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New help with a Moes auto transfer switch..

Thank you. Statement is very correct.

Your option might be very good as well. But in my case i already have 2nd and 3rd inverters (smaller low load). i have everything already almost working. I only need at this moment adjustable voltage switch, for on/off variables. With my preferred custom cut off and my custom turn off. All cables also are ready and in the places. In your case i will need extra long cables for relay, as in my case these AC cables are the only one i have here going to garage. There are no other AC cables there.
What inverter do you have for the garage? Can you set the low-voltage disconnect?

Also, how long is the run from the battery to the garage inverter?
 
For the garage i have very basic inverter, that does not have smart features. It's quite old, modified wave 5000W peak, 2500W inverter. It's have auto off when battery low, but that's fixed, i cannon change it, and it does not fit for me, as it will turn off when battery will be almost empty.

From home to garage i have about 30 meters. straight and about 50 meters when going cable nice near corners.
 
From home to garage i have about 30 meters. straight and about 50 meters when going cable nice near corners.
That is a Long way to be running DC. Have you calculated the size of wire needed to run the inverter without large voltage drops?
 
That is a Long way to be running DC. Have you calculated the size of wire needed to run the inverter without large voltage drops?
I guess that is why current shunts aren't 80 feet long eh? Door, me....now.
 
That is a Long way to be running DC. Have you calculated the size of wire needed to run the inverter without large voltage drops?

I will convert DC to AC near the battery, i only run AC to the garage :)

But the question was switch or relay :D
any suggestions for that part?
 
if you had a signal to drive a relay when the batteries are full, you could throw a relay to turn on the heater that is powered by the main AC. Many devices have a programable relay that could accomplish this goal
The ‘load’ contacts or gen-start contacts on Epever Charge Controllers can be set to output and configure what they wanted to do reliably using an appropriate NO / NC relay. Or there are $15 setable charging controller boards on the amazonian dispensary.
I haven’t installed yet but I’m going to do similar (with a single inverter) with a 300/800W fan heater. I’m just providing information, not disagreeing, and you probably have imagined that already. At least with Epever you can customize disconnect/reconnect voltages and thereby only skim the cream.
 
I need help with the

MOES Dual Power Controller 50A 5500 Watt Automatic Transfer Switch for Off Grid Solar. When I install the invertor input to the invertor nothing happens. I can test the N-P reads 121 volts, but the output is 0. Why is that. It doesn't work only from the grid conection?​

 
When I install the invertor input to the invertor nothing happens. I can test the N-P reads 121 volts, but the output is 0. Why is that. It doesn't work only from the grid conection?
I can’t understand what you are describing here.
 
I can’t understand what you are describing here.
I can’t understand what you are describing here.
Well I purchased a new unit from amazon. Hooked it up and everything worked just fine. I then tried to test the amperage and zap. I fried it. Another one down the drain. That was the problem I assume. I'll have to purchase another one from amazon.....ychhh...my fault. That's how we learn.
 
I need help with the

MOES Dual Power Controller 50A 5500 Watt Automatic Transfer Switch for Off Grid Solar. When I install the invertor input to the invertor nothing happens. I can test the N-P reads 121 volts, but the output is 0. Why is that. It doesn't work only from the grid conection?​

Unless Moes has improved the last few years, I'd return it and use something else. Many reports of feeding power from 2 sources and the inverters were fried. Maybe these are improved, but I wouldn't take the chance myself.
 
I have heard many bad things about the Moes ATS and it makes me wonder why Will brags about it so much in his video. I bought it just because of Wills endorsement but now I wonder if his endorsements mean anything at all. smh at Will Prose over this purchase.
Early models were known to feed from 2 sources when switching. If there is a battle between grid and your inverter, the grid will win.

The inverter would have to be in phase with the grid in order to not get fried.

I do not know if this problem has been fixed. I did look at recent reviews on Amazon for various Moes models and one was from late 2023 and it fried the inverter.
 
I have heard many bad things about the Moes ATS and it makes me wonder why Will brags about it so much in his video. I bought it just because of Wills endorsement but now I wonder if his endorsements mean anything at all. smh at Will Prose over this purchase.
I bought one after seeing Will's video. (2020)
I built a backup system (1200w panels, 24v system) and it was the answer to using some power while reserving some for outages.
I'm now up to 3000w solar with 20,000 kWh battery bank and during all this time I've had no problem with the Moes.

