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New help with a Moes auto transfer switch..

waywaynorcal

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far north ca
I ordered a MOES Dual Power Controller 50A 5500 Watt Automatic Transfer Switch for Off Grid Solar Wind System ATS DC 12V 24V 48V AC 110V 220V
I am confused as to the wiring. I looked at the "public power" wires to the transfer switch but I am not sure what to connect that to? Does it get connected to a regular wall outlet? or??? Not completely sure how to tie that into my solar system/house power. Any help would be much appreciated
 
Based on this diagram:

1605197218204.png

-'Public Power' would wire to the source power from the power company (maybe you have a designated breaker allocated for providing this power from your main breaker panel).

-'Output' would go to your 'critical loads' auxiliary breaker panel (which feeds all your critical loads household circuits).

-'Inverter' would connect to your inverter AC output terminals.

-Battery would go to your inverter's power source battery bank to provide the sense voltage, to trigger the ATS switchover logic.

L is the 'hot' or black wire (in USA anyways).
N is the return or white wire (in USA anyways).

Make sure your critical loads panel loads don't exceed the amps/watts capacity of this ATS.

It looks like, based on the specs below that the 5500w unit doesn't support 240v so you can only tie into one leg of your main breaker panel to get 120v (one hot, and neutral). The 11000w unit looks like it supports 240v, so it could tie into both legs of the main breaker panel (two hots, no neutral).

You would need to wire public power to a breaker in order to allow it to pull the 50a rating, an outlet can only support usually 15a unless it is a 20a outlet, it would only allow 20a max, you need 50a connection to support full rating of this ATS.

If you haven't seen all the specs, I found them here in the different pictures posted for the unit:

1605197640946.png
 
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so "public power" is just any 110 AC grid outlet? Looks like

If you did that, you could only pull the amps that the plug's circuit was rated at, not the full 50a that the ATS is rated for, but yes, for a lab test, or if you're only using this for some minor loads (15a or less) then that could work as a 'public power' source. The narrower slot, right prong in a US outlet should be 'hot', and the wider slot, left prong should be 'neutral'... (if the outlet was wired correctly).
 
My goal is to power my pump (1/2HP) and my salt water reef tank which the power is minimal and a couple led lights should the power go out.
How would I connect to get the FULL 50a? Connect directly to the house (public power) panel? This is all new to me. I appreciate the help!
 
My goal is to power my pump (1/2HP) and my salt water reef tank which the power is minimal and a couple led lights should the power go out.
How would I connect to get the FULL 50a? Connect directly to the house (public power) panel? This is all new to me. I appreciate the help!

Yeah, basically you would add in a single-pole (120v) breaker with 50a rating if 6 awg wire, or 60a breaker if 4 awg wire, maybe put a conduit from the main power breaker box to a service disconnect box (like you would see installed near an outdoor AC unit or something: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-30-Amp-120-240-Volt-240-Watt-Fused-AC-Disconnect-TF30RCP/100576894 ), and wire a whip ( https://iispaces.com/what-is-a-power-whip/ ), from the service disconnect box to the ATS.

I don't know how the whip would attach to the ATS (as I can't see the bottom of it in the pics). Maybe would be better to get a larger universal electrical box and mount the ATS inside that, and have the conduit from main panel go into that auxiliary box.

Check all your local electrical codes too. I'm just guessing on the above as far as codes go. Main thing is sizing the breaker properly for the gauge of cable, and keeping it in conduit or covered inside a wall...
 
Here is what I have easily accessible as far as "public power". I would like to use the 220 dryer wire (8 gauge pictured below) since it is near my solar panel setup.
I am moving the dryer to another location and this 220 line will not be used. It is on a 30amp breaker in the house panel pictured below. I would like to wire in that 220 directly into the public power port on the transfer switch. Then off the transfer switch I would like to run a small pump and a few other lights all on the same circuit. So when the power goes out the solar will take over only my water pump, two LED lights and my small nano reef tank. The other questions is how do I run just those items off the solar inverter and the public power at the same time? I hope this makes sense?
It looks like I have to put those three items I want to switch to solar on the same circuit. Run 12/2 romex to an outlet for each of these items? Then plug that 12/2 into the outlet port on the transfer switch and run a line from the inverter port on the trans switch to the inverter?
 

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Here is what I have easily accessible as far as "public power". I would like to use the 220 dryer wire (8 gauge pictured below) since it is near my solar panel setup.
I am moving the dryer to another location and this 220 line will not be used. It is on a 30amp breaker in the house panel pictured below. I would like to wire in that 220 directly into the public power port on the transfer switch. Then off the transfer switch I would like to run a small pump and a few other lights all on the same circuit. So when the power goes out the solar will take over only my water pump, two LED lights and my small nano reef tank. The other questions is how do I run just those items off the solar inverter and the public power at the same time? I hope this makes sense?
It looks like I have to put those three items I want to switch to solar on the same circuit. Run 12/2 romex to an outlet for each of these items? Then plug that 12/2 into the outlet port on the transfer switch and run a line from the inverter port on the trans switch to the inverter?

