New help with a Moes auto transfer switch..

Samsonite801

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Yeah I was misunderstanding, it seems this may likely be a single model (also check the model number on your ATS, make sure yours is an ATS-11KW) that would support 120v or 240v. If your inverter is 120v then we should only use 120v as the public power input to the ATS though. If the inverter is 240v output, then find out if it supports 240v split-phase (allowing for 120v + neutral 120v on each leg). What model inverter is it?


1605810985058.png
 
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waywaynorcal

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hi mine is the 11000w model shown in the photo below. Also pictured is my setup. This is a huge help! I can't get an electrician to come out and take a looksee and help. Our numbers here for Covid have gone up and people are picking and choosing jobs.
frustrating. I am having to research online.
 

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Samsonite801

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hi mine is the 11000w model shown in the photo below. Also pictured is my setup. This is a huge help! I can't get an electrician to come out and take a looksee and help. Our numbers here for Covid have gone up and people are picking and choosing jobs.
frustrating. I am having to research online.

Yeah, so since your inverter IS only a 120v output inverter, it is only capable of providing 1 leg style 120v power, so we need to treat this entire ATS circuit as a 120v circuit, so for the Public Power input, we will want to bring in only 1 leg 120v off of the one side of the dryer breaker..

So one 30a leg from the dryer breaker, and a neutral off the neutral bar in the main panel, going to the ATS per diagram:
1605812950903.png

(ground the main breaker panel ground bus, to the inverter chassis, and the ATS chassis, and the aux breaker box chassis for safety)

Then wire the common output of the ATS over to an aux panel which is made for 120v (single breaker rail bus for all breakers), so the one and only leg distributes to your 2 single pole breakers. Size all the wire's gauge properly between 30a breaker > ATS > aux breaker panel for 30a load, and size the gauge wires coming off the aux panel 120v breakers for the size of those breakers (most likely you will use 15a breakers for those (15a @ 120v = 1800w or 20a @ 120v = 2400w). You could do one 20a breaker or two 15a breakers, as your inverter is rated at 2000w continuous and 4000w surge.
 
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waywaynorcal

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the inverter I have is the PS1003 2000w 4000w surge. Info in the pic below.
 

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waywaynorcal

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Is that breaker box a single leg box?
I will take one leg off the dryer and disconnect the other leg at the house panel 30amp breaker. The wire size is 10 / 3. Run the leg to the ATS then from the ATS to the inverter I will run 12 /2. And from the outlet on the ATS to the appliances I will run 12/2 to 3 separate recepticals.
I'll run the 20 amp in the the 2 slot mini panel and put that on the outlet line from the ATS in-between the ATS and the 3 recepticals.
I am a little confused about the grounds. In the mini panel I am not sure where to run the ground as well as the other grounds.
On the right in the photo is the current setup with the ATS not wired. I plan on putting the mini breaker box on the left on the wall.
 

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Samsonite801

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Is that breaker box a single leg box?
I will take one leg off the dryer and disconnect the other leg at the house panel 30amp breaker. The wire size is 10 / 3. Run the leg to the ATS then from the ATS to the inverter I will run 12 /2. And from the outlet on the ATS to the appliances I will run 12/2 to 3 separate recepticals.
I'll run the 20 amp in the the 2 slot mini panel and put that on the outlet line from the ATS in-between the ATS and the 3 recepticals.
I am a little confused about the grounds. In the mini panel I am not sure where to run the ground as well as the other grounds.
On the right in the photo is the current setup with the ATS not wired. I plan on putting the mini breaker box on the left on the wall.

On the first picture you posted, it looks like it might be a two-leg, 240v box (judging from the 2 big fat wire terminal lugs on right and left of breaker area), can you pull out the breaker itself and take another pic like that so I can see the breaker bus bar or bars behind it? If that's the case (that it's a 240v panel), then the left breaker is one leg and the right breaker is the other leg. If you only use one breaker, you would have to screw your hot into the lead connected to that breaker bus, for that breaker. Power gets fed via those breaker bus bar leads, and goes to the load via the terminal on the end of the breaker.

