diy solar

diy solar

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@rayrokni Renogy's reputation is pretty much in the toilet.
In addition to Renogy's lousy support that dc2dc converter you are suggesting has caused folks a lot of grief.
yea since the post, i’ve come across negative reviews. i personally had to wait over ten days for them to give me a call back to buy equipment. now i’m glad they didn’t.
knowing what i mentioned before, do you have a unit that can do what i want.
 
yea since the post, i’ve come across negative reviews. i personally had to wait over ten days for them to give me a call back to buy equipment. now i’m glad they didn’t.
knowing what i mentioned before, do you have a unit that can do what i want.
I don't recommend anyone do a 3000 watt inverter at 12 volts.
If you wish I will read through the thread and come up with an alternative solution.
 
I don't recommend anyone do a 3000 watt inverter at 12 volts.
If you wish I will read through the thread and come up with an alternative solution.
ok. i’m me too this and always think to leave room for growth but i understand in this case that might not be a good idea.

i would be grateful for your recommendations. thank you
 
I don't recommend anyone do a 3000 watt inverter at 12 volts.
If you wish I will read through the thread and come up with an alternative solution.
ok. i’m me too this and always think to leave room for growth but i understand in this case that might not be a good idea.

i would be grateful for your recommendations thank you
 
Having re-read your requirements here is my suggestion.

Forget having 12VDC distribution and do it all at 120VAC

2x sok batteries for 5273.6 watt hours

One of these for dc2dc charge capability
Gives you the option for solar panels if you ever want to go that route.

One of these https://www.donrowe.com/samlex-evo-1212f-hw-pure-sine-inverter-charger-p/evo-1212f-hw.htm
Gives you an ac charger, low frequency inverter, automatic transfer switch and configurable low voltage disconnect so you don't ruin your batteries.
Plus a ton more features that are only practical with an integrated solution.


Then all you need is fuses and wires.

Have you considered going 24 volts?
They make a 24 volt version of that inverter/charger and there good 12->24 volt dc2dc chargers from sterling and Victron.
 
Having re-read your requirements here is my suggestion.

Forget having 12VDC distribution and do it all at 120VAC

2x sok batteries for 5273.6 watt hours

One of these for dc2dc charge capability
Gives you the option for solar panels if you ever want to go that route.

One of these https://www.donrowe.com/samlex-evo-1212f-hw-pure-sine-inverter-charger-p/evo-1212f-hw.htm
Gives you an ac charger, low frequency inverter, automatic transfer switch and configurable low voltage disconnect so you don't ruin your batteries.
Plus a ton more features that are only practical with an integrated solution.


Then all you need is fuses and wires.

Have you considered going 24 volts?
They make a 24 volt version of that inverter/charger and there good 12->24 volt dc2dc chargers from sterling and Victron.
thank you. im going through reading what you have sent me.
i suppose if i’m not going to use any 12v dc equipment i could go to a 24v setup and at a later date of i needed 12v dc i could install a step down, no?
 
thank you. im going through reading what you have sent me.
i suppose if i’m not going to use any 12v dc equipment i could go to a 24v setup and at a later date of i needed 12v dc i could install a step down, no?
That is correct.
You really should do an energy audit.
 
2 maxxair 7000 fans each draw 60w
2 led strip lights wattage?
usb bank to charge phone, various small power screw drivers
dc mini fridge wattage unknown yet
will have to use external generator to charge 100v 1800-3600wh electric unicycles at 6-12amps ac.
 
yes, thank you. i was also thinking of adding n on/off switch so i can turn it on after alternator has been running a few minutes.
You can force a start up on the DCC50 but shutdown depends on alternator voltage. To be honest I would not supply Renogy products for any systen I am installing.

renogy pure some inverter 3000w
the SOC 200 Ah battery has a 100 amp continuous discharge maximum current, taking efficiency and cable loss into account a single battery can only power a 1200 watt load, so a 1000 watt inverter the practical maximum for a single battery.

I suggest more research as to exactly what you need and how you are going to generate the power needed for your consumption.

Some reading on batteries and systems,

Mike
 
You can force a start up on the DCC50 but shutdown depends on alternator voltage. To be honest I would not supply Renogy products for any systen I am installing.


the SOC 200 Ah battery has a 100 amp continuous discharge maximum current, taking efficiency and cable loss into account a single battery can only power a 1200 watt load, so a 1000 watt inverter the practical maximum for a single battery.