I'd imagine if they're as bad as some say there would be a hell of a lot more catastrophic reviews
I do take the warnings seriously and the next upgrade I'm looking at is probably going to 48v and a 5k SolArk and say fare thee well to the Moes.
 
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Is it possible to get the inverter in phase with the grid power? The model I have switches from grid power to inverter power when the batteries are full and from inverter power to grid power when the batteries are discharged at a pre-programmed rate.
Why do you need the Moes if the inverter has a transfer switch? On my system I use a manual double throw to isolate the inverters and their wiring from grid power for maintenance or if the inverters shutdown and a need to quick switch to grid power is needed. An example would be inverter shutdown and my wife is at home and needs to switch to grid. Some Moes models do allow remote switching using an app and a network connection, but given the reports of problems, if you are remote you might come home and find your house burned down. I think there probably are better choices that won't burn your house down when switching remote but will cost more.

The inverters that will sync to grid phase will constantly draw some power in order to allow a UPS type switch to grid. This is how the transfer time is in milliseconds and you don't have to reset clocks or have a UPS on electronics (which I do anyway combined with surge protection).

The Moes may do this or it may not. It appears given reports in the past, it doesn't always sync to grid or remains energized when in sync and feeds power to grid or grid power to the inverter which might be out of phase. If there was a longer switch time like a manual double throw has, then it doesn't matter when it comes to phasing but clocks for example, would require resetting and a UPS needed for electronics.
 
have a 1200 watt 24v off-grid
went with 12 gauge since nobody seems to know. It's a very simple question and for the life of me I can't understand why it's not in the instructions. I know the answer isn't wire that can support 50 amps, that would be ridiculous
I haven’t figured out what you are talking about. Unless you mean because you only have 1200W inverter ?
But what happens if you upgrade anything? The moes you have is rated to 5500W. That switches 45.8A at 120VAC. 12ga wire is 20A at 120VAC. 2500W overloads it.
It's a very simple question and for the life of me I can't understand why it's not in the instructions
Because amps/watts is not device specific, it is specific to the wire used, and you use the appropriate wire for the device as the device’s rating is static and knows nothing of the wire that feeds it.

This is why you do not ‘upgrade’ older homes that used to be 60A fuseboxes in the fifties to- eventually- 100A breaker panels, to the now ‘standard’ 200A entrance panels and add heat pumps, toe-kick heaters, point-of-use instant hot water heaters, etc without upgrading the Holy Powerco Pole to entrance cable- it’s often not 200A aluminum.

So maybe as I said I’m just an idiot but I’m confused about what you are doing.
Why do you need the Moes if the inverter has a transfer switch
 
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I want one because Will Prowse said they were "awesome" and I used to respect what he said as gospel. Not so anymore with all the controversy over this Moes ATS. I mean, who do I believe, you or Will? I don't know anymore.
I've searched here before in the archives and looked at reviews online. Many say the Moes works fine, others suffered catastrophic inverter loss in the process or had notice from grid backfeed without an interconnection agreement from the utility.

His video was 5 years ago. If you scroll thru the comments, you find comments like this one.

"I purchased one. The ATS fed 240V mains directly into my Giant 3000W pure sine wave inverter, the first tell were the capacitors exploding. Want an inverter that sounds like a shoot out with .22LR rounds? Need the excitement of smoke, sparks and flames, then this little baby, made strictly to comply with the Chinese electrical standards 'U Like Explosions' (ULE), is the one for you."

Then we find posts like this one https://diysolarforum.com/threads/automatic-transfer-switches.35728/post-474296 where the person who did the review found the contacts can weld together. Scrolling thru that thread, you find members had multiple inverter failures. I'm certain more can be found.

Knowing this, would I use this device? No, I prefer to minimize potential failures as part of risk management. As more than one person/review indicates there might be a problem, I won't accept that risk. You might be willing to accept that risk if you also have other risk management factors involved. That is up to you to decide. It is possible there could be installer error or Moes changed the product since then.

I have no need for this device. I again have to ask why you think you need this device if your inverter has a built in transfer switch that accomplishes the same thing. What is the intended use?
 
couldn't figure out where Will put the wires from the little adapter thing
I think you shouldn’t be using this.

It is sortofa changeover switch with parameters.

Please post picture(s) of “little adapter thing.” In fact post pictures of whole thing because I’m not sure what you are talking about.
 
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