On your next topic, is this auxiliary breaker panel being installed near the main panel or is installed at the other end where the dryer plug was? I can answer the rest of your questions once I know that...
 

waywaynorcal

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hi, the auxiliary panel I planned on installing right next to my solar setup roughly 2 feet from the ATS and the rest of the setup.
Here are a few photos of the box...
 

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Samsonite801

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hi, the auxiliary panel I planned on installing right next to my solar setup roughly 2 feet from the ATS and the rest of the setup.
Here are a few photos of the box...

Yeah, that panel is a 240v/120v panel, left breaker is one leg, right breaker is other leg. If you ever want to use both breakers in there off your single leg, you'd have to jump the 2 bus bars together so both breakers would get powered on your single leg...

What my other question had been, is... The dryer plug, is that over by your solar setup? Is that how you were planning to get the power from the main panel, down to the solar equipment room?
 

waywaynorcal

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Yeah, that panel is a 240v/120v panel, left breaker is one leg, right breaker is other leg. If you ever want to use both breakers in there off your single leg, you'd have to jump the 2 bus bars together so both breakers would get powered on your single leg...

What my other question had been, is... The dryer plug, is that over by your solar setup? Is that how you were planning to get the power from the main panel, down to the solar equipment room?
yes right next to the solar setup. yes exactly how I was going to rig it. This was because the dry line is so close to the solar setup and the dry is being moved out to a garage.
 

waywaynorcal

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So in the photo below I believe the areas I have text are correct. My question now are the grounds
 

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Samsonite801

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So in the photo below I believe the areas I have text are correct. My question now are the grounds

Ok, so your cord that runs in the wall for your dryer plug, how many wires does it have? 3-wire, or 4-wire? In either case, you only need 3.

If it's a 3-wire, use the 2 insulated ones, 1 for hot, other for neutral, and bare wire use for grounding. Usually we want to try an observe colors, but on 3-wire, you may have red, black, and bare, or you might have white, black, and bare. If it's a 4-wire, you would have red, black, white, and bare.

The general rule of thumb is, use black as a hot, white as a neutral, red as a second hot (when using 240v), and bare is always ground.

But suppose you have in your cable to your dryer plug, a black, and a white, and a bare for ground, well then perfect, our colors will all match. But if it is black and red and bare for ground, then I would use the black as hot (as normally would), but for the red wire, I would get some white electrical tape and wrap a bit of the wire insulation on each end to label it as a 'white' wire for future electrician who may go in there.

If your cord already has a black and a white in there (or whichever insulated pair you have), then in the main breaker box, wire the black wire to the one leg of the 30a dryer breaker, and use the white wire (or whichever other wire you designated as 'white'), connect that to the neutral bus in the main panel (where you see all the other white wires bridged in there), and the bare ground wire should already be grounded on the ground bus in that panel (where you see all the other bare wires bridged in there).

Then on the other end of the cable in the solar equipment room, I am not sure how you're planning to bridge it, I would prefer not to use the dryer plug cord to adapt it (as it may confuse future electrician, because the NEMA plug type is designed as a 240v dryer plug. I'm not going to tell you not to do it that way if you want.

Hardwired conduit type connection is better for everything, and it also makes any future inspectors not think to check things too closely if it all looks professional, if you had a box to put the the ATS inside of, then you could fashion a cover plate for the dryer plug panel (take out the dryer receptacle and use wire-nuts extend cable beyond), with a hole in the front of the cover plate (with a 90 degree bend adapter on it) and run flexible conduit or something, going over to the ATS box, but that's all up to you. I know some people who would just say screw it, use a dryer cord whip and call it a day. (ok, I gave my disclaimer)...

As far as the wiring goes, you just want to hook your grounding bare wire from main panel, and bridge it on the other end, to connect to any box/panel/device that has a ground lug, or a metal chassis. Electrical boxes usually always have grounding screws somewhere in them (green color screw usually). Basically, anything with a metal chassis should be grounded back to your main panel ground, which then connects outside to the copper grounding rod going down into the Earth. Don't ground anything on the neutral bus, they are both essentially grounds, but inside your house, the ground path must be different than your neutral return path.