I suggest more research as to exactly what you need and how you are going to generate the power needed for your consumption.

Some reading on batteries and systems,

Mike
thank you. unfortunately i have to do this over a period of time. final plan is to have 6 of the 200wh batteries and solar. so with that in mind i am planning other equipment in a way where i wouldn’t need to change them.
 
2 maxxair 7000 fans each draw 60w
2 led strip lights wattage?
usb bank to charge phone, various small power screw drivers
dc mini fridge wattage unknown yet
will have to use external generator to charge 100v 1800-3600wh electric unicycles at 6-12amps ac.
So if I’m reading this right… you DO have 12V plans.

BTW ‘led strip lights’ are generally lossy because they do voltage drop to run. The cheap ones waste a lot of heat imho. But you can probably absorb the ‘loss’ because the watts are small, they’re much better than incandescent, the percentage of loss is just a bigger number. But there’s 12V LED stuff that runs the diodes in series to achieve a “12V” light with minimal losses. FYI

FWIW there’s 120v minifridges with freezer compartments, not frost free, that run on 60-80W.
So my suggestion is about what I’m running: a 1200W true sine inverter. 12V. Runs a mini fridge 24/7 and I can use an electric coffeemaker, iron shirts, vacuum, and charge cordless tools, two phones, my work ipad, and a laptop. I primarily use 2-element LED lights that are 90? milliwatt consumers. I can’t remember. I just know the batteries don’t notice when I turn them on. Currently only running 400W of solar at 24V into 12V batteries.

Point is that you should not make it too difficult or focus on the ‘this is better’ mentality. Good equipment will do what you need and lifepo takes up little room. But good equipment costs more money. Running a $140 120V fridge instead of an $800 or $1200 DC fridge offsets a lot of the other costs quite a bit, and usb is onboard a lot of SCC (at the cheaper end) and inverters. 600W of solar, 1200W inverter, -400Ah batteries and maybe even charging the bikes would work if you charge daylight hours. That’s the once’n’done imho
 
thank you for all the info. the more i’m thinking, the more it seems that i should start with solar. i was planning to do the solar install at a later date, since i am away from home at the moment and when i get back i have to go back out within couple weeks again. so i was hoping to get the basic install done with the batteries, b2b charger and the inverter. and later when i have time to add the solar. i was looking at inverter/charger combos. the 120 mini fridge is definitely cheaper nut i would have to install the solar for that, since i will be stopped for few hours everyday. my problem is being new to this and so many different brands and equipment, it becomes a bit daunting.
my final plan oss to have 6x 200ah, 800w solar, 3000w inverter/charger. having all the charging options. dc to dc, shore and solar.

i need to charge electric unicycles 100.8v and ranching from 1800wh to 3600wh. charging at 6-12amps. i will have a generator also.
the van will be very minimalistic as far as living quarters, a blow up mattress and plastic totes will do at the moment.
i’m planning to ride across usa on electic unicycle and the van is a support vehicle to carry parts, extra unicycles and charging capability, in case i need to repair.
reason i wanted to be able to charge the unicycle via house batteries is just as a backup, in case generator fails. in certain parts of the country i will be in the boonies.
maybe it would be best to have two generators and just concentrate on enough house batteries too run normal stuff, lights, cooler, fans, phone, small power equipment. all this on 12v dc. a 2000 inverter for bigger ac120v equipment. soldering station would be the biggest draw in this case.
i have read and watched will’s videos and manuals. i am just confused as to what to order while i’m away from home at the moment, so when i get back all equipment will be there and i can start the install.

thank you for your time
 
i have decided to go with
battleborn 200ah GC2 kit
comes with:
2x100 gc2 heated batteries

SmartSolar MPPT 100/50 Charge Controller with Bluetooth

Orion-TR Smart 12/12V-30A Isolated Charger

Multiplus Compact 12/2000/80-50 120V VE.Bus

Victoron digital multi control

Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor with Bluetooth Built-in

i will also be getting for solar panels 680w. flexible panels.

main reason i’m going this route is because it’sa one stop shop with support, all equipment will be programmed before shipping, all wiring etc.

hopefully this is a a good choice?‍♂️?.
 
@rayrokni Renogy's reputation is pretty much in the toilet.
In addition to Renogy's lousy support that dc2dc converter you are suggesting has caused folks a lot of grief.
yea, i have researched and that’s the common feeling out there.
i have decided on victron equipment and battleborn battery GC2.
 
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