garage, had to unhook it, Joe.
 

mwk1000

New Member
My testing did not have this problem the battery was full two panels were delivering 640 watts I started the 580 watt heater with no cut off it was switching between PV-> load only and occasionally PV -> load+battery with the extra
 

Glucola

New Member
Hello, I'm in Texas & installer states ,the signature/.gyll batteries do not have UL certification & as such Center point will not allow installation to proceed.
Are most people using these batteries off-grid ? or bypassing utility companies?
 

Jerrys13

Solar Enthusiast
Hello, I'm in Texas & installer states ,the signature/.gyll batteries do not have UL certification & as such Center point will not allow installation to proceed.
Are most people using these batteries off-grid ? or bypassing utility companies?
Due to the UL requirement, yes... You are correct, most people are using them as off gird installations. Texas off grid guy on YouTube did his own installation at his house.
 
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