So to sum it up, if you have a 3-wire on your dryer cable, you'll use all 3, except instead of 2 hots, you'll have 1 hot, 1 neutral, one ground. If you have 4-wire on your dryer cable, then one wire (the red one) will be un-used.
 
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8_Hz_WAN_IP

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I ordered a MOES Dual Power Controller 50A 5500 Watt Automatic Transfer Switch for Off Grid Solar Wind System ATS DC 12V 24V 48V AC 110V 220V
I am confused as to the wiring. I looked at the "public power" wires to the transfer switch but I am not sure what to connect that to? Does it get connected to a regular wall outlet? or??? Not completely sure how to tie that into my solar system/house power. Any help would be much appreciated
Hey, I have one of these currently installed! They’re great!
 

8_Hz_WAN_IP

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It's tucked away and I'm too lazy to pull it out, but what questions do you have still?

The biggest thing is that it operates at 120v AC and it just switches back and forth between grid power and inverter (supplied by the battery) power, byt it does this automatically depending in the voltage you set.

Thats why I got it! I didn't want to have to manually connect/disconnect from the grid to the inverter, and back after the batteries drained.

The battery sensing wires are what powers the ATS, so you can plug those in first to play with it before connecting the AC sources.

L= black live wire
N= white neutral wire

Load is where the AC current goes no matter which source is supplying the power, so in my case thats where our tiny house 30A RV connection plugs in;because our whole house is one load.

Any questions you have, feel free to ask!
 

waywaynorcal

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Thank you! Just curious how you set it up. Samsonite801 was a a huge help getting me familiar with my setup. My biggest obstacle was the house wiring and making it work where my solar set is. I didnt want to start running wires from hell to breakfast. I conveniently had a 220 dryer line right next to my setup and was unsure if it would work with the ATS. When I get mine up I'll post up a few photos. Ive had some people contact me about mine and if it works and how it works.
 

waywaynorcal

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The battery sensing wires are what powers the ATS, so you can plug those in first to play with it before connecting the AC sources.



Any questions you have, feel free to ask!
I do have a question regarding the ATS and the battery sensing wires. The ATS has a port for the battery sensing wire and I saw on a video a guy plugging that in. I plugged it in to the charge controller. My charge controller ports are all used by the MT50. What do you suggest regarding connect the ATS to monitor the battery?
 

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8_Hz_WAN_IP

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I do have a question regarding the ATS and the battery sensing wires. The ATS has a port for the battery sensing wire and I saw on a video a guy plugging that in. I plugged it in to the charge controller. My charge controller ports are all used by the MT50. What do you suggest regarding connect the ATS to monitor the battery?
I connected the battery sensing wires (any small wires will do) directly to the positive and negative posts on the battery itself. The ATS will sense the battery voltage more accurately the closer it is connected to the battery terminals. However, you should know you can make minor corrections/adjustments to the voltage sensed by the ATS by fiddling with the buttons on the front of the ATS. If you have more questions, feel free to ask.
 

waywaynorcal

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Thank you everyone for helping me out with this! Got everything wired up. I decided to forgo the 240 line and run a 120 12/2 romex from the ATS to the breaker box and then out to the circuit. I have a circuit in my house panel open 20amp that I wired to the ATS. I have been running it for 3 days. It is very rainy here and almost no sun. The ATS is switching over to grid like it should but I have run into a problem .. On the MT 50 I have the frown face 🙁 and the red light is on the charge controller. The green light is blinking on the controller but the red light is on as well. SO what is going on here? I am still trying to figure all this out.
 

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JoeHam

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It looks like a X is also on the battery icon.

At 11.5 v is that a low battery voltage sad face ?

If it goes away when you get the battery charged up then my guess is correct.

If not I’m happy to keep guessing 😎.
 

waywaynorcal

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I hope so! The instructions with my EPEVER don't say anything specific about it nor does the MT50. I have read other peoples complaints about the instructions with these components. I am sure it says something in depth but I am too stupid to understand it. Ironically right when this happened the sun disappeared and hasn't been seen since. I did manage to get my other two panels hooked up yesterday in the rain. Now I am running 1400 watts into the system so hopefully I can wrangle a little power today and see what happens. The other issue I am dealing with is the setting the ATS correctly to the cut off on the inverter.
 
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