So essentially you're saying to steal the dryer 30a breaker in the panel (in this case, one leg of it) for the public-power-in connection on the Auto Transfer Switch, then inverter AC power also goes into the ATS. So technically, the output of the ATS should wire to an auxiliary 'critical loads' breaker box, and then you can have a few breakers in there for those circuits, and run those outputs to wherever you like.
 
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YES! My idea is to connect to the OUTPUT of the ATS a circuit dedicated to only the appliances I want to switch over to solar should the power go out. My solar setup will not handle much more than what I mentioned above. So is my objective then running 12/2 romex from the output ATS to 110 outlets for the reef tank, lights and then continue out to the pump? All 110 outlets, three separate outlets on that entire circuit. And what kind of breaker box would be the recommended for this?
This is starting to make sense to me! Thank you for the help!
 
Sure no prob at all my friend... Knowledge all comes in time, once you wrap your head around it...

Several companies offer various sizes of boxes, like if it's just 1 or 2 circuits then you can get a small box that only holds a couple breakers.

Here's just a quick search I did for example on Home Depot website for a 2-slot panel:
 
Huge help!
Those Home Depot boxes give me a good idea of what I need. Thanks for that link. I live 2 hours from a Home Depot or Lowes. But some of the stores here to a good job of stocking similar stuff. Just not as cheap.
 
I don't do electrical wiring too often so I am asking for some help with wring this sub panel with a 20 amp breaker.
I am wiring 8 gauge (or 10) 3 wires to the panel from a 30amp breaker in the main panel. It is the 220 line to the dryer. I am moving the dryer and the line is available. Can someone help me with the wiring? Where does the hot, neutral and ground go? I believe on the 220 line BOTH red and black are hot and no neutral? I cant remember. Any help would be great! Thanks
 

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Well, in this case, you were stealing the old 240v dryer breaker, to repurpose for a 120v circuit, correct? (that's what we had been discussing before). If that is still the case, you only will need 1 of the hot leads off of the old dryer breaker (either one of them). Preferably, you would remove the connecting bar which joins the 2 poles on the old dryer breaker (so they don't latch together as a 240v breaker anymore), or replace the breaker with 2 single pole 120v breakers there. But not a big deal if you don't. Basically, you would just use one hot (red or black), and one neutral (white) from the neutral bus, and the ground (bare conductor).

And I thought you were going to have that go over to your 120v Auto-Transfer Switch, then have the common 120v output from that go over to the single-pole 120v breaker in your auxiliary panel?

Or is this a different circuit, where you're trying to just run a 2 breakers in series? I got lost there a little bit, when before we were talking about wiring in the ATS, but now you're indicating like you're wanting to hook up the dryer 240v 2-pole breaker in series to an aux panel which has only a 120v 1-pole breaker in it (definitely can't wire a 240v into a single pole 120v aux panel breaker).
 
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yes, running from the ATS to 3 110 outlets. Running into the ATS one 220.
I was running from the main house panel to the new 2 pole breaker box to the ATS then from the ATS out to the new 110 circuit and the inveter.
I just want to use the dryer 30 amp 220 line to feed into first the breaker box then on to the ATS as the "public power" nothing more.
Perhaps I have the wrong break box?
There is one open slot on the house panel. I could put a 20 amp breaker in that and run that to the new sub 2 pole breaker box?
 
Does your ATS explicitly support 240v? What output voltage is your inverter? When I looked at the screenshots above for public power input on the ATS, it shows L and N, indicating 120v (one hot, one neutral)... Check your diagrams and read the ATS manual on that. I would be more convinced it supported 240v if it said L N L or something...

If it does actually say in your diagrams it came with that 240v is supported, and your inverter is also bringing over 240v to the ATS on it's input, then no, don't put the aux panel before the ATS. And in that case, you would also need an auxiliary breaker panel that supports 2-pole 240v as well, where you would install 2x single pole 120v breakers into it to run your loads off of.

It should go:
Dryer breaker > ATS > Aux panel
Inverter > ATS > Aux panel


So all your loads coming off the inverter power will be protected too. Don't run inverter loads directly to the device loads.
 
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Yeah, I just checked the specs.. If yours is the 5500w model then it is only 120v

1605809548448.png

The 11000w model supports 240v... So what voltage does your inverter put out? If it's 120v, then we stick with 120v line on the ATS, but if your inverter outputs 240v split-phase, then you'd have to step up to the 11000 ATS to tie into 240v architecture on the solution.
 
Or maybe I'm not understanding the spec here in their Main Features list. Are they saying there are 2 models, a 5500w and a 11000w model, or are they saying depending on how you run this ATS model, in which configuration you set it up as (120v or 240v)...

Maybe I'll have to download the actual manual they refer to there...
 
Reading the doc, and trying to understand, they show 2 here: like supports both 120v in a 5500w configuration, or 240v in a 11000w configuration:

However top picture shows L N while bottom picture shows L L for public power in. This might make it seem to me like they are 2 different unit model numbers (unless they ship this unit with 2 stickers)..


1605810106331.png

Anyways, check your inverter output voltage and report back on that, this will help us decide which voltage you need to use for sure to make this work right.
